foru2justnv

It is easier coming out, it is a real jiggle to get back in.

Hi Traditional setup, seperate amp, wired up to the battery. 2 pairs of speaker cable tapped into rear outputs on back of head unit, running to the boot into a 2 channel line output converter. Both phonos into a mono sub amp driving a small 10 inch sub

Hi all Need help urgent so long story short i installed an amp with a small sub in the boot. I ran 2 pair of speaker wires connected to the back of the head unit which is a columbus. No sound system and checked in vcds speaker monitoring is switched off and and equalizer is linear. If i select my car for equalizer then it clips at just over 50% while playing about in the boot connecting the wires to a cheapo passive line output converter i noticed i was getting sound out from the sub by just connecting the 1st wire which i cant remember was positive or negative and it was loud, when i connected the other wire the negative sound level came down to normal. So i feel the sub isnt phasing right, its just not hitting the low notes quite right, much more of a mid bass sound. So my question is for any sound enthusiaists, does this sound like a short in the speaker supply wiring, that i managed to make subwoofer play on 1 single strand of wire? 2nd does anyone have the exact colours of the front speaker wires at the back of the head unit as someone suggested there maybe a bass limiter on the rear outputs, so may as well try a new pair of speaker wires and connect to fronts

I installed leds in my main beam, H3 from nighteye, bit fiddly to get them to seat as the clip is other side of bulb not the opening side, but it makes some 300% difference to light output and visibility. I have xenons already and they have dimmed down quite a bit so im awaiting led d1s bulbs from the net. A tip i learnt was to use a straw with cotton buds sellotaped in the ends then use window cleaner on the cotton buds and clean inside of projector when bulb is out which i will do before installing led d1s.

Hi all Need help urgent so long story short i installed an amp with a small sub in the boot. I ran 2 pair of speaker wires connected to the back of the head unit which is a columbus. No sound system and checked in vcds speaker monitoring is switched off and and equalizer is linear. If i select my car for equalizer then it clips at just over 50% while playing about in the boot connecting the wires to a cheapo passive line output converter i noticed i was getting sound out from the sub by just connecting the 1st wire which i cant remember was positive or negative and it was loud, when i connected the other wire the negative sound level came down to normal. So i feel the sub isnt phasing right, its just not hitting the low notes quite right, much more of a mid bass sound. So my question is for any sound enthusiaists, does this sound like a short in the speaker supply wiring, that i managed to make subwoofer play on 1 single strand of wire? 2nd does anyone have the exact colours of the front speaker wires at the back of the head unit as someone suggested there maybe a bass limiter on the rear outputs, so may as well try a new pair of speaker wires and connect to fronts

Hi all Skoda Superb 2012 170bhp. Ive heard liqui moly diesel purge is the best for an injector clean. Im getting slight vibration at idle intermittently and i know the injectors could definitely benefit a clean. I have attached a picture of my fuel filter setup, can someone in very simple terms explain which hoses need to go in the jamjar and which i need to loop into each other. I really don't want to end up with an air lock at the end

Hi I did look into that option but I installed a subframe mount insert some time ago and I hated it. It was a red one so the softest one but it was so harsh. Looked at psb option as well. Everything I read online suggested stick with rubber. I paid 11 quid each

Metal

Nope just a round bush tapered both sides

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254002526163?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ZXu1cQ8nQUO&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=baLARjzjS52&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Im a cabbie covering 60k a year and these have done me well for last 2 years. Originally i ordered 6000k but found them too blue and poor road light. Messsged him and he sent out 4300k which i find to be the best.

About to press bushes into these arms. Might be a stupid question but which way out would i press these. Looking at the pic top down or from underneath Before you all jump on me with buy the arm complete. I have a mate with a garage who lets me use it, so i have access to all tools and press. Was really hard to find a set of decent lemforder bushes otherwise everywhere selling crap ones already pressed in.

I do have vcds, please explain. I was more worried about the clutch and gearing. But ive always wondered how others vw seat with the same engines and gearbox have bigger tyres

Penny washers

225 40 18 although the correct size from factory is just too low a profile for this car. I bought a set of 16s and went down to 205 55 16. The difference in ride is night and day. I know it looks crap compared with 18s but noise and consumption are so much better. Ive just refurbished my 18s and will be putting 225 45 18 on. Meanehile i will be changing to 215 55 16 which will look and ride even better

Common problem, i have done mine, i didn't replace, i just used metal penny washers on them and they have been fine for over 50k

Mmh, as far as i know if your rears are good thats what they align the fronts to. Mine ive just changed rears arms so will need to do all 4, but they always start on the rear, get them in spec then adjust front to back

Software train?

Anyone know what the latest update is for this unit, and if any benefits to be had from upgrading from hardware version h11 Software version 5238 Map version 8195. Also there is an option to downgrade built in and if that gets me full brightness which i would have lost when upgraded to 5238 as that came with automatic light dimming as opposed to built in control i might even do that. But if anyone knows of what the latest upgrade is and gains? @Rustynutspls chime in

I do know from previous alignments that the off side that was broken was the side that was ok. They always mentioned near side as being out which funnily enough opened ok. I had gave it a good soaking a few days prior thinking they would only open that side. The off side was 1.2 before the nut busted. New arm from euros starline i think or optimal. They had an eccentric bolt from before. But now both sides out. On the new arm its moves freely in and out just not enough to come in to spec. The near side was tight to move but even that not in spec. Ive got some new springs on the way. Im gonna out them in and see what happens. Just changed the rear drop links as well. Camber was ok on both sides, although the nut for the adjustment looks like its completely rusted solid and a pig to get to.

The cambers are both within spec. Its the toes. It goes all the from 13 down to 1.8 then back to 13 once the bolt has been turned full 360

Really hope someone can help. Changed balljoints and complete tie rods at the front. Went for an alignment and the bloke said we can do the rears so i said crack on. 5 minutes laters he broke the eccentric bolt. New arm and bolt fitted. I was watching the whole time and now he cant get the toes in spec on both rears. The best they would come down to was 1.8 which was still red and out if spec. What can i do to get this sorted. I can see the wheels moving freely in and out when he turns the bolt but not enough to bring it in within spec

Anyone managed to programme drl's to stay on with headlights, i have vcds checked through options and haven't worked it out yet

Personally i think its a poor design, i think a plastic nut and bolt with washers would have been a better idea and more sturdy

It is better to put them in first and spread the tangs a little for it to stick in there, or you could improvise this time with something like superglue or putty etc and deal with it properly if it fails later on. Now you will have to try and get it in and hold with your finger whilst inserting pin. It shouldn't fall through, but if it does then thats when i would improvise. But be sure it is seated because if it loosens and pops out later it will be a new regulator by the time you find out.