Former

ETA: Part shown has the number 032121121- J (032 121 121 J) on it. Also listed is 032 121 121 B.

Is this the part you want (shown as genuine Škoda) - if not click on other links on this page. - https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/032121121j-thermostat-housing-pipe-union-skoda-2385.html

Gawd, never put the B-word on a UK site. it 's a religion here to some (on both sides).

I've not posted business parts abroad, or if I did it was decades back and I have forgotten, and the procedures would be different now anyway and what Customs charges apply where I would have no idea, no VAT though. - https://www.gov.uk/guidance/vat-exports-dispatches-and-supplying-goods-abroad

FYI and as an example only, this is what I'll be using if I do the engine oil & filter change next month myself on my wife's 2015 Fabia 1.2 TSI, 90, as I've used their engine oils for a few years on my (not VW) car. - Millers Oils EE Performance Engine Oil C3 5w30. Millers Oils Which Oil? Oil Checker Tool - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/which-oil/

If you want to follow VW's dictates on oil (502 00 / 504 00) then your Owners Manual will guide you, the Germans of course have to have their own system of numbers for things like oil and (difficult to follow numbers coolant) to make out there's something special, the Owner's Manual doesn't give weight range or fill capacity (why? because they don't). For my wife's 2015, 1.2 TSI, 90 petrol the Dealership(s) claimed to have used 5w-30 and then later 0w-30. "Longlife" or "LL" to me are just marketing terms but if it is also a better oil than one that doesn't have those terms on the label then better to use it. "Longlife" is supposed to be about and for longer "service" (oil 7 oil filter change) but I stick with the 9,400-mile or 12 months whichever is the sooner, I might extend the mileage if I was using a really good oil but still change every 12 months. A 5w or 0w engine oil will be a good engine oil to meet the 0w and 5w specifications, of course even at these specs there are some "more equal than others" but you can get into diminishing returns and it may depend on if you want to keep the car a few years or many years and how the car is used and driven.

Well I supposed it depends on what you call summer, I know you get some rain in Greece but if it's not enough to bother about fair enough. If you want/need wheel covers they are available, just as an example - SILVER WHEEL COVERS - http://www.cover-systems.co.uk/wheel-covers/silverwheelcovers.php There are of course plenty of tyre savers about for those that want/need them.

Slow down I'm not from Germany, I meant there are taxes to be paid and (most) have to pay these taxes which increases costs here in the UK but outside the UK you won't have to pay the VAT, the products prices are shown including VAT so you can discount the prices by 20%. 😄

This is a UK company where (most) companies and people pay their taxes but of course you don't so you can take the 20% VAT (value added tax) off of the prices as you are outside of the UK. Example - Covers and Products for the Skoda Felicia hatchback (94/01) Outdoor Full Size Cover - (£181 / 1.2) = £150.83 Under Cover and Outdoor Full Size Cover Set - (£308 / 1.2) = £256.67 Outdoor Full Size Cover - http://www.cover-systems.co.uk/car-covers/outdoorfullsizecar.htm Under Cover - http://www.cover-systems.co.uk/car-covers/carundercovers.htm It rains quite often in the UK so the covers have to be breathable and waterproof, (to BSI standards) see information on each product, perhaps the non-breathable aluminium outer layer would be better if you don't get rain and condensation, you would have to check with purchasers that use the covers in your country for long term outdoor storage of their car(s) such as those with very restrictive use of "historical" vehicles.

Outdoor Full Size Car Covers- http://www.cover-systems.co.uk/car-covers/outdoorfullsizecar.htm

A car sitting doing nothing for long periods has lots of determents, its position relevant to the elements are a few. Best way to deal with it (other than actually using the car regularly and changing its parking position and location is to have something like the Carcoon with its protection and ventilation. Otherwise a foldable garage might be an alternative with allowance for natural air movement ventilation. We have a maker of those locally but do doubt there are others, this company specialises in lightweight part and full covers too, their website isn't the best as they're an older style company, they do supply outside UK. I've had a few of their products and mates have had custom altered covers. - http://www.cover-systems.co.uk/car-covers/carfoldinggarages.htm

Outdoor Carcoon - https://www.carcoon.com/product-range/vehicle/outdoor/outdoor-carcoon/ Then there's the covers - Concours Eclipse Outdoor Car Cover - https://www.concoursautoproducts.co.uk/ Richbrook SuperStorm Tailored Outdoor Car Cover - https://richbrook.co.uk/ Hamiltons - https://hamiltonclassic.co.uk/products/moltex-outdoor-car-covers-breathable-all-weather

No it's an upgrade, though the AGM batteries are supposed to be more insulated from engine bay heat because of their position in the car. My wife's car didn't come with the felt type folding lid it should have had with the factory fitted Moll EFB battery let alone the additional under insulation for AGM batteries and I've not bothered getting either. Who knows the heat might shorten the battery life but I'm sure I can keep the battery giving good service for long years regardless.

