foru2justnv

No definitely don't do that. Before installing you have to set window up to have access to the locking pins. If you move the regulator up or down you mush the cables inside the regulator mechanism. Once the pins are on you can move window up or down to align the screws to secure regulator metal sheet. Access is tight

I actually added sound deadening and used lots of furniture feet stickers, in places doubling them. My car was suffering from bad panel rattle, in fact still am despite my best to deaden everything. Its easy once you know how, i managed to destroy 1st regulator but pushing glass down. As long as the pins holding glass are in place properly will be good as new

Hi Mine was just a battery in the end. If you look down by the air filter on top of starter motor there is a stud, i just put it on there with a 13mm nut

Some people don't. I always do pairs

Most metallic knocks will be drop links. Main culprits are top mount balljoints and drop links. For what its worth the lower arm is easy to do and will need doing if it hasn't been done

It was the balljoints in the end. Lasted only 3 weeks made by moog

Update Changed lower arms today. Made a huge difference on a decent road but if you find a rut or dropped manhole im still getting a clunk. Im now really confused. The siund is at the top so i dont think it's the anti roll bar bushes, (but need someone to tell they can be changed and there is an easier way now that i have the bushes). Im gonna change the shocks (but really dont want to have to) but anyone think it could be them.

Hi all. Just changed both top mounts, drop links, tie rod ends and ball joints. I still have annoying knocking and clunking sound. Been over everything double checking but still get a clunk. Going over speed bumps is fine, it when you have a rut in the road its a nasty clunk thud. Checking anti roll bar bushes last night after ordering new bushes, but its a sealed bracket type stupidly meaning you have to change whole bar unless someone can tell me otherwise or a short cut. Bushes didn't show any visible signs and couldn't find play in them. Only thing left is lower control arm. Can it really be that. I have ordered arms anyway but last night couldn't find any significant play in them, but the way it sounds i was expecting to find them broken Any help will be much appreciated

No because the stud pattern is different as well. You need 112pcd. Anything over 205 55 16 rubs as well

Mine is 170 manual too. I have 16s. Just yesterday thought about going back to 18s for the looks but the advantages of 16s just outweight. Looking at old receipts and previous owner was changing front 18 inch tyres every 15,000 odd. So far I've done 25k on 16s and still about 4mm left I went with 7inch wide rim with et49 eun 205 55 16

These are hids and not led. They wont last long. They are not suitable for main beam. They take 5 seconds or so to warm to full brightness and not instant. But yes they will be brighter

Before mounting. Also in the pics its hard to tell, what do you say the difference in light output?

Any pics of the bulbs

Put a link or pic of them pls

How much difference in light output?

Same engine, and just started getting the clutch release bearing noise, how much were the parts and labour for the clutch and flywheel? I changed down to 16" wheels and can only say wth were 18s on there in the first place. If i do put my 18s back maybe next summer im gonna up the tyre size to 225 45 18, 40 profile is just a suspension killer on this car

Eagerley awaiting the results. I have been asking for a while bit no response. I think ebays novsight or nighteye is the best kit, but im worried about fitting as the main beam doesn't have much space for the fan.

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/e44/ I bought this one cheap enough and powerful enough for the car. And this volt display

Im wanting to put h11 leds in foglight and h3 main beam, but haven't had a single decent response of gains and fitting issues. All i got was it failing an mot if i did so.

P21w also known as 382. Can someone put pics up with leds installed. Is there much of a difference?

If it was doing this before the switch change it will almost definitely be a broken wire in left hand side of glass under the trim

Anyone changed to led's on theirs. Looking at nighteye or novsight, Any massive gains and fitment issues

Hi all wabted to reignite this post. Have bi xenons in 2012 superb. Although happy with the main beam has anyone actually installed led bulbs for the main beam. Was thinking of buying some nighteye h3 leds. Any issues with fitment and can anyone confirm the gains

Mine was just simply a battery. Bought a varta 77ah 780cca battery for £77 ish quid off tayna batteries. Spot on since

Did you wind the caliper back in fully? If so and its easy then you shouldn't be experiencing sticking. I did on my last change experience it very hard therefore leqrning that my tool was crap hence the advice on the tool. In the end i held a spanner on the rewind thing while my son used a breaker bar and socket on end of rewind tool and wound piston back. Once wound back i would pull handbrake a few times to pull piston out, then apply a bit of spray grease under the seal and wind back in an out a few times. If not the caliper on fleebay is not expensive