Gammyleg

As it only appears when idling, maybe one of the engine / gearbox rubber mounts is failing. This is assuming it has any. Others will know.

If you are able to get sight of any paper copies of the servicing ( there should be some ) it may well give the last driver's name and phone number as mine did. You could possibly contact them directly and ask. It may be that they lost their job hence the early return. As above, dealers seem happy to take cars back before time as the 2nd hand prices are so good. Less hassle than going to court.

Nor me, however my work colleague has a PCP with Audi who have for the last 6 months or so, being trying to get him to upgrade to a newer model even though he still has a year left to run on his existing plan. I think the massive surge in 2nd hand prices now means that the dealers can get more profit from early return of the old car and swapping for a new one.

The first signs of which often manifests itself by disabling the stop-start function.

By 'lagging' I mean that I need to give the loud pedal a bit of a shove to get an instant-ish response. A light footed approach gets a yawn, a stretch and an 'OK if I must'. As for the OP's Skoda Invoice, I'd be interested to know what item 104 Repair Kit entails?

If it's anything like a 1.6tdi with 7speed DSG I would say yes to both. 1st gear seems to be pointless as it shifts to 2nd almost instantly and always a bit lagging when trying to start from stationery.

Fair point, however to do a proper job I'll likely need to change the coolant that's currently in the system as I'm pretty sure it isn't G12 evo compliant. This will involve the VCDS once more which I'm rapidly falling out of love with. The cam belt & water pump are due a change in about 30k miles so could get the G12 evo added then and whip the bag out again.

Looks the same as mine. The bag looks and feels robust enough that I might even consider putting it back.

Whenever I've looked at the coolant bottles, I can't see any spec listed.

Which engine do you have? My 1.6tdi Superb with DSG is also very sluggish on take-off, if it were a manual transmission you'd think I was riding the clutch. I think maybe you need to be a bit more heavy footed I think there is something that can be adjusted as regards throttle response, the details of which can be searched on the forum.

I've just pulled my bag out of the expansion tank, took 2 minutes with a pair of long nose tweezers. I was worried I might damage the bag and spill the contents but it seems to be a well made bag with no signs of deterioration. Question about the correct coolant/antifreeze: I know I should use the G12evo, but all the brands I've seen so far don't reference any spec. Is it just a case of finding the right colour, Pink? Currently have Pink Prestone in the system. Is this OK?

Wondering what the 'risk' is?

I have EPB on the rears and managed to push both sides back in, no turning. Again, may not have followed procedure but seems not to have caused any damage. Both sides working well.

Not sure if I did the right thing but I just pushed the pistons back with the handle of my breaker bar. Seems to have worked OK.

Just changed rear discs and pads. Standard spannering stuff although one of the caliper sliding bolts is located in a difficult spot for removal and refitting. One of the brake lines is situated right behind it which makes attaching a ratchet difficult. On the plus side I didn't need to remove the whole caliper assembly to get the disc off, just the sliding section. Also managed to find an up-to-date Ross Tech VCDS tutorial for this very task supposedly detailing steps to follow with IDS protocol, which it doesn't, but I managed the blag my way through it anyway. Next two jobs needed are above my pay grade - clutch pack replacement and crank seal oil leak. Will leave those to the professionals.

I had a similar problem with a Ford Mondeo company car. The two rear tyres looked exactly the same as the OP's after a similar mileage. ATS didn't want to let me leave without getting them changed as they said it was dangerous and had to argue with the lease company to allow slightly better grade tyres to get fitted. No alignment checks were ever carried out and the odd thing is it never happened again over the next 4 years and 100k+ miles.

Excellent, thanks Crasher.

... Back on topic, which spec of Antifreeze/coolant should I be looking to use if I went down the bagless route?

On mine it's just to the left of where the the max-min markers are etched on the tank. Easily visible when looking from the front of the car. 5Q0 141 407 with either a G or M suffix. G = with bag, M = without I believe.

Am I right in assuming that the tea bag can be got rid off altogether ( swap old mit silicat expansion tank for one without ) by using a better quality antifreeze solution? Having read the burst bag horror stories, I worry what the bill might be should my tea bag spring a leak.

Young ( < 5yr or younger ) high milers with full or near full service histories have always been my preferred option. Still something you'd be happy driving around in but cheaper to buy. Like you I intend to keep this one until it refuses to boot-up in the morning. My cam belt, water pump and idler were due to be changed when I bought it but that was a good negotiating tool to get the price down further. Have added another 65k miles since with only bills for consumables..... so far.

Some filling stations have it on draught, it was generally sub £1.00 per litre. I think it's meant mainly for HGVs as the pump is usually next to the the one set aside for them ( wider/larger lane ) but I've used them occasionally and saved a few quid. Don't know if there is a difference between standard and HGV Adblue but my car didn't seem to complain.

Looks great.

For my sins I've never replaced a set of discs in the 40 years I've been driving, only ever the pads. Still alive with no brake related incidents to report. That said, I do intend to change my rear discs & pads in the next month or so, mainly because I can now afford to. I saw that done on Wheeler Dealers, seemed to give a good result.

As far as I know that's what it's supposed to do. Once in close proximity it will unlock the door without the need to press the unlock button. Frustration for me is that it doesn't always work.