MunsterScot

Couple of links: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/449293-fitting-nextbase-dashcam/?tab=comments#comment-5048412 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/484324-dashcam/?tab=comments#comment-5437390 I think when I fitted mine I used the fuse location mentioned in the first link. The location is only powered when the ignition is on.

@k.youngI used a Viezu agent local to me. https://viezu.ie/ I have used Viezu on three different cars now and never had a problem. Results have always been good. One thing though is that to do the DSG remap the garage needs a special cable to connect to the DSG and not all places have it. For my VW CC I used Fiachra Purcell Motors in Kilcock. I think they are now: https://vtcperformance.com/ and do custom remaps as well now. They shouldn't be too far from you.

Sounds good. Once you have them fitted report back on what you think of the change. I've been reading about benefits of changing the rear anti-roll bar for an upgraded one to reduce body roll in corners. Have you thought about that give you have lowered springs and are fitting the Koni's?

@Muff Did you get the DSG remapped as well or just the engine. A DSG remap will make the gear changes quicker and raise the torque limit in the gear box allowing you to take full benefit of the engine remap. I the standard DSG map limits the to torque the gearbox will use to either 400 or 450 NM. So you are not getting the full benefit of the engine remap. In case you are worried about the increased torque going through the gearbox damaging it don't. The gearbox can handle a lot more. I remapped both the engine and DSG on my 2017 2.0 TDi 190BHP a year ago and never had a problem and I'm at approx. 340,000KM. I also have a 2011 2.0 TDi 170BHP DSG VW Passat CC that I remapped the engine and DSG on 6 years ago. It is now on 245,000 miles and has never missed a beat. Routine engine and DSG services and all is good.

From memory mine took about a week and a half to arrive. Fitted the rears myself as they are easy but got a local garage to fit the fronts. I think I read some place that it is not recommended to use Special Actives with lowered springs. Something to do with how the shock works. I might be wrong. But it would be worth a Google to double check.

Car feels more planted on the road compared with the old shocks. Bounciness on the front end has also gone. Car just feels better all round. So, yes, was worth the €500.

Well I went for all 4. Fitted them yesterday along with a new engine mount on the gearbox side. Took the car for a short run. Runs smoother and handles better. The bounciness on the front is gone. Early days but worth it so far. For info: I ended up buying them from Auto-Doc. €494 (£421) delivered to Ireland. Other prices I could find were €636 (Winparts), €505 (Amazon.de), €535 (Amazon.fr) But not in stock with Amazon), €700 ( (from UK) + import tax (thanks Brexit) Front: 8745-1388 Rear: 8245-1387 So, like most things these days, shop around for prices before ordering.

Hi All, My car (2017 2.0 TDi 190BHP DSG) has started to make a squeak noise when turning left. Doesn't make it when driving straight or turning right. Makes it as soon as I turn the steering wheel left. My initial thinking was front wheel bearing but they have both recently been changed. I was searching Briskoda and found this: So decided to have a look at my gearbox mount. When I look at the mount and push the engine to me there is a lot of play and the mount needs to be replaced. The attached video shows the play I'm talking about. Before buying a new mount and doing the job I thought I'd check with the guro's. Do you think the mount needs replaced? NDXV2911.MOV

Hi patrolman, Do you mean Southern Ireland rather than Island? That would be because Ireland is still in the EU.

Did they not stop sending to the UK after Brexit?

I would have thought that if Autoglass are at fault it is there problem to fix. You shouldn't need to worry about a wiring diagram. If they can't fix it say to them they need to send it to the main dealer to be fixed.

Do you mean the rear interior light is on all the time? The front and rear switches are independent to each other. To turn the light off both the front and rear switches need to be in the off position (pushed in). If either switch is in the on position the light will stay on.

Can somebody confirm the correct part number for Koni Special Actives for a 2017 2.0TDI 190BHP Combi Sportline. Looking at the Koni web site they are: Front: 8745-1388 Rear: 8245-1387 But when I look on some websites it says the 8745-1388 do not fit the car. The rears are OK. Thanks.

Thanks All. When I change them all 4 it will be.

I'd agree when changing items on the same axle (e.g.: change both rear shocks, change both front tyres). But not so sure about across axles. What I mean is: When somebody has a leaking rear shock (like I did) they'd replace both rears, but I wouldn't change all 4 just to keep the same make front and rear.

Hi All, I've had my 2017 2.0 TDi 190BHP Sportline for about a year now. When I got it I replaced the rear shocks with Monroe's as the originals were leaking. I find the front of the car can be quite bouncy. I've been reading up and a good recommendation seems to be to fit Koni Special Actives. My question is: Would you recommend I replace all 4 shocks or do you think I'd be OK just replacing the front considering the rear Monroe's are only a year old? Thanks.

