Former

Have you looked on the following and then see whose near you and current, most amateur member who might just want beer tokens, some professional so more required. With anyone with a scan tool do check it is suitable for your model and year and that it is fully up to date with software updates particularly for your model and year. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me)

If you put your engine code into a search you should/could get a list of which other vehicles it went in.

Until someone else comes along my first thoughts are - the Wireless Carplay Android Auto 2 in 1 Smart Dongle Adapter might be faulty you are combining three bits of computer stuff and their programming, any one of those or a combination or permutation of those may not work well together do the ports and plugs go together and are a good tight fit, solid reliable connection are the dongle, phone and Swing radio fully up to date with software updates. Are you able to test the dongle in another car with another phone to confirm it works properly. Then are you able to use the dongle with a different phone in your Fabia to see if there is any difference. Just a possible processes of elimination. At home I keep a "smart" phone repair kit, it is a 2 lbs (1 kg) lump hammer and a 4" (10 cm) nail, I think the best place for a "smart" phone with a car is under one of the tyres. 😁 I used a car phone in the late 1980s, and SatNavs in 1990s and had my fill of them then and in some ways the phones are not much better now than they were then but more annoying now with all the other stuff on them. But as always each to their own, I hope you sort things,

Not always the case, obviously I don't know with your son's battery but a lot of these so-called "smart" chargers ain't that smart (same as "smart" phones) and they need to see certain levels of voltage or they think the battery is "dead" and unrecoverable. Some of these voltages can be quite high considering, some chargers actually bother to tell you how low they go in their instructions but there are ways of getting around the "smart" charger to get them to do their work. 8 years isn't necessarily that old for a battery but it does depend on a lot of variables including the car and the owner/driver(s). I'm with you for SteveTheElder's battery, if there's no battery monitoring and start/stop I'd take the battery off the car and fully charge it - or charge it on the car but again fully, if I hadn't the time available and/or needed to use the car to fully charge it in one go then I'd fully charge it in the second go as soon as possible after the first go. Low and slow to fully charged is what's required for best results and longer reliable battery life. Any recharging is better than none but quick (higher amps) partial recharging isn't best.

Until a couple of years ago, for 16 years, my daily and only car was a 1973 MG Midget so very little electric stuff on it, though it did have interior and boot lights and an alternator (a number of weeks older and it would have been a dynamo) those luxuries weren't on my 1969 Spridget that I used as a daily in the mid-1990s, I never had any battery issues with those cars. I've been charging elderly neighbours' car batteries for decades now and helping those younger that don't know or have forgot so was experienced with this but this needs 'coding' to change the battery was all new to me when my wife got the start/stop Fabia. This gave me a level of annoyance and inconvenience as I was yet to have a neighbour with a higher level scan tool and had to seek help from a Briskoda member to do the 'coding'. Thus the learning on this began with the usual level of missing info from VW and I wasn't confident with the info I got from a BMW "technician" (the husband of my wife's boss) who wasn't sure!

Hi, welcome. Sorry but I do not have the first clue about such things as - be prepared for a shock - I have never owned a so-called "smart" phone but until someone else posts, if you have not done so already, you could look at similar posts and topics on this forum, that your thread/post is on (Skoda Fabia Mk III (2014-2021)) or do a Google search which might bring you back here, to see if they help. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/298-skoda-fabia-mk-iii-2014-2021/

About 26 days before is a good time to renew. The nearer you get to renewal date the higher the premium and less offers from insurers to draw you to them. Avoiding certain times can also save you on premiums. Adjusting your excess can not only save you on premiums but also on excess, adjusting excess figures to a certain extent may not alter the premium (i.e less excess for same premium cost). Things that can help, like having other driver(s) on the policy (subject to age, etc.) and you having access to drive other car(s), trying a different job title, employment type, . . . obviously you must be honest in all you do. I can assure you from my wife's accident earlier this year (THE afternoon of the night the new insurance was to be placed!!) will being open claim increase your renewal premium, a lot. Have a look at Money Saving Expert for tips. Also, we went trough TopCahback's Compare site and got insurance via one of the big comparison sites and got a quote very slightly less than if we didn't go through TopCashback Compare for exactly the same insurer and policy and last year we got £42 back from TopCashback this year £45. Last year we could have picked a policy that was about 25% less (we have low premiums and protected NCD) but I'm glad we were never tempted (not that we would have been given decades of experience) as we had to claim on that policy in its last month and everything was so easy and dealt with so well, worth even more than the 25% difference. https://www.moneysavingexpert.com/latesttip/ https://www.topcashback.co.uk/topcashback-compare/

