UndertheRadar

A heated steering wheel. One of those things you never thought you needed until you had it. Unless it’s a Range Rover, in which case, you have it, and you need it, But it doesn’t work.

I couldn’t see the marks on the photos except for the one on the roof. It looks exactly like a wash mark, which I’m hoping it is, as a DA with 1500 or lighter should shift it. Then you can get your car coated and enjoy it without any further hassle or waiting.

Dealer. Detailer. first one wasn’t to touch it. second one was. If first one didn’t touch it and second one did, then the Detailer put them there with a poor wash process and then highlighted them. IMO.

Some good deals on outgoing unit at the minute. Think last I saw was £499 down and £499 monthly for an M2.

Not be that long before the new front becomes the Norm and no one even thinks twice about them.

Just heard back that the B6’s are out of stock and quoting 6-8 weeks for delivery. So may be after Christmas before I get them and fit them.

To clear it up. Im agreeing with you!! I see daily what they share and don’t share across not only platforms but completely different manufacturers. I think it’s fantastic that people like ourselves who don’t like a certain aspect of the standard setup have so much choice as to how we go about improving it. And that’s a bonus, as a lot of other manufacturers are very limited for aftermarket choice. All I’m saying is, I may have read the post in question to have a different meaning, whether it was accurate or not. On a different note, I have my friend trying to source me a set of B6 damptronic’s which I’m going to try with original springs, so I can retain normal ride height for now. I’m not sure whether to do that first before the roll bar and see how it drives then, or just fit it at the same time I change the shocks.

Just to play Devils advocate here for a second, but I read this post as meaning, The superb is a great car and if the only thing that was cause for concern was a great chassis (MQB) then Skoda have done a fantastic job. The second paragraph I read as meaning, it’s more down to the fact that they’ve used a set of suspension units that are more rated for a VW Golf than they are for a Skoda Superb given they are the same basic units. Therefore they would be underrated for a Superb sized vehicle. Maybe the post lost some meaning in translation?

I think I read someone had bought them over as a going concern, but that was a month or more ago as they put the company up for sale basically during lockdown. Most tuning company’s give a warranty of sorts with their maps against damage caused by the uprated parameters.

This is all well and good, But I was out at the weekend and managed to average 47 miles to a banana.

It seems I’m not alone in thinking the standard suspension is terrible at controlling the body of the car to an acceptable and sometimes safe level. So I thought I’d start a thread to see if people who have changed their suspension, whether it be shocks or springs or anti roll bars etc, would chip in and state what they have replaced, what with, and the outcome. Im sure this would be helpful for anyone thinking of upgrading, whether it be DCC or standard suspension. This is not a war to be fought over whether it’s good or bad or if people are expecting to much from it. Just a central feed of information that can be accessed easily in one place to assist people with making an informed choice. cheers folks.

Maybe need to start a thread to hear from folks who have changed their suspension units, so we can have all the opinions from those that have done it for DCC and non DCC in the one place. So people fed up with the banging and carrying on, who are thinking of sorting their own out can see who’s changed what, and what with, and get first hand experience of the results. I’ll start one soon if it’s not done, but I need to feed the kids first. 😂

Has to be a Landrover. The only vehicle I’ve ever PDI’d that needed an engine😂. The full fat Range Rover is one of the nicest places to do miles in though. You just need B*ll* of steel. no matter what it is, I hope you enjoy it and it all goes well.

Is it a Urus with a suspension lift?

It was tested on a heavy duty 4wd RR. The boys mainly only use it for checking and setting up big Jap builds. 1000bhp Supra’s and really heavily modified Evo’s etc.

Nearly 😄. It was Mercedes’ 4.0V8 twin turbo diesel unit. Ran 306bhp and 700Nm standard.

It’s hard to beat a big chunk of lazy low down torque. My last diesel had just under 400bhp and 1017Nm of torque.

I’ve a set of 18” winters in the garage to fit to mine soon, so I’ll see how much of a difference that makes with more give in the side wall to aid the shocks. just trying to reason why some are so bad over certain surfaces and yet working correctly and without fault as the OP asks. An example of this would be, I drove over a repair the other day in traffic. Doing about 55mph (NSL zone). It’s a repair I’ve driven over without even noticing it was there several times in my wife’s ST estate (not the most forgiving suspension). My Superb reacted like I’d just hit a brick. I thought for sure the wheel was destroyed. The bang was that bad the glovebox thumped open. I went back to look as I thought the repair had opened up again without me noticing. It hadn’t. I can see another type of DCC shock in my near future as these ones just ruin the entire drive some days.

My wife’s previous car was a Titanium X Sport Ford S Max. It drove absolutely nothing like a people carrier. It cornered way better than its size would have you believe, and had an isofix point for each of the three seats in the middle row.

Do any of those that find their suspension acceptable have 19” factory fitted wheels, or are the folks that don’t find it harsh and slow to respond to dips and bumps running factory fitted 18’s or even 17’s by any chance. My suspension is in perfect working order as specified by Skoda on leaving the factory. I’ve stripped it and tested it, both on bench and on plates while fitted. It’s just too slow to respond and too soft. we would have taxi drivers requesting their shocks changed quite regularly on low mileage cars for this very reason on non DCC vehicles as the bang has scared passengers when the fronts run out of travel on minor surface undulations (road repair not 100% level etc) Just wondering as 90% of the time, the question is raised on cars sporting larger wheels.

Any chance you could allocate the function to position 3 in the mean time to try it out?

I’ve a friend who’s an agent for both Bilstein and H&R. I keep meaning to get him to price me up the bits I need, but keep forgetting given other priorities that keep taking over at the minute.

Next thread title will be “When you change your 272 for this blue one, and half the forum loses its sh#t as to why”. I hope to God it’s not nearly 40 pages long though!!

Mine has DCC and is exactly the same. It’s an absolutely “shocking” setup. In saying that, the rest of the car is great and otherwise goes and drives fine, so I’m looking into replacing the struts but retaining the original springs to see how that goes. Might replace the rear anti roll bar at the same time. Don’t really want to start into front mounts incase it adds to much vibration.

You could use something like, but not limited to, Aquasteel. give the bottle a good shake, and apply to the stone chip using a toothpick. Allow 24hrs and apply a touch up to the area using a fresh tooth pick. Let the paint harden and sink in and apply another coat using the same method.