Former

ETA: in a 2021 car perhaps you are expected to connect a phone - go against the computer at your peril. 😆

Have a look at your Owner's / Instruction Manual for the infotainment and see what it has. Perhaps the previous owner/driver's phone is still logged in, owner/driver or seller/last user ought to deleted the info (same for ****Nav addresses) but people forget, garages, mechanics/technicians can forget or too lazy or not given enough time. VW Skoda Owner's manual link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Below is from my wife's 2015 Instruction Manual. - If this doesn't work you could try a system reset, see if there are any updates or (admitted to) Recalls. Update portal. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ Škoda Recall Campaigns - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns If all fails it could be hardware or software fault/glitch/brain-fart/programming, such is the beauty of modern cars. Many may not know that's it's not against any law not to have a "smart" phone in a car and use it, same as men are allowed to read instructions manuals, if they want to and very clever ones do. 😉 HTH.

“Engine Coolant Flush Cleaner 2 Part for Cooling System Pipes VW Audi Seat Skoda - Requires coolant to be drained and flushed, then run with the cleaning solution, neutralised and drained flushed again.” Were the bits in bold both done, by a Dealer and Dealer’s mechanic/technician(?), regardless it looks like it needs another proper drain, flush and refill with (VW’s ever number changing) coolant to see if things improve. My neighbour's diesel VW Golf had something changed on the coolant system (I forget what) and coolant at least topped up if not changed, and had lost some coolant from the tank so I had a look and from what he told I suggested it might just be an air lock (I've no idea if they were supposed to pressure/vacuum fill that engine) but the coolant in the tank looked dirty and smelt of I don't know what but not nice but apparently it was fine that way, diesels do tend to be ****ty both inside and from the engine, especially those not fully properly serviced and maintained as many aren't, like I suspect my neighbour's based on when I saw his diesel Aldi out and about, largest, densest black cloud I've ever seen come from a car.

If your friend has a scan tool he may have access to information from that that tells him where the diagnostics port is or have a users forum that might tell him. He only really needs to put in the correct type of battery (EFB on your case), the correct Ah (75 Ah, make sure your friend inputs this correctly, unlike a professional auto-electrician we were told about on here) and the new "serial number" (if this is 1111111111 from factory or not it can be changed to one on to 1111111112).. The make of battery means nothing now, if shown on a 2021 car(?) (previously a VW three character code). HTH.

Don't wait until you get any warnings charge it before then with an appropriate battery charger maintainer as preventative measures as required. Read the car's Owner's Manual and the charger's instructions and follow them. The battery can be low even though the engine starts and the lights seem to be bright and before you get any warning lights and messages the computers can be unhappy and causing all sorts of unexpected issues leading to unseen error codes and intermittent (or not) warning lights. By the time the car engine is difficult to start the battery is very low and probably won't fully recover but it can be recovered, when it gets to the point of not starting the engine (other than from leaving some electric item on for a long time by mistake) you may well have used, abused and neglected the battery beyond reasonable recovery. ETA: Immediately thinking of changing the battery because it doesn't start the car is a bit like thinking of changing the car when the fuel tank is empty, the 12v car battery is one of the most oversold car parts, often replaced prematurely or very (very) prematurely.

If you must keep to the latest German or VW dictates then you want VW TL 774-L. VW don't make the stuff so there are plenty of VW TL 774-L stuff about. With a 2022 car you shouldn't need to worry about topping up the coolant.

No of course not, this is Germany with their love of their own numbers and specifications, which they change their minds on and also have to update There was G11, G12, G12+, G12++, then G13 so what would be next - G14, no, G13+ no, . . . G12evo of course!

Don't wear jewellery. 😄

Change them. If you re bothering to change between all-seasons/winter tyres and "summer" tyres then now is the time to go the whole way with winter, "summer" swaps or all-season all year.

AS has been put. Depends where you live, how you drive, how you look after your car and tyres, possibly how low you run the tyre tread and how lucky or not you are. The foam supposedly goes out of date, the tyre inflaters generally can be quite wheezy and possibly overheat or blow a fuse if trying to inflate a tyre from flat and the pressure gauge no always too accurate. If you carry a spare tyre it needs to be kept at the correct pressure for use, many aren't, some in older cars are flat so need inflating at time of need. They carry a spare wheel and tyre in the boot (extra weight) for years then it's not fit for purpose when required. I didn't carry a spare wheel in various cars for over 30 years just a reliable manual foot pump. In 47 years of driving in UK (and some bits of Europe) I've had to use the manual footpump three separate times and doing so got me home easily. On the other side once a tyre was destroyed (bloody lazy lorry drivers) about 7 miles from home and we did have to wait for the Breakdown service. My wife got a puncture in the Fabia but got the car home easily enough (decades of experiences of old cars and what to do) the VWSkoda TPMS system was very tardy in reporting the issue and in this case only of use to someone who doesn't know enough about driving. In the boot she had the tyre inflater and (out-of-date) foam, later she added a manual footpump. I had previously checked the 12v tyre inflater worked, noisy, annoying and slow but it does work (with provisos mentioned. before.

