Former

Sadly neither is event or the outcome is too rare. Some expect everything to be accurately recorded somewhere but some relies on living memory, work employee memory for some quite surprising stuff you'd not expect and memories go away, are lost or die, as with all, who controls the information can write or rewrite the history, I'm sure you know all about this from earlier (and now times ) of power, education and learning from medieval times and before perhaps AI will give us a new chapter. 😄 Pass the Dutchy on the left hand side.

You might be right as 22 appears to possibly include clip 29 by the use of the drawing bracket to panel 22. It's not clear as the drawing bracket is so close to the number 23. Some lists will give quantity against the part number that makes things clearer (example only - 1 panel, 6 clips). Don't have too much faith in parts drawings even from manufacturers as they can have errors and omissions. Have look at the following parts site for a difference to the one shown but until you have the factory fitted part out you don't know for sure how accurate any drawing is or if the part you get is exactly the same. - https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/

The roads you and I are referring to are not dangerous roads, any road can be dangerous if an inappropriate vehicle, driver driving inappropriately is on it. You reduce the risks by reading the road ahead whilst driving on it and don't go for spaces that are too narrow. You like many youngsters seem to be confusing numbers on dials with fun or too low or too high speed, get your eyes off the dials more and on to the whole area you can see out of your windows. Those roads look great the lanes each way are very wide so you can carry "speed" and momentum and use the space available in more interesting cars to drive. As with those Welsh roads (and Scottish) it depends on what and how much is on them at the same time as you, they could be holding you, and others, up or you could be holding them, and others, up. Most, not all, "classic" car drivers, in UK at least, so rarely use the "classic" that they don't know how well it could, or should, handle and don't have the experience, knowledge or trust in the vehicle to drive it as designed. Many very smart and shiny "classic" cars look very good but mechanically and other ways may be quite poor, not properly fully serviced and maintained or fully driven so are driven as if a precious and/or very old car not capable of much. Some scruffy "classic" cars can be the same and some very smart and shiny cars can be very good and driven as designed or a scruffy go very well and driven as designed. Over here we have an annual "Drive it Day" for "classics" and older car and motorbikes to promote their existence and as a political move for the umbrella club, I call it "Drive it for only one day of the year Day" then many won't bother if the weather isn't right - it was one day of the year I might avoid using my "classic" so as not to get stuck behind a line of draggy-aresed driven "classics". I don't drive fast but I don't want or need to drive my cars like they're fragile or incapable and I knew what my "classics" and I were capable of with them as I drove them all year round on all types of roads. Modern cars, particularly super cars or expensive poser cars can also suffer from lack of use by the driver and hold you up on the bends and twisties, again I am not a fast or good driver, and then many accelerate on the long straights to hold you up again at the next set of bends. Some even hold you up on the straights. I've no trouble with anyone going at their own speed on the road and I'm more than happy to let a faster driver passed me as soon as possible in whatever they're driving. If I see a complete idiot driver or rider I will where possible either turn off and go another way or pull over and wait for them to get far enough away.

With all your research I expect you already know this but in case not and for others that don't, on Google Earth there a 'show historical images' button that bring up a slide with years going back for the satellite shots. Our area includes black and white aerial overlaid photos from 1946, anything to do with ordinance given the year, I don't know. This is on PC/laptop(?) version, I don't know about the versions any "smart" devices of any size, I don't think Street View is on the "smart phones" (which often aren't much cop as a phone or to view imagines in daylight outside. On a very quick look the year 2000 appears to be the first year of any detail for Wigan (town).

