SomethingSuperbly

Did that really all fit in there? I've read that you can can fit bodies in the trunk of the Superb. 🤣 Though for real it's a shame you can't fit a full size spare wheel without cutting up some trim or having the floor lift up.

Really interest accounts from everyone on their battery. I noticed my battery getting low from the previously mentioned warning you get "Manoeuvre braking currently unavailable." when you start up the engine. I've also been using the heated windscreen, AC and heating on full blast during the cold weather, that and the infotainment screen being on, dashcam powered from the USB port and then a relatively short journey all drained the battery. I've since turned off the interior lights, plugged the dashcam to an external battery back, turned off the infotainment and driven for longer (one night I just decided to do a long lap along the south coast) and it's since improved the battery charge. I no longer get the "Manoevure braking currently unavilable." warning. One other thing I should mention, I always turn off the Auto Stop/Start system when I start up the car and rarely use it, though I'm still contemplating whether I should get the Auto Disable Stop/Start module from overseas....

In the past few days I purchased a Noco Genuis 5 trickle charger and the Noco Boost Plus portable jump starter. My car's battery is about 5 years old and still going strong, though for a while it had a low charge (the "Manouveur braking currently unavailable" sign). Hoping it keeps going strong.

If I were you I'd choose the higher specification Passat especially if it's for the same price or cheaper than the Superb with less specification. Personally I prefer the look of the Superb pre-2019 facelift and would pick the Passat if I came to your choice. Something about the small LED foglights didn't sit well with me, so it's nice that the Passat has the larger shaped foglights. I also also add that the more models that are sold there, the more spare parts should be available though touch wood you'd never have to go for any major repairs like that.

Update on the situation. Couldn't get it opened but had it taken to the stealership. Good news is that it's been replaced. Bad news is that they did a bad job of replacing it. I imagine they used the same method listed by @MartiniB : In the process you have to damage the holes to get to the release clips. They had then chipped the paint on the upper part of the door lip trying to get the fuel cover out, then broke the clip on the bottom left side of the flap. Then the excess drain pipe tube was sticking out and needed reseating, not only that they had dented the main body and scratched the paintwork around the fuel flap... I'm now hoping that the boot trim has been correctly reconnected. 🙃 Well at least now I know how it works. The scratches have been polished out though I might need to some touch up paint for the chipped part. The dent I was able to push back out from the inside with the handle end of a small screw driver. I might try and reglue the clip but it's probably not worth the effort. I just don't understand how some dealerships handle customer cars like this.

Thanks all for the input. Fuel flap still locked at this time. I tried locking and unlocking the car earlier on, and I can hear actuator 'clicking' near the fuel flap but I still can't get it to open. I'll try again but it's too late now to call the dealer. It does seem like a known issue (even from a search on here). Interesting posts, I was actually looking for a emergency pull cord but it seems like the Superb does not have this feature. I wonder if it's possible to retrofit the actuator with the pull cord?

Hi all, So it seems like the fuel flap on my Superb (Mk 3 saloon) is stuck and won't open, something I found while I was cleaning my car. I've tried to press and hold the flap in for about 30 seconds, then locking and unlocking the car but that didn't work. I've also tried to use a small plastic wedge tool but I don't want to force it open in case I break anything plastic on the inside and instead use it to create more distance and press into the flap but that still didn't work. Does anyone have any suggestions before I take it into the dealers?

Hey guys, so today I managed to clear out the blockage on my Superb. I wonder if this would be of help to you guys? I did come across some brown rusty looking residue while clearing it out. Let me know if you need any help if you're going to attempt this.

