UndertheRadar

Ah, Ok. I thought you had carried out the service yourself. If you use some of the oil checker sites like Castrol, it will give you an exact amount for service or dry fills.

Hard reset should be holding the power button down for 10sec or so. Quite common issue on VW vehicles. Sometimes solved with a software update.

The boot light should pop out and turn into a torch. If DSG then it should have been serviced and if 4x4 so should the haldex. I always service my Air con every 3-4yrs as well. Don’t assume a full service history will have had these done if fitted. Rear discs wear prematurely as well, so need checked also.

Did you start the engine to fill the filter housing before you checked your oil level when you serviced it? If not, that would have dropped your level once you did.

Mine has an issue while using Wide open throttle positions, Where i get a prominent squeal from the N/S/F of the vehicle. This seems to have a knock on affect on whether i make my own tea or not. Actually, NOPE, Nothing i can think of changing.

At 4yrs old the haldex and DSG should have both been serviced, regardless of mileage. Check with dealer while they have it. The other thing to check is your brakes. If one of the callipers is sticking or seizing once warmed up a bit, it will cause the issue you describe. Take the car for a drive, or until the vibration starts and see if one of the wheels is a lot warmer to touch than the rest of them. I’ve also replaced air con pumps causing vibration due to being seized, and sitting wouldn’t have helped it either. the list goes on, but they should be able to source it when you leave it with them. best of luck!!

I ordered the Zeniths from Caffyns on Thursday at £190 a wheel. That way I have a genuine rim with no ET issues. Just need to source tyres no when they arrive.

Modern diesels don’t like sitting about. Without a test drive it’s hard to narrow the area down. Could be an injector issue. Could be a shaft or joint issue. Could be a haldex issue. Does the vibration change if you pull the dsg back into sport or change down a gear when the vibration starts. is it the road surface seeing as the other vehicle you had did the same thing. I would have added flat spotted tyres, but you’ve changed them already. could also be a shock absorber fault, or if fitted, could be in sport setting. Try comfort to see if it changes. Best to let the main dealer look at it and see what they come up with before you panic too much.

That’s the Merc rims after being done to cover the diamond cut finish and the last one is a set of winters I run on my wife’s ST to replace her standard 19’s. They were powder coated about two weeks ago.

I always powder coat in a heavy metallic silver. I don’t like black wheels and diamond cut needs redone every year as even one winter causes blistering and corrosion problems regardless of coating or not. I’ve only just ordered a set of 18” Zeniths to use as winters and have them coming in platinum. I had a set of 22” ML63 rims that I could only find in grey/diamond cut. I had them powder coated as well. Might have some pics here somewhere.

Had a similar fault in mine shortly after purchase. They replaced the entire headlight unit as it had a motor fault and shut the bulb down as it wasn’t aimed correctly. If it’s the same problem then yours will be holding a code.

That looks very smart. Health to enjoy it.

Thank you. I’ve just heard back from the retailer I bought the play 5 from. It does indeed have a faulty wireless board, which turns out to be very common apparently in that Gen2 version. They are replacing it with another one, and have ordered it in for me. maybe something for others to be aware of if buying second hand, as it would be a very expensive brick to own.

I’m sure come Thursday you’ll have a smile like a Cheshire Cat, and have many happy years ahead with your new motor. The mondeo’s are a great tool as well. My brother had one for 7yrs without one spot of bother. He’s driving a kuga now for a few years with the same results. my wife had an S Max for 8yrs fault free and is now in a Focus ST estate, which had a new electric rack fitted within a few hundred miles of being new. It to has then been fine ever since. I think Skoda is pretty much on the same level for reliability. Everything can have a fault, it’s how it’s dealt with that determines your own personal view of the vehicle/manufacturer.

The mirror cover trim and the top of the door panel were the cause of my vibration on the passenger side. Silicon spray, Mr sheen type spray will see if it takes it away or not before you pad between them to fix it. Speaker cover in centre of dash for Canton system was another on mine and the seat belt adjuster on drivers side as well. The rear seats were knocking in the back of my estate was another issue over bumps. Cured by “adjusting” the striker with a hammer to stop latch slap. Also, the amount of times I’ve fixed a rattle by removing customers keys from the glovebox and sunglasses from the overhead console would surprise you. 😄

You can look up vehicle information on some of the car apps and not sure if the government site tells you drivetrain or not.

Look underneath from behind and if you don’t see a diff and rear drive shafts it’s 2wd.

You only have to pretend to bounce. 😉

This is mine. The hole the torch is on is an emergency release. You can just about make out the yellow lever inside the hole in the second photo that needs to be lifted with something like a screwdriver as already suggested.

😡 that’s just bad manners and uncalled for. My wife likes Fords. The sales person we’ve used last few time’s is brilliant, and part of the reason we go back again. He’s as eager to help after the sale as he is before he even gets it. Quite rare these days. If they don’t ring tomorrow morning, I’d ring them and ask for the dealer principle and tell them you’ve had no correspondence and you’d like to cancel the deal as you’ve lost faith in them as a company. Then wait and see what they offer you for your inconvenience and how well your car comes prepped for you then. you could pull mud flaps or mats or a free service from the DP, but the salesman won’t care or play ball.

Now, when I say “might”, I’m kinda in the denial stage at the minute, and when I say “touch”, I have to refurb rims in full sets so they all match, and repaint bumpers when they have more than 12 stone chips. Mainly because 12’s a nice even number. i wish I was joking to. Think I’m getting to the next stage and realising I need help. 😄 hope your motor is well sorted this time and your very happy with it. Of course we are going to need a pic of it!!

Most common issue in most cars if motor trying is either the latch is stuck or if the motor operates a rod to the latch, it can pop out of the plastic clip. Try thumping the cover near the latch from inside while someone operates the button from outside, in the hope the latch just needs some help.

I’ve never bought any of it and never will. That’s all a commission adding tactic in my opinion. I also wouldn’t allow their spot repair people anywhere near my car paintwork, and couldn’t cope with the results of a Part or face repair on a wheel either. I might have a touch of OCD though, so probably best to judge it yourself. 😂

I came from a V8 ML to the Superb. Mine also has 19’s fitted and I’ve noticed it being a bit noisier than the Mercedes. My ML had 22’s on it, so I’m assuming the Superb just needs an added bit of sound insulation here and there to help it out. I’ll be fitting 18’s soon with winter tyres, but I cant honestly see that bringing it close to the silence the Mercedes has. On a side note, the Superb doesn’t break down twice a week and cost the same as a small foreign island to repair, so I’m just going to put up with the extra noise.