Former

Not sure how else to Report this other than from this post's Report menu option and I don't know if it's just my PC and/or Google Chrome settings but it only happens on this forum. When I click into this forum I get the (presumably Google Chrome) offer of translation from French to English even though all text is in English so I wonder about the hyperlink. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/402-skoda-fabia-mk-iv-2021/

Hi, welcome. Others make have different answers but I can't hear any (unusual or loud) noises in any of the videos on this thread including yours Chris. My wife's 20151.2 TSI (90) Fabia makes various noises from the engine bay at various times I just expect it's the computer programs doing their stuff. A second warm start of the day after the car has been sitting for an hour or two will give the high revs at idle to warm the emissions' stuff. We sometimes get a loud vibration rattle off I think something that sounds like an exhaust shield but as I've a couple of times checked nothing is loose (when checking at least) and the noise is only very occasionally and for a very short time, I don't worry about it. The mystery underside clonk this model gets is regular and annoys me but again I just (very begrudgingly) accept it as German engineering 'quality' of the 21st century. You might have only done it for the video but I would never start the engine and immediately pull off, things might still be settling from the engine starting. My routine is to turn the ignition on and check all the dash lights that should come on and then go out, whilst doing this I put my seatbelt on and then start the engine, checking the dash and other lights and instruments by quick glances and listen to the engine and car for anything unusual (all distractions like radio, phone are always tuned off before I turn the engine off previous use of the car). All this only takes a few seconds and all becomes habit like checking the mirrors and looking over your shoulder before pulling off.

That is a really good point that I totally missed in the photos. I use old plastic spatulas that my wife has discarded (often for no good reason but I have learnt not to bother questioning such things) for jobs like this and others, having and using at east two of these on such jobs makes things easier. I have never used any of those protective sprays, I find them very annoying when on other cars as they are always messy to dealt with, as long as the battery terminals were clean and the inside of the battery terminal clamps are clean when fitted things remain fine without further protection but that might depend on the environments the car and battery are exposed to. Years ago I would put a different product on the cleaned battery terminals (not anymore as I have put) but if I did I would apply a thin layer of something like Contralube 770 with a very inexpensive very small artist's brush, to the battery terminals for the terminal clamps to clamp to and nowhere else. But others may choose or need to do different, if so buying a new can seems a great waste to spray a very small amount in a one time use for years, better to borrow some to use. Also covers can often hold moisture in, covers used to be available for old style ignition coils and distributor caps but they were never favoured for keeping moisture out and would be removed and suggested they were not refitted.

The info available sounds good , but, and I could be wrong (I am many, many times) I'm not sure this is available on a 2016(?) Fabia. It's not on my wife's 2015 Fabia AFAIK, which I am very, very glad about as the VWŠkoda computer programs on the car already bug the excrement out of me without anything else communicating or interfering with the car or my wife's mobile (so called "smart", it's not) phone. Some items listed on a "service" bill as just blanket form filling and never go to the car, had that a few times over the decades, if you question it the usual reply is that the "service" is fixed priced and the items listed are available to be used even if not used, bit like the old hotel stuff, similar in some ways to the ticksheets from "services" with tyre tread increasing from one ticksheet to the next despite the additional mileage on them and the full tread on the non-existent spare wheel/tyre, that one's just 'form filling protocol'. ☺️

It might be fine but you want semi-hardening, I am sure there are many overlaps in performance for all these different sealants but given the low cost I would go with what is designed for purpose, water leaks can take ages to really show themselves by which time a lot of damage and mess (and smells) can already be done. Soundproofing hidden under carpets can sometimes hold an amazing amount of water before the soles of your shoes get damp.