I fitted the Tosch labelled (I'm told it's a Varta) S5 A05, 60Ah, type 027, AGM to my wife's 2015 Fabia over 4 years ago now and it's been very good despite the very short journeys she normally does on workdays. We're old so she's not on the phone too much, don't have Twa*Nav or cameras and I have, when required done a very few preventative charges with an appropriate battery charger maintainer, to fully charged, and did read the instructions on this in the car's Owner's Manual and chargers instructions.

There is also a 'Tyres & Wheels' forum on this site were you will find lots of info, threads and posts on tyres and different posters (and opinions). Ootohere has just put up a video on a thread there that has a middle part that could be relevant to you (from 5:27). - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufau3V2Nc7c 'Tyres & Wheels' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/213-tyres-wheels/

I was going to put before, go with whatever the locals prefer, you are in a foreign land, things are different, the authorities are different and may behave differently, waving your British passport and speaking loudly in English to make them understand that you are correct may not go down too well either, UK flag on German car, whatever next. 😆

This is one of the problems of very low mileage use. There is cracking which shows the tyres are not in good condition, and been that way for the last two MoTs. With age and lack of milage use tyres tend to go hard this means they are no longer as good at their functions as they used to be, tyres effect the vehicle's braking, steering, suspension, road holding, handling, comfort and noise. They are a very underrated complex very important component of the car and provide the four small patches of contact with the road, all the electronic driver aids cannot overcome the physics of those four patches or lack of any of them. If the tyres are the same as was on my wife's 2015 then they are Nexen N blue HD(?) which weren't the best tyres when new anyway. If you were to change all the tyres to new I'm sure you'd notice the improvement. For driving in the wet, not that it rains much in the UK, it's recommended to have at least 3mm tread depth. My neighbour had a couple of Chinese tyres on his 2005 Picanto (with less than 28k-miles on it from new) and they cracked in the tread after 2 or 3 years of very little use and parked on the "drive" out in all elements and when he decided to change them he went for a set of four new tyres and what a difference it made but by this time only I was really driving the car every now and then just to check it and give it a little exercise, cars are designed to be driven not static. On a tangent have you changed the 12v battery yet?

Put your VIN in as you want the versing relevant to your vehicle as later ones may have variances not applicable to your car. If there's a pdf I'd have thought the car should have come with a paper printed version when it was new, though if the car was purchased s/h from a Dealership/garage the manual could have been taken from another car of not quite the same age. I've always recommended reading the Owner's Manual, even when considering a vehicle before buying it, but they have to cover so much now and are not always in plain English and of course have errors and omissions but still if you refer to them they can save time, hassle and money from unnecessary or premature parts purchases and/or visits to the Dealers\garage\mechanic\auto-electrician, but the VWŠkoda manuals do seem to get worse the newer the vehicle. I prefer the paper printed versions or even a pdf version of that over a virtual(?) more modern version or those horrid videos that seem to tell you next to nothing. VW is odd and annoying in not giving the widely accepted UK fluid descriptions or fill capacities. I call the amber triangle warning light the triangle of doom, often warns of nothing or even falsely but of course like the boy that cried wolf you can't ignore it. I find some of these "driver aids" to be like a very nervous or over-cautious passenger that's a very inexperienced or non driver that actually interferes with the driver and driver controls. My wife's 2015 Fabia front "assist" put the brakes on whilst she was driving slowly in town traffic for no reason then she saw a bag blowing in the wind. I particularly dislike lane "assist" and blind spot warning especially when they combine their efforts on say a dual-carriage way, then there's start/stop at roundabouts and the combined systems that think about letting the car accelerate and . . . such is life with modern vehicles. 😆

Why guess when the information is readily available to you in the Owner's Manual, - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models ETA: and don't be using your phone whilst you were driving or put out photos on public platforms suggesting you were - I'm sure your passenger took that photo which your reverse dashcam will confirm. 🫠

Not all recommendations are followed.