Are you sure that's Wales, smooth road, and with fresh looking tarmac and white lines at side. Whether it is or not, centre white lines are for opposite lanes of traffic but not always used if the road is narrow. Especially now with modern vehicles so big and heavy and with oversized wheels and overwide tyres if there was a white centre line and the vehicle stayed to the left of it the nearside wheels might be partly or fully off the edge of the road surface. There's loads of width to that road for the wide AM, never mind width it's length looks like it would still be on the road and looks like two Midgets going in opposite direction might be able to pass each other and both remain on the road surface. Remember that's a modern car, loads of electronic and computer driver aids flattering the driver and keeping it on the road (and dulling the driving experience). The AM has just gone by what looks like a 'passing place' (top right of photo) so I expect the road is clear of other vehicles coming in the opposite direction at least, or the AM pulled in to the passing place and let any vehicle coming from the opposite direction by. Most of us here don't drive on the road as if it's a racetrack, plus on a racetrack the traffic is all going in one direction and no cyclists, pedestrians, horses, free run sheep, rocks, stones, mud. You drive within the limits of yourself, the vehicle road and weather conditions - that's a dry day with good light, empty road which is twice the width of the car. The whole car car will be in good condition of service, maintenance and repair, weighted down with sensors and computer programs and activators which will compensate or overcome many small gaps in physical or driver requirements, but obviously physics and driver errors and stupidity can beat the car and its systems and components and parts. You sound like you want to drive too fast on the roads you like rather than learn to drive at appropriate speeds on roads you feel are dangerous, if you learnt to drive on such roads you might find you drive a lot smoother on the roads you like which might be quicker than any (excessive?) tyre screeching technique. If that's Wales AM is a waste on such a dry day having a tin-top instead of drop top and being more of a wider road sports tourer and too modern for fun, any ordinary older car would be more fun to drive than the AM on that road on such a day. A rear engine Estelle would be great fun on that road. With somethings in life you don't have to be as money wealth as a King to feel like a King and a King is missing out because of the trappings of his life (Charly-boy was an AM fan from earlier times). I'm now imagining you on that road coming the opposite way in a massive luxury 4X4 stationary in the very middle of the road expecting me in whatever vehicle to pull off the road or try to get by your stationary vehicle, with barely two wheels of my vehicle on the road, so that you remain totally on road, scared to use the 4X4 vehicle even slightly as it was designed for or to dirty your tyres or wheels. 😄 I'm only joking.

@Tintowellfan did you get things sorted? I'm the, near local forums, battery charging 'nutter' (but not expert, in anything) so perhaps I can help you if you still need/want (though I think all other posters were also trying). Just to check I've got the right end of the stick you have a 2023 VWSkoda Fabia with it sounds like an EFB battery, which you have been charging with a smart (they not really that smart) 4-amp charger maintainer. The Fabia battery takes longer to recharge on the charger than the Mokka you had. I don't know the Mokka, a very quick Google search and it might be post 2014/16 with stop/start hence the AGM battery (beyond VW) - a 2023 car generally has more computer and electric stuff than a bit earlier car so more demanding on battery and perhaps alternator. I've no idea if a 2022 Mokka would be better with its electrics, battery charging and computer programming than a 2022 or 2023 VWSkoda Fabia. For possible answers more info is required and in the same way different people use more fuel than others their electric/battery use can vary. What Ah is the EFB battery in your Fabia? Did you note the battery voltage before starting the charging with your 4-amp charger maintainer? How low is your low mileage use, how long is the car parked up (I'll assume it's always locked even if garaged)? Does your Fabia have things like 'coming home'(?), KESSY keyless entry and start, heated seat(s), others? Are you old school scrap/clear all windows or heater/blower/air-con, heated glasses on and let them do all the work? Are there any Recalls (those admit to anyway) on your car, there was a battery [ETA: management] recall on earlier cars previously (whether it was actually the battery or VW programing or other parts or components I've no idea)? Recall actions here. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns My wife has a 2015 Mk3, I fitted an AGM battery to it in 2021 (and discovered the 'joy' of 'coding' such things) as my wife's Fabia does very short journeys every work day, usually only two now, and I wanted as little hassle with this car as possible (if only!!) so purchased out of want rather than need. The first time I done a preventative charge on it, forget when, using the newly purchased for the task Ring Smart (it's not) Charger & Maintainer, 4-amp, RSC804, IIRC it took 15/16 hours to get to "Ful" (full) and this was on a preventative recharge the battery wasn't that low (forget voltage reading) that the stop/start wouldn't activate. The battery is a Bosch (labelled, Varta apparently) AGM, 60Ah. I would normally use a lower amperage charger and take longer but it's not my car and it's has to be available for use at short notice for my wife's very full socialising and shopping needs which can opportunistic in mature (quality time apart from me). Of course it may not be, or have been, your battery at fault.

