UndertheRadar

Brilliant. I had confirmation my Zeniths are on their way to me for delivery tomorrow, so will await your report. they seem to be a brilliant all round winter, so my hopes are high. 👍🏻

Ok. In sport the parameters are adjusted to allow gear changes to be quicker or more aggressive as such. You could try having someone like revo or similar remap the dsg so drive mode is adjusted.

Seems to be some on that popular sale site at the minute in chrome, if your wrapping.

Have you considered having them wrapped in black instead?

I've had 44mpg from mine on a good run. Today during shorter stints to drop off at school and run round the town for shopping, the old pig managed a whopping 25mpg.

I find it to be just an all round better and more even job without the risk of edges on the rear of the handle.

Does it do the same thing when you run the box in sport or is it just doing it in drive?

I’m sure I’ve seen a holder that fits on the back of the centre armrest to hold an iPad etc, to facilitate the use of it for both rear passengers.

The internet seems to be full of reviews stating it as a complete waste of time and money. I've seen these type of things before and generally the marks are mostly still there once the product is wiped away from the panel. A good microfibre applicator with something like Rupes medium or the new DA fine would be a far better solution for this type of thing. It would also be just a simple case of applying it to the panel/scuff by hand with the applicator and wiping it off with a cloth. It will leave no dust or residue afterwards either.

In my experience the VAG stuff is no better than anything else that you are considering. Some people just like a certain product or manufacturer, and have this idea in their head thats its more impressive or better quality than the nest item or manufacturer etc. An example of which would be manufacturer reliability ratings. The top german stuff that everyone thinks is impressive and want to be seen in, is generally in the top ten most unreliable vehicles on the road. So most folks that buy them and pay through the nose for them, then don't like to admit that they break a lot. This gives a lot of people a false impression of superior quality and therefore keeps the price high when purchasing said vehicles. Its more about image and marketing these days. A transit that would cost around 10k-12k for instance would cost 17k-20k for the same age and mileage transporter (roughly). The Vauxhall vans give bother reasonably often and if you look at one make sure the gearbox is ok in all gears and electrics are all working (think engine sensor issues). Older transits gave bother with corrosion at the rear, injector seals leaking (you'll smell it) and pump sensors. VAG stuff gives bother with injectors, rings, shafts, window regulators to name a few off the top of my head, that I've fixed recently. You make your choice, you drive it and you fix it when it breaks. Just buy the best van you can find within budget thats recently PSV'd (no guarantee) and working properly and you'll be fine.

Hard to hear on my phone, but is it like a heat shield metallic sound? Could be a DMF issue.

I’m in the £475 category unfortunately. Although my last motor was five hundred and something, so it’s actually come down. 😄

Firstly, Avoid the Vag stuff at that price. It'll break your heart and your wallet. They hold a ridiculous price for no apparent reason that i can fathom compared to other vans the same type. If, and thats a big if, you can find an older Toyota Hiace thats still solid enough and in reasonable condition, id say thats your best best. After that i'd buy a transit thats just been PSV'd and hope to get the year out of it, seeing as its probably just been welded anyway. lol. Back arches around struts if your interested and want to check before a purchase!! My brother has a merc vito, and its hard on parts and expensive for them to, and the gearbox is terrible. Its going early next year unless he throws the head up before that, for a newer 2018/19 transit.

Depends entirely on your circumstances. If you can afford to run the 272 easily and without compromise, then obviously i'd buy it. But if your getting no company allowance at all and given your 18k a year mileage, i don't think by any stretch of the imagination, that the 190 diesel yoke is in any way a bad choice. I haven't looked, so don't know if the 190 diesel is in a band that will cause you issues with fee's in certain city emission areas or the like. We don't have any "zones" over here (yet!!).

If you take it to a paint shop, get them to paint it off the car, instead of attempting to mask that area off and paint it. It looks like its down to the plastic as best as i can tell from pic? You could also try pricing a genuine colour coded handle. I sometimes find myself surprised by how reasonable some bits are (not often though). My last Merc had keyless handles that just loved failing. Genuine Mercedes colour coded handles were £125 each. The power steering pump was £700 and the rack was £2400 among a long list, but at least the bloody handles were reasonable. lol.

I have a race glaze ceramic on my wifes's motor. It was applied about 2yrs ago and is still showing no signs of wear. I use fallout remover regularly on the car, along with a light clay a few times since as well. it's also been machined very lightly with Rupes Uno protect on a white finishing pad twice since as well. Compared to that id think your coating should survive without to much hurt. You can top the coating up with something like Turtle wax Ceramic spray or the like as its just an si02 based product afterwards if you wish.

My point explained perfectly to the OP.

Absolutely correct. In most cases they hand you out Castrol oil in some form or another, or similar, and the likes of a Mann filter etc. But buying it direct from them for a couple of years while the vehicle is under warranty leaves them with no wiggle room, which was my reason for the above response. Wouldn't be the first time a vehicle has been turned down for a warranty claim in the workshop due to something silly, like no oil spec or grade listed on the docket. Also seen them refuse an engine repair and blame it on an "aftermarket" filter. I suppose it differs by manufacturer, but a lot of them will use any excuse to turn warranty claims down to save money. DPF's spring to mind. A lot of claims turned down as they said it could have been the incorrect oil grade used. No misleading intended, probably should have just explained myself a bit better. lol.

The garage you use needs to be vat registered and you need to buy the oil and oil filter from skoda, to be able to show that you used genuine parts and manufacturer recommended oil. You could try another dealer as well. my local main dealer charges £130 for the same job.

Just wondering if anyone has tried any of the new graphene coatings yet, and has any opinions compared to a ceramic or even a sealant or wax, reference application and results?

Some of the launch or Autel diagnostics are reasonable enough if you get them second hand.

I'd say getting a paintshop to do it properly or ordering a new handle in the correct colour are your best options, depending on the quote to paint. You could try 5000 grit paper with plenty of soapy water/lube, but from experience those handles are just about covered in paint and no more. You could end up making it look much worse very easily, especially on an edge like that.

Sounds like safe mode/limp mode. locks in lower gear to protect the box from harm. Sometimes caused by a sensor or solenoid issue. If so it will be in the stored faults file when codes are ran, even though it reset after a restart.

If your only keeping it for a short while it’s not really a massive concern. The front of the FL model does look smarter IMO with the new led front fogs so if your in any doubt, just wait for one to turn up. the intelligent lights use an ordinary fitting with motorised units to adjust beam spread away from oncoming traffic. Whereas the newer matrix use a number of LED’s and shut down individually to blank off or shade a certain part of the road to avoid blinding oncoming traffic. The issue we are finding with the newer led systems is that the individual led’s are packing in quite often, resulting in a new headlight unit being required. Although in my case the adjustment motor quit with the same outcome. So it’s probably a case of swings and roundabouts really. I hadn’t really thought about colour differences between the models as I always buy silver, and preferred the better spec in the L&K, but again think the sport line looks better. still deciding whether to black wrap the chrome trim on mine or not, as to me that’s the main visual difference between them that I like. not sure the Alcantara seat would go well with kids, and how long before it started to bobble and annoy me.

Thank you. The standard 18” size I think is 235/45/18, and a lot more available than the 19” rims that came on the car, hence the second set and going full winter rather than all season. Yes, I have a Dunlop winter on my wife’s car and it has been a fantastic tyre. I was going on tyre version based on testing figures, and some of the older tyres scored quite a bit higher than their newer counterpart. Probably wouldn’t be far wrong with most of the “better” manufacturers.