Johngerard

I used to clean a 2005 Polo throttle body but I did it in situ, remove air cleaner, switch on ignition and put a "brick" on the accelerator, this will/should open the throttle valve fully to allow gentle cleaning of most of the throttle body, the revs used be on the high side after the clean for a few miles of driving but used to settle back down to normal. I have VCDS but never used it after cleaning. Your 2004 Fabia may have still had a cable operated throttle valve but the idling is/was still done electronically, the motor on these used to fail occasionally, I replaced them on a few friends 2000 Boras with used ones, again (and I didn't have VCDS then), idling speed would normalize after a few miles. Also, as suggested above......"check the brake servo vacuum hose for splits or cracks at the junctions of the hard plastic sections"

You may have a sticking butterfly valve in the throttle body even though unlikely based on your posts, I had this in a 2000 Bora at ~ 60K miles due to carbon build up in the throttle body from the EGR which was causing all sorts of problems, I just removed the air filter and sprayed WD40 around the butterfly circumference (engine Off) a few times and problems disappeared.

They come with the umbrella as far as I know. I spoke to 3 Fabia drivers recently at the airport, one had a hired car and wasn't aware of the umbrella one way or the other but all 3 had Skoda stamped on the end and none would open when I pressed the release button after pulling out the umbrella a few inches from the dor to enable pressing it.

"Main Dealer" had a look a few days ago and said this idling speed is correct for my car. Had a quick look in VCDS (engine) Adaptation Mode and there doesn't seem to be any idle speed adjustment, I wouldn't have changed it in any case as its probably linked to emissions and GPF regeneration etc, car is running perfectly as is.

Photo 4 shows the umbrella in its open position, it only has to be pulled down to close it,

This is the umbrella that "came" with the car and it does NOT have Skoda stamped on it, so...either supplied with wrong type or the dealer has bins full of umbrellas for the differenr models and they had/have the incorrect type or the original unmbrella was swapped for the this one, maybe (but unlikely) during one of its three dealer service visits, it certainly wasn't the owner as he didn't even know ii came supplied with a umbrella. Photo1 shows the (30CM) umbrella stowed in the door, Photo2 shows it partially pulled out to access the release button, Photo3 shows that this handle WILL extend when the release button is pressed with the umbrella stowed or even if the umbrella is not in the car and the button is pressed, this is because this umbrella, when fully open does not lock in the open position, its just held open by the spring in the top (see Photo4, below), so the handle shot out, once, for whatever reason, the release button was pressed or whatever. I would strongly suggest that only OEM umbrells are used and/or ensure that to close it normally, a release button is, as normal, required to close it.

Fully agree, havn't seen my neighbour since, @Mag571 might inform if her/his umbrella is still fully functional now.

As a test, can you, remove the umbrella cover, undo the velcro strap, put the umbrella back in the door, then just pull it out just enough to press the release button, it will/should just extend a few inches which together with the few inches you pulled it out to gain access to the button, might prevent closing the door, not quite the same as the umbrella "opening" with a closed door but might throw up something. Same test can be done with the Kamiq.

I had also tried it inserted in the door tube with the fabric sleeve and the velcro band undone, same result.

Apoligies, its a year 2022 Kamiq, the neighbour didn't even know he had a door umbrella so it was never used. He just opened his own door from the outside and when it opened he found the handle up against I presume the rear passenger door frame which was closed, he then opened this door and the handle then pushed further back. It was retrieved with no damage, the repair man handed it back in the closed position and the neighbour just put it away somewhere in his house and will give me buzz when he finds it again. The door sleeve/tube is about 2 ins or so longer than the umbrella I have, I just inserted my umbrella far enough into the door to be able to press the release button, as expected, the handle only extended out by a few inches, this, with the umbrella cover on or off. The Kamiq umbrella should be ~ 300mm long when closed.

Photo of partially extended umbrella.