@Winston_Woof you've done a lot more than vast majority if not all, I wasn't trying to say you were illegal in anyway. I'm like you I really value good neighbours or at least those that aren't too bad, I grew up on council estates, one where I literally had (new) clothes stolen of the washing line, and worse, we've lived here 42 years because the neighbours on the whole are very good (even me) but things change, people move and people change. My mate done installations on commercial properties, one in the old red-light district we saw a few sights on the (time-lapse VCR in this case, digital was expensive then) recordings from there, high romance it wasn't, fast it was, even without speeding up the replay to get to the bit of recording the customer wanted but couldn't find for himself. With one of the cameras on the old office building ("national headquarters") we were able to help one of our neighbours with his car being vandalised, nowhere near the time he said, it was a neighbour of his that he'd been drink with in the club that night that damaged the car as he left the club by himself, came as a surprise to the car owner who was expecting local kids. My mate used to do a few covert installations, often for family businesses, often as simple as a hole in a cardboard box, simpler days, often it was to catch, or caught, a member of the family with their hand in the till or creating further stock shrinkage, not everything recorded or viewed is what you want to see and the people you trust or distrust turn out to be opposite. Whatever happens wherever usually there's not enough cameras, or they're at the wrong angle, field of view, lighting, cleaning, maintenance, playback quality (even if view quality looks fine), computer stuff, power, time, etc. - but apart from that they can be good sometimes. 😆 Do you stand at your windows 24/7 or 23:00 -7:00 then. I'm only joking. I'm no expert on this, or anything else, but I think you have been very reasonable and so would most people, when you get someone that isn't reasonable with you generally it doesn't matter what you've done or not done if they're determine to stick to their attitude - and I don't think any of this will affect your car insurance question. Some banks used to have some of the worst systems and camera(s) installation(s) and camera or system repairs (not that we done any of either) weren't popular in prisons, with the prisoners or some of the staff, one of the camera reps, who looked particular not from these shores, regaled us with a couple of stories of him being escorted though with the prisoners in their cells, he certainly needed his great sense of humour, it was all very nasty stuff for him to experience and to listen to but you just had to laugh with the way he told it. Some of his companies cameras were literally bomb-proof, or resistant. 😄

You seem a more than reasonable person to me and do more than most, and with your CCTV, I could pick a few holes and if you have a disgruntled neighbour or visitor they might find them and a few more that may or may not exist, you'll never please all the people and probably not all all of them all of the time, such is life. The ICO link says it all about the wooliness of it all. An old mate would know more as he's been in CCTV since the 80s mainly commercial but some domestic and one time (not) selling a government contract product which I think only ended up watching bails. I've not done any (office and monkey, monkey installation assistance) work for him for many years back but his personal office system was at pixel level detection and blocking even then, course probably not as many pixels as now but I'd guess the trickle down programs and systems might be quite reasonable cost now - or specialist only and gone up in relative price. How many garages do actually have cars in, modern cars are so big (and heavy) if they fit in the garage you need to exit the car through a sunroof. Last week I was talking with a Property Manager (or whatever they're called now) and he was complaining about a conveyer(?) enquiring about the garage at a property we were in, it's actually a plastic and glass lean-to about 5' wide with single plastic and glass domestic door, you'd struggle to get a motorbike through the door. 😄 Someone before had mentioned a garage so there must be an error in some listing somewhere but a quick look at the plans, Google Earth Street View or heaven forbid site visit would confirm the matter. Hacking the neighbour's doorbell opposite would be a waste of time as they have their door another side and inlet porch, not that I have a clue if you can as I'm not a criminal or have a criminal mind. I hope that's your grass area on no.4 picture as some people like to get an allover suntan and it's not always an over-pleasant image on your retina and eye-worm. 😆

