NJRJ

You! not the link.

Troll surely?

As the sides are very thin particle board (well they might be full on plastic but think they actually claim to be green/recyclable...) but they won't in any way be secure, and even if you backed them in ali/steel/whatever then the tabs would still ping off, so I can't see the point of being lockable?

RAB? I thought of doing that until someone who'd ridden it twice (and then stopped) said make sure you pack imodium

Hardtail everytime if budget's 'tight' as any extra component to add sus' is usually decidedly "sus" unless you spend a wedge of money. Best (roadie) advice I had was allow roughly £300-500 on each part, so you want wheels, running gear, frame, fork which is 4 items so £1200 as starting price and that doesn't get best gear for each bit listed, for upgrades spend at least that suggested and so £300 wheels are probably OK, road (so hardtail) frame £300 (much less really unless special) but add £100's for shock. £300 front gearing and £300 rear gearing might work (if you spend £300 on the other gear bits!) as groupsets are silly money. Forks are probably dearer on a boingy - and easily £300 for the shock on both ends. Good kit costs a lot, cheap stuff makes for a 'shed' bike, shed is not a euphemism rather the dumping ground because they are so carp. Decathlon have semi decent stuff vaguely cheap to buy (and some proper good stuff too). Boardman used to be the canine sphericals, well it was before Chris sold out - it still might be as he sold out fully to Halfords, and Mike Ashley doesn't own them yet... (Currently screwing the Evans name).

So the car being programmed for a driving god/ average/aggressive/slow/suicidal driver suited you as delivered (delete as appropriate )

The big circular saw blade sets available on the back give a staggering range now (albeit in big steps) so bike brands and their advert driven media [1] see no real need for extra complication, and expense for another ring up front (or the 75g extra weight [2]). [1] The extra ring up front will be next years upgrade [3] [2] Important to fat heavy blokes like me [3] but it'll have a fancy name rather than double.

Plastic drinks bottles fit well and if one of them goes flying the kids only get cold and wet.

You will never regret an induction hob, well other than maybe needing new pans, and is so so superior to gas in controllability too. My perfect combo would be induction hob and a gas fan oven (well I'd settle for eleccy fan) but apparently gas ovens do meringue much better...

8 sp = indestructible*, 9/10 less so, 11 more fragile, 12spd I wouldn't buy. I had 8spd back in the day, and I never changed anything (5 years?). 9 spd for chain life was once every 2yrs (and I'd got fitter/rode more) the wear showed as over 0.5% (on a cheap gauge) but less than .75% mark (so 1/16"- 3/32" on a 12" length, this is visible pin to pin on a good steel rule) or I might need new a new cassette (but you just swap your chain and if it skips you swap back and ride the old chain/cassette combo to death). With 10spd it was way more fragile for chain life , and .5% was sooo often, maybe yearly. BUT with 11spd it has been a disaster, a chain last 3,000 miles at best (so 1/2 annual mileage), and needs doing without fail or it's a new cassette within weeks of missing the swap, AND all this assumes decent chain care and regular re-lube. I hate 10/11 spd, and I wouldn't touch 12 spd as chains and cassettes are getting so much thinner to pack more redundancy gears in... * I was weaker and did less ** ** I'm lighter and do more, I'd like to think I'm stronger but I doubt it, match fit maybe...

I found our old hob top used much more power than the oven, I think the small ring consumed ~2.5kw (same as the oven), the middle 2 ring went up to 3.5kw and the big one 5, no wonder they cycled off and on or the cable would have been toast, latest oven is legal on a 13amp plug and flex, not checked the rating plate so could be 3kw. Total time on for an oven will chew more power than a relatively briefly used hotplate. Go for gas before it's banned

Aren't flat spots only a thing for the old cross plies (from the 60's-70's?). I've seen 2 (only 2 admittedly) French tyre storage depots (snow/summer storage) each stored 'wheels' the opposite way to each other, AND had 'tyres only' stored just the same way, doesn't mean that either of them was wrong of course, as both ways may work, and no I'm not revisting for best of three check just yet, I can return in July (after my 2nd jab) if anyone would donate to a just giving

I drive a manual and never look at the gearstick area, the stick is always there even in the dark I think the light is for the cubbyholes.

I have a westfalia detachable, (completely hidden when removed, as the wiring pivots out of sight, mine is with full 13pin electrics and use a 13 to 12N/S adapter to use anything on old electrics. About £800 fitted including 2 good quality adapters, one adapter is 13pin to 12N and 12S for older caravans, the other just 12N for a bike carrier/luggage trailer.

Aren't the photo's just backed up to the cloud (Google drive) and so only the thumbnails are visible and the actual photo's in the cloud?

Tyre mould release agent and new tyres still to bed in? You're not on hard lock and getting the diff spinning one side are you?

A small crawling child wouldn't have a warning flag or the ability to avoid you - if the sensor triggers you have to STOP! (Well I would). Why dont you reverse onto the drive? Rather than reverse into traffic, any incident would be 'due care' and you'd be stuffed.

If the wheels are in the drop outs properly then the only thing it could be is bent/twisted frame or fork, that should be visible from directly behind with the front wheel straight, he hasn't just got a slightly offset handlebars has he?. Can he ride it no hands (assuming he can ride no hands), try it yourself, be a squeeze but I've ridden tiny bikes and sat down on a slight downhill I can tell if a frame is off. Standing up and honking on a tiny bike is dangerous/fun... You want to read this thread:- https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=59332

Camouflage for the defeat device then .

I ride a road bike and do 50 odd miles at least twice a week, lockdown #1 was hard work/boring solo but recently it's been 2, up to 6 when permitted. I've had a really good year and recorded the most distance since records began (2004 as just yearly paper totals, but since 2011 every ride recorded via GPS). I use a Garmin Explore GPS as a speedo - it will also do SatNav if I'm somewhere unknown, say on a tour - back in the day when that could be done. The Garmin website stores all ride data and I've just added a heart strap and cadence magnet to get those stats though only 15 rides so far. Heart rate average range 105-120, max between 146-172, leg rate averages 65-78 rpm. Resting heart rate is 57 just sat here. I'm 59, 6' 2" and 180lbs/82kgs. I incidentally was also 15 stone/95kg until I started cycling more regularly.

I still think you should try a real bike on real roads with hills and wind and stuff, bit more real

Presumably you re-balanced them? If not the first tyres happened to be so far out they managed to correct for the drive shafts - seems very unlikely?

If it only happened after new tyres then it's the tyres!

Is it still the case that the speed rating is the 10 minutes a tyre can last without it self destructing, so 11 minutes on a Y at the rated max might get interesting (not on a Superb obv.)

Dig at me, thanks. Frequently used tyres (albeit alledgedly) fair better than ones stood doing nowt, can't hurt to cover them just in case can it?