ETA: as usual I was still one-finger typing whilst another post goes live 🫠 You may already know the following but as I see so many personalised what should be "show" plates on the roads the following info for you. There's an organisation called BNMA (British Number Plate Manufacturers Association) you would hope their members would be more trustful. UK flag number plate design confirmed for overseas travel from 28th September [ 29 September 2021 article ] - https://www.bnma.org/news/uk-flag-number-plate-design-confirmed-for-overseas-travel/ Gov.UK - Displaying number plates - Flags, identifiers and stickers - https://www.gov.uk/displaying-number-plates/flags-identifiers-and-stickers

@D.FYLAKTOS and others can tell you or it is detailed in posts on this form previously. Parts quality is an issue generally, even the better known suppliers carry poor quality parts, often you get what you pay for, pay cheap get cheap (but not always). I have not used Reddix(?) parts but I think I have seen that they are not the best. Particularly with things like sensors on these old cars you want the originals or good quality Japanese (that is if the original sensors were not already Japanese).

Does/did the cabin heater matrix (small radiator inside the heater box) get hot and push out hot air when set to hottest and cabin blower fan set to high speed? Provided it is functioning correctly, once the coolant stat (thermostat) is fully open it can do no more to control the coolant, the (engine cooling) radiator, and when required the electric engine cooling fan, and the engine oil, the ambient air, the flow of which depends on the car's movement or wind are doing the cooling. You have to be careful what you use to clean, you really want to use specific cleaners, did you back-flush at all, did you drain and flush (and back-flush) the engine block too - did you see my notes on all three from a link I put in a previous post. The idea of fresh new clean coolant is too help keep the engine cool, help prevent corrosion and to lubricate, it also has antifreeze, so the coolant needs to be at the correct concentration to water for your location to prevent winter freezing of the coolant which can potentially cause a lot of damage. In a lot of areas tap water is not a good water to use in car cooling systems. If you carried out the refilling procedure as you did before (including cabin heater set to full heat, cabin fan does not matter on this) I doubt it is air in the system, of course I can't know if there is any air in the system and if it might be the cause or partial cause, but I doubt it. The radiator being clean and clear on the outside is good, same for the engine (and heater matrix that you cannot see, and I have read it is a pig of a job to remove it) but you can not see how clear and clean the water passages are inside them. Same with the head gasket, it is a matter of belief on your part, you can test which is better than just belief. Whether you hand this over to a garage/mechanic is up to you but if you download the info from Erwin or get a Haynes (workshop) Manual, perhaps get a head gasket testing kit, and/or take advice and instruction from here and learn how to at least sort the cooling/heating system yourself so you get the learning, satisfaction and confidence and save labour costs at least. You can often do a better job than a garage/mechanic because you care more and have the time to do the job properly if you want. Coolant refilling instructions are often in the car's Owner's Manual of this period(?). I used to pay others called "professionals" and "specialists" ("professionals") to do the work on my cars but then had to finish that work properly myself or sometimes redo the work, so much so that later I would just do most work myself without them. I have (almost) never had a garage to work in so outside in the weather and (sometimes lack of) light and do not have a mechanical aptitude and loathe working on our own cars (yet I do not mind simple work on the cars of others). I made (and make) many mistakes (not helped by my loathing) yet still often doing a better job than the "professionals". It also means I (and you could) know what exactly was done on the car, the parts used, how the job went, when it was done and that the work was actually done and parts fitted. Also gives more information for if issues arise. Many/most jobs on the car, servicing, maintenance and some repairs, just boil down to cleaning and lubricating that most of us can do. Some may sometimes be a bit awkward but still quite simply to do if done correctly. An experienced person may see something you do not but the other side is familiarity breeds contempt so an experienced person can make mistakes often by not checking or double check something that the less experienced person would. No matter what the job or issue is the start is always with the basics which you can easily learn after reading or being told.

If you are fixing the plates to the car yourself and drilling the screw holes through the number plates don't make the screw holes too tight to screw width and put some masking tape on both sides of of the plates to mark for drilling and so the drill tip is less likely to slip and cleaner entry and exit to drilling.

Just looked in my shed and found some old Halfords with two-part plastic screw head covers and the screws are 8 gauge (4.2) by 19 mm thread, same as. - https://www.halfords.com/motoring/number-plates/number-plate-accessories/number-plate-fixers---screws-and-domes-272403.html