Bugger, I missed that. 😄 Let us know their answer when you get it. 🙂

@Winston_Woof having dealt in the past with a couple of much, much less complicated boundary issues I'd say whatever agency you ask you'd possibly get different answers, and different answers from different people in any one agency, but you want to know where you stand for car insurance. This I believe will depend on the insurer, one insurer may view it differently to another, remember in the end there are two parties to the contract and neither is obliged to take the other so they will generally stick with how they have things even if another insurer sees it differently. I have experience of how different insurers react differently to the same facts, give their interpretation and stick with it even if shown their interpretation is in the very small group against the vast (almost all) majority of insurers giving an opposing view. You seem already to know and accept that many things in life aren't black or white and that with agencies not only can it be that the left hand doesn't know what the right hand is doing they can often contradict each other and everyone else, Also always bear in mind that mistakes can be made about recording things including maps, road marking and signs, etc. - not that I can know if any mistakes were made. Personally I'd not put full faith into landowners / developers / builders companies (all three can be the same company with different names or branches anyway) and conveyance / surveillance / solicitors. You could also worry about CCTV / data protection (though the Police won't as they often rely on it) and if you have a change of neighbour(s) or their behaviour or attitudes changes no matter how friendly, open and tolerant you and your other neighbours are. Your land issue(s) I think if pursued could have some in the legal profession in bottles of plonk for a good while, whereas your car insurance answer you would have each year. If you really wanted you could send the insurer or potential insurer all the details. plans and photos you've put up here for them to make a decision, not that I think they'd be really interested or bothered to do much checking. If you got anything in writing from say the council to say it's a driveway whether that is right or wrong I bet the insurer would accept it - but of course I could be wrong and of course as you know council get stuff wrong and have incorrect mapping and details even in these days of "everything being on computers" (it's not). 🙂

If you have access to an appropriate reasonable level scan tool for VWs getting a report from it would probably be helpful. There are owners on here who may be able to do that for you for possibly beer tokens. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) And as already put a check of the battery and alternator is an and/or to above, though a report may already point towards sources of issue(s). The alternator can be very variable with output because of it's design and battery charging system so more careful testing of that is required but a simple battery check with a multimeter directly on to the battery terminals a good number of hours after the car was last run will give an idea if the battery is in a very low state charge (allowing for if you've unlocked the car and it's computer systems are awake and taking some power doing their things).

I don't know about your model and year but I was very disappointed in the front dampers on my wife's 2015 Fabia as they had to be replaced as a distress purchase on a Dealership MoT at 41k-miles (6 years) and I've seen other Fabia MK3 owners put early replacements of front dampers. A mate's 28 year old Toyota is still on factory fitted dampers all round. To make matters worse the next year's service was done at an independent garage that dealt with VWs among other marques and they told me the front dampers were leaking and would fail an MoT (that they would have done at another place across the road). As the Dealership supplied and fitted dampers had a two-year warranty I contacted them to get the replacements to fit and MoT my wife's car. On the day the Dealership rang my wife to say the dampers didn't need replacing as they were only misting and this is acceptable. They didn't even list it as an Advisory on the MoT they done. I'd never heard of misting dampers so a bit of research and I found it listed as an Advisory on a MoT I found on the web (though I forget the details now). So if you've not asked other 2019, 1.5 TSI Karoq owners about this perhaps it might influence your decision about the dampers - or the VWSkoda dampers have improved or weren't/aren't so poor on your model and year.

Thanks. You should have seen, perhaps towards the end of some threads that (VW) Skoda UK finally come clean about this IIRC 23 June(?) 2023 after specifying 5yrs/50K miles previously. Too late for my wife's car, £429 at Dealership pricing. In case you're not aware, there's a site for Skoda Recalls (well those that they admit to). - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns Some updates here. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ Free access to Owners Manuals (probably free pdf download for 2018) (service has been unavailable a few times just recently but come back). - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Below is from a couple of years back IIRC.

