J.R.

If you really want reliabilty and longevity then you need to buy a much older pre PD diesel, mine I think it was an ASV was still like a swiss watch at 500000 kms. But at that age there are other things to let the vehicle down notably electronics.

Mine on the Yeti struggles in hot weather but its leaking and I am regularly recharging it, it does not take much refrigernant loss, less than 100g to make a big difference. Switching to recirc does make a big difference and when you think about it its quite obvious, however the Climatronic never seems to do this even when its fighting a losing battle, its so good at controlling temps the rest of the time that we dont think to over-ride it to recirculate. Maybe other manufacturers do this and hence their systems cool much better during a heatwave.

You may have a diode failure in the alternator, it would explain why the charging voltage is low and why there is a high quiescent current consumption. Try disconnecting the alternator overnight to see if the battery retains its charge.

I recall my MK2 with Climatronic doing that occasionally, I think it was part of an evaporator defrost routine, I could hear the flap moving and feel the airflow dropping, the fan speed indicator lights dropping exactly as you describe except it would only last for say 20 seconds and the gradually resume with the fan speed increasing one step at a time. So I think its a normal albeit unknown function behaving abnormally. I recall (I think!) that it would do it often after initial start up dependant on what the settings were on shut down. Try switching to recirculating mode to see if it makes any difference, with this hot weather it reduces the load on the system considerably, I get much colder air on recirc but then my refrigerant will be low again as I have a leak.

In that case then no.

Probably a control cable detached at a ball joint, you should be able to manually select all the gears from under the bonnet by manipulating the big aluminium counterweight on the external linkage.

The part number would have confirmed if it was indeed a LHD fitment or perhaps an internal problem. My UK RHD 1995 Ford Galaxy, one of the first off the production line from Automotive Europa in Portugal, was fitted with LHD headlights, I expect all the others were as well till they sorted out their ****.

Pollen filter clogged.

If the radiator is leaking then the aircon condensor will be foutu as well as its first in line of any shunt. Just the body damage alone should have made it a free car, that is to say worth more for parts.

Do you know this from seeing the AC switch light up or from some other way?

That link was a model of brevity and clarity that others should aspire to, especially the graph. The "Hi guys!" influencers on Youtube or whatever they call themselves would make at least four 20+ minute videos to impart less information in a very unclear manner.

My Yeti is my first ever vehicle with a DPF, I was working on it for a few months repairing the accident damage, the engine got started a lot of times but never driven anywhere, maybe a few feet backwards & forwards, several times I would leave it idling for 30+ minutes till everything was up to temperature, not sure if that was good or bad for the DPF. One time the fans ran on after switch off but I didn't know what it was. Then I got the DPF light which freaked me out, I had finished the repairs then so took it for a drive, within 10 minutes of the oil reaching temperature it was all over. Since then like some of the others I am completely unaware of the DPF, I have never noticed a higher idle speed and the fan has never run after switch off, the vehicle got little use during the confinement and when it did it was only 2-5 mile trips, now I am back to my usual routine of 3 or 4 return trips per week of 10 miles each way, one or two of 20 miles each way and maybe 5 or more 2-3 mile trips and I have never experienced a forced regen. I have VCDS and when I looked before there were thousands of parameters to check, is there a distance since last forced regen or until the next one? Any other parameters that I should be looking at? Its hard to know which ones are calculated and which ones are measured.

The way the transfer box works means that changing the front diff ratio alone will change the gearing by the same amount on both axles and the transfer box and rear differential can be standardised across all the vehicles, engine sizes, power ratings, fuels and wheel tyre combinations.

I still think that I am in my youth but you can't be any more than a young adult to have fitted LED headlights "in your youth" In my real youth 12v electrics and sealed beam headlights were the new thing, then Ford & Vauxhall brought out the Escort & Viva with oblong headlights, now that was something really new!!!! The dipped beam light coverage from my adjusted downwards H7 HID conversion is somewhere between 15m and 2kmand a million times better than the standard set up, but then so were the 6v headlights on my split screen VW campers even with bad earths and a slipping generator drive belt.

