MunsterScot

I had the same sort of issue on my 2017 190tdi Sportline combi. Inside edge of rear tyres wearing. Cupping I think it is called. 4 wheel alignment done and the rear drivers side was slightly out but not much. Shocks are Koni special actives and only about 2 years old. I'd to replace the front springs just over two years ago as the drivers side snapped. Rear springs are the originals. I don't carry heavy loads (at least not often) and I don't have a tow bar. Could it be worn / saggy rear springs causing the issue with the rear types cupping? I've rotated the wheels for now so the new tyres are on the back and the old cupped tyres are on the front. A bit of extra road noise from the front but hopping that will go as the tyres wear.

Here in Ireland we can get Dipetane. Not sure if you get it in the UK or not. On some forums you will see people saying that when they put their car in for its NCT (Ireland version of the MOT) if failed the emissions test. Then after running the car for a period of time with Dipetane in the diesel it passed the retest no bother. Also threads saying the NCT tester recommending using Dipetane to get cars passed the emissions test. It's a Hydrocarbon fuel treatment that is supposed to make the fuel burn more efficiently reducing carbon and emissions. https://dipetane.com/

I've a 2011 VW CC 2.0 TDI 170 BHP with the DQ250 wet DSG (probably the same in the sportline you're looking at). It has 240k miles on it and still on the original clutch pack and never had a problem with the gearbox. And that's after getting the engine and DSG remapped 7 years ago. I've also got a 2017 2.0 TDi 190BHP superb sportline with the DQ250 wet DSG. I had the engine and DSG remapped 2 years ago. Now on 400,000Km. Original clutch pack and never had a problem with the gearbox. Just make sure the DSG oil and filter change has been done every 40k miles.

There is also this thread:

I had the same problem a few weeks ago. Bought a 2nd hand one from a breakers for €65 I think it was an fitted it myself. This gives a bit of a guide to how to remove the centre console: Once you get the console trim lifted you can unplug the cables and remove it completely to make it easier to remove the switch. The switch is held in with a few plastic clips. Easy enough to get the switch out. Just take you time so you don't break anything.

Not on a 16 plate but can beat it on a 17 plate. 2017 2.0 TDi 190BHP DSG and currently on 396700km. Still drives great.

Could you plastic weld it? Look on Youtube for plastic welding and there are a few videos of how to do it. Something like this:

@numskull I've tried that but didn't work. The error codes I get are related to the lumbar support settings.

I have a similar problem with my drivers seat. The memory function worked fine and the seat automatically moved depending on the key used to open the car. Then one time I move the seat all the way back to clean underneath it and the memory function has never worked since no matter what I do. I've followed all the instructions about move seat forward, back, up, down, tile forward, tilt back, etc, etc and then you get a beep. But none worked. I even tried using VCDS to run the reset function. When doing this the seat moves in all direction but the error code never clears and the memory function has never returned. I've given up and resigned myself to manually adjusting the seat. Unless anybody has any new ideas on what to try.

I've got a 2017 Sportline with the 19" alloys and standard suspension (no DCC). As mentioned above they are starting to show there age and could do with a re-furb. I've seen others say that the 19's make the ride more harsh and cause more road noise. But I haven't been in another Superb to comment on that. Regarding suspension: I changes the 4 shocks to Koni Special actives. Made the car handle a lot better.

Well I've looked in to getting VCDS and plan to try both and see what difference they make. I've also been looking into an Ultimate9 EVC Throttle Controller. Does anybody have any experience with it / would you recommend getting one. I see Stage1customs.com are selling them for €157.90 including delivery to Ireland (from Australia). Does anybody know where else to get them or is there another throttle controller you'd recommend (and where to get it). Thanks.

Thanks guys. @Gizmo Did you notice much difference after changing / would you recommend doing it?

Hi All, I was reading a couple of threads about throttle response changes that can be made via VCDS. The two options being: Option 1: 44 module (steering assist) Security access: 19249 Adaptations Select channel: 'Driving profile switchover' Change from 'Incremental: controlled over time' to 'Direct: controlled over threshold value' Option 2: "Audi Mod" Controller 01- Engine 07 - Coding Byte 0, Bit 0-2, Change from Škoda (01) to AUDI (02) I'm thinking on getting VCDS to try above and other things but have a couple of questions first I hope you can help with: 1. If doing either option do I need to do it separately for both keys / driver profiles or does doing the change once do it for all "drivers"? 2. "Audi Mod": I've read that doing this can sometimes cause problems, especially with cars with DCC. I've got a 2017 2.0 TDI, 190 BHP (remapped to 210BHP ish) with DSG. No DCC, standard shocks/springs. Do you know if there would be any problems with doing this mod? 3. Is there any benefit of doing one option over the other or is the best option to do both at the same time? Any advice muck appreciated.