Hi all, So recently I've been having some trouble with my rear wiper washer jet, when I first got the car (second hand) it could spray water just fine but recently it's only dribbled out until it finally got blocked up (despite taking it to be checked during its MOT where they said it was fine, and once again when it was finally blocked). The dealer said it was a result of some corrosion and might not be covered under warranty and that I had to wait for a reply from Skoda... 🙄 I asked for photos but they couldn't give any, saying that there was a blockage somewhere in the rear wiper motor unit after testing and attempting to clear the blockage (or at least that was the gist of it). I wasn't really happy with their service, the technian left clips unclipped, one was bent, a plastic tab with a clip had completely come off the backing from the trim and one of the rubber seals wasn't properly refitted and sealed. Suprisingly there was a recent post on here on another hatch experiencing the same issues, so it seems like this is not an uncommon issue but now I've had my hand at it and sorted it out. 😁 There are a few things you'll need to have and check: 1. The two washer pumps work - when you push or pull the washer stalk you should be able to hear two different motors working away. 2. That the washer pipe hasn't burst/split - if it has you'd probably have noticed some wet patches somewhere in the car or at least heard water being jettisoned. 2a. Likewise you should check to see if the blockage isn't in the pipe, but this fix only focuses on the end of the pipe. 3. The rear wiper motor works. 4. The rear washer jet nozzle hasn't been blocked - this would be easiest way to clear the blockage, just lift the cap and pull the nozzle off. You can easily wash or clear it with a needle pin, brush or with a water flosser. A few tools you'll need: You'll need a trim removal bar, something plastic that can help give you leverage while removing the rear clips. A long toothpick and some palstic trimmer line - the bottom washer hole is about 15mm wide whereas the top one is a lot thinner, a bit larger than a toothpick. A fine needle pin for the jet nozzle A water flosser - you could use a pressure washer but I think you'll have trouble directing and controlling the water into such a small pipe. Towels, a bucket and maybe a second pair of hands. Once you've checked and gathered all that, I have a good suspicion that the blockage is in the same place where I had mine. The blockage appears in the right angle part washer pipe of the rear wiper motor. Firstly you'll need to remove the entire rear door trim (video guide here) - start with the interior hatch button from the sides, it'll fall out and this is where you'll need to push the clip in at the top of the connector to remove it. It's a good idea to turn off the interior lights and be aware of where the exterior rear door latch button is just in case you activate the automatic lift by pushing up or down on it. Next remove the two rubber stops by simply unscrewing them. Now this is the hard part, trying to remove the trim from the clips. I'd start near the latch and work where it's loose. You'll also need to remove the first three clips of the side pillars, the best way to remove them is to grab the edge, pull them down and inwards until the clips come loose. You don't have to remove them all, maybe two or three clips so that you can remove the rear trim. So now that you have the whole trim off you have the rear wiper motor exposed and now you'll need to locate the washer pipe (the ribbed pipe lined below). To remove it, you'll need to twist the white locking piece. Remember the the way it goes on, it should lock into place and that the black rubber ring is still inside the pipe. If you have a pipe cleaner you can clean the immediate area of the pipe or you can even try and use the washer jet, just make sure you have a bucket (though it'll only work if the car thinks that the rear hatch is down). Make sure you reconnect this properly, if you don't put this securely back on the pipe could come loose and spray inside the boot. With that done you'll now have access to the blocked area. I would also remove the plastic nozzle jet on top too, just lift the cap and wriggle the nozzle jet free. You can use a needle pin or a water flosser to clear it. Now back on the underside, you can now use the plastic trimmer wire, toothpick and water flosser to probe and clear out the blockage. Here you can see just how dirty the toothpick got. I didn't get a chance to take photos but the trimmer and water flosser had gotten some debris up and out - I also found a single red strand of thread clogged up in there. Do the same on the top and clear the shaft, just make sure you have a towel or bucket underneath to catch the water coming out. Now that you're done test the washer function out. I tried the rear washer and I was amazed at the pressure that was coming out, It was way more powerful than the first time I had gotten the car all those years ago, it's like a proper jet wash. Of course, with some slight adjustments to the nozzle jet I was able to get a much more sensible spray that won't strike cyclists, pedestrians or other cars. 😜 Now that you've cleared the blockage, make sure you wipe down and dry all parts that might've gotten wet on the inside of the trim, especially near any connectors and then do everything in reverse. Just be aware of the rear elements cable when reattaching the trim, you really don't want to snag this and break it off. I would highly recommend starting here. Hopefully this'll help as a guide for those who might have this same issue (and save you from buying a rear wiper motor unit).