My umbrella might suggest that that could only happen if something broke inside the umbrella, photo1 shows the umbrella closed, photo2 shows it after pressing the release button, it can only extend a few inches as shown with cover on and even if the cover wasnn't on, the umbrella should still, IMO, be contained by the door plastic "tube", with the handle just extended by those few inches. I show a partiall extended umbrella in the next post (no room here) where you can see two cords extending to the umbrella top, maybe one of these gave way??

Neigbour with a Fabia Mk4 called me recently, his drivers door and the rear (right) passenger doors were partly open with what looked like a stainless steel rod jamming the two doors in their partly open/closed positions, to make a long story short, it was the door umbrella that apparently had shot out somehow or other and jammed the two doors, he had partially opened the back door to let his dog out I think and had let his own door partially open, or something like that. The car was still under warranty so the dealer sent someone out and he told me they found that the door umbrella had somehow popped out of its recess in the front door and jammed the two doors. Wonder does the 3 year warranty cover the umbrella as well!!. I very recently got a gift of one of those Skoda (doppler) umbrellas which the wife uses, it has a release button on the handle but I can't figure out how the umbrella could open with most of it still inside the door recess even with the button pressed, seems a unusual occurance, havn't seen any reference to this behaviour before anywhere.

Thought I'd post here since a lot of Fabia's will have the same engine. Above purchased new in January of this year and from day 1 idles at ~ 1000 RPM even when fully up to temperature. Just now, after a 10 mile trip, VCDS shows a idling speed of 996/1002 RPM, coolant temperature 92C, (Tacho display shows ~ 1100 RPM), all auxiliary electrical loads off including interior blower. A 2019 65BHP TSI Polo in the family idles at ~ 760/780 RPM and only increases to ~ 1000 RPM when the clutch is pressed before moving off. Is this high idling speed normal for a turbocharged TSI or should I get it checked out?

I must buck up with the brake luid, never changed it in any car, all new, in 63 years, at least 3 were in the family for over 20 years, had to renew a front brake cylinder in a 1980 Formel E Golf and NCT mandated two front flexible hoses in a 9N Polo, both at around 15 years old.

If, like my Polo, one has 3 years free servicing, is the above, or any other due items included in this, FOC?.

You can see from the R-1234YF tables that a ambient temp of 15C results in a pressure of 5.1 bar and the pressure is still 3.2 bar at 0C, not sure if those pressures are absolute but even if they are the gauge pressures are still 4.1bar and 2.2bar, included are a few readings from my 2026 Polo (manual A/C) just after switch on this morning. The pressure was ~ 6.2 bar before switching in the A/C. IDE00021 Engine speed 1003 /min IDE00198 Refrigerant pressure 11.0 bar IDE00967 Compressor current: specified value 0.415 A IDE00968 Compressor speed 1200 /min IDE00970 Coolant fan activation: actual value 37.2 % IDE00971 Coolant fan activation: specified value 36.0 % IDE00973 Outside temperature 19.5 °C IDE00974 Outside air temperature internally calculated 18.0 °C IDE00982 Temperature downstream of evaporator 1.8 °C IDE00987 Blower voltage: specified value 13.6 V (Full Speed, 4) IDE00989 Blower status active Refigerant Chart 2026 Polo.pdf

Get your M.Meter, change the positive lead to the 10A port, switch the selector switch to 10A. Disconnect the battery negative lead, clamp the positive M.Meter lead to the battery negative lead and the negative M.Meter lead to the (negative) battery post, you can now read off the battery draw down under various conditions, suggest you do it first with the car unlocked then with the car locked, allow ~ 5/10 minutes for each test, you can then remove various fuses to help track down the problem. Ensure you change the M.Meter lead back to its normal position and the selector switch to Off when finished.

My radio keeps changing over to this display regularly, press OK, then switch radio off, then on again, radio stations reappear, or, press menu then select radio, how do I stop this happening??.

My radio keeps changing over to this display regularly, press OK, then switch radio off, then on again, radio stations reappear, or, press menu then select radio, how do I stop this happening??.

