Former

Sorry just had to smile at the irony, handle of MachoMan and fitting high heels wheels to the car. Don't take this seriously, it's your car you do as you please, just made me smile. ☺️ I'm an old-fart so I'd be going for 16" wheels and higher (they're still low profile) tyres for more comfort (possibly pick up feel) and definitely steel wheels for a diesel - but it'd be a strange world if we were all the same, just put elsewhere 70 used to be low profile. ☺️

The 1" difference in rim width will alter how the 165/70/13 tyre walls are to the different rim wheel widths. How they feel and operate also depends a lot on the specific make and model of tyres, how old the tyres are their use, abused and wear. Old and/or little used tyres can have loads of tread wear left on them and still be poor for braking, steering, suspension road holding, handling ride comfort and noise, the sidewalls could have seen a lot of life. On my 1973 Midget that I used as a daily driver for 16 years until nearly two years ago the standard steel wheels were 4.5" rims with 145/80/13 tyres, 165/70/13 were the low profile wider "boy racer" size of tyre, the Midget model not many years earlier which I had I put on the original 3.5" wide steel wheels with 145/80/13 (15.5" steering wheel on both models) the car was a delight on this size of wheels and tyres. Tyres are more about their design, build and compounds than a tyre size up a little, of course they do have to be suitable gto rim fit and fit to vehicle.

I can't remember needing any allen keys just imperial spanners and sockets back when I was young and stupid enough to fart about with the old-bangers I could afford. Now I do it not out of choice but for other reasons, including but not restricted to costs reasons. My sets of small DIY allens keys which I've bought from the late 1970s to 13 years ago only go up to 6mm. Last year I lost my set of small DIY Draper imperial allen keys, I was so annoyed as I've had them since the late 1970s and even though they were a standard plain set along with some screwdrivers I've lost from that time they were better made than equivalent (of higher quality) modern made replacements. Again I saw somewhere I read that the rear calipers could remain in situ but lack of confidence in this I bought the set of Hex bits and Sod's Law I didn't need them (and wonder if I'll ever use them). As I put replacing the discs on this car was the easiest in my limited experience, perhaps if I ever done it again (gawdd, I hope not) I might find it more awkward but from my past experience know that it is possible for me to do it without touching the calipers as I've done it before. If I can do it anyone can (if the same).

Is it, was it, is the law retrospective? In UK you can have vehicles without front wipers (in certain instances) let alone rear wipers. It's important to keep all windows and mirrors reasonably clean and clear includes door windows and exterior mirrors but they don't have wipers and washers on them or most front lights and never rear lights that are very important. As put many cars, even hatchbacks and estates (combi, "touring" as the German marques seem to call them) didn't use to have a rear wiper or washer and mirrors went heated drivers had to use their mobile electronics (their brains) and take on more personal responsibility for how they prepared and drove their vehicles and not rely on buttons in them to do all the work for them and not expect them to also take all responsibilities. So many cars now covered in dirt with just wiper blades areas of clear windows and same for heavy snow, rear lights and number plates totally masked - especially VAG diesels, no wonder black is the favoured paint colour for these models.

Never rely on just parking sensors and cameras as accidents still happen with these fitted as people get too reliant on them and too lazy to fully check the screen(s) or mirrors or if required get out of the vehicle and check behind (or in front if front camera) or have someone else, reliable, to help you. Camera lenses also need to be kept clean for better quality images. I'm sure many new to cars and driving now expect a button to wipe their bottoms for them, don't join that movement. 😒

You might be better posting in the Octavia forum than here. If it's not the bulb or holder then next down the line are connector and wires to connector, you could test for a live getting that far. When you put holder is this the whole unit for all the bulbs or an individual bulb holder and presumed nothing LED. Good luck.