So only in the aftermath did I read in various posts that olive oil may actually damage the leather... Thankfully I didn't experience any spots or any serious issues, I used it as an emergency (extra virgin olive oil!) because the alcohol hand gel I had used on my hands had started to destroy the leather on the steering wheel.

Well done, I can see the improvement on the leather seats, a good heat source and a good massage usually removes any stubborn marks or dents in the leather. I've done it before and will probably need to do it again when I get some time. I use the Autoglym leather cleaner and balm, but I've used some extra fine olive oil before which worked really well in nourishing the leather.

Mine's a liftback and also a 2017 plate (mine after the first three years). Wondering if this is a common fault or if we're all just unlucky? I've got mine booked in this Friday, dealer told me that this might not be covered under warranty (Skoda All-in Service Plan) due to wear and tear, foreign blockage or whatever. I've only ever filled up with water and the special VAG concentrated jet wash fluid so I wonder if that's ground to argue it?

Did that fix your issue? I'm experiencing the same thing on my Superb. I used to get some fluid coming out, I think it was the jet that was "misaligned" and so it didn't spray across the full length of the wiper. But now there's nothing coming out of the jet, even with the jet removed there is no water when the wiper function has been activated. Thinking I'll have to take it in for them to look at. 🙄

I got the DIVI brand but if you search for car USB charger on Amazon there are other brands which are identical or better to the one I have. Think ANIOPE is the closest one to mine, FLOVEME has QC. These ones will easily fit into both the front and rear compartment sockets and won't stop any of the compartments closing. And same thing with my magnetic phone mounts. The most similar design is made by Syncwire, the one with the ball joint. Only caveat is that you'll need to attach a plate to your phone, either on the phone itself or on the case.

Flush USB charging ports in the cigarette lighter/12v ports, for both front and rear. Magnetic phone mounts that go into the air vents, really like their design since they don't get in the way and don't stand out. Only problem I have had is that they obscure cold airflow, especially when you're running with two. 🥵

Do you know whether the rear screen glass has been replaced or if there's been any work done to the rear? You can find the rear antenna amplifier unit in the upper rear plastic trim and the solder points to the antenna elements in the glass. There was a similar issue posted before, so it may just be a disconnected/loose amp.

The price for a brand new BlackVue DR900X starts at £530 for 32GB built in memory, going up to £800 for 256GB! That being said it's a good thing that manufacturers are shielding their dashcams better to eliminate DAB reception interference though I'm not about to splash out that much for one. I'm just glad that the bracket works on the sedan, just trying to get used to all the TP interruptions now.

Mine's a 17 plate and it came like this. I spend more time opening them to get stuff inside out, so you might find the open space more practical. Regarding the engine, it's the VW 2.0 TSI EA888 Gen3 model (CHHB - 162 kW (220 hp) at 4,500-6,200 rpm, 258 ft lb (350Nm) at 1,500-4,000 rpm), the same found in the Golf Mk 7 GTI, VW Tiguan 2, Audi A3 and Octavia RS. It's been designed to be more lighter and more efficient and has dual injectors, both port and direct injection. I've read about the engine longetivty doesn't drop after a Stage 1 (ECU remap) if you are planning on doing that. That being said it is a FWD, so you may find the 220hp/350NM more than enough for launching it about and getting up to speed - get some good tyres and you'll be good. Also check the ski-hatch latch works and hasn't broken, there have been some cases where the mechanism breaks easily. Same for the storage area on the driver side next to the ignition/Start button.

Hmm if I saw the Briskoda sticker on a Skoda I'd imagine the owner to have been an enthusiast and someone that would look after their car. The extra screenwash, oil and bits makes me think that they were "ready" more so than having issues with the car, like if you saw an BMW with spare oil in the boot. If there were other parts I'd be more concerned, that being said the boot is cavernous. I can see they've taken out the interior rear side panels and have put something else there - check if they have the original side panels. At least they have a rubber bootliner thrown in. I also expect them to have a spare wheel. I would also check if the DSG Oil service has been done at 40k in the service history.

