Gammyleg

OK, got a bit of time to post some pics and further information. Tyres are Slovenia's finest Dunlop SportMaxx RT2 (94Y) Picture is of one of the rumbling rear tyres. Inside track is left, outside is on the right of the pic.. As per NJRJs post there seems to be the beginnings of the tread base cracking on the inner radial channel. This is apparent on both rear tyres which are approx 2 years old / 50k miles. Not shown clearly in the photo, the centre radial tread has worn down slightly more than the two adjacent radial treads by 0.6mm, indicating running over-inflated. ( I have been inflating all the tyres to ECO option ). Also when sat on the floor the wheel/tyre doesn't stand vertically, it leans inward by about 15 degrees. Tread depths measured in each radial channel from inside to outside ( L - R ) were 4.31mm - 3.80mm - 4.13mm - 5.19mm As mentioned in an earlier post, I spotted the shocks were both leaking ( now replaced with new pair of Sachs ) and when checking the rear tyres, some of the inside tread segments are noticeably more worn than others, which I believe is called 'cupping' After doing a diagonal front-to-back swap, the rumble has now moved to the front of the car. Can I expect the rumble to reduce as the tyres wear further, ie will the less worn segments ultimately catch up with the 'cupped' segments?

I bought my 2016 1.6Tdi Estate just over 2 years ago for £9500 retail. 80k miles. That was roughly the going rate back then. Has now done 135k miles. Service history similar to your description. So far have had to change the following: Cambelt & Water Pump. Knew this was due when I bought it and got £500 off the original asking price. ( Plan to do this at 80k intervals, Skoda say every 40k but sod them. ) Battery - 2 weeks ago. Stop-Start function now working again. Rear Wiper Blade. 4 new tyres. Front headlight bulb ( super easy 2 minute job unlike Audi A4 and others ) Currently needs 2 new rear shocks, rear discs & pads. DSG even-to-odd changes can be a bit slippy. When I get more confident I'll attempt a reset with my VCDS Good comfortable car, achieves average 60mpg ( lots of relaxed motorway use ) and the boot space is humungous. Previous car was a new '65 plate Mercedes C200 Estate. Quality-wise the Skoda is just as good.

Thanks for all your replies. With gratitude I can now report that Bap33 was right on the money with the saw-tooth tyre theory.😀 I swapped the tyres diagonally across the car and the rumble has now moved to the front end with no more booming from the back. While doing this I spotted that both rear shocks are leaking so I suspect this has had an influence. ( they were OK when last MOT'd in June ) I'll post a couple of pics & tread depth numbers as & when I've got a bit more time.

Hearing a rhythmic rumble from the rear of the car and suspect that one of the wheel bearings is on it's way out. I would expect the rumble to get louder when cornering ( often helps to identify which side is failing ), but the rumble stays constant whichever way I turn so I'll have to get it on a jack and spin each wheel to find the culprit. I've watched a couple of youtube videos as to how to carry it out the replacement and it looks quite straight forward. Any tips would be useful, specifically final torque figure and also is there still a requirement to tighten a further 180 degrees once torqued-up?

Doesn't everything these days.😬

After having a belt & pump change at an independent, my Superb took a couple of weeks to fully burp itself free from trapped air. Was topping up with coolant every day during this time but has been fine ever since.

Still new to Skoda but my experience of squeals related to cambelts was when my cam belt tensioner failed. It had been noticeable for a month or so before it seized. From recollection I'd changed the belt & pump not long beforehand but had not bothered with the tensioner. Luckily for me the damage was repairable as it wasn't an interference engine. Maybe you could check to see if this was replaced as part of the belt/pump job. Would be surprised if it wasn't.

Terrific!! Thanks varooom. Will report back if that works. Hoping to find out if the 'Driving Mode' function has been disabled or deleted.

According to numerous Youtube videos I should be able to view the 'Function Enabling Codes' by pressing the Menu button on the MIB for approx 10 secs and entering 'Service Mode'. Once in Service Mode I only get the option to view 'Software Updates' & 'HMI Codes'. Any idea if there is another route I can take to see the FECs? Thanks

Interesting read. Looking at the factory fitted sound deadening that I've come across over the years, it appears that it is targeted at certain areas of the floor pan doors etc, ie not continuous, but a series of patches dotted about the place. Looking at one of the Silent Coat project reviews, the owner had completely covered every square inch of internal panels. Is this necessary or just a bit of overkill?

Yes, coded through 19-CAN Gateway UDS which allows easy change from 68ah to 70ah. The old battery hadn't been coded in although the rating of 68ah was correct, it was listed as JCB rather than Varta and the serial no. was recorded as 11111111 The new battery didn't have a BEM sticker so I used the serial number from the old battery. Have contacted the supplier about the missing sticker but they have not responded. This may mean a poor review from me.