ETA: Again you will know this for sure if you open it up IIRC four screws(?).. Find the wiper type and you might find new plastic gears sets are available (perhaps NOS?), if exact degrees of sweep aren't available other degrees of sweep may be, that increase or decrease area of sweep but still cover enough, or not go too far, for purpose. I would perhaps use the modern VW Aldi Audi/Bentley engineering material of choice fantastic-plastic to effect an adaption to the existing motor to locate and hold it in position and even perhaps some off-cut bits of old rubber to increase the vibration resistance of the motor mounting and when in operation, again in the spirit of Audi/Bentley, you can claim Bentley standard motor then. 😄

Perhaps it can be fixed and the thread issue overcome with and adaption for secure fixing and location through the existing holes in the door - and I don't think you need necessarily (though I don't know as I don't have the motor to look at or play with) any sort of engineering workshop or specialist tools. The work will be hidden behind the door painted metal skin and internal panel trim out of sight, the fixing outside mostly cover by the bottom of the arm a bit of black paint would disguise or hide any DIY clumsiness. If it's broke already and you fail to repair and install it you've lost only time and whatever bits you used on it. Or you could pay 50 euro and get a new replacement (or claim off your insurance if that's cost effective and not much hassle (you never would over here usually at least £100 compulsory excess on the insurance and many have up to £500 voluntary excess on top of whatever compulsory (being old we have £100 compulsory and zero voluntary excess (well we did last year). Or - my choice - blank off and seal the hole and forget about a rear wiper loads of cars didn't have them, clean the rear window when you clean the rear lights and number plate, you're supposed to glance through the rear window not try and see how much the bloke behind is picking his nose whilst driving, a quick look, is it safe to do what you are going to do next as far as what is behind you is concerned, a reasonably clear view, you have door or side mirror(s) no doubt too.

Millers Oils (if correct) list as (MTF) 75w GL-4 with a load of VW TL oil numbers for the DKRC 81Kw engine, 0DQ(?) 6/1 box - 2.2 litre capacity - EE Performance would be my choice for this very infrequent job, I'd buy two bottles as you're very likely to have 0.2+ litre left in the box even from a hot drain left to drain for ages, and more with a cold quick drain. - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/which-oil/ Opie Oils has different info but still MTF 75w GL-4 and I think it covers double-dry clutch, double-wet clutch, DSG or S-tronic and some manual boxes but do double check all info and VW and or Skoda oil, spec, part, numbers if you worry about such things - nothing is made straight forwards nowaday and particularly from the likes of the German marques and brands. This next video sounds correct with label but it's to cold and wet for me to be bothered to go outside and check at the moment and you can check on your car possibly easier (Note, IIRC the label only has some of the "extras"listed.)

I forget where I got the H7 info from but I bought a full set of H 'pins' anyway then found (on the rear brakes of my wife's 2015 car) the discs were easily removable without touching the caliper or carrier, I did have to angle them in and arc them to position but it was easy, even for a ham-fisted non-mechanic like me. I've no idea if other models, trim levels or later carrs had different rear brakes than on my wife's car but to be honest I can't remember checking if the caliper were H7 or H8 as the first disc went on so easy without touching the caliper or carrier - so H8 is a good correction to offer. I also can't remember if the fronts or back were easiest to replace (on my wife's 2015 SE) but both were the easiest to do in my limited experience of the few different types I've done and both front and rear sem to continue working well.

If it's the battery try fully recharging it with an appropriate battery charger (not fast charge) this may take a good number of hours so you need time and patience - or as above if you can't be bothered or really do not have the time to fully recharge then buy a new battery and try not to let it get in such a low state of charge in future or you might flog it to death again. Good luck.

If it's a no loss situation, that is you can't use it now so if whatever you do doesn't work you've lost nothing you could try a repair/adaption by the look of the motor Mike has put up, and no need for an electrician. The electrical connection looks to be a simple socket and plug and it looks like (though I don't know for sure) the motor mounting is very straightforward. So you can easily take the motor out and test it directly off a 12v battery, such as the one installed in the car, for its running and put a bit of resistance to the arm and blade to see if it can cope. If it passes the test you could look at something to go from motor arm through door panel and secured and weather seal perhaps using some of the bits you already have or make something else up, depends on what you have available or can get. What's the motor is out you could perhaps clean it internally electrically and mechanically perhaps and it might run for many more years from doing so. There's nothing complicated about any of this, you might have to be a bit inventive but you have lots of time to work things out and do the work.

The idea is to locate the drive through the door skin and hold it at the correct angle for the wiper arm and blade to the rear window also to seal the hole so water doesn't get to inside. As it is the rear wiper you could just remove the motor and blank off and seal the hole in the door (unless your MoT doesn't allow this). If you want or need to keep the wiper then take the motor out to see what, if anything, can be done or adapted to hold the drive in position and see the motor mounting in the door with trim panel off. Might mean kicky-bally (Wendyball as local Rugby Football fans call it here) team fans(?).

