MunsterScot

@Evolution13 I was going by the original poster put: Engine 2.0 TDI (122 HP, DTRA). Transmission DQ200. DTRA output is 122 BHP and 250Nm torque.

Not sure about the DQ200 DSG gear box but I do know the DQ250 gearbox has a thermostat. If the DQ200 is the same that could be your problem.

I had a similar issue on my Superb 2 litre diesel with 190hp recently. I was initially thinking it could be the dual mass fly wheel, DSG clutch pack or even the DSG related. I was talking to a local indy who suggested it might be the crank position sensor going faulty. Had them change it and car has been good since.

When I got my 2017 Sportline approx. 5 years ago it was bouncy going over bumps and leaned quite a bit in corners. I changed the four shocks to Koni Special Actives. I got them from Autodoc. Fitting then totally transformed the handling of the car. I've seen other posts regarding fitting either B4's or B6's and them making a big change.

@greentrumpet See my post two up from your question. It may help.

Try Forte Diesel Turbo Cleaner along with Forte Advanced Formula Diesel Treatment. I've had good results with it in the past. Pour both bottles in the tank, let car idle for 40 minutes and then take it for a drive. You can get it on Amazon or EBay.

This might help:

There is specific DSG oil you have to use for the service and there is also a filter that should be replaced. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UjxAQsePR7Q

It's not coding as such. You need to use the the likes of VCDS, OBDII or Carly to let the car know a new battery ahs been installed. The car then knows this and adjusts the charging to suit. There are videos on YouTube about it. If you search about it you'll find articles / people saying you don't have to do it. Others saying you do and some saying if you don't do it it might shorten the live of the new battery. If you have VCDS, OBDII or Carly it is easy enough to do. You just put in the capacity of the new battery, the type of battery and it asks for the serial number. For the serial number you can put anything as long as it is different to the existing battery.

Hi All, I have a 2017 2.0TDi 190BHP FWD Sportline Estate. It was in for it's periodic NCT (MOT in the UK) inspection. Failed on a broken front drivers side spring. Which I was a bit surprised at given I'd only had them replaced approx. 3 years ago. I'm looking to replace with standard springs and have been looking on Autodoc.ie which has a number of different option of length, "For vehicles with bad road version", "For vehicles without sports suspension", "For vehicles without sports suspension" and "For vehicles with standard suspension". I've done a but of reading/searching and there are a number of articles about the Sportline having 10 - 15mm lower ride high to a standard Superb, etc. but the Sportline does not have "sports" suspension. My question is: Does anybody one know what the OEM number would be for front springs for a 2017 2.0TDi 190BHP FWD Sportline Estate? I can then use that to search Autodoc. Thanks in advance.

I have a Skoda Sportline 2017 2.0 TDI as well. A couple of years back I looked at replacing the shocks. Looking then I'd found that the Sportline sits about 10 - 15mm lower than a standard Superb. But it is not "sport" suspension. In the end I ended up going for KONI Special Actives rather than Bilstein B4 or B6. With changing to the KONI SA was I had to change all 4. If you change the rear to Bilstein B4's I imagine you'd be ok only changing the rears as they are OE replacement. If you went for B6 "Performance" or B8 "Performance Plus" shocks, you might need to change all 4 (front & read) to keep the car balanced (like I had to do with the KONI SA). Otherwise you'll have standard shocks on the front and "Performance" or "Performance Plus" shocks on the rear. This is the thread about the KONI SA's:

Hi @Ali1 I reset the code and put some Forte Advanced Diesel Treatment and Forte Diesel Turbo Cleaner in the fuel and ran it for a while (links below. You can buy it on Amazon as motor factors don't usually stock it as it is supposed to be trade only). Code has only come back the once. I think for me, but could be wrong, the issue I have is the wife drives the car most of the time (80 miles a day 5 days a week) and she doesn't drive very fast or accelerate very hard so the vanes on the turbo don't really get a chance to open / move very much. So when I dropped the car into sport and put the for down the vanes on the turbo were sticky so I got an under boost error. As mentioned, I could be wrong but the code has only came back the once a few month later. I've also started using dipetane regularly to see if that helps. A few years ago I had the same boost issue on a Mini Copper S (completely different engine I know). With it I when through checking inlet boost pipes, turbo actuator play, valves linked to turbo pressure. In the end with the Cooper S it turned out to be a blocked CAT causing too much back pressure. New CAT and all good. Have you scanned the car to see what error codes you have? https://www.forteuk.co.uk/product/advanced-formula-diesel-treatment/ https://www.forteuk.co.uk/product/diesel-turbo-cleaner/ https://dipetane.com/ https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/code-p0299-turbo-underboost-resolution-repository.271408/

are these what you are looking for? https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/superb-iii/wind-rain-deflectors/