Job done over the weekend. Stop-Start problem now fixed. Not the most straightforward process compared to how things used to be ( disconnect-remove-replace-reconnect ) but got there in the end. The coding for the old battery was wrong, different make (JCB) and serial no.1111111

Just fitted the Varta pictured earlier in this thread on Saturday. £147.00 delivered. Almost a like-for-like with the one that was to be replaced however they are now 70ah rather than 68ah . Coded into the car with VCDS, but noticed that the previous stored battery data was for a JCB battery serial no. 11111111 Seems to have cured the non functioning Stop-Start system.

Just bought the closest option to what was already in the car - Varta Silver AGM 70ah Stop-Start for £147.00. Hoping that choosing the same make might make the coding slightly easier. Now need to find a neighbour with a set of jump leads so I can swap over without losing the presets.

Have just run a voltage check on cranking the engine. 1st result was 10.6v, followed by 2 at 9.6v. Guess a new battery is in order.

Have only noticed it recently, but may have been happening for longer. I'm a steady driver so rarely need to get moving quickly, but when I do this problem becomes apparent. Scenario 1 will happen every time from ignition startup. Single foot user only. I have Hill Hold Assist but as far as I know it's not switched on. 1.6 Tdi , 130,000 miles. 2016 model so probably not covered by Recall.

Scenario 1 Brake Pedal depressed, start car on ignition - Move selector from P to D - Press accelerator pedal - Nothing. Get the message 'Press Brake Pedal' - Do as I'm told & off we go. Scenario 2 Brake Pedal depressed, start car on ignition - Move selector from P to D - Keep brake pedal pressed for 2 - 3 seconds - Press accelerator pedal - Off we go. Only happens after car is started on ignition button, not after a Stop-Start event. Is this normal or a sign of wear in the mechatronic ( sticky valve or similar)? Does this explain why the Skoda is not recommended as a getaway car

My Stop-Start ceased to function about 6-8 weeks ago. Having trawled through and discounted the many possible causes, the 'Power Consumption' message on the IT system seems to be the likely reason. Even with everything electrical ( fan, A/C, Lights etc ) switched off the message remains and the Stop-Start still doesn't work. Is this message a convoluted way of telling me the battery is on the way out? It's 6 years old and has covered 130,000 miles. Thanks

I get the car serviced every 6 months which equates roughly to 12,500 miles, so somewhere in-between the two schedules. This is good enough for me. As for doing it myself, I no longer have a driveway or any off road parking which makes things a bit more difficult. An intermediate service is costing me about £130 and £240 for the major service + MOT. Not too painful at the moment.

I drive 100 miles a day, 50 out and 50 back home. 90% is motorway. Speed between 50 - 70mph with average 63mpg. Based on tables above I think I'm definitely in the variable/extended oil service catagory.

I read recently that BMW are now contacting owners and asking whether they would like some of the inoperative factory fitted options switched on. For which they then charge a monthly fee!! I think some other manufacturers are also doing the same.

Thanks for the replies. I'm also erring on the side that the service interval reset was done incorrectly by the garage. Not massively impressed with these johnnies and have now found a VW specialist locally who seems to live & breathe VW ( and by extension Skoda, Seat etc etc ) so will be using him from now on. Presumably I can do a reset myself with my VCDS. Also, is there a Oil Quality monitor built into the ECU somewhere that checks the performance of the oil and decides when it is next due a change?

I have a 2016 1.6tdi Superb Estate, Engine type DCXA. Bought 2nd hand in 2020 with full history from previous lease company indicating Skoda main dealer servicing @ 18800, 37900, 53100 & 72000. The Skoda invoices state 'Flexible Oil Servicing'. Since purchasing the car I have had the servicing carried out by an independent twice per year to cover the 25k miles per annum that I drive. I have noticed that the 'Oil Service Due' message on the dash display is saying that the next oil change is due in 1300 miles. This equates to 6100 miles since the last service. Have the garage screwed around with the oil service distance reminder when resetting it or have they refilled with sh1te oil which is now failing and has been picked up by the oil sensor ( if such a thing exists ). Thanks

Hi, I have detected some 'flaring' between the gear changes on my 2016 Superb 1.6Tdi estate. 2-3 always, 4-5 often & 6-7 occasionally. Is it possible to diagnose the problem and if possible rectify via VCDS and if so, can anyone recommend a DSG specialist near Ashford in Kent or Purfleet in Essex? Thanks in advance

Thanks guys, that seems to be it.