@Markbro My car is FWD. I was going to post the link to the Koni page but @Gabrielem beat me to it. If you look up Superb 3 on www.koniuk.co.uk the number quoted for front special actives is 8745-1388 as well:

@Markbro 8745-1388 are the same as what I have on the front of my car. I have a 2017 2.0 TDi 190BHP DSG Combi. So looks like similar to what you have. As mentioned I've not had any issues with them and they have been fitted for approx. 8 months and I've done over 27k Km with them fitted.

@Markbro Not had any issues with the shocks. I fitted the rears myself - easy job. I got a local garage to fit the fronts. I fitted new front top mounts at the same time as they can go causing knocking or grinding noises when turning. What part of the shock decided to unthread itself?

@Antgj Rear mats. Photos 3 & 4 of 4. You can also get the same type of mat for the boot. I didn't get one of those. I went for a rubber mat as I thought it would be better for when I have the dogs in the back.

@Antgj Rear mat: Photos 1 & 2 of 4.

@Antgj These two photos are of the front passenger mat fitted in the case. Excuse the dirt / mess.

@Antgj Apologies for the delay in getting back to you Overall Coverage: I find the mats a good fit and give a lot of coverage as they also cover the sides as well as just the floor. The rear mat also covers the tunnel as well so you don't have to buy one of those separate. Fixings to the floor: In general the fix well. They have a combination of velcro and plastic tabs you push under the plastic trim of the car to hold them in place. Only issue I've had is with the drivers mat slipping forward. But that is more to do with the wife not lifting her feet when she gets in / out of the car rather. She has the tendency to push on the mat with her feet pushing it forward. As a result her heels end up not being on the plastic reinforcing part of the mat resulting in a hole wearing in it (you will see what I mean in the photos attached). Delivery time: It was over 18 months ago I got them so can't fully remember but I think it was around 3 - 4 weeks. I think it gives estimated delivery times on the web site. General: I've found them good. Good it and cover well. Decent quality. I haven't found them slippy in the wet. Makes cleaning the car quicker because the cover so much of the carpet and when you lift them out because they have the sides on them it keeps all the dirt on the mat. Cleaning them is easy. I either use a sponge and warm water when washing the car or just use so wipes. I'll attached some pictures so hopefully you can see what like they are. A couple of the photos also show the drivers mat which is currently out of the car. Due to the size limit of 10Mb for photos they will be over a couple of posts. First two are of the drivers mat out of the car.

Mainly main roads and motorway.

My VW CC 2.0 TDi 170 BHP (mapped for the last 6 years to 210ish BHP) with the DQ250 gearbox is on 250K miles and still on the original clutch pack. I had the DMF changed approx. 4 years ago by an Indy garage. I asked them at the time about changing the clutch pack (since the gearbox would be out anyway) and they said they have never had to change one. What they can go is through the coding increase the pressure applied to the plates so they grip better.

DSG will be fine. I got my 2011 VW CC 2.0 TDi 170 BHP (same DSG) remapped approx. 6 years ago and it has never missed a beat. I also got my 2017 Suberb 2.0 TDi 190 BHP remapped approx. 16 months ago and it's never missed a beat either. One thing that might be impacted over time depending on the mileage of your car is the Dual Mass Flywheel. I've had to change the DMF on both cars. That said, both have over 200k miles on them and still going strong. If you do go for the remap also look into a DSG remap. As well as making the gear changes faster it also raises the torque limit in the DSG to take full advantage of the engine remap. As standard I think the DSG is restricted to handling 400Nm. I've also had this done on both cars with no issue. Note: If getting this down the remapper needs a special cable to connect straight to the DSG controller. It is not remapped through the ODBII port like the engine is. No problem with the DSG handling the extra torque as VW use the same DSG in more powerful cars.

For car mats have a look at: www.diamondcarmats.com I got a front and rear set. Good quality, fit well and cover more than standard mats.

When checking he switches like @Ivan8192 said did you make sure both switches (front and rear) were both in the same position at the same time (both pushed in and both out - I can't remember which way if off). The switches don't work like a light in your house that has two switches where if you switch the light on with one switch you can switch it off with the other. Both switches in the car must be in the off position to turn the lights off.