J.R.

Personal choice and each to his own etc but I dont like the plain black badge, could be any black plastic disc to my (admittedly defective) eyes. I really like the black logo and surround on the white background, your badge might look equally as good if you were to remove the black from the logo and paint that part white, make effectively a negative of the one shown. The best way of course would have been to paint the badge white before the plasticoat & then remove it exposing the logo in white. In fact you have inspired me, I dont particularly like the green Skoda logo insert, my bonnet badge is cracked from the accident and the panel a little dented around it, I will remove it to do some PDR and then try and replicate the white on black badge.

RJB, you should be able to look down and see if the bolt is present and if its turning. I am in the next departement from you and have VCDS and aircon vacuum down & recharge facilities & would be happy to look over your vehicle to gain more experience, being in your shoes and in the same geographic location is what made me invest in the equipment.

Thanks Ken!

I'm stoked to hear that, I spent months trying everything and was at the point of throwing in the towel before I tried that as a final last ditch attempt. As I said I have 2 versions of what I am convinced is exactly the same head unit sold under different names (no names written on the actual units), the female version works fine, the male one cannot multi-task

Thats what caused my confusion.

It can be fitted but not enabled in the main engine ECU if it has been swopped for a remapped one. Easy to recode using VCDS which will also tell you why its not working. No dashboard light on my 2006 pre F/L.

VCDS will log a fault code for low high side refrigerant pressure and also display a corresponding compressor shut down code but at something like 3 bar absolute but the system will stop giving out cold air before that happens. Last time I topped mine up it took very little gas for the high side pressure to rise to where it should be and for full cooling to be re-established. I think they have to design the systems to run with the minimum of environmentally unfriendly gas

Resurrecting this topic. I got some gearbox oil locally flushed the diff with paraffin while running with all 4 wheels off the ground then refilled with the new oil, that was nearly 3 months ago but with our properly enforced and respected confinement here I did not get the opportunity to test the vehicle any more than 100m or so and have been doing all my journeys by bike. Now the 100km limit has also been lifted I have used the car a bit and got everything warm and travelled at up to a maximum of 70mph but not carrying a heavy load for a long distance like when I did the journey with the differential dry of lubricant. I can hear some transmission noise now but of course I have my ear open for it, its only discernible above 60mph, not particularly intrusive and does not seem to be getting any worse, it does not sound any different to the transmission noise from the rear of say a Suzuki Jeep with the 4WD disengaged, just the slight drone of the CWP bearings. I have asked the question of another forum member who owns both a FWD and a 4x4 Octavia whether the Scout has a transmission noise that the FWD one doesn't & he says it does, from his description it sounds like the noise that I have, I dont think the Yeti has such good soundproofing and the sealing around the parcel shelf to the rear compartment is not as good, also I sit closer to the rear axle in the Yeti. So I want to ask the question to the general forum if any of you have experience of both FWD and 4x4 versions of any model be they Octavia, Superb, Yeti or other common platform VAG vehicles is there any additional transmission noise on the 4x4 version audible to your ears? I may have been lucky with my bêtise but without the feedback from the forum it would be years before I would have the confidence to go on a long trip with the vehicle fully loaded and/or towing a large trailer as recovery type breakdown insurance does not exist here. Thanks in anticipation.

Yep, a windows sysmbol beside some writing like a Chinese sick note My old unit spent most of its time displaying those, the new one never. Here is some advice regarding living with your unit. Switch off the auto-start navi function and any other things that auto-start. Use just one function at a time, radio, CD etc. switch them off before using the Shatnav, easier said than done, my biggets gripe was the radio booming out every time I turned the ignition on, I had to leave it set to an unused input like the TV. Switch on the satnav only when you want to use it, dont listen to the radio or music at the same time, accept that parking sensors (if they display) door open display or reversing camera if fitted will likely cause the system to crash. The multi-tasking is not such a problem if the Shatnav is not used and reversing etc with the radio on is less likely to cause a crash, the virtual CD player will rarely play more than a few tracks without crashing, its better to copy them onto the memory card than onto the units memory. The satnav may refuse to loadn buying a new one on a memory card for less than a tenner from China will get it working again, had to do that twice on the old unit, the A-sure to date seems OK. If you ever do a VCDS scan expect fault code city as a result of fitting one of these radios.

Sounds like the unit was already installed when you bought the car, regarding the radio its very easy to break the special connector so check that first. I also had radio reception problems on this one, I cant recall what I did but it was something either in the radio set up or the unit programming which resolved it, prior to that it seemed like a duff aerial.

I have that one, are you sure its Android because mine is WinCE. My previous one another chonky make would crash all the time like yours, it just could not multitask yet the A-sure one which was a bargain at £80 is completely stable. It has a couple of niggles that I cant resolve like the door handing, that I programmed out on the other unit but cant find an option to do it on the A-sure, there is a further factory programming menu only accessible by the factory code (try 3368) where the function should be found but they are all in incomprehensible Chinglish and none I tried would change it. Instead of being able to choose between 4 backlight colours for the buttons mine only has Blue and White, the latter just being a dimmer Blue. Not even tried the Bluetooth on this one, the last one drove me mad because it wanted me to repair the phone every time I switched on the ignition. I hit lucky this time, all the functions I want to use, radio, CD, CD's copied to the memory card, Satnav, reversing camera etc all work and will work together without it crashing, for the money its more than I expected, my expectations were revised to reality after the experience with the first unit, a Tingtonglinglong something or other.