You do have to fully recharge and best to use a lower amperage, 4-amp is good, 2-amp is better but obviously take almost twice as long to fully charge, you could go up to 6-amps but not so good. CU Given you do not know the fully history of the use of the car and battery previously and some people use, abuse, neglect items more than others you might be better to get a new battery and start from fresh and then you know for sure. Bosch I believe is just the label, I am told they are probably Varta so goo d to go with if correct specification for your model. As you are looking at what we call a type 027 then in Tayna battery supplier as for petrol engines. Bosch in their catalogue list the S4 E05 as 60 Ah, 640 CCA (EN), you put. I put a Tosch sorry Bosch (Varta) battery in my wife's 2015 Fabia and other owners have and Varta and find them to be good. - https://cdn.tayna.com/datasheets/Bosch Car Battery Range.pdf I suggest fully charging the new replacement battery before fitting it to the car but most would not bother with that, I prefer to know I started at full rather than close to it. Do read the car's Owner's Manual before disconnecting the old battery and connecting the new battery, best to have all electrics switched off and windows and sunroof fully shut then there will be less to reset. You should get the new battery coded in. The only things that matter really are that the Ah is correct and you change or advance the "serial number" often ten ones from factory (1111111111) easiest is just to change the end digit to 2 (1111111112). Other than use, abuse, neglect wearing the battery prematurely if the charging system is OK there was a VWŠkoda balls-up with "battery maintenance" so a Recall on my wife's 2015 (CU97(?) IIRC) so you could check if VWŠkoda have admitted to he same for your call. - Škoda Recall Campaigns - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns Otherwise there could be a drain from the car dashcam, your start/stop defeat(?), leaving something on - another reason I like to start knowing the new battery was fully charged when I fitted it in case I need to check or have more reserve for drain or car charging system issues (though I would do a check on the car's charging if I was really concerned things can get missed). As I (think I) put before a 2021 car has a lot more on it than a 2014 car or even 2017 so more wearing on car's battery and charging system but the use of an appropriate charger maintainer, following the car's Owner's Manual and charger instructions, particularly in a preventative manner when/where required should greatly extend the useful life of the battery certainly beyond 3 years or VW's 4 or 5 years recommendations. I think I have covered everything but if you want to know more just ask others or I can try to give you answers.

I'd forgotten that, a typo or laziness of not clearing previous entry on that form perhaps everywhere else that I can remember has it as a 90hp (66KW) CJZC.

I accept you could highly dilute the vinegar and then thoroughly rinse with water but just a word of caution you don't want to use vinegar if there is a chance that there might be some rubber involved.

This can often be the case. Either the new sensor might not be fully appropriate and/or a lot of new stuff is poorly made and it is chance how well it works, or at all. Sometimes (not always) you can be better sticking with an original part than replacing with a new part, even regardless of the manufacturer or manufacturer's label on the box. As a general rule for me always Japanese over Chinese or German for these sort of things (and generally).

Thanks, I'll try to get my wife to do that as she forgets to ask them for a paper print out (more reliable and instant that digital transfers) of the "Complete record" which I want for our records. I'll see how long it takes for a reply (and how long for my wife to send the email, probably quickly if the laptop is open now. The Dealership did give a paper printed copy of the "individual record" (as shown above) without being asked as they probably got used to us old folk (my wife and I as examples) wanting paper records and not digital or as well as, how odd the crumblies are they must think. My wife is always in too much of a rush to get out of the place to ask and wait for a print out of the "complete record" and I can't blame her for that.

I was just about to put a link (for the product data sheet) from the same page you have linked to (other examples and suppliers are also available) this one is particularly handy as you can use it in the wet such as when it's raining or you are water testing to find the leak. - https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1399542O?&fn=3m-windscreen-sealer-08509-technical-datasheet-en-eu_0820_R3.pdf The main thing is to be semi-hardening, that the sealant remain pliable to deal with heat and cold expansion and contraction, you don not want the stuff that bonds modern windscreens without rubber seals. Before using that you could try small amounts of very warm water to loosen and perhaps flush out some debris first as that coil has quite a blunt end that might compact debris in drain channels/tubes. For bottom of doors and underside of car or sill drains I start by using an appropriate size plastic cable-tie as those are plastic and flexible so should not scratch paint and they have a slim pointed end that will more easily push through and past debris giving more chance of extracting the debris rather than compacting it. Also it's a very low cost tool that can be cleaned and used again. I've also used old bits of electric cable and garden wire, always make the end does not have a sharp edge to it that would scratch, I bend the end over to act as a push scraping tool always after the very warm water softening. loosening, treatment. I have solved "leaks" this way a few times on various cars.

That not best, when you bought it it didn't have the cumulative effect of all those short runs but 70k-miles is more than my wife's 2015 and it goes fine, turbo fine, engine not sluggish even when cold (but it is allowed to fully warm up, 90+C oil temperature) before being pushed, 90 hp 1.2 TSI 5-speed. About around 44mpg IIRC, lots of just 2-mile journeys. What is a short run, does your oil temperature get up to 90+C for a reasonable part of those runs? Has your car got one of those GDF/PPF ( gasoline/petrol particulate filter or called summat like that) things (I can never remember which ones do)? As already asked, what are all the tyre pressures like, when were the spark plugs changed, when was the engine air filter last changed, what's the history mileage/time interval of engine oil and filter changes? Dragging brakes or partially blocked exhaust but you might notice those on oil temperature if not the 90C biased coolant temperature (see a theme here). Not directly related to this but change or at least check of brake fluid, inspection at least of brakes are more important than anything on the engine - brakes, steering, suspension (all three incudes tyres) then safety electrics, lights, reflective number plates, windows and mirrors (see and be seen) all more important than engine, but back to engine. Does your start/stop system always activate when it should? Nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition, but more questions are to get more information, sudden 20% drop in mpg has to have a reason (the actual mpg isn't as relevant in this case as there are so many variables to comparisons) I can easily get my neighbour's car to lower mpg with him as a passenger just for the fun of twinging his natural Yorkshire nature, and also demonstrated to him that (off cruise control which I never use, I did once in the 1980s but I didn't like it) ignoring the cars suggested gear selections (6-manual) can improve mpg as the biological electronic brain knows more than the car's computer program and inputs (well for now anyway).