@SteveTheElder something I forgot, to help decided if it's worth recharging your battery. If you don't have start/stop then you might have (no battery monitoring, so no 'coding') a standard battery and it might be possible to look at each of the battery's 6 cells to check the "water/acid" (electrolyte) levels in each cell to check they are at the correct level and also the state of the plates in each cell. Often if the battery is not sealed the screw off cell covers are just under the sticky top label(s) and you only need to peel the label(s) back to see them. If the plates in the cell(s) are buckled (usually end cell) then you could still recharge the battery to give more time and battery but you do want to replace the battery ASAP. Obviously for any of above required safety precautions should be taken. If standard battery I would take the battery off the car to recharge it if possible. Before fitting a new battery to a car I always fully charge it, if it's already "fully charged" then this won't take long at all, if I'm fitting a new battery I want to know it was as good as it could be when I fitted it. For new battery unless you're not keeping the car long get the best battery you can, don't be fooled by impressive figures for CCA, you need to compare apples with apples so you want to check and compare the CCA figures given as EN. And look for the manufacturers leaflets/catalogues for these figures as suppliers don't always give the correct figures. Ah figures don't have different systems of specification so provided they are correct you are comparing apples with apples. Do bear in mind both are quoted for when the battery is new, a better battery will sustain nearer its new figures for longer with age and use.

Yeap that could be so, I put best to get the battery 'coded' really for start/stop monitoring but many don't and report no issues, who knows without monitoring the battery and seeing it full life how much odds the 'coding' or not 'coding' makes and how long the computer takes to learn the battery has improved so much and in the meantime has much life might have been shaved off the new battery, I suspect very little but I have no proof of that and I have a theory to get around that but no proof. I'm not saying that it's not possible to get a faulty battery but that would be very rare, more that something external would be the cause. You could get a lot more reliable life but it does depend on a few variables. As for testing on the battery terminals that is what I always suggest but you do want a tested (for conformation) tester and to do this as many hours after the battery has been recharged as possible and allow say 0.2v or 0.3v draw of the car's systems. This does remind me of something I meant to put in my previous post. I have recovered batteries at much, much lower voltages, this is not always possible with many modern "smart" chargers (unless you trick them) but old battery chargers can do it with a good stock of both time and patience. I may not trust the batteries taken down to extremely low voltages for much use and certainly not on a modern German marque car (such as VWŠkoda) even if they're not start/stop. Slight correction there, 12v would be low, a new battery fully charged (not all new batteries are fully charged when fitted) would show before fitting 12.7v /12.8v perhaps even 12.9v depending on a few variables. Here is a VW battery voltage list. - "Charge level No-load voltage 1.28 g/cm3 100% 12.7 V 1.21 g/cm3 60% 12.3 V 1.18 g/cm3 40% 12.1 V 1.10 g/cm3 0% 11.7 V" HTH.

Before considering changing the battery, possibly prematurely, why not try a slow (time), low (amperage) full recharge of the battery using an appropriate battery charger maintainer, following the instructions in the car's 'Owners Manual' and for the charger maintainer. This might require two things that many don't keep much stock of and might not have one or the other, or for some both, time and patience. If the battery is in a low state of charge it might take many hours to fully recharge slow and low perhaps overnight and more or 24+ or more. It also depends on what you mean by 'tired', if you mean the battery uses a bit of time and effort or struggles to start the engine then the battery is very low in charge and if this situation has been going on for a while or has happened before then the battery might also be in a lower state of health too, You can possibly get more good life out of the battery even then by the low slow recharge to full with an an appropriate battery charger maintainer, following the instructions in the car's 'Owners Manual' and for the charger maintainer but it does depend on the level of use/abuse and neglect the battery's had. For 'coding;, if your battery has a monitoring connection on the battery earth terminal connector then it'd be best to get it 'coded' even if replacing with the same type of battery (standard/EFB/AGM) and (about) the same amps hours (Ah). What you need to do when disconnecting/reconnecting your battery and what needs to be reset will be in your car's 'Owner's Manual' normally even if it has the radio it's not required but that depends perhaps and certainly if you have put in an after market radio. Basically make sure all electric windows are fully closed, sunroof fully closed and all electrics are switched off before you disconnect the battery and there shouldn't be a lot to do other than perhaps time of day clock. In your car's 'Owner's Manual' if it has for recharging the battery to connect to an a body earth point that might be a sign you have battery monitoring. Let us know how you get on whether trying recharging or replacement.

