SomethingSuperbly

Normal mode is fine for the most part. My MPG is a bit low but that's a given for a 220 - imagine if I had a 4x4 280. If there's one thing I want to change it's the Auto Stop-Start function, something I'm sure fitting a Stop-Start memory module will fix.

Changing the rear wiper was the first thing I did! It didn't judder at all when I took ownership over the car, but slowly over time it just started juddering all the time. I got looks from my passenger when the rear wiper would make that god awful noise and there's only so much WD40 you can put on them. Mine is a 17 plate, so unfortunately it "forgets" the drive mode and starts in Normal mode. I believe they made the change so that the average joe won't floor it in Sports mode or something inane. I tried keeping it in Eco mode but gave up and it's been Normal mode all the way.

It doesn't sound like your dealer has been helpful at all. I'm also wondering about your car's warranty, has it been long since it was out of it? Would you consider getting extended warranty after all this? That is, if the warranty covers faults like this.

Sorry to hear this happen to you. It's not great considering how the car isn't even all that old! What did they exactly say the fault was? This really irks me when companies (like Apple) just outright state that something is faulty and the only option is to replace the entire unit (and expecting you to hand over a whole lot of money for it). There could be a faulty transistor, fuse or just some sort of bad connection, it really needs diagnosing but that's also another money pit. I suppose you could argue that there was always an underlying fault in the first place, but trying to prove that is another issue.

I believe the warranty covers 'named components', bundled with everything else (and the 20% discount at the moment) I think it's worth getting. Though having read various topics, I'm under the impression that anything goes wrong the dealer doesn't want to deal with it/pass it off as wear and tear/not covered. It feels like you have to really kick up a fuss and call customer services before they can do anything or give you some goodwill. I makes me think of my current situation, the car was still in warranty at the beginning of the month and yet I couldn't take the eligibility test because of that. Good customer service would have let me take the eligibility test while I was under warranty, fix any issues and then let me purchase the All-in service plan. But no. The car had to be out of warranty and that any fault would fail the test, ultimately the fault would have to be diagnosed and fixed however much it'll cost before going on the service plan. The fact that I cleared the fault and that it's not come back at all makes me wonder if the technicians are told to not do anything (like clearing the fault) unless they've been paid a fee to do so. If I had cleared the fault and it came back after a rescan then this would've been a different situation. Maybe it's time to look up other extended car warranty providers. 🙄

Echoing what john999boy said, I've also had it during bad weather, that is when it was really cold and when it snowed. It does go away after a while, just make sure the front radar area on the grill is clear and clean.

Finally got around to using OBDeleven on the car. Relatively straightforward, though I can see where you pay to unlock features. The first scan presented the fault with the air conditioning (P171900). I cleared the fault and did another scan, so now the car is faultless. I'm going to keep scanning the car while trying to recreate the fault for the next few days and rebook the test. Fingere crossed hopefully this time it'll pass without any issues. Also a slight correction, they wanted a diagnostic check fee of £120 for one hour, not £102 (they charge £60 for the first 30 minutes).

I've ordered the NextGen OBDeleven. If it doesn't give me additional information then I might be able to clear the code and see if it goes away.

It's the dealer's diagnostic fee. They said I should expect to pay that much depending on how quickly they can find the fault. I have a 2.0l petrol engine. The error code they gave me is just a fault flag "P171900 - Function restriction by engine control module", and the actual issue is something to do with the Climate Control Module. As to what exactly is the fault they couldn't tell me, there are no faults on the car's dashboard and I've not had any problems with the aircon. It would've made more sense to have had the eligibility test when the car is in warranty, but I'm guessing the reason they don't allow this is any faults they find they'd need to fix. I've ordered an OBD scanner anyway so that I can look at the full details.

Yes I'm considering doing this. The salesman was a bit vague about the actual fault, nothing is wrong with the car's climate control/air conditioning and it seems like something similar to here. Unfortunately I do not have the exact fault codes other than P171900. If I get the NextGen OBDeleven, I can at least use it to scan and clear any future codes. I'm not having much faith in dealerships.

Hi all, The warranty on the car (2017 plate, was given two years warranty when I bought it) ran out earlier on in the month and I had wanted to get the Skoda All-in Service plan (which includes a minor and major service, two MOTs, two years warranty and road side assist). I was told by the dealership that I was unable to do an eligibility check until after my warranty ran out (which is quite suspect but I didn't chase it). It is also currently on offer with a 20% off this month, bringing the total down from £768 to £612. I took it in today and received a call saying it had failed the test and that there was a fault with the Climate Control Module Function, fault code P171900. Apparently this isn't something they check for during regular service, just a visual check. They've given me two options of either booking it in for a diagnostic, quoted at £102 or just take their regular service plan offer. I've quickly looked through the forum and there have been a few posts on the fault. I feel like getting a reader like OBDEleven and clearing it before a retest, or calling up customer services and see if they can do anything as "good will". Does anyone else have any suggestions over what could be the fault or what I should do?