Yes I know, I know the Favorit and MX-5 seating and driving positions, one is a five-seater family hatch the other a two-seater sports, many differences including gear lever length, I've never suggested you have your gear lever too short, my main suggestion to you has always been that I do not a short lever or quickshift/shortshift lever will not give you the results you want. You may be able to make the existing system slicker by replacing or changing and bushes or links. The red hard saddle improved the feel and slickness of the Ford Type 9 lever be it quickshift or standard lever or shortened standard lever - and I'm saying such a thing exists for you (AFAIK it no longer exists for the Ford even). As you know a metal gear knob isn't a great idea when the sun gets on it, but with a tin-top perhaps you notice less. If the photo you put up was a more modern MX-5 the interior it looks horrible to me.

I don't know but it may have an aerial booster/amplifier, perhaps in with the aerial perhaps not. You could ask at the Dealership parts department and if so for it's location to inspect it. I don't know if the infotainment gives signal strength to stations, I forget, but if it does you could monitor that, would a correct level VW scan tool cover this, sorry again I don't know just thoughts.

I wouldn't believe everything you read anywhere, especially if it's on the internet. Put up the court papers and such stuff may be able to verify, otherwise it's just a good story. It's not a case of suing but blame, fine if you accept it, not so good when it's deflect on to others. I suppose whoever does the work could get a second lot of money extending the shortened lever to get it back to the same length as it was before it was shortened. 😆

It is an option, you might not want to do it and doing it may not give you what you want anyway or improve things. This you might want to do but it may not give you what you want anyway or improve things. But it's your car so you will as always do as you want. You've seen the videos and the ratios you decide, if I was doing the work for you I would insist you decide and take full responsibility as whatever is decided as the measurement it may not give you what you want anyway or improve things and I would not offer myself as a scapegoat for this. You can mock something up or draw something on paper or perhaps get an engineer or someone to do the maths if you don't want to, but until the work is actually done and installed on your car with you driving it the result and if it's acceptable is unknown, to you at least, you've had a couple of opinions but they're not proof.

For now. 😄

The Germans love their own numbers and specifications, then they change their minds and/or have to update things, like their engine oil numbers 5** **, and their coolant numbers - G11, G12, G12+, G12++, G13 and then guess what . . . G14?, G13+? no, G12evo ! 🫠 You can do your own research, wait for more replies, contact VW, see below and accept it or find the reason and report it back here. Good luck. "Brand new Genuine Audi/SEAT/Skoda/VW Adblue. This is a (10L) 10 Litre Container Part Number: G052910M4 Replaces G052910A4" - https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/seat-shop/genuine-seat-adblue-diesel-exhaust-fluid-10-litres/

Whether it's correct or not I don't know Auto-Doc has - SKODA Felicia I Estate (6U5) 1.6 75 hp Petrol AEE "Recommended part replacement interval for your car for the part category Timing belt kit: at 90.000 km (54000 mi) , then every 30.000 km (18000 mi) / at 90.000 km (54000 mi) , then every 30.000 km (18000 mi)". - https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/timing-belt-set-10505/skoda/felicia/felicia-i-estate-6u5/5259-1-6?categories[]=307 Crasher - "The interval on the AEE 1.6 8v engine used to be based purely on a visual inspection of condition but now it is accepted that the interval is 60K miles or 5 years. On these engines it is not usually the belt that fails but rather the lower plastic tensioner. The water pump should also always be changed and a timing belt kit used. These are very easy belts to do and the job should take a professional no more than 3 hours." - https://www.volkswagenforum.co.uk/threads/cambelt-or-chain.3518/ Continental Industry - Timing belt replacement interval - "GOLF III - 1.4 / 1.6 - 10/91-08/97 - ABD, AEE" 2014 sheet, no interval given. - https://www.continental-industry.com/getmedia/8dfb65b2-a3c9-43b0-a007-3faabfffbaee/PTG8625-DeEnEs-Timing-belt-replacement-intervals.pdf So perhaps that bears out what Crasher put and it's not the belt (depending on its quality) but the lower plastic tensioner. You could check with the supplier or manufacturer of the last belt you fitted but it may only apply to the belt unless it was a kit. German engines seem to be a real PITA with regards water pumps, and now tensioners perhaps.

Depending on the quality of the particular oil that sounds a very reasonable or good idea to me, it's not all about particular numbers or ingredients but how well the whole package works, lasts and protects in the engine and use as a whole. Diminishing returns of course but the better the appropriate oil the better the working, protection and longevity.

Perhaps it's just terminology I don't know of but your thread title (here and elsewhere) I thought was about the tailgate door not locking or unlocking I wonder if others might also think that, unless it's a recognised term in tuning nowadays, if it's not you might change the thread title.