I think having the estate version might explain why you have a working radio signal, though I'm not sure what the specifics are. If you have some time, it would be interesting to see if your radio cuts out if you move the dash cam around the rear of the estate. I'm also wondering if the rear glass has the same style radio antenna elements? I have the sedan version, and on either side of the brake light there are radio antenna elements, right above the defrost lines/heater elements. In my case running the USB cable near those radio antenna elements/radio amplifier in the plastic trim killed it.

That's interesting because I have the Viofo A129 1080p where I also mounted the rear camera directly below the brake light onto the glass, and that killed my radio signal. Is your car the saloon/sedan or the estate? Did you run the cable along the top trim driver side?

Hi all, So when I upgraded to a dual camera setup and mounted the rear dash camera to the rear glass in-between the defrost lines, I found that I had lost all DAB reception. Recently I tried to buy some ferrite cores and mounted them on both ends of the USB cable and still had no reception. I'm also aware that there are some dash cameras companies that advertise that they have eliminated DAB interference but they want you to spend £200 or so on their new systems. 🙄 I got to experimenting and removed the mount, left the DAB radio on and then moved the rear dash camera while it was on, all over the rear glass to figure out where it cut off the DAB reception. If you mount anywhere on the glass you were going to cut off the signal. I found a nice spot (or so I thought) just underneath the top brake light right up at the edge of the plastic trim, but the problem was that my specific dash camera has a straight cable going out instead of something like a right/left-angle cable (and it's really not so easy trying to find a 6m left-angle to right-angle mini USB cable), so when I opened the boot door it would brush up and against the cable. If I had shut it without looking I'm pretty sure the cable would've been caught between the boot opening and damage both the cable and camera. Then there was another issue, that area below the top brake light gets really hot under the sun, so if you had a weak adhesive on the mount it'll probably fall off over time but the final problem was running the cable back to the C-pillar. I used the provided clips and mounted the USB cable to the top of the plastic trim and that's when the signal cut out again. I tried to shield the wiring using some layered aluminum foil (which I had planned to wrap around the USB cable if it had worked), unfortunately that didn't work and I'm aware that there are some EMF tape but those are very expensive to buy and experiment with. I've already wasted money getting various ferrite cores. Ultimately it looked like this wasn't going to work with any powered USB cable mounted on the plastic trim or rear glass, it all just seems to interfere with the DAB reception. My working solution was something I had found on a bimmer forum. Using what I had available I made this bracket (from a spare joist hanger bracket, lots of hammering, bending and satin black spray paint). Here it is fitted, off centre as there is a plastic trim clip holding up headliner. And here it is with the dash camera fitted and the cable tucked into the headliner and into the C-pillar. I might take it back out and re-adjust the angle so that it fits into the headliner better (or remake it entirely). The only issues I have is that the rear view is off centre and further back than before. The view is also slightly obstructed by the upper brake light cover and parcel shelf. However I have full DAB reception now with this set up, so I can listen to some tunes other than my own (and traffic announcements). 😁

Here's an update on the situation, I had the fault cleared through OBDeleven and the car's been fault free ever since. It did turn up some transmission codes but that was down to scanning while the engine was on (a no-no) and now having learnt to only scan with the ignition on I've not had any faults whatsoever. Fast forward to the booking past Easter bank holiday weekend I had it done and it passed. Was a bit concerned since the finance website went down that day and when I chased it up the person over the phone redirected me to the online booking for the eligbility test... 🙄 But it's finally been sorted out.

I have the same concerns about warranties in general but what is the alternative? Do it yourself or get to know someone in the trade that can help you? Though I'm glad to hear your dealer is happy to fit and code it. Hope it gets sorted out soon.

It's a minor annoyance, whenever I get in the car I go through a routine of turning it off. The memory module isn't all that expensive nor hard to do either so I am contemplating it. Though all it takes is that one time you forget to turn it off and your engine cuts off at the junction. I saw a coworker with a VW Tiguan hire car trying to park it in a tight spot, the thing kept cutting off after every shunt due to the Auto Stop Start 'feature', you could see the poor guy wasn't experienced in reversing despite the all the sensors on the car.