Which gearbox? My wife's was a 5-speed manual (PED?) and IIRC was 75w-80 GL4 oil but if yours is also a 5-speed manual (PED?) I can look it up to check for you in the very reliable paper printed car file to confirm (computers are flimsy unreliable things) or sources of info can be Opie Oils (if you have VW orders specification numbers you can look up with those too) or I use Millers Oils (Yorkshire company) 'What Oil' but bear in mind all sources of info including manufactures can include errors and omissions.

900, to me, pluses - covers for battery lead connectors, perhaps longer mains lead (don't know), better display, trendy it aint (a plus to me) minuses - some too tiny 12v on screen and the 'FUL' is still there that annoys me, and the same mode function button that outfoxes me, new so not time tested in real world use. Evolution rather than revolution, worth a go, probably lower priced from other retail providers, but if the 800 is on special offer at significantly lower price (than it was) to clear stock I'd go with it instead as it's been Ok in my use and others seem to say it's OK. Anything that cuts down on time farting about with the car is good by me and if its easy to use the better, and if it's reliable and long lasting even better. If either blows your car up let us know. 😄

That's the exact rubbish reply I put about in my post before you posted this. I think they're talking about plugging in a scan tool to see what's been recorded on the car's computers but they only record what the sensors report and despite the numerous sensors on the car they're not on everything and can report on every fault and those they can still need interpreting and understanding as they can't always find a faulty/sensor that is the issue. With your issue, as a total non-mechanic and expert in anything, I think it's probable to be possibly clutch or gearbox related, though other computer interference though very unlike could perhaps be a contributing factor and an appropriate VW scan tool report on a used car can be interesting, so, if your mechanic has one get him to plug it in and see what comes up. If he has one I expect he did so when you first had him check the car. Or there are members on this site that offer to help, some for free or beer tokens, some others professional so professional costs I expect, you could see if any are near you if you want. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) If your mechanic wants to check the gearbox oil level (if cool enough) when I changed the g/box oil on my wife's car I think it was overfilled at the factory, so a quick loosening of the fill/level plug should have it weeping without taking it fully out confirming level (if not quality). You shouldn't need to do all this but sometimes it's less life-hassle not to bother with those that don't want to sort things. Good luck

Hi, welcome. Sorry I can't open your link, might just be me and/or the machine I'm on. I.ve seen on here threads on noises from below on Mk3 Fabias and some like yourself being advised to change this part or that and yet a noise remains (whether anything like your noise obviously I don't know) and my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 has had and has various noises from underside and I could guess at one or two of them but until the better weather is here I;m not looking for a couple of the current ones yet. I take the view that the car still brakes, steers and suspension wise rides well (for what it is) and the minimum statutory standards of passing an moT (to one person's opion at just one point in time) are meet so I put up with the annoyance on my wife's car and save my time and hassle and her money for something else the car requires sooner than I'd like. VWSkoda seem to have chosen to drop parts quality from the Mk2 and certainly Mk1 it seems from what I've read on here and generally thought I'd understood in the past. at 6 years and 41k-miles my wife's car need two new front dampers. The Dealership supplied, fitted and (premium) charged for replacement dampers were "misting" in less than 12-months but the Dealership passed them at the two subsequent MoTs there. A neighbour had a 20+ year-old Toyota Yaris still on all factory suspension parts and the same for my mate's 28-year-old Toyota Supra. Don't fall for this German engineering "quality" stuff (and with BMW and Merc) that mainly went out with the last century. It might be a bushe(es) rather than some of the parts but which bush(es) and/or which parts is the mystery often. If others can hear your link, or you can put it up as an audio or video it might give some info to some but noises can be a real pain to track down without multi-mic kits or similar. The car's weight is generally a lot more force than a bloke with a bar can provide so perhaps the play in those areas might have been some noise and possibly better replaced anyway but that easier on the person getting paid for the work and some bloke on the internet not paying for it, and it hasn't resolved your (main)? issue.. Sometimes just tightening anything that has come loose (or been left loose) can help a lot. For bushes sometimes a spay of lubricant on bush or set at a time can help track them down - but that's squeaking not clattering, knocking or banging. As you see it's not that easy to find these things without time and patience and noises travel it might be something else entirely different and not where you think it originates. Took me 6-months and taking two different people out in another car to pin down a rattle turned out to be something that was originally suggested and I (thought) I'd originally checked near the very start. Even my wife let me down that time and she can hear the faults well before I notice them and even name some of them (decades of old car "classics" ownership and daily use). Good luck