How do you take apart a shell that has already been scrapped? Or do you mean administratively, V5 surrendered?

I'm still riding the same bike I bought in the 80's, it has oval front sprockets, I have never known any different. Its a Dawes Switchback and been faultlessly reliable, last year after 30+ years of use the Shimano selector for the rear hub finally failed and I was delighted to find a new old stock one on E-bay that had to come all the way from Singapore, cost more than a new bike from any of the sheds like Decathlon but what price do you put on the head of a faithfull companion that has travelled around the world with you? And when I got it t was used and not new old stock 🙁

Not the Superb but I experienced it in both my Octavias, the MK2 was worse than the MK1, opening the rear windows slightly would resolve the issue. The Yeti is absolutely appalling in this regard due I believe to the panels being made from kitchen foil. Its something that I would definitely want to check on a test drive.

Thanks for that, its been an education to me as well. Next I am going to carefully lift both front wheels on trolley jacks with their wheels facing longitudinally and the very carefully engage the drive to confirm that the car tries to move forward, will have to wait for a visit to the UK post quarantine as I only have one trolley jack here. I need to ask the question again does the Yeti 4x4 have electronic differential lock on the front diff?

Mine are 60's vintage classic Dunlop guages so worth a fortune to the historic racers. The point I was making is that I do have a choice and I do have the knowledge and experience and when I changed the front springs on my MK2 Octavia (that I had previously checked the tracking on and knew that it was OK) I did not waste my time rechecking the tracking it would have been simply a waste of time. If you are changing the track rod ends then of course you will need to have the tracking reset.

That made me smile For the moment dissapointed, had similar surgery in 2008 and immediately could see for the first time in 9 months, this time she said that I should see better straight away but I could see nothing, it was far worse. On several different treatments for a week then more surgery, today its probably returned to 80% of what was there before the surgery so its a waiting game.

Wont stop the driver or passenger getting out and walking across the road while staring into their smartphone though. I just hope that the oncoming vehicle is big, heavy and unyeilding and not a cyclist, I have a former tri-athlete friend who is now in a wheelchair thanks to a pedestrian being in their own bubble and stepping into the road, he was knocked off his bike and the vehicle following could not avoid running into him, the driver of that vehicle has his own nightmares to contend with.

Everyone has their own beliefs & comfort zones, in the above example I would not check the tracking and I have my own Dunlop optical tracking guages, others would pay a garage to check it for peace of mind. The only thing doing the above work that could influence the tracking in any way would be if the new strut had a huge bend in it i.e. not cylindrical and concentric enough to throw out the camber which would have a marginal effect on the tracking & of far less importance than the camber change. The reason I invested in tracking guages was seeing what a terrible job most garages did of it, throwing the delicate things around never NEVER not even once checking the zero setting (takes 10 seconds) before using, when finding the car was within limits most if they were not being observed would change the setting on one track rod so that they could charge and in doing so put it out of track and leave the steering wheel misaligned. Whenever anyone says to me they have had their vehicle tracked I ask is the steering wheel straight? Often the answer is no, I put my guages on and find its out of limits, I look for the trackrod that has been adjusted, usually I can just see the position it was and move it back, tighten the locknut and check the guage to find its then exactly where it should be. Aside from the abuse of the delicate instruments the real problems started with "free tracking checks"

If the strut is removed by the method that I use then there is no need for tracking to be checked unless there is a suspicion that it is already out (uneven tyre wear) and no need for either socket.

I remain unconvinced by the supposed fairy tale ending to that one. Interesting thats its nowhere to be found, you always seem to be able to dig up anything.

Mine does but they raise it to the exact height to hit my forehead if I lean over from the waist to see or lift something out of the boot, there is space for it to go higher & touch the top of the door aperture but the geometry doesn't allow it. I will have a look to see if the pick up points can be moved & the cord length altered, otherwise I will make a retaining catch.

I say the problem is with the other one with 30° of movement. Been there, done that, got the T shirt. It may be a little too close the way he has done it but if it doesn't bind it will soon wear and the self adjuster will work as it should, problem of compensator angling over and long pedal travel is from the other caliper. Often the handbrake cable is overadjusted on the bad side in order to hold the vehicle and also remove some of the long pedal, this can be witnessed by the caliper lever not returning to its stop like on the good one.

If the self adjusting mechanism on the caliper is working OK then the lever will only move through say 5 or 10 degrees, you will be gettng more like 30+ degrees on the one where the compensator is moving forward. You will also likely have spongy brakes. With the engine running is the brake pedal much firmer when the handbrake is pulled up hard?

2015 Yeti, pathetic excuse of a horn which I am embarrassed to use. Only found one on I think the NS chassis rail when I did the accident repair, it functions properly but is just pants, I dont recall finding spare wiring on the other chassis rail, does anyone know if all the looms have provision for the secnd tone horn?