The VWSkoda manuals are far from perfect, I think they might have been written by a German student engineer then translated to Chinese and then from Chinese to English and VW likes to keep somethings secret that other manufacturers tell you about. To be fair, the VW Owner's Manuals have at least better illustrations than some in my neighbour's new Ren-No! (Nissan) Owner's Manual. I don't know if it's just that unit in your car or whether Ireland being part of Europe (which UK apparently isn't) whether you might get variation(s) on your car that we don't see in the UK. Being old I'm used to manual air-con, if you had a saloon it might be a 4/60 system, you wound (hand-cranked) 4 windows down and drove at 60mph. 😁

😄 Fair enough. 😄 I misread the 'A' as 'R'. 😄 The start/stop isn't just for city traffic it's for any stop to reduce emissions, subject to the computer programs being happy it can be deployed, when these conditions have been mostly meet but it still doesn't deploy it can be that the 12v battery is i n a low state of charge. Now being able to access a 11/2018 Owner's Manual via said site it's somewhat dispiriting to read from it - "The system function depends on many factors. Some of them are down to the driver, the others are systemic and can neither be influenced nor identified" - doesn't say a lot about the computer programing! 😄 The VWSkoda way with heating/cooling controls and their settings is different to what I'm used to (and annoying to me). Seems like perhaps(?) kvndgr8's car also might not have "Recirculated air mode", from 11/2018 Owner's Manual.

Fair enough, I thought I remembered posts / threads / links about VCDS adaptions and on Fabias. Sorry I've no idea what DTS is stands for or ever used VCD so leave it all for someone that does know, plenty of VCDS users and fans around. Then perhaps the new lights and all electrics are all fine and it's a computer program setting as you believe. Good luck with all.

If you are referring to adaption using a scan tool (such as VCDS but not necessarily) you might be better posting or looking at the thread(s) in the 'Diagnostics & VCDS' forum for this. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ LEDs tend to be more sensitive to supply or earth issues so are you sure everything has been sorted with the repair replacement, also not all LEDs are equal in quality some are good or very good some can be poor or rubbish. I am confused (not unusual) by this, that is the normal function, on my wife's 2015 (filament bulbs) the DRLs can be set to (all time) off or on as you have put via a menu in the infotainment screen but your menu might be different for your country and/or year of car. HTH.

Obviously the units vary, I was guessing the 'R' button on kvndgr8's was for recirculate but I could well be wrong, the appropriate Owner's Manual for the car will explain controls and function of the system. AGFalco's photo of the filter housing with releasing clip to the left backs up the photo I've taken from the Mann filter 'Mounting Instruction' attached. CU_CUK_FP 26 006.pdf

Above an image from the internet, it says it's for a Citigo. Have you noticed that yet, if not don't worry about it. All modern cars now all have oversized wheels and wider tyres so more rubber debris in the air and down the drains, more diesel cars after the 1990s con so more crap from their exhausts than previously and of course more cars on the roads overall, many doing very sort distant journeys where they don't fully warm so running well below full efficiency and cleanliness. But if you've not noticed anything yet then don't worry about it. The air-con is useful for cooling a hot cabin in summer and clearing condensation caused by various reasons, You must be young, it's not that far back that small cars didn't have air-con and going back a bit you'd have to have a luxury car to have it or it be on the list of options. We survived many decades without air-con in summers and winters, it is possible, hotter now for many reasons and cars have to be locked and sealed up, and with better sealing, so hold more cabin heat and for longer, also even a Citigo is a bigger car with probably(?) more glass on it than earlier small cars so possibly gets more solar gain (heat from the sun) and more sealed so holds the heat in - but you can overcome most/some of this with a little effort. If you need advice on such things just ask. Normally setting the heater to cold (and keeping the recirculation off) will get cold or cooler air from outside into the cabin, if need the output to the cabin can be speeded up and assisted by turning the blower on to 1, 2, 3 or 4. If you need to know more about operating your heating/cooling system you (and your mechanic, he's the one I worry about) then just read the Owner's Manual for your car for this and other stuff you need to know about your car, free Skoda pdf download free here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Again, if you read and when required refer to the Owner's Manual you'll learn and know a lot about your car and how to maintain and drive it and could save yourself lots of time, hassle and money by sometimes avoiding garages and mechanics. A lot of servicing, maintenance and repairs just boil down to clean and lubricate (including electronics and computers), some/much of it is so simple even I can do it, so you could if you wanted, including most (possibly all) of the service your mechanic might have done. Have you got a list of what was done in the recent service as most services are far from full for the whole car and many services are no more or little more than a change of engine oil change and (hopefully) engine oil filter and a look around for more chargeable work. There's a lot more to a car than just the engine oil, the engine isn't the most important thing, brakes, steering and suspension (all three include tyres), then safety electrics (lights, horn, blower, wipers perhaps) and glass (windows and mirrors) - see and be seen. Start new threads if you want or need to know about other stuff and as you've seen posters here will help you. HTH.

