Aj77

Carista.

Skoda Octavia 2007 fsi. Failed mot due to leak in front flexible section. Does this require a whole new exhaust or can you replace the flexi sectio alone?

Should it not be about 36mm, the bolt that secures the hub to the driveshaft?

Does anyone know the hub nut size and type in a Octavia 2007 1.6?

I had the plugs changed at the garage about a week ago.

I'm getting a misfire code for cylinders 1 and 3. Yesterday the emissions symbol was flashing on the dash and the car was shuddering badly in 5th gear. I suspect its the ignition coils. Are these straightforward to replace, just pop them off, disconnect and fit new coil?

Can't see the coil packs though.

Can anyone tell me where the spark plugs are on an mk2 2007 fsi 1.6?

I believe they're 16mm. https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/all-hand-tools/laser-spark-plug-spanner-t-bar-16mm-686737.html?istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istFeedId=367c5610-f937-4c81-8609-f84582324cd6&istItemId=xmlxxtmal&istBid=t&_$ja=tsid:|cid:11902546034|agid:113456751337|tid:pla-331014970735|crid:487900199209|nw:u|rnd:10046505597697047896|dvc:m|adp:|mt:|loc:1007345&gclid=CjwKCAjwoP6LBhBlEiwAvCcthBzv2TcHYDsD1ciUqhFnWqzTWT0skHneSDHRK3-9Mp51tZsEIJQdQhoCPMkQAvD_BwE

It's such an easy job cleaning it you just remove the pipe to the side of the egr valve and clean it. A 5 min job.

I never got round to doing it, it passed the MOT by replacing a drop link though its still rattling and knocking away like crazy underneath so I know it still needs done. I assume you'll have lower the subframe by probably using a couple of jacks then replace the whole roll bar assembly or just bushes. I'm still not sure if those bush brackets are welded or just need more access to pry them apart. A pain because it could have been a really quick job. Might want to get a garage to do it.

The mirror or whole assembly? If just mirror you can get thick double sided sticky pads from Halfords.

You'd save yourself a lot of hassle if you bought Carista, it will pinpoint exactly where the issue is, such as Rear Left ABS sensor faulty.

Firstly I'd advice you to buy Carista Bluetooth scanner, I got mine for £24.99 on Amazon. You have to subscribe for around $10 or so I believe to use the app or you can download a cracked APK online(apparently). The steering wheel or traction control can be easily fixed. You have to recalibrate the sensors. Here's how I did it. With the car off, turn the wheel fully to the left and hold for 5sec then, recenter, then turn the wheel fully to the right and hold for 5sec. Then drive around 10m is a straight line, stop and again turn the wheel fully to the left and hold for 5sec, centre the wheel then turn to the right and hold for 5sec then centre the steering wheel. This should clear the light. Now I'm pretty sure this is what I did but I also found this solution online so the extract process maybe slightly different For example I can't remember if it matters whether the car is started of not when you begin this procedure. You'll need Carista to clear the airbag light, the cheap scanner can't do this as they can't access the CANBUS modules. The light will come on if any of the yellow impact sensor plug are disengaged and re-engaged but if you haven't done this then there is likely a fault in the system somewhere and you won't be able to clear the light till you get it fixed. An ABS fault can cause a few other lights on the dash, I'd suggest you make sure each ABS sensor at each wheel is plugged in tight if this fails you've likely got a bad ABS sensor on one of the wheels.

Initially I noticed from carista that the rear left sidelights weren't working, they weren't, I try them about 15mins later and they are working, a few days later I notice that the rear left brake light isn't working also the side light half work or at least the bulbs are dim, I pulled them out to look and compared to the right side bulbs. Also I pulled the brake light and cluster bulbs out and they don't look burned through though the brake light filament is darkened a bit, that may just be wear and tear or the sign of voltage fluctuations. Obviously an electrical problem like a bad connection or fuse. Where would you start with this? The right rear side if fine.

These are 3 marking bands on this caliper O-seal. There are no instructions that came with repair kit. Do you know how to use these markings when fitting the O-seal?

So basically you need to remove the roll bar from the car first?

Yes I've removed drop link, it does give some movement but the bush seems to be contained in the bracket there's no obvious way out .

How do you get these bushes out, you can see a nut in the picture which I assumed is welded on, but maybe it can be removed. I already removed the 2 long bolts that hold this bracket onto the car underbody but the bush seems to be welded in, maybe you have to replace whole roll bar as one piece or do these nuts remove allowing you to replace the bush?

So why did somebody above say the tester wouldn't care.

I've filed the rusty lip also, I had this problem with my rear disks, pads, calipers, caliper pistons, there seem to be 2 sets of everything but close in size. I'm just going to have to buy another set or grind them down with sand paper or a grinder. But my question was, will the MOT tester fail it for having pads of different thicknesses on each side but that are all over 1.5mm.

Piston fully pushed back with G clamp, I spent a lot of effort making sure it was 100% back. Surfaces all cleaned with file and wire brush back to bare metal. The gap between pads is too tight to fit over rotor, there's not much in it though I tried hammering it in but it will end up breaking something like the rotor. I may buy a grinder and just grind them down but I just need to get through MOT first. EDIT: I think I see what happened, I had 54mm in my head as required pad thickness(which must be an exact size) and these pads are 54.8mm I must have assumed 54mm was rounded down but 2x0.8mm is 1.6mm so I think I'm 1.6mm over, hence I guessed 2mm originally. So I need to lose 1.6mm from them.

I tried to fit a new set of pads to front right but they are too tight, maybe 2mm or so. Dimensions, 146mm, 54.8mm, 19.5mm. The pads are still ok on front left so I thought I could swap one pad from left to right and mix and match pads on each side. I have MOT coming up and wondering if this will pass i.e having one new pad and one half worn pad on each side?

I see that. So I tried a 4.5mm Allen bit and it seemed a good fit however it may well be a torx of similar size and I may end up ruining the hole. Is there an obvious way to tell which bit type and size needed? I didn't actually try and remove the nut yet just tried a bit for size.

How do you remove this nut it just spins, there's a white plastic cover thing on the other end do I have to remove this first?