BogdanB

I'm pretty sure the situation isn't dire at all. It will just need an uninterrupted regen the next time it starts one. I would advise to keep the vag DPF on until you get a complete regen.

Probably because the regen was flagged as started, and wasn't completed, the timer goes on. As long as the DPF isn't full, I wouldn't worry. There will be a warning on the dash once the regen duration gets to 90min.

It means that you have interrupted a regen ( probably by turning off the engine ), and that it is still scheduled in the ECU since it's not marked as completed. The DPF isn't regenerating now. You can tell that by the temperature.

Mike's euro5 andI get the most efficient regents when driving at around 60-80kmh. About - 2600 3000 mg/min. (once it's up to temp)

Can you provide a part code / link ?

Yeah, I forgot about saying that engine is up to temperature. Then, indeed, only the regen will bump up the revs.

That sounds as normal behavior. I would only add to it that the idle can go to 1k and 1.0l consumption for other reasons too. The besy way to tell if you are in an active regen ( if you dont own VCDS, VAG DPF or any other related software) , you can check the START/STOP screen in the infotainment system, and it shows that it's disabled due to "ENGINE MUST BE RUNNING".

A regen can indeed complete at idle. But not in 10 min. It usually takes around half an hour. I have watched a lot of regents using vag DPF / vcds. At idle, it struggles to keep the temperature up and it uses way more fuel for the post injection. While doing it on the highway, it does minimal post injection and it finishes in around 10 to 15 min.

In theory this is how the load models are calculated. The first model seems to be 'soot mass calculated' which rises steadily ( thus determining almost the same driving time between regens ), and the second one, 'soot mass measured' . So, even if your DPF is full, the soot mass calculated would show a lesser value, depending on 'time running'. When my DPF was clogged this is what would happen: 1) Regen running, only completing on idle. 2) Soot mass calculated steadily going up 3) Soot mass measured spiking to almost 100% ( 24g) when starting to drive away 4) Few seconds into driving, a new regen starting, triggered by soot mass measured, even if soot mass calculated was at around ~5g

That's the thing that gets cleaned actually. When 'washing' the dpf.

The ash is an estimate. You will know it has to be *cleaned* (wouldn't advise totally replacing if cleaning is a cheap option where you live) when you can't drive 5km without triggering a regen. Also, I wouldn't look at distance between regens, but TIME between regens. I can get 400km or 100km between regens, depending on city/highway driving. But the time is almost the same every time. On the highway I might get passive regens which help a bit with the interval. As long as you don't hear your fans running every time you stop the car, I wouldn't bother. ( Had this happening to me, never being able to complete a regen and fans always running ).

That sound is 'normal' on the pump . I have read that some people had it replaced with a new one and it made the same sound.

The regen is triggered by either one of them once thet reach 24g ( I think, or something close to that ). A regen will also trigger above 80% if you are on a motorway or some high speed road. I've noticed that if I drive at a constant 100km/h for a few minutes it will start a regen even if it's not at 100% or near it.

Is it coming from the rear axle? Or the steering wheel itself?

I'm guessing this isn't normal though 😭😅

Not to be a joker, but you didn't say you checked / changed the pistons or piston rings. 😂

Tbh, talking about oil price while driving a vRS is kinda odd to me 😆

Yeah, many fakes here too. I'm using Ravenol VMP. The question wasn't about brand but about viscosity actually. Since during the week I do lots of short trips, i wondered if the car could benefit from using 0w30 instead of 5w30. I'm thinking of switching to this one RAVENOL VSW SAE 0W-30 | RAVENOL

As the title says, which type oil would you recommend for this engine? 0w30 or 5w30 ? (both having 507.00 of course) Also, is this oil any good?

Check the hose going from the rocker cover to the intake pipe ( just before the turbo). If there's no oil in there, then you can exclude a few things (i.e. faulty pcv, excessive crankcase pressure). Here's how it looks on mine ( not good ). Will have to do a compression test and see what are the values. If the values are fine, I'm probaly going to change to rocker cover. The said tolerance is considered to be 0.5L / 1000km. So you are just above that. Nevertheless, even that 0.5L figure is ****** insane. At that rate, you probably don't even have to do an oil change (joke .. ) since you already put 5L in 10k. Also, welcome to the oil club Let's hope your stay is short.

What's your oil temperature range? By my understanding, the oil should usually be at least 100*C. I've read that 110-125 is the desired range. Also, where is this said cooler located? L.E. : This is also from the owner's manual, which confirms my thoughts:

If it's not a manual though, It might be related to a known gear selector switch. Error: workshop! Leave vehicle only when selector lever is in position P.

Tbh, I'm not sure that cars equiped with cat/dpf would smoke at all. I think it all gets trapped in there. I had my DPF cleaned due to it being stuffed and the guys told me that there was a lot of oilish deposit in it. I'm going to soon do a compression test to see if it's all fine and I would also recommend anyone with this problem to do it. The engine is going to be worked on anyway sometime next year, since there are only 3 options left in the whole system that could lead to oil consumption: worn out piston ( ), piston rings or valve stem seals.

That's where the membrane is. But that's not the whole PCV system. I changed the membrane ( the old one actually looked fine but since I got a replacement I changed it anyway) and still getting high oil consumption and quite a good amount of oil in the hose 32. Also, @Skully27, you might want to first check if there's any amount of oil in that hose ( 32 ). Unclip the side that goes into the air intake pipe and check it.

A service shop asked for a starting price of around 1200Euros which is mostly the workmanship for opening up the engine(going up, depending on what's found there. ). Going to weight my options though. I am very distrustful of service shops. Most of them don't even use torque wrenches and so on. All the repairs that I've done on my current and previous car, have been in my garrage with my father