Regarding mileage. I've got a 2011 2.0 TDI 170bhp DSG VW CC with 260k miles on it. Had it 8 years. Routine service and DSG service keeps her going. Things changed/fixed: Front wheel bearings, discs, pads, tyres, couple of bushes Dual Mass Fly Wheel. So nothing out of the norm for routine wear and tear and it never misses a beat. My 2017 2.0 TDI 190BHP DSG superb has 400k Km on it. Had it 3 years. Things changed fairly much the same as the VW CC, As others have mentioned. Routine servicing including DSG and they will do very large miles. I've read of some 2.0 TDIs hitting 500k miles.

I scanned the car for codes. The one I got was: P029900, Turbo Charger Under Boost

Anybody?

Hi All, I've got a 2017 2.0 TDI 190 BHP DSG sportline. A couple of times now over the last 2- 3 week when I've dropped the DSG into Sport and hit the accelerator to overtake a car I get a flashing coil light and the car goes into limp mode. Stop the car and restart the flashing coil light goes out and car goes back to driving normal. I did a quick scan with Carista and have the code P029900, Turbo Charger Under Boost. Doing a bit of searching / googling I've found a couple of possibilities: 1. A check valve on the vacuum line: 2. Turbo actuator: Any other ideas what it could be before taking the car to the Indy? I'm planning on trying 1. above as it's only a few quid for the part and an easy change. Thanks.

Rather than replace the slipping clutches have you looked into can the pressure used to operate the plates be adjusted. I ask because a VW/Skoda Indy had mentioned this to me before. About 3 -4 years back I had my 2011 VW CC 2.0 TDI 170BHP with the DQ250 DSG into them to get the Dual Mass Flywheel changed. So I asked them as they were doing the DMF should I get the clutches done at the same time (car was on about 220,000 miles at the time and on the original clutch pack). They said no and that they had never had the need to change a clutch pack on a DSG. If the clutches did start to slip they could increase the pressure used to operate the plates using VCDS to stop the slipping. My VW CC is now at 260,000 miles and still on the original clutch pack with routine 40,000 mile DSG oil changes. Might not apply to a DQ200 box but might be worth looking into to save a few £££. There are also videos on YouTube about how you can use VCDS to carry out adaptations on the DSG where the clutch re-learns "bite" / engagement points. They might be worth a look as well.

Where in Ireland are you? Might be worthwhile giving Daltons just outside Portlaoise a call if you're not to far away. www.daltons.ie

@Donweather It was a four wheel laser alignment where it measures all the angles. So I'd say the camber on the rears was checked. As mentioned earlier in the thread, small adjustment made on the rear drivers side. I think when I replace them (next few days) I'll try rotating tyres periodically as mentioned earlier in the thread to see if that helps. The current set had done approx. 32k miles before I noticed the rumble noise starting.

When I got 2 new tyres a few weeks back I got a four wheel alignment check done. Rear drivers side was out slightly but not much.

@langers2kWondering if you can help here. When I got my car a couple of years ago the memory buttons for the seat worked fine. One time when moving the seat all the way back to hover underneath they stopped working, I followed the move forward, back, etc. and it reset. Then a e while later the same thing happened and no matter the combination of forward, back, up, down, etc. nothing would reset it. Using VCDS I ran the basic settings a number of times but nothing seems to get rid of the error codes. I've taken some photos of VCDS to show what I get. Error Code 1: Error Code 2: Error Code 3: Module Info: Advanced Info: Thanks.

I've got a 2017 2.0 TDi 190Bhp Combi and run 2.5 bar on all corners as usually there is only two people in the car. Do you think increasing the rears to 2.8 bar might reduce the issue I'm getting with wear / cupping on the inside edge of the rears?

I have the same problem on mine and tried the different options mentioned in the various threads. I even tried using VCDS to reset and complete the normalising (I think it is called) where the seat automatically moves through all movements. Still no joy. So resigned myself to just moving the seat manually. Error code I get is something like lumbar movement missing basic settings.

@toot I had read that the recommendation was to always put the new tyres on the rear. Hence moving the new tyres to the rear and putting the old ones on the front. I'll see how it goes. I'll probably end up getting new tyres on the front as well .