Checked fuse box for corrasion, damp, water and all electric wires, cables, switches connections (and earths) are all clean. secure and protected. Tried wiggle and heat tests. Tried voltage drop tests other side of switches, relays, wires, cables, connections. Tried testing before and after load(s). There was a great video showing how to test but I can't find it now so the following video gives the general idea and it's always worth starting at the battery and then battery terminals to see what voltage the battery actually is at to see what is lost at any point on the car, the more joints from the battery the more likelihood of very minor acceptable drops. Obviously if you are testing lots of items and using them to test then gradually the battery may lose some voltage too. For any electrical or engine starting diagnostics it is best to have the car battery fully charged before you start or at least at a reasonable level of charge, particularly if using heavy electric loads (like starting the engine) multiply times (bit like not having enough fuel for sufficient test drive(s). A brand new "12v" car battery in various circumstances fully charged not fitted to the car or charged within days might show 12.7v-12.9v. Voltage Drop Test - Jeremy Greene -

They are there, if you mean the following, just click on the links in that post. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/306505-felicia-windscreen-leaks/#comment-3661445

Took a bit longer as I couldn't find a shilling for the 'lectric meter. The following is of the "8yr/80,000 mile service" (and the digital "Individual record" for that "service") just as an example, I have records of other "services" some with added maintenance stuff, that I had to get my wife to ask them to do as they didn't follow their own schedules, and some humorous ticksheets (tyres interesting) of work done and "work required" if you need other examples. Any images that's not clear I can do 'bigger' to make it clear. "Services" for just the engine are of lower importance than other more important components on the car like brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres), lights, safety electrics, reflective numberplates, windows and mirror (see and be seen) engine especially diesel can puff along (smoke) for ages and often need more attention to keep them (a bit) cleaner than Dealers/garages/mechanics servicing schedules. and intervals.

Easy but nothing is quick with me (except perhaps the first half going down, sometimes too quick). In Blue Peter fashion "here's some I prepared earlier" then I have a chore to attend to and then I'll crank up the scanner. A "Complete record" of digital record from a VWŠkoda Dealership -

Either way would be good as a restart of furtherance but not everyone has the facilities (in many senses) to do so and of course it would appear that possibly again those in or associated to the motor trade haven't perhaps been as successful as one would hope in their endeavours, to keep it polite. Pity there aren't more people doing a decent job (and attitude to their work and customers) in the motor trade, whether it's worse or better now than at other points in time is too difficult to tell, but it can be even more wearing on those that are not fully well health wise and have to rely on them.

Just seen I left an important word out (how very unlike me).

I would only take real ale tokens but I no longer have access to my neighbour's scan tool (which I almost always had to update and recharge the battery) otherwise I'd gladly do scan reports, error codes deletes and battery 'coding' where possible (he only needed it for 1996 and 2005 vehicles but I and other neighbours benefitted from it with newer cars) but the selfish devil moved away and took it with (along with all his garage tools including the 4 or 5 foot breaker bar. Try the link I put up before - For the battery a good clear (landscape) photo of the battery, from above it, might give enough detail to it, or perhaps make and model number of it from the KwikFit bill. I once whilst commuting had to take a car in to have some brake work done with priority at a KwikFit branch, by the time I got to my home town I took the car straight to a local branch to complain about the (balls-up) work done earlier and have it corrected. At the branch that done wrong, big burley, obviously untrained/undertrained, bloke doing the work at home branch quite by good luck a small young lady that done a great job, if it was possible I would always want to go to an all-female garage, as a total generalisation they have a much, much, better attitude to customers and work than many/most men that work in the motor trade.

Looks like you're over-qualified to work there at repairs then !! 😆 Sometimes you just gotta laff at these idiots, especially when they really insult your intelligence, or that of any pet anyone has.