I'm not very mechanical or expert in anything just going on my limited experience with other cars. If you can get a closer look with more light there you might confirm the boot is open which could have got dirt/debris inside in which case the droplink needs replacing, personally I'd always replace such parts in pairs. I've no idea how awkward or not that droplink might be to replace, the nuts can be a right PITA to get off. Possibly a thin-headed spanner to hold the thread part on its hex might be needed but I don't know, other Superb owners will. Going at it with a rattle gun drill, if you can get one in there, might make things worst or might loosen the nut straight away (with a spanner the other side?). I'd clean and pre-soak, and leave to soak in, the fixings in PlusGas or GT85 the day or night before trying to get the nuts off. PlusGas is a good penetrating, releasing fluid, GT85 is that too and a load of other benefits, unfortunately neither are British companies anymore. https://www.plusgas.co.uk/en-gb https://gt85.co.uk/ One way to find out if it's that droplink causing or contributing to noise and feel(?) is to remove it and carefully test by a short slow drive with turn, preferably off the public road (that's anywhere that the public can be) and if the noise and feel through steering and pedals has gone that's probably it. Let us know how you get on and what the resolution is, cheers.

@Vlady what did you decide to do, or done and the results?

@aquaman68 did you get the hose connector and boot electrics sorted, what were the fixes?

As it's generally quite here you might be better asking on, or doing a Search in, Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013) - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/28-skoda-octavia-mk-ii-2004-2013/ Being a VRS is it spark plug sensitive, wants certain number NGK, I assume all the petrol MK2 Octavias VRS have the same engine type. If you've got ODIS doesn't it record number of misfires, perhaps a full readout and Search or post in 'Diagnostics & VCDS' but again it tends to be quiet there too. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ HTH, good luck.

Is the marked up a blanking plate with capnuts? If you don't have air-con you don't have a cabin filter according to Mann. - https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/vehicle/MANN-FILTER Katalog Europa/Vehicles/CARS + TRANSPORTERS/SKODA/Citigo (NF1)

Yes 27 is what's on my VWSkoda list of fuse assignments and same in the Owner's Manual for my wife's 2015 , 15A (blue) - (on fuse holder C -SC27) - (terminal 75x, motor V12). But VWSkoda along with all manufacturers can have errors and omissions in their info and databases and fuse box assignment and diagrams are sometimes know to be wrong. I've never tried pulling fuse 27 or any others to find out. But as you have voltage at motor it doesn't matter, I've no idea of pins to terminal, the likes of Breezy_Pete would know more about the electrics and pins and electric diagnostics but you'd have to call him as AFAIK I'm on, or are all of it, his poster(s) "Ignore" list, you could PM or DM or wotever it's called him or see if he turns up here, or put an @ directly attached to his name, as you type more characters the list get more appropriate, once put in a post and that will be send a notification to him. - e.g. - @nta16 I can give you a link to the electrics diagrams, here. -https://cardiagn.com/skoda-fabia-mk3-2015-2019-2020-workshop-manuals-wiring-diagrams/ Allowing for Sod's Law, if you've not already done so, a direct battery to wiper motor test should prove the motor. For the stalk I was thinking of mechanical movement and checking checking wire connector, otherwise it's the joy of removing the stalk for a look-see but that be the last thing I'd do in this case. I have removed the stalk and done a guide on it, the video there shows the stalk removal and out of car. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/495150-windscreen-wipers-dont-turn-off-come-on-by-themselves-fabia-mk3