Try asking the manufacturers but I would not be surprised if they only say they can recommend using their products as the directions on their packaging and data sheets but it might depend on who you speak to at the companies. Doing it the way you want is diluting the cleaner from what is recommended on the first stage and a very diluted cleaner on second stage and you will still have to flush thoroughly to get everything you can out of the system. Better IMO would be 100% on first stage then thorough flushes and back-flushes until the water coming out is very clean.

Sorry but you have totally missed my point, and I haven't a clue what cook-code dress-behaviour-way of speaking is or what you mean by it, I was not looking down on any peoples from any place rather taking the attitude that you and your fellow Greek present here to me. I have never suggest anyone doesn't know how to drive just that we can all learn to do better, if we want to. You are rather partly proving the stereotype of the macho male ego by getting all upset and defensive at any suggestion that you could improve your driving skills, we have lots of the same here and they will be on sites about cars obviously. You are old enough to know better so you get less latitude than your fellow young Greek (chasing and racing on public roads and putting so on a public forum). If you looked at the link I gave you you would see that the members offer tutoring and assessments so someone like yourself proficient at driving could offer to asses and teach others (after being assessed for such yourself), if you wanted, but that wouldn't mean you could not learn more and improve yourself even at that level. I'm a child of the 1960s and 70s so I have the same male ego and attitudes to some extent but with time passing and age are more able to accept just because I'm a male of a certain age I don't have to let my ego always get the better of me. You can't know how good or bad I am at driving, I tell you without any modesty that I'm not that good, you might be superb but I can't know that. The original idea of suggesting a track instructor or good racer was to suggest smoother driving and gear change as an alternative so you don't need a quickshift which would do very little on your car and then as usual it got expanded out. The potential for slop getting into such a remote rod changing as on your car must be great but to reduce it would introduce transferred vibrations which are not noticed on race cars with all the other noises, plus driver wearing ear plugs and driving helmet but would be on a road car.

Advanced driving is NOT track driving, yes when I was referring to a track instructor or good race driver driving your car I meant as a hypothetical case and on the public roads, not a track, obeying all public driving laws, regulations and codes. Yes a a track instructor or good race driver could teach you smooth driving on a track with them or you driving driving your car but that's not what I meant, I meant you would see how smoothly they driver the car, not snatching or extreme movements in anyway, smooth, swift driving that would feel slower than it actually is because it's so smooth and flowing, anticipation and setting up to get the smoothing flowing swiftness. Advanced driving is about better driving on the public roads not a track, obeying all public driving laws, regulations and codes. Below is an example in the UK, just as an example only, there are other avenues to further driver training for driving on public roads, not track training. Techniques for better driving not racing others or quickest gearshifts (but better) or "balls-out" "ten -tenths" driving. Such training would cover driving public mountain roads and other public roads in road legal vehicles but not for timed runs, though smoother is often quicker, not necessarily fastest or as fast as possible racing is for race tracks whether you are racing someone else or your own times. Unless you are learning driving techniques you don't want to take your own car on a track or track day unless you have money to spare, if it is a hobby or pastime you enjoy fair enough but it will put a lot of additional stress and wear on your car in very short amounts of time, even on very short tracks with relatively low speeds, better to drive a car someone else has to own and look after. Institute of Advanced Motorists, Road Smart - https://www.iamroadsmart.com/about-us/overview

You need the scan tool to be up to date with updates and to be VW and model and year specific to get all functions working as well as the can on the scan tool. ETA: and sometimes as it's a computer stuff (scan tool and car) doing the old "turn it off 'n' on agen" may help with any brain farts one, or both, may be having/had.

Look for the plug in bit on the battery negative terminal clamp for battery monitoring system. Battery manufacturer code is not required, you can leave it as it is or put in something else, doesn't need to be three letter code either in my experience, those things were for VW statistics and warranty issues (clawing money back on their battery contracts no doubt). The car may not even need any 'coding' provided the battery type (EFB or AGN, known as 'fleece' by VW) and Ah rating of the battery is about the same - but any info needs to be right, if the battery is 70 Ah and 7 Ah is keyed in things may not go well (why VW allow such an error to be possible you would have to ask VW). In my view from reading and talking with people, driving the car should sort things but if possible it is best to get the battery 'coded' and to get all error codes deleted both not urgent but as soon as reasonably possible. Below is from a Briskoda member 'coding' the battery on my wife's 2015 Fabia using OBDEleven. -

Well done. Sounds like you have improvements from some sort of ducted air, cold air intake kits sort of thing. It doesn't matter in the least about any whiteboard, blackboard, technical books, bench or lab testing, technical training, education, learning, theory, or intuition, if something works in real world application and use. What works well or badly or in-between on one vehicle may vary on another, if it works on yours it works.