Former

Just to remind you, when taking a photo it is generally best if you take it in landscape not portrait as above) as this generally shows more. In this case I see a strut brace that looks newer than the car but I could well be wrong, where strut braces standard to the car from factory?

Are you just looking for fashionable cosmetic improvements or for the (whole) car to go better?

@Felicia98noob a couple of things I can mention now given your willingness for information. A water pump was fitted but do you know for sure it was the correct water pump and installed correctly and is functioning fully and correctly now. Also many modern made parts for old cars can be of poor, ****-poor or abysmal quality (example pump impellors break), not all parts but too many. A 26+ year old car with only 70,000km (44,000 miles) is extremely low mileage so that could be from both very short journeys and periods of total lack of use, cars are not designed for this so the low mileage and use causes issues and problems that a car with more and regular use probably will not have. The car will need regular use in a way that takes the very low mileage into consideration until the issues of that type of use, and age are reasonably sorted. From 30+ years of experience of using various 25 to 50 year old cars as daily use I have found the best way is to carry out a staged 60,000/120,000 whole car service check plus thorough cleaning and replacement of fluids that many, including the car manufacturer say are "lifetime", like gearbox oil, power steering, fluid (dampers were appropriate). Whilst carrying out service and maintenance work and checks you will find and resolve some issues just from this work and checks. All this is done whilst still regularly using the car that will highlight priorities.. And never to assume that any part that has been fitted after the car left the factory is the correct part, is fitted correctly or that it is functioning as it should or fully even if it is working. That experience cost me many tens of thousands of pounds but you have it for free now.

Radiator needs to be clear and clean inside and out. There could restriction(s) to the coolant flow in the radiator, and/or the rest of system, I've even known of rags and paper being left in engines after service work or parts fitted, they can allow some flow though but not enough A rag to cover IRRC cylinder(s) (on a 400cc 4-cylinder Suzuki motorbike engine) by a warranty insisted serviced at sellers caused the need for the engine to be replaced. Have you done head gasket failure tests yet? For burping, from a previous thread. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/511704-glitters-inside-my-coolant-expansion-tank/page/3/#comment-5855095 For my method of thorough cooling/heating system cleaning, you will need to adapt it a little for your car or pick and choose what bits you do and how much.- https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/511704-glitters-inside-my-coolant-expansion-tank/page/3/#comment-5854729

Parts can vary so much from one model and year to others you might need a VIN to be exact but for this try a look at links for perhaps parts description or to see if it's part of an assembly, er, part. Note these usually refer to left hand drive vehicles. https://www.skoda-parts.com/catalog/octavia-3/spare-parts/electrical-equipment/lights/taillights-500.html https://7zap.com/en/catalog/cars/Skoda/Octavia/Octavia (2014 - 2017)/ Or you could try looking and or asking on the 'Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020)' forum of this site. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-2020/ HTH.

Don't believe any paperwork on this before your ownership, check the plugs are newish and of the correct type (and genuine) and have been gapped correctly. Good to have good levels, check the brake fluid isn't too discoloured (certainly not black) and doesn't have a too high moisture content. Engine oil you can't know too much about unless you put in the engine but engine is nowhere near as important as brakes. Good idea on a 10 year old car let alone 25+, same for power steering fluid and of course coolant. That is a lot more than most would do but cleaning and forward and back flushing is better, and for the engine block, and inspecting and cleaning the radiator and heater matrix exterior fins good. I don't think the problems is with cleaning but just in case and for future use see this post I've put before. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/511704-glitters-inside-my-coolant-expansion-tank/page/3/#comment-5854729 The wiring of this potentially could cause all sorts of issues but that depends on how it was done, it might be fine and no issues.

@Felicia98noob with a car that is 25 years old, with the age, use and particularly previous owners there are so many variables that have affected the car to how it is now, with just forum posts usually there are few instant answers, you have been a range of good information but no one has seen your car and are not standing in front of it or driving or passenger seat so can not see, hear, smell, taste, feel or touch your car. Each issue may (or may not) have more than one cause to it too. So normally information is given, questions asked then more information based on the answers given, it's a process of diagnostics from a distance. Doing patch repairs is all well and good to keep the car useable but sooner rather than later full investigation and rectification is required for best outcomes and general reliable use of the car. Doing full and proper servicing (and maintenance) and checks of the whole car, whilst also using the car, will help highlight, find and fix issues sooner which will reduce further issues and problems that exist now or may occur later. Servicing is not just an engine oil and oil filter change, that does not even fully service the engine let alone the whole car. Each part, component or system that is operating at least reasonably will help with other parts, components and systems operation. Much of servicing and maintenance and some repairs boil down to clean and lubricate - that's basically what an engine oil (or other fluids) and oil filter change is and things like deleting error codes is cleaning. An example - but I don't have enough information from your post so may well be wrong - the headlight switch, I take as the column stalk switch to go from full beam to dip beam, this may, initially at least, be sorted with a little spray of electrical contact cleaner (or swich cleaner lubricant) and then using the switch repeatedly as this may clean the contact area if this is problem - anything like this is best done with the battery disconnected particularly on a car you don't know the history of.