You might be better looking, searching and/or asking on the 'Skoda Favorit, Skoda Felicia, Skoda Fun and Skoda Forman' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/90-skoda-favorit-skoda-felicia-skoda-fun-and-skoda-forman/

Hi, welcome. Do not worry about your English it is very good and thank you for posting in English on an English language site. Sorry but I do not have the first clue about such things as - be prepared for a shock - I have never owned a so-called "smart" phone but until someone else posts, if you have not done so already, you could look at similar posts and topics on this forum, that your thread/post is on (Skoda Fabia Mk III (2014-2021)) or do a Google search which might bring you back here, to see if they help. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/298-skoda-fabia-mk-iii-2014-2021/ Also great to see you use the camera phone appropriately (in landscape not portrait) and give lots of info and a photo. You may need to put which software version you have but I have no idea if that would matter for your issue. Good luck.

Which did you choose?

Hopefully s/h unit is in UK so less than £24 P&P. I'd clean and GT85 it in all the necessary places before fitting it, and of course test full operation a good few times before and after installation. The fault might be under the shaft assembly which might be folded on to the bracket by look of your photo, time might tell.

Ouch. I meant the VWŠkoda Dealership that could be run by several companies (in name at least) our local one is called Marshall (at the moment). - https://www.skoda.co.uk/dealers/marshall-skoda-northampton In your photo, it might just be a covering but it's twisted on top cable bit, the inner plastic sleeve with flange might have some kinda locating in the black arc bit, but you may just have slipped that out anyway. When you get the new part if you want to you could compare it to the broken part and be able to take the broken part, er, apart, perhaps the bearing under the winder shaft. If sufficient interest and time you might let us know how you get on and perhaps a photo of what you found to be at fault. Cheers, good luck.

Hi, welcome Steve. Is there a part number on it that could help your search. It might not be as expensive as think if you check with the parts department of your local VWŠkoda Dealer, I've found some prices there for genuine new parts are good enough to chase round elsewhere and have delivery delays (obviously check availability and delivery with the Dealers). Is there no way good quality penetrating/releasing and lubrication like GT85 might free up the metal, plastic and cable bits. - https://gt85.co.uk/ ETA: The very often used WD-40 Multi-Use isn't such a good or long lasting lubricant. As when my wife first got her 2015 Fabia one of the rear window winders stuck a bit when I tried it and as the rear seats would only very occasional be used, and then not by the types to have the windows down, I make it a habit of occasionally opening the rear doors and fully winding the windows down and up again at least once. Mechanical items like these are best exercised and especially as I've found some VW parts not to be so well made and long lasting, and I didn't believe in the out-dated German and VW engineering and build quality belief anyway.

Unless the battery in your new car is better it might be the same or worse. It's rare to get bad batteries now usually it the owner/keepers letting the battery get too low in charge and too low too often. Whether VW had computer program issues before or used undersized batteries I don't know, I know there was a (rare admitted VW) Recall on my wife's car (97CU) which my wife was told "was for the battery". The number one cause for AA breakdown call outs is for batteries, the actual cause will very rarely actually be the battery mostly by far it will be owner/driver use, abuse and neglect of the battery. RAC says the they deal with more flat batteries on the first working day of each year (post-Christmas) than on any other day. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/519903-flat-batteries-on-the-first-working-day-of-each-year As always every one can do as they please on such things as car batteries and believe or not whatever they like, I just give my advice from decades of experience if some find it unacceptable that's fine. 😇

There are many variables, time of year and temperatures will make some difference. As I put before a battery that is good enough to start the car doesn't mean it's on a good state of charge and health. If you're not keeping the car long and/or a need to change the battery and 'coding' aren't a concern then that's fine. The life of the battery will have been diminished against had the car not stood still so long or if the battery had been disconnected. I'd not suggest trying such a thing with a modern VW car.

Over here we would call them a 2 way momentary rocker switch and have a wiring diagram for such depending on type chosen. ETA: the switch only holds at centre position, both side positions have to be held down as they spring the switch back to centre position if not. Scrub that just realised I was thinking of windows, old man's mind drift.

Sorry I thought all this was aftermarket parts I had no idea the Škoda stuff was still available (or already in the car).

Yes cutting costs like legal cover and guaranteed hire is fine until you need to make a claim, as you put Sod's Law often applies. You obviously accept that if you have a 2.0l, 220 PS car then insurance premiums will reflect this. No matter what type of cover the better the insurer you buy your policy from the less work you'll need to do and the more they will do for you, and unfortunately visa-versa. I'm afraid you will have to let things work through the systems and processes, doesn't mean you can't keep checking and trying to reduce delays but even getting the car repair started isn't as quick as it used to be but if the work is done by the major repairers the quality should be good, smaller concerns who knows. Do you have any legal cover from elsewhere such as another insurance or a bank account or a car club you're a member of? Not if you have a NCD protection that only allows x accidents in y years Hopefully it won't be too long before you get your car back then the blame and money chase can really begin. Let us know when there's progress or you need more advice or help. Good luck.