I can't charge to 100% with my present charger, it trickle charges at 1 to 2A, then when the voltage reaches 14.4V it reduces to a measured 0.17A at a ~ 13.2V which I doubt very much would achievce "100%" SOC even after days on end charging. I'm quite happy now, so far, that once the engine is running then the battery isn't supplying any of the electrical load and that the BMS system will hopefully maintain between 75% ish and 85% SOC depending on trip times etc.

There seems to be a bit of a sea change in the charging pattern since I charged to 86% SOC and most certainly since last Saturday when I took the last VCDS scan at 78% SOC, its charging now (all short runs as per normal) more or less continuously at 14.4/14.8V and hasn't fallen below 12.8/13.1V at any time, will keep a eye on the DVD for a few more days before next scan. 19:14:28 26/04/2026 IDE00019 Voltage terminal 30 12.2 V MAS16744-IDE01836 12-volt battery-Battery current -7.064 A MAS16744-IDE01837 12-volt battery-Temperature of battery sensor 34 °C MAS16744-IDE01839 12-volt battery-Battery charge status 78 % MAS16744-IDE01841 12-volt battery-Battery internal resistance 7.2 mOhm MAS16744-IDE01842 12-volt battery-Usable battery charge 31 Ah MAS16744-MAS22232 12-volt battery-Battery aging: charge-related 96 % MAS16744-MAS22233 12-volt battery-Battery aging: performance-related 91 % MAS16745-IDE01843 Quiescent current management-Battery voltage at rest 12.5 V

Readings below after 2X8hour charging at 0.81/0.84A, I stopped charging when the charging current fell to 0.17A. One way or the other this BMS is behaving completely different to the 2019 one, it will go right down to zero charging, ~ 12.0/12.2V, for minutes, resulting in the electrical load being entirely supplied by the battery, it will then return to ~ 12.6/13.3V, at least enough to charge the battery at ~ 1.0/2.0A while supplying the electrical load, it does go to 14.8V ish on overrun but not continuously, unlike the other car (still in the family) that has NEVER fallen below 13.4/13.6V under any electrical load conditions and I have never observed the voltage at lower than 14.5V on overrun. VCDS IDE00019 Voltage terminal 30 12.5 V MAS16744-IDE01836 12-volt battery-Battery current -7.206 A MAS16744-IDE01839 12-volt battery-Battery charge status 86 % MAS16744-IDE01841 12-volt battery-Battery internal resistance 7.2 mOhm MAS16744-IDE01842 12-volt battery-Usable battery charge 33 Ah MAS16745-IDE01843 Quiescent current management-Battery voltage at rest 12.6 V MAS16744-MAS22232 12-volt battery-Battery aging: charge-related 92 %

All readings apart from VCDS are confirmed by the multimeter, I connected it in series with the charger to get the charging current, charging leads attached correctly, + to the + battery terminal, - to the earthing post.

Think I may be in trouble here, charging now very erratic (per DVD), it only occasionally goes to 14.7V on overrun and sits at 12.5V where normally the other car never went below 13.5V. This morning, on leaving the house the voltage stayed at 13.3V on a short 10 min trip but on the way home stayed at a constant 14.7V, before the return 10 min trip I took another set of readings and the SOC is now only 64%, the alternator seems fine as it was charging initially at 28.17A, and after the 10 minutes return, at 14.4A (&14.9V), usable battery charge is now down to 19AH. I am now charging the battery with my 5A charger, it just jumps up to 14.4V when switched on but then charges at a steady 0.81A at 13.5V, its doing this for one hour now so I will monitor the charging amps (via multimeter) regularly over the next number of hours. IDE00019 Voltage terminal 30 14.9 V MAS16744-IDE01836 12-volt battery-Battery current 14.433 A MAS16744-IDE01839 12-volt battery-Battery charge status 64 % MAS16744-IDE01841 12-volt battery-Battery internal resistance 7.4 mOhm MAS16744-IDE01842 12-volt battery-Usable battery charge 19 Ah MAS16745-IDE01843 Quiescent current management-Battery voltage at rest 12.3 V Stop/Start still working perfectly!!