22k-miles in say 7 years can bring it's own issues - low mileage, short journeys, infrequent use of a 2016 diesel car generally isn't a good thing for the engine (or possibly other bits of the car). The car and engine really needs more than the minimum annual servicing and maintenance that Dealerships do but some owners don't even carry this absolute minimum on out of warranty period. What is the service history of the car? Have you had the car scanned with an appropriate VW programmed scan tool with a fully up to date program for your model and year and got a report?

Are you sure you can't display this on the MAXI DOT display (between the two large dials, speedo and rev counter)? Have a look in your Owner's Manual of how to do this if it's available.

ETA: by-the-way, hi and welcome. Good photos of the car and the parts where you are having issues might help with resolving them and spot anything amiss - please take these photos in landscape (not portrait) as generally this shows more by getting more in the photos. Is the car standard or has it been modified or had changes or items added, a change or added electrical item(s) can mean someone has messed up the car's wiring or damaged something.

You want to give the whole car a 60,000 km or 120,000 km service/ check. You may need to do this in stages between driving the car. You should start with the important systems first, the brakes, steering and suspension - all three include the tyres - then on to safety electrics (lights, horns, wipers, blower, etc.) and glass (windscreen, window, mirrors) last should be trivia like the radio. Having a good battery in good state of connection (and secured in place) and good state of charge and health as this will help with starting, running of the engine and help with diagnosing and fixing electrical problems. The reverse issue could be any part of the linkage, perhaps gearbox low on oil, a clutch issue or your technique of selecting reverse gear. You certainly want to check the gearbox oil level and personally I would a thorough change of oil (all fluid changes should be thorough not just a quick cold drain and refill). I would also do a thorough clean and inspection of the whole cooling/heating system, inside and out, and a thorough clean, drain and refill of the coolant. Have you checked the radiator and cleaned it, checked the brakes are not dragging or the exhaust is partially blocked. The gauge showing 90 does not correspond with you saying the car overheats. The engine is also cooled by the engine oil so again a thorough change of engine oil (and oil filter) with perhaps if required some sort of cleaning. For engine also air filter and spark plugs. Also adjustment and lubrication of engine controls as required (includes accelerator pedal and cable). GT85 is a good lubricant and also penetrating/releasing fluid. Reading and referring to the Owner's Manual for the car (this is not the Workshop (repair) manual) will tell you a lot about the car and how to look after it and drive it. Have you driven any other Felicias (1.6 or not) to know how well your car should or could perform or owned and driven any other cars from the last century?

Thanks, I read your previous post as they were now including a standard jack as you illustrated, i.e. a generic jack. I'm sure there's been plenty of cent-pinching on the Mk3 and Mk4 otherwise, but I admit I'm biased not being a VW fan.

I was aware of the 25% figure but that doesn't mean necessarily that's what's on a 2015 or 2024(?) system, I think I've seen other computer systems on the car have a 25% margin but I don't know if that's correct but I do know designers, engineers and computer programmers don't always get everything right (despite what some of them believe in their own minds). 25% to me seems a wide margin for many things. I checked the tyres on the Fabia only the other day and the two rear tyres were slightly down, they are the newer tyres but as with the front have been OK, perhaps like me they don't do well in this heat. Personally I've never had a car with TPMS and have somehow survived, coming from a time when the driver was expected to check things and there wasn't a button on the dash that does everything for you. I'm more towards, but not at, the sharp spike on the steering wheel end of car and driver safety but I don't expect newer drivers who have never owned an old banger from the last century to be the same or understand this. I don't want a warning light but I do think the clever German engineers could have put something like a flexible measuring tag on the cap of the windscreen washer bottle as it is out of sight and only the filler tube neck on view but obviously that add to the build cost and eats into profits, dividends and expense accounts.

The indirect system on my wife's 2015 Mk3 Fabia seems to have very wide parameter(s) it should never be relied on and tyre pressures checked as usual, the one on my wife's car was very tardy in throwing up a warning, not really suitable for those that rely on the car's or other computers to tell them or remind them to drive and maintain the vehicle they are driving on the roads we all travel on.

Sign of cent (or fraction of cent) saving perhaps by VW, or supply issues, never would I suggest that it might be a further sign of further lowering of standards, I expect managers and directors expenses accounts remain at high levels. Used sensibly in appropriate conditions scissor jacks are fine but certainly first choice. Many years back I was given a Nissan (before Ren-No! but after Datsun) scissor jack and it was so well made I could raise a car a bit without the need of the lever handle, of course cars, and I, weren't so lardy then, I was a fool to give that jack away, so useful to support and locate components under the car too.