There must be typing errors in above as API that start with S are for "spark" ignition (spark plugs) and API that start with C are for "compression" ignition (the dirty evil diesel). Just look up and cross reference with two or three reputable engine oil providers for your car and see what oil they suggest with such a newish car unless VW have made more mistakes the databases should be about correct. VW and Germany make things more complicated by having their own specification standards and numbers (and part numbers) for things like oils and coolant these are in addition to to the recognised standards of others. You want a good suitable engine oil (and other oils) for your car if it also meets the VW dictates of their specification numbers systems that is fine. Castrol is just a commercial recommendation, if you want it fine but if you prefer better then it does not have to be a Castrol product. A better oil will help more but a lesser oil will help less. whether you care what comes out of the exhaust or not. Good luck.

6 years old need not be very old for a battery, it depends on it's use/abuse and possible neglect. With the more modern cars the battery has to be really on its arse for it not to start the car but that doesn't mean the battery is good just good enough to start the car. Perhaps your battery is good, without testing/readings that is an assumption though, same as it hasn't been affected. A 6 year old car generally has less on it than a 2024 car and 2022 car. If you left your 2022 car for two months you might notice more - or perhaps you wouldn't without taking readings. As I put my neighbours car's battery wasn't good more like 5.5 cells out of 6 when I first looked at it and it wouldn't improve by later being left longer to drain - but the car would have started easily and lights seem bright enough (not measured). The car was only just over three years old (2021) and presumably (never dated) the battery not much older. Not that I follow all the dictates of VW but the 2018 Karoq 'Owner's Manual' has - "If the vehicle is not used for longer than 3 to 4 weeks, then disconnect the negative terminal  or charge the battery constantly with a very low charging current". 2022 Kamiq Owner's Manual has - "Functionality – Protection against discharge of the 12 volt vehicle battery Possible causes for the discharge of the 12 volt vehicle battery Worn 12 volt vehicle battery Frequent short journeys Low temperatures Vehicle stationary for a long period of time Recommended measure to be taken when vehicle is stationary for more than three weeks Disconnect the [ negative ] terminal of the 12 volt vehicle battery."

Yeap, great. I'm not sure how you didn't get it with what you've typed in the above quote. Type the @ and, no space, follow with C - h - and so on (no spaces) until the name appears on the drop down list, the more characters you type the nearer to the top of the list the name you want. It acts like a shout out if you're not quoting the person you want to see your post. You can also edit and add to your post (for a certain period, unless you're a Freedom or Freedom Lite member then IIRC no restriction, by clicking on the three dots at the top right corner of your post and if you want give a reason for your edit in the 'reason for edit' box below the post. With that jack I like the 2 ton and it being read (unless you want to colour match a black car 🙂) but not the flat top with just two dimples, a groove with give more reassurance, Even on flat solid ground scissor jack can become unstable when wound up to a high position particularly if a wheel is stubborn to remove and a bit of force is needed to release it I put smears of grease or spray protect the contact surfaces, obviously you don't want any loose and going on to brake discs. Personally I prefer not to use a scissor jack unless it's to support or position other components whilst the car is held on stands or ramps or perhaps a trolley jack if stuff at the front wheels. My wife's Fabia doesn't have a jack or brace and spare wheel, just a manual foot pump next to the annoying noisy electric pump and I've not carried a spare wheel or associated tools in most of my cars for more than two decades.

Did you scroll down to the bottom of the page to see the differences of the FP to CUK and CU filters. - https://www.mann-filter.com/au-en/catalog/search-results/product.html/fp26010_mann-filter.html Where did you see the FP at £10? I've just tried removing the cabin filter in my wife's 2015 and I must say it was very easy and very quick. A torch or light is required as like many things on the car you are looking at black against black in a dark area. When I just tried the top edge of the passenger footwell carpet just caught the far side of the filter retaining cover to tilt it making the short front side catch a little making me wonder about the withdraw angle and plastic bits fragility for a second until I felt the rebound on the carpet edge. Getting car open, torch and and kneeling pad from shed, removing existing filter and (if I had one) removing new filter from box and fitting it and packing away would be a genuine 5 minutes depending on how far to the shed and how easy to find stuff (I keep the inspection lamp charged ready for use). You may want to add some time if you need to clean and sanitise(?) the filter housing area or vacuum up bits that go on the footwell floor To be fair it would be the easiest and least awkward cabin filter change of the few I've done.