My first thought is the cables or whatever from gearshift to box which would be mechanical so no need to necessarily wait for the interment problem to show up (or not show up) on a plug-in computer machine to save any strenuous thought being put in and cause head-hurt to the overworked mechanics and technicians that need to get on with more profitable work. A rare not to worry you about thing but as the car is new to you I personally would also want the gearbox checking for oil, oil/leaks and signs of previous repairs/parts replacement because I've heard of stories from two neighbours would used to collect and deliver s/h and lease cars to car storage places and dealers. I done this on my neighbours 4-month old first-owner car and didn't even need to even remove the plastic trays below the engine and box to some very non-factory signs of (poor quality cover-up) work and I'm not a mechanic or expert (in anything). Whatever you do don't let the seller fob you off, if the warranty is third party contact them and see where else you can take your car for warranty work to be done They' might (or might not) even let your trusted mechanic look and do the work but he might not thank you for it if he doesn't deal with the warranty company (or companies) normally as, I don't know. but would imagine some might be v e r y , v e r y s l o w p a y e r s of bills to them. Let us know how you go on and get on good luck.

Double/treble check any info you get from anywhere (including manufacturers) - so don't just buy a Ring RSC804 on some bloke oft t'web's say- so and if you wanted you could get a RSC806 for a 59Ah battery - and keep to VW's orders. You could guess it'd be an EFB as VW are too tight to fit AGM from the factory even on their products with their glorious name badge on let alone their "lesser" brands, 😄 Use the charger maintainer after the hot summer bit and cold winter bit and between the two if or as required as preventative measures and you should see a lot longer out of your battery and less hassle than most other owners of 2020 Scalas. Do read and follow the instructions for the charger maintainer and those for the car (in Owner's Manual) despite what some think it's not against any law for a man to do so (though many are incapable especially tradesmen I've found). Of course it wouldn't kill VWSkoda to put information about the battery in the Owner's Manual (along with other stuff they don't divulge that most other manufacturers do) but it doesn't seem to be the way they do things. Keeps forums going at least. 😄 Good luck.

I don't know VCDS or OBD11 or ash and soot figures or the calculations to change to other measures of them but other posters here do. I do know it's always better, and not against any law as some blokes think, to read instructions including manuals before starting the job or use of tools - how good and useful some of these manuals are is a different matter. Have a look at the car's owner's manual for which warning lights are on the car. Ford IDS is what started the search for a scan tool for my mate's 1996 Zetec 130 engine and all the different leads for cars of the time and research I've forgotten now, they were doing electronics for F1 (or was it Grand Pricks then, I forget) but saw a video recently of Tomorrow's World with a 1971 BL Triumph car of the future with electronics on so that must go back to the 60s so it's all very old technology, not as ancient as IC though, so don't expect just because we're in the 21st century that the car manufacturer's have bothered progress either technologies that much. If you do a regen on the move it has to be within the requirements otherwise it's start all over again with a break from requirements better I think is just to keep going with it when you next have a long journey to do and not believe the time scales given - but that's only based on a few vids I've seen and not any personal knowledge or experience. Good luck.

These "smart" chargers are like other "smart" devices really a misnomer as sometimes you have to fool them to get them to do what you want but for the average car owner they want plug and play, fit and forget, which is fine and what I want unless the battery has been so used and abused that it needs more to rescue. The secret as usual is prevention is better than cure, a simple straightforward plug and play, fit and forget charger maintainer is all that's required if used as prevention and for normal recharging when required. A mate has a couple of much more expensive CTek charger maintainers both exactly the same model yet they seem to operate slightly different to each other so as wotsit Twain sang they don't impress me much particularly at their high price but they do the job. Whether they or the Ring RSC804 I have last 20 or 30 years we'll have to wait and see. I also have a 20+ year old Accumate 1.8amp (IIRC) "smart-ish" charger maintainer and a 30+ year old simple 4amp Bradex charger I've used both of the old chargers on various batteries with a little bit of care but no worries.and I've had no issues. A neighbour and a few others I know have over the last number of years bought £15 charger maintainers from Lidl and they say they work fine, my neighbour's is used regularly (32 year old Merc auto that goes nowhere regularly) and he must have had it 5 years now. A lot of chargers have a cold/winter setting, sometimes with a temperature stated at which this should be used if not I take it as +5C or below it just ups things a bit but it's not a make or break thing. Up to you what you buy and how much you spend of course, personally I've have preferred a switchable/programable 2 and 4 amp charger maintainer but with modern car eating battery power like it's going out of fashion 4-amp is more practical. Good luck.

