durhamfisher

Great link, thanks. Shows just how the turbo gets caked up with soot.

The variable vanes stick on the turbo and cause the car to go into limp home mode. At least thats what happened to me. I changed the turbo at 50k ish. A bloke next door has done 160k with his and its on the original turbo.

Yes, you should change the oil, you should really be on fixed servicing if you only do 10k a year.

First, its maybe just a one off. However, I've seen a number of posts on the forum with warm start issues. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/102282-20-tdi-warm-start-problem-unfixable/page__hl__warm%20start Worth staying calm and see if it happens again though.

Agree with dstev2000, give it a couple of glow plug cycles, I find it improves starting on a cold morning.

Just a guess, but was there only one negative cable to the battery e.g. have you missed putting a lead back on. On my previous cars some have had more than one.

Bit of an obvious one but it hasnt been mentioned, try changing the fuel filter? Cheaper than a cylinder head!

As a matter of interest, how old is your car and how many miles have you done? I had mine changed this year, car was 4 years old, 56K.

Maybe I'm missing the point here, is there an actual fault with the car or is it just that the battery voltage is 0.1v off its optimum level? On the servicing question, it isn't just that its on variable rather than on fixed? You would have expected Skoda HQ to have serviced it correctly.

Well done for sticking to your guns and getting Skoda to pay for it.

When I first bought my Octy (9k miles) it had the same clutch judder when cold, only now and again. I got it checked out for DMF problems and they said it was OK. Problem disappeared after 20K or so. I just put it down to bedding in the new clutch.

I hope you can get that sorted, makes me feel much better about my blue coolant topup incident! Any idea how they flush it out?

I called Skoda before my cambelt change and they advised not to change the water pump. I took their advice and now I have a small coolant leak, requires topping up once a month or so. I think Nigel has hit on the problem straight away. On the same theme, I took Skoda's advice that variable servicing was fine for the car, then had to replace the turbo at 56K.:rotz:

Simple question really, to Octy II TDi water pumps fail? Do you know of anyone who has had a failure? Or is it all hype driven from the old recall from the Octy I days?

Max to Min every 1000 miles or so. How does the cambelt change disturb the water pump? I know its driven by the belt, but do they have to remove it?

No but it started after a cambelt change. No water drips under the car though. Is the car driveable until I get it done or will it make it worse?

I've been loosing water from the system for a while now and been topping it up with plain water. Today, I checked the level and it was on minimum again so I topped it up with some antifreeze I had in my garage. Not thinking I added the coolant in 1/4L and then topped up well over the max mark. Dawned on me afterwards that the antifreeze I added was blue and not pink (Halfords type). So.... 1. Do I need to flush the system as it doesn't conform to G12 spec (but has BS6580:1992 on the bottle) I only added 1/4 of a litre? 2. If so how do I do it. I did drive the car to the garage and back so I suspect its in the system now.

Check with Skoda that the radio recall has been applied to your car. The recall fixes a problem where the radio drains the battery if left for long periods. However, after I had the firmware applied, the loud bang never happened again and that was two years ago.

Take battery negative lead off to cut the power to the CD changer?

Just try getting Skoda to admit it then!

Just make sure you give it a good thrash now and again to keep those turbo vanes from sticking

From the castrol web site: Multigrades are easily recognized by the dual viscosity rating (i.e. 10W-30 where the 10W is the low temperature or winter designation and the 30 is the high temperature designation). It is the motor oil viscosity modifier additive that produces a thickening effect at high temperatures but is dormant at low temperatures. Which viscosity grade is right for you? SAE Viscosity Grade Motor Oil: 5W-30 Temperature Conditions: Below 0° F Description: Provides excellent fuel economy and low temperature performance in most late-model automobiles. Especially recommended for new cars. So 5W-40 should be at least equivalent. However, it available in both fully synthetic and semi synthetic so if you are concened a quick call to the garage should clear it up. As I said previously its the VW spec that important and confirms it the correct oil grade for your car. Regarding the turbo issue, its claimed that variable servicing causes early turbo failure not the oil grade as far as I am aware.

Should be 5w-30, I think I saw a post recently that said some dealers were using 5w-40. Anyway, its the VW spec you should be interested in, look on this link http://briskoda.net/octavia-ii/what-oils-meets-specs-vw-504-00-507-00-a/55476/

Take it to someone with VAG-COM and get them to check the fault codes. It may take some of the guess work out of your problem solving.

Sounds normal to me, both my turbos have whistled when under boost. You will know the "police siren" sound if it ever happens to your turbo. I recognised mine starting to fail with that distinctive noise. It just doesnt sound right, you can hear it in time with the revs (up to 2.5k revs) but about a second behind. Even my wife could hear it, which was a first!