J.R.

It will happen to me one day if I do find how to overcome the feature, my Dad brought a brand new Polo, one of the very first in 1978 as I think his first ever new car when he retired hoping to get many trouble and rust free miles from it, the former it did, the latter was compromised by him doing what you did into his workbench in the garage because he let my stepmother use the car just that once only and she parked it in gear. Many times when I am working on the car, say after an oil change I want to run the engine & check for leaks but am wearing dirty clothes & dont want to get in, I just hate the feature.

Dont continue pushing hard against the gate, you are pushing the synchromesh cone hard against the rotating constant mesh gear which will wear it out in short order. You need to investigate the clutch drag, possibly a hydraulic problem although just as expensive labour wise as a clutch change if its the concentric slave cylinder leaking.

Never had to do it on previous cars and to date have never started a car in gear and lurched forward, came close a few times but my reactions are quick & I immediately stamp on the clutch without even needing to stop cranking. This "safety feature" on the Yeti is driving me mad and I have not become used to it as people said, its making me all the more frustrated, I am a wash n go type person and cant be doing with pre-flight checklists!! Can it be disabled using VCDS? Given that the vehicle knows when it's in gear and even which gear is selected (dont know about reverse) I can't actually see the need for making me declutch to start the engine when it knows the vehicle is in neutral. Am I the only one who cant adapt to the new order? Anyone found a way of disabling or over-riding the interlock?

Is your car equipped with the rain sensor? If not then you will not have the menu option.

I thought that the 1KO and 1ZO were the common prefixes for the different models but if the numeric part number was the same then the part was. Although the latter I may have invented.

I did the first long and fast journey with the Yeti bringing it over to France, after eventually switching off the music towards the end of the journey I heard noise from the back that was not present before, having just changed the Haldex oil & cleaned the filter I wondered whether I had perhaps replaced the diff oil by mistake? It came in above 60 MPH & it sounded like the LHR wheel bearing but did not change tone when loaded/unloaded by slaloming so decided it must be the diff bearings, still present if I declutched but while coasting at speed I could make it come and go by revving to 2.5K and then letting the revs drop as if a resonance from a bad engine mount was travelling down the propshaft. I had pushed & pulled the outer steel harmonic balancer when servicing the Haldex & the rubber seemed OK. Today with the car unloaded and the seats back in the normal position it was quieter, then when I put the sealing flap I made as part of the home made variofloor back in the correct position to effectively seal off the load compartment I can no longer hear the whine. So are they simply badly insulated, do you hear transmission noise on your 4x4 when the seats are lifted and/or the parcel shelf removed? It does indeed sound like the diff noise from a RWD panel van or my Caterham, both my Octavias have been well insulated with perhaps just a hint of wind noise from the rear hatch when the seats folded forward.

My rear wiper has recently been groaning and giving up after a couple of sweeps but always seemed to come back to life later. I had seen a thread with photos of where the cover was removed and the gears etc greased but cant find it now. Mine was a bit dry but after an initial greasing and refit then a more thorough strip down and lube the motor was still labouring when the blade was in contact with the screen. I bit the bullet and removed the motor assembly and worm drive then removed the rear cap and lubricated both ends of the motor shaft, reassembled, bench tested with 12v direct to motor and its as good as new now. In hindsight the motor probably does not need to be removed, the shaft behind the worm drive can be lubricated from inside the gear case leaving just the motor end cap to be removed, unusually the brushes are at the output end so its safe to remove the end cover and nothing will go flying about, the bushing was dry and causing the seizing, another possibility is grease getting onto the circular tracks for the self park mecahnism creating resistance so its worth cleaning them up and the 2 contacts. The circuit board can be removed allowing direct access to the motor terminals for bench testing. Had I not wasted time on the first 2 removals & refits then the whole job would only have taken 20-30 minutes, definitely worth doing before shelling out £80 or so for a new or second hand motor.

Can I retrofit cruise control to my 2015 2.0 TDi Yeti using this and coding with VCDS? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Octavia-Yeti-Indicator-Stalk-Switch-With-Cruise-Control-5K0953513M-New/183714477061?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda|Model%3AYeti|Cars+Year%3A2016&epid=7029972553&hash=item2ac63c7405:g:99oAAOSwCV5cfUQ1 Its a poverty spec model but has the MFD and steering wheel controls. Secondary question, do all Yetis including the base model have steering wheel controls and Bluetooth fitted as standard?

The question is for my Yeti but I think could equally be asked for other vehicles with the later cheaper cardboard type battery covers. I fitted a larger 096 battery in place of the 027 (I think) and the flimsy cover no longer goes all the way around the battery, on my Octavia that has the plastic battery case and cover the larger battery fitted in but was a tight squeeze. I would like either to use the Octavia cover & case before I sell it or simply buy a new one like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000350318451.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.521b4c4dA3veHT My question is did the battery trays remain unchanged when they swapped to the later cheaper battery covers and will the earlier ones like the above fit on the battery tray of a vehicle with a cardboard cover?

Allow me to introduce myself as a refugee from the Octavia 2 forum I have just bought a written off 2015 Yeti 4x4 and will be doing the repairs over the next few weeks and then re-registering it in France, I will drive it for a few weeks before deciding whether it is a keeper or I prefer the Octavia, the sensible part of me said that I would not buy anything newer, having a 1.9TDi PD without DPF and Euro 5 emissions I was going to stick with for another 10 years at least. but then I got bored and was itching for a project. The accident damage is absolutely minimal, no more than a broken grille, cracked DRL and a few tiny scuffs, scratches & dings, an angry female could do more damage with a feather duster, the impact however had presumably triggered the airbag control module and set off all 3 front airbags so it needs a dashboard, the 3 airbags and the 2 seatbelt mechanisms, the latter i dont know for sure but they come included with the kits sold from Poland. A few initial questions. Only one key, what is the procedure for coding replacement keys after they have been cut? Can it be done through VCDS (which I have) is there a "Master key" that has to be used to code secondary keys? How expensive could this be in the worst case scenario? Where is the airbag control module located? Is it on top of the transmission tunnel like the Octavia? I have read that they have to be sent away and reprogrammed to remove the stored crash data, will the vehicle drive without this module? as I may drive it over to France to do the dashboard work. Will VCDS have stored any fault codes r date indicating what when and why the airbags were deployed? I have a fear of replacing everything, reconnecting the battery and them all exploding again shredding the new dashboard Has anyone known these or any other VAG vehicle of the same platform having a non accident commanded airbag deployment?

With the engine not running and the vacuum bled away with a couple of pumps of the pedal I have a rock solid pedal and I can stand on it with great force and it will not sink at all no matter how long I maintain the force. If I then start the engine as the vacuum builds up the pedal sinks a little as it should once the servo assistance cuts in but if I maintain the pressure then the pedal will gradually sink to a point not on the floor but just above where it becomes spongy but will not go down any further, its about 75% of the reserve travel that it sinks. If it sank to the floor and also did it with the engine running I would know its the master cylinder seals but this has me confused, is it a characteristic of the ABS system perhaps? Its not noticeable when driving because you are never braking that long before coming to a stop, I do not notice it if I am holding the car on the brakes at a junction so think it needs more than the pressure required just to hold the vehicle steady, perhaps more pressure than normal braking. Its the same sort of feeling you get in a full blown ABS stop without the modulating, the pedal sinks in the same way but slower. Any ideas? Does yours do this as well? I replaced the fluid today and bled through the whole system but wont start the car to test the brakes till tomorrow as I am monitoring the battery drain.