A "service" is just an engine oil and filter change and a look-see for more chargeable work (the "free health check" often offered, if it's had a "full car road test" then that would show up on your milage (if you know what it was when you left the car with them. Who knows how many or much diagnostics checks actually get done, I'm not saying they don't do them but I can't remember seeing any evidence (perhaps I have and forgot, no printed evidence with my wife's 2015 car), For extended scope you might or might not be able to see evidence of the wheels being removed and doors lubricated (a job you'd probably do better yourself). As for £330 for a battery replacement you could possibly get it done twice or more elsewhere, including any necessary 'coding' if you own an appropriate battery charger and maintainer and fully recharge the battery with it after reading the car's Owner's Manual and charger maintainer's booklet instructions, if done properly you may well get much more good serviceable life out of the battery with just very occasional future preventative recharges using the charger maintainer - but of course I can't know this and you may prefer to change the battery anyway if it's the factory original. If you want I can scan in some Dealership "service" bills to show how they were for my wife's 2015 Fabia bills and put them up as images/photos here, just let me know. After decades of poor and very poor service, and being ripped-off, by some of those in the British (well English motor trade) and hearing stories from people I know who work/worked in the trade for decades I really dislike to see customers done down (of course not all customers are exactly angels i know this from decades of experience too).

Have I missed something, how did it pass an MoT if a seat belt (anchorage /stalk??) couldn't be tested? - https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/7-other-equipment#section-7-1-2

Was their scan tool fully up to date for your model and year as a previous thread here had "000271 - Permanent Unknown fault code" which changed to lots more info once the scan tool program was updated. I would check elsewhere with an appropriate VW scan tool to see what codes come up (and to confirm battery and sensors 'coding' is correct. My wife's 2015 MK3 doesn't have separate individuals tyre pressure sensor as part of the tyre values, it is all off the wheel sensor. After the battery was fitted did you try starting the engine, then turn on your headlights and air-con and blower to 4 then turn the steering wheel to full lock in each direction and then go for a ride to see if this would clear warning lights, messages (and codes)? Some Briskoda members with VW appropriate scan tools can offer help for beer tokens, few others are professional service so will want more than beer tokens, see attached link to see if you can find anyone near you that can help. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029 And never assume anything as that can be a very costly and time consuming way of diagnosis always check, double check, cross-reference only make assumptions if you must after full and complete checks. Good luck. Have a look at the appropriate videos of how this chap does diagnosis and then checks and cross-references the results of how it should be done. - https://www.youtube.com/@mrautoservices7354/videos

That is very common, in case you take your business elsewhere but it's a matter of minutes and seconds to get your email address or similar and 'post' the report to you. Whatever machine is used it needs to be up to date with your model and year of car. Different scan tools can give different results but communication errors should be on all of them, then they need to find out why there's no communication. Any engine starting issues and/or electric/electronic/computer issues you need the car's "12v" battery to be in an at least reasonable state of charge to keep the computers happy which is well below that to keep the headlights looking bright enough and far, far below the engine showing any difficulty or not starting. Looking for the issues and repeated attempts to start the car will drain the "12v" battery even more which is why they may have kept the engine running whilst doing any work - but testing or looking at at battery output is a primary check which you hope they would do, but might not. Checking the "12v" battery charge is very easy you do not need to be a mechanic or an electrician to do it (I'm neither) and it's been a basic primary check for mechanics and auto-electricians ever since cars got battery(ies) to start them and even more important now that the cars have so many modules, sensors and complex computer programs on them. Unfortunately good Dealerships/garages/mechanics/auto-electricians seem to be fewer and further between than they should be and usually have more work than they can cope with so have waits even longer than the poorer quality ones. The very first thing I would do is fully charge the "12v" battery with an appropriate charger maintainer with following the car's Owner's Manual and charger, maintainer's instructions. If the battery is really low this may take many hours. if the battery isn't too low it wont take too many hours. I would then look for a reliable person with an appropriate scan tool (checking it's fully updated for model and years, and it's battery is fully charged if it's not powered off the car battery. With a confirmed at least reasonable charged battery and a scan report or better still looking at live data to check things like alternator is charging properly and other stuff related to the car's issue(s) and then work from there. Just because you weren't given a report doesn't mean it wasn't saved to the machine and still available, if you paid for diagnosis then I don't think it's unreasonable for you to be given that report - but I'm not in the motor trade where customers are often treaded like something they've trod in that smells, of course on the other side not all customers are angels. I'm not sure you can be given much more info or advice than that already given but others might have more to offer and please ask any questions you want.

Yes VWŠkoda not having appropriate information for your vehicle based on your VIN yet again confirms that websites and databases even from manufacturers can't be fully trusted and the information needs checking and cross-referencing. I've no idea if the on line updates (updates, wot could possibly go wrong) apply to year, trim level, infotainment model so as not to confuse myself I bang up the portal and what's not applicable wont apply. I'll try to remember not to bother with Mk4s but my memory's not the best, as reliable as the VW update portal for your VIN. 😆