On the VW CC I've had to do the following over the 6 years I've had it: Front and rear discs and pads Front wheel bearings New battery Alternator rebuild Dual Mass Fly wheel replaced 1 rear shock - car has DCC and replaced it with a 2nd hand unit from a breaker Front drop links Front bushings A power unit failed and had to be replaced (2nd hand unit) and coded. It failing caused strange things to happen like: The front fog lights wouldn't work, the main beam headlights would not come on, flashing the headlights didn't work either till you tried 3 times with the stalk then they worked. There was a couple of other strange electrical things as well that I can't remember. Amplifier for the Kanton sound system had to be repaired as it was causing a drain on the battery even when switched off. Sent it to a place in Germany for repair So other than the power unit & amplifier nothing you wouldn't expect to have to change over time as they are wear and tear components. I should add, that the above was even with the engine and DSG being remapped 6 years ago. So the remaps haven't caused any issues. On the Superb Sportline I've done the following in the year I've had it. Some as preventative based on above so I knew they'd be needed relatively soon anyway: Front and rear discs and pads Front wheel bearings Dual Mass Fly wheel replaced Front bushings Rear shocks Front springs - Driver side snapped when sitting in car Thinking on changing all shocks for Koni Special Actives as I've read good things about them making improvement to the handling.

I've got a 2011 VW CC 2.0 TDI 170BHP DSG with 243,000 miles on it an still going strong. Regular servicing including engine oil changes (8 - 10k miles) and DSG oil changes (40k miles). My 2017 Superb Sportline 2.0TDI 190 BHP DSG has 210,000 miles on it an it doesn't miss a beat either with routine servicing.

@Ivan8192 Never got to the bottom of it. I never looked in to it much to be honest. I just reset the error code each time it shows up. I did buy the car pre-owned and only got 2 plastic keys. I did think about there being a third key in the car someplace. I ruled it out based on the car has Kessy so if there was a key inside the car with enough battery life for the car to detect it then I should be able to open the door an start the car without having a key on me. But I can't. Maybe I was wrong to rule out the third key in the car someplace and should have a good search around to be sure.

I've got a 2017 Sportline Estate (no sunroof). I bought this one: https://www.winparts.ie/luggage-transport/boot/dog-guard/c1130/g3-dog-barrier-39-pratico-39-85-140cm/p444397.html It clamps on to the rear head rests (on to the metal spikes that go from the headrest into the back of the seat - I can't think on the correct name) so I'd think it would be OK if you have a sunroof. The website is an Irish one (.ie) and there is a .eu one as well but they no longer send to the UK because of Brexit.

I had mine in at a local VW Indy. They said it is just starting to go and will get some time out it yet. Quoted €950 to change the fly wheel. Covers the part and 6 hours labour.

What happens is you send you amplifier to them. They inspect / test it and let you know what the issue is. If you agree to it they repair the amplifier and ship it back to you. I had my one repaired approx. 12 - 18 months ago and it's still working fine with no power issues.

I had a similar problem on my 2011 VW CC. New battery fitted and coded. Alternator refurbished. And still had the same issue. Local Auto Electrician traced it to be a fault with the amplifier for the stereo / radio head unit. Apparently there are known faults with some amplifiers used by the VW group. I used the following company to repair the amp: https://www.amp-performance.de/en Since then no problems, This is the issue I had:

I've got a 2011 VW cc 170tdi DSG. I had to get the Dual Mass Flywheel changed approx. a year ago. The Indy I used said no need to change the clutch pack and they had never seen one needing changing. The CC had 240k miles on it when the DMF was changed. The Indy said if the clutch packs do start to slip they can change the coding to increase the pressure on the plates. On my 2017 Superb Sportline 190 TDI DSG I'm starting to get a knocking noise like there was on the CC before the DMF was changed. So a trip back to the Indy it will be for another €700+ bill.

Hi All, I have a 2017 2.0 TDI 190PS DSG Sportline Combi. It has KESSY Quite often when I scan the car with the Carly App and adapter I get the above error message. I clear it and after a while it comes back. The thing is I only have two keys. Both of which I've already replaced the battery in. I've searched in Briskoda and Google and not much comes up. Only thing I can find is a VW Technical Service Bulletin 57-19-02. But it just says about things that will happen because the battery is low (none of which I have) and that vehicles with KESSY a message may displayed on the Instrument Cluster which I don't get. Any idea what could be causing the error to come up? I also sometimes get an error for start/stop inactivated because of low voltage. Could it just be the car battery voltage is low and the car it throwing up B147B18 as a spurious error? I know a low car battery can sometimes cause strange errors to happen. Thanks.