The Columbus 9.2" infotainment screen looks nicer and has a cleaner interface (despite the shortcuts being the furthest away from the driver), the bigger screen is better if you're using the the map for satnav or plan on using the parking camera. The newer version of Amundsen does aware with the two physical dials but at least you'll get more shortcuts on either side of the screen. I find the suspension on the Superb soft with 18" wheels, it'll really depend on your driving style and the roads you'll be on so you can save yourself £1000 there. Are you buying the sedan or the estate version? If you are buying the estate version, things like the rear backrest release in the boot and retractable parcel shelf makes sense. The USB-C port in the rear-view mirror panel would be nice with a dash cam but if it'll turn off with the ignition I have to wonder about its usefulness (especially when you want it to record when you're out of the car). Same thing with the wireless charger, most phones fast charge and judging by some of the comments here it's probably not as fast (nor as cheap) as using the onboard charging ports and cable. Travel assist is the harder thing to assess, since some things are more welcome than others, things like traffic sign recognition and adaptive lane assist can be more of an interference, park assist is probably something you'll use once and not again (but the additional side sensors should prove more helpful) whereas other things like predictive ACC and traffic jam are more welcome comfort features. Then on top of that, the rear view parking camera and area view is a whole lot of extra money but not unwarranted, I think the rear view camera should've been included considering the size of the vehicle. But of course, ordering and having to wait is the major issue.

There's a small gap where I was able to shake them out from the red corner into the clear section of the unit and hopefully out. Afterwards I used a vacuum over the open vents on the back of the unit and then covered them up with foam. I'm not sure how you'd be able to remove the cobweb since it's a "sealed" unit. You might be able to get away with using something like an air duster with a straw to dislodge the cobwebs.

Finally got around to removing these dead critters from the rear inner lights, and put in some foam inserts to stop them from going back in.

When I had my tyres changed I just rolled up to where they wanted it and turned the engine off. All they wanted to know was what tyre pressure I wanted and to set the tyre pressures on the system before heading off. They were also pretty quick to inform me of my kerbed alloy wheel before changing the tyres, something I had done just moments before....

I was aware that several members on this forum can retrofit cameras, unfortunately it's all a bit out of the way for me so I just paid the difference. I was set on going to a workshop that was cheaper at £380 but their online reviews put me off, so I ended up calling a few dealerships for a price and went for the nearest one. It was £500 and was completed in the day. The scratch isn't too bad, they probably leant on it or something but it's something I can get sorted out with my policy.

Over the past few weeks got all season tyres put on and had the reversing camera retrofitted on. The camera works great but I wish they took a bit more care with their work, found a little scratch on the side of the car and some of the clips in the tailgate weren't securely put back in. Nothing a little push or a small philips head screwdriver couldn't sort out. Now all I have to do is to clean out the rear inner lights which both have dead bugs in them and block them off with a little foam. I could probably go back to that one small damaged clip and put some expoxy on the lip to repair it.

Just ordered All Season tyres to replace all four Sport Contact 5's, one's under 4mm and the other not too far behind. Was quoted £164.56 by dealership and they advised buying and fitting them as a pair, so £329.12 in total. 😐 A local fitter was the cheapest out of the online places (BlackCircles, ASDA, KwikFit) including fitting. At least I'll be getting £45 for the three good tyres from another garage, better than throwing them away.

Replaced both front and rear wipers with Bosch ones. Now I don't have any loud juddering or awkward noises while using the wipers.

Gone are the days of muscle memory and tactile feedback, replaced by a sleek shiny screen that requires you to take your eyes off the road. Some of the cars are designed primarily as LHD, I'm looking at the VAG screens where the 'buttons' are situated on the far left side. Putting those aside, a lot of cars are now equipped with a lot of safety features like radar sensors, speed recognition, lane assist, adaptive cruise control and blind spot monitoring. But obviously mobile phones are more dangerous? That being said, apparently it's okay to use a mobile phone as sat nav device if it's mounted properly (aka 'hands free'). A lot of the wording seems to fall onto the illegal use of 'hand-held' mobile phones, articles like here and here. But of course I've seen many a white van driver driving with a mobile phone plastered against his face or a young lady with the phone held up against the steering wheel getting away with it.

I jumped from a Fabia to the Superb and I much prefer the wet clutch to the dry clutch (and the larger engine size too). The dry clutch was very twitchy and jerky in my experience. It's a shame though because I initially thought it was fine in the 1.2l I test drove as to the one in the 1.0l I eventually got before my Superb.

If you're worried about blinding drivers behind you, just pull the handbrake on and the rear brake lights will turn off. The green parking brake will turn red on the dash but you'll still be able to go when you put your foot on the accelerator without doing anything else. I used to put my car into Neutral or even Park at stop lights but having read a few threads on this pulling the handbrake is so much easier.

Your situation (and car engine) is pretty much the same as mine, I live pretty close to town and drive short trips which gives me a similar mpg as to what you're getting (high 10s/low to mid 20s) but on the chance I do get a longer drive I get about 30 or more. I don't even use ECO Mode, just Normal with some quick driving here and there but hardly in Sport Mode. I would rarely drive over an hour though so I might start taking it out on long weekend drives. Just to add a note, the newly introduced E10 petrol is reported to be "less fuel efficient" and so your mpg will be lower than normal.

Here is a video walkaround of the Superb 2021 facelift (L&K iV) with the 2 spoke steering wheel. Other differences include the old USB A port in the armrest storage area but also the lack of SD card inputs in the glove box. The removal of the torchlight in the boot makes sense for me but not some of the other things (like auto dipping only on one side). I do like the front bumper of the facelift but the foglight design ruins it for me, too much chrome and empty space.

I'm finding all this rather curious. I have a 17 plate SEL Executive with heated seats and the 9.2in Columbus, but lacking the heated steering wheel (and paddles) I've found a new wheel on eBay minus the airbag. I wonder how difficult it would be to retrofit one in given that my car has some of the heating elements?