Hi, welcome. First verification, for reliable and more detailed error codes you do need to use a scan tool that has a VW program specific to your model and year and this program need to be fully updated. Has the car been fully and timely serviced, maintained and repaired, have the spark plugs been changed (perhaps twice now) and air filter? Is the car used for lots of short journeys? You are also best to have your car's 12v battery in good state of charge and health otherwise unexpected warnings and error codes may appear (not usually this tho'), the engine starting and headlights seeming bright enough does not necessarily mean that the battery is in a sufficient state of charge for the computers. If you have a scan tool have you tried clearing the error? There are members on the Briskoda forum that offer help with VW specific scan tools, most, but not all, can help for beer tokens with perhaps full reports / diagnosis / clear error codes. You could see if there's anyone close to you that can help from this link. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) If the P0341 error code is correct then it is a generic code so generalised information. - https://www.obd-codes.com/p0341 HTH.

Just seen I didn't put this well, these aren't loose storage boxes but the proper fixed compartments for the car, they came with the car. They are quite shallow, I think the umbrella that came with the car new goes in there, my wife's puts the reflective safety hi-viz vests in them.

The photo DerekU used as an example is more of a 'how not to do it', I'm not even sure it is a puck, but as put by others they're for use with a trolley jack and then you have to match the puck to both the jack and car seam, jacks have saddles that can be removed or changed. Just as one example only of a 'universal' puck. -

Can you not search by your VIN or engine type an/or number.

Quoted in case your question was missed by ham92. I hear a, like, catch(ing), hesitation noise at the starts of engines starting but I'd not have a clue what it is, other than perhaps annoying. Yes that makes complete sense. I've use a spray on things you're not supposed to, or not supposed to help, but they have (perhaps more washing grit/debris out, I've no idea) but they were effective cures even after year(s) of use but I can understand the hesitation in this case. The fine VW engineers would obviously have to have some very special solution to the mistake the belt manufacturer must have made and not them. 😁 But of course it could easily not be the belt anyway.

If you have anything under the seat(s) remove it, nothing should be under the seats other than perhaps the ends of someone's feet (and perhaps not even then if they have big feet, make them sit in the front or walk).

Absolutely everything about cars is a PITA and possibly literally (and back) if it involves road wheel removal with those bl**dy stupid wheel bolts instead of studs. I've just had a look at the underside of the front seats in my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 and I struggled to see the connectors under them let alone get at them, but I'm old. Possibly it's easier to see or get at them by removing the shallow plastic storage boxes on my wife's car but I don't know. You might have more room under your seats. I expect there might be videos about the connectors on the internet - but bear in mind your connector(s) might not be the problem, just a probability given the sparse info

It may require a higher level scan tool to reset it or perhaps to help diagnosis, or perhaps find the fault. The hyperlink at the end is of Briskoda members with VCDS and OBDEleven owners who may be able to help you with your scanner or a better level scanner, most but not all are not professional so may be able to sort / diagnosis/ do a report /clear codes / reset for beer tokens - but do check that they also have a scanner that has a program for your model and year and that the program is fully up to date. Or you could look at and/or ask on the 'Diagnostics & VCDS' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ Note also PetrolDave's post, many times it can a connector, often under the seat, that perhaps needs cleaning or securing, all electric/electronic connects need to be clean and secure and protected if exposed. Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me)

Sorry, I can't give you good news, just my experience having had various types of car insurance cover on and off since 1977 and a few claims. Your protected No Claims Discount will be protected but of course this will count as one claim against however many in what space of time your Protected NCD allows, some allow more claims and/or in a shorter time than others. Protected only if non-fault is new to me, sounds a cut-price half cover to me, with a 220 PS (or any PS level) car I'd want full cover but each to their own. How long things take may depend on lots of things. You have been involved in an incident no matter who's fault and no matter if you claim or not (such as parked up and you're not in the car and someone or something damages your car) so this is proof of risk, you have claimed so yes unfortunately your premium will probably increase at next renewal. If you paid for, or your insurance includes legal cover then you can pass all this over to them to try to sort, different policies have deferent cover and different providers are different quality. If the accident can be proven or taken as third parties' fault (if insured) then your insurance and legal cover will get you your vehicle repaired and possibly your excess and other from third parties insurance - but only the car repair is guaranteed. I learnt when I was young that low cost insurance is great provided you never make a claim, then you need good quality insurance which can sometimes (not always) cost more in premium but a lot less in time and hassle for the insured, things were a lot easier way back then though.

Quick thoughts: for airbag light do you mean the one on/in the dash (and not other for passenger), have you done any work on the front seats, steering wheel, elsewhere fairly recently, is the car completely standard or have bits been added/altered in anyway (infotainment, towbar, anything) is your OBD II (Eleven?) fully up to date with any program changes for your model and year of VW product (car), are there any other error codes coming up or issues on the car, er, I've forgot, that's all from me - just remembered, have you looked and/or asked on the relevant model forum on Briskoda?