Are you sure that your slave cylinder is within the bellhousing? My MK1 had an external one, easily replaced.

Where do you think the premium brands have their products manufactured? The only thing that has changed is that now they have to print on the product where it is made, many find a way around that by assembling or packaging the items in europe. At least you know that its not counterfeit because those guys ain't concerned about respecting the laws and would print made in Germany on it.

Editted, forget the following, it relates to the MK1 Octavia. Boot LH side behind removeable panel. Slide cover to one side then press button (yellow?) to release disc carrier.

Moved to a MK2 Octavia from a MK1, I fitted both with new LHD headlights correctly adjusted for use in France, the MK1 had better illumination than the old lights it replaced because the silver on the reflector was shinier and the perspex virgin. The MK2 was appalling and driving the same country roads I take at night for the last 5 years was downright dangerouns by comparison. I was expecting an improvement with the new LHD lights (OEM like the MK1 ones) but aside from the correct dipped beam cut off they were equally appalling, a dim yellow light from where the BCM reduces the bulb voltage to extend life. I fitted a 35 watt (might have been 55) Ali-Express HID conversion and the light output was absolutely stunning. However with the same alignment (done on MOT rig) as the halogens it was dazzling oncoming motorists, not all but one is one too many, I had to progressively drop the beam aim till Ino longer got flashed, it no longer lights up the road 2km ahead like a rally car but is still a million times better than the halogen bulbs. I cannot understand how Skoda got it so wrong, they were downright dangerous. I expected to have to do the same on the Yeti, it has the same type of halogen projector lamps but they are really really good which makes the MK2 Octavia set up all the more frustrating.

My Yeti is the exact same year and spec and came from the same region. It has several zinc inclusion spots on the door bottoms but you have to look for them, being a solid colour blue I'm not too concerned. Rear discs and front backplates very very rusty and had to replace immediately, the rest of the suspension, sub frames etc have a lot less rust than my MK2 Octavia that had lived near the beach in the south of England but it may have spent longer there and was an older vehicle. I think aside from the consumable discs & backplates rust will not be an issue but wont know for another 5 years, the Octavia that looked really bad on the subframes etc was not terminal and every nut & bolt undid with some initial resistance but the threads were still plated. Cant think of any other environmental issues.

I have tried both cable routes and would plump for the roof lining and A pillar. There is very little room in the bellows, not sure if there is enough for a connector, pulling through the terminated phono plug alongside the existing cables is quite a challenge. If the connector will go in then it avoids a ball-ache but could cause another, strain relief on the connector or bending the other cables.

The seals dont dry out except in oldwivestaleleand. The clutchless pump runs constantly and circulates the refrigerant even when the aircon is switched off.

I dont think so Micky, the different wheel sizes end up at pretty much the same rolling radius when the tyre profile is taken into account, the CW&P ratio is matched to the ratio of the front transfer box which I believe is common across all the gearboxes. Funny how every 4x4 rear diff you get near to ends up failing, I hope you didnt change your Haldex oil in the same manner after watching me sabotage mine

3 months later but not a lot of miles due to la confinement and my rear diff is singing like a good un, just waiting for the day that the internals make a bid for freedom through the casing. Have a few complete diffs bookmarked on E-bay, not too expensive but it looks like there are a few others on the forum in the market for one.

Looks like you were right unfortunately, easy with hindsight but the indications would have been there, sometimes as rude as it may seem when a disaster waiting to happen type of person asks for your help you have to interrogate them as to whats gone on before for their own protection, very often they will hide or forget significant things like "I was driving and there was a jerk, a tinkling noise and the engine stopped, when I tried to start it it span over very fast" Its a shame that you have spent a lot of time trying to help and working on the persons car for no result.

Current consumed by the LED array is probably too low for the volt drop monitoring system, I would be very surprised if it were to react to the failure of one LED unless it was shorted, I'm with MicMac on this one.