No need to go overboard on buying a charger maintainer, the "smart" ones often/always(?) sort out whether start/stop and whether EFB or AGM for themselves. I've found a slower. lower charger is better so use a 4-amp, you can charge in stages if you don't have the opportunity to fully recharger the battery in one go. A 6-amp or 8-amp would be quicker of course, VWSkoda recommend no more than one tenth of the Ah of the battery, have a look at your Owner's Manual for details, from 20.07.2020 Owner's Mamual. - To charge the vehicle battery fully, set a charging current of max. of 0.1 times the battery capacity. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Just one cheaper example, many others available, this is the one I use on my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 with 60Ah AGM battery fitted - Ring Smart Charger & Maintainer 4-amp RSC804. - https://www.ringautomotive.com/files/mydocs/RSC804_Spec.pdf https://www.ringautomotive.com/files/mydocs/RSC804_RSC806_RSC808_Instructions.pdf Charging overnight at -4c (IIRC). -

How the wheels look is a personal thing, the oversizing of wheels and tyres (for probably decades now) is a lot to do with fashion, marketing and sales. Fashion often has little to do with practicality. You'll probably not accept that 16" is already oversized. In this forum and on the site you will find many owners of various models who want and do downsize the wheels (and tyres) the car arrived to them with for matters of comfort and practicality, our 3rd-world roads often bring the idea and hasten the change to a smaller size. 205/55/16 tyres against 225/40/18 tyres (all figures nominal) the 16" tyres have (nominally) 0.9" (25.7%) (23mm) more sidewall height giving pneumatic cushioning to the (smaller) wheels, rest of the suspension and car. Big debate on whether any insurance provider has any influence over this but check your policy or with your provider as I think (I'm no expert) they want to know of such changes as they things can increases risks to you and them and if the model is only standard up to 17" and you want 18" they may (I don't know I'm not an expert) want to increase your premium (and some an admin fee too). Grip, handling, comfort and road noise is about the design, construction and composition of the make and model of the tyre rather than its size over one or two size range, a very good small 'un will often be better than a good big 'un, As always check any information from any source (bloke of internet, manufacturers and others databases) with if possible at least another couple of reliable sources. https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/octavia/2016/#trim-mk3-a7-5e-2013-2017-20-tdi--148 205/55/16 against 225/40/18 tyres - (all figures nominal) - https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/ If Carlston swings by he'll provided you with lots of details on the wheels (and perhaps tyres). HTH.

It won't they should just last longer but they are a thicker battery than the 2025 recommended(?) battery for the fob. 2025 is 20mm diameter and 2.5mm thick, 2032 is 20mm diameter and 3.2mm thick. Most car owners don't realise how much hassle the car's battery being in a low state state of charge can cause even when the car starts and the lights seem bright enough, all sorts of unexpected warning lights and messages and other issues can appear and things get worse if the battery isn't sufficiently charged, often needs the use of an appropriate battery charger maintainer. In my wife's 2015 Fabia's remote I have previously used 2025 off a mixed card of button batteries from the likes of the pound shop and they have worked fine - but the remote fob isn't a proximity type like KESSY, personally I'd never want such keys, more to go wrong, I'm happy to stick with using keyblades, as you often have to when the remote type foul up, I'm that mush of an old-fart. 😄 Are you sure they even look, my wife's car is usually serviced at the local Skoda Dealership and I'm not sure they plug a scan tool in and if they did for a specific repair I'd expect them to start suggesting parts replacements rather than proper diagnostics. Some members on Briskoda have VW appropriate scan tools and may be able to give you at least a scan tool report or be able to do diagnosis - some for free or for beer tokens (others may be professional services so professional charges but I don't know that for sure). Keys does need as certain level of scan tool to have the relevant program on. It may be worth your while to have a look at the following list and see and enquire if someone near to you may be able to help you. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) HTH.

I can remember cleaning wheels - but not why. 😄