Former

First thing I always think of , to keep things simple and basic and hands clean, check the battery terminal clamp connections are clean and secure and same for main live and earth cables and connections, that the battery is at a good state of charge. Then I might consider the stalk internal connections (and grease) might have a fault(s). If you have access to a good level (above generic code reader) VW appropriate scan tool get a report and if possible tests. You could see if there's a member near to you that might be able to help with this from following link. -Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) HTH.

@RickW you might already know this and I've got the wrong end of the stick but if not - to get direct (depending on his settings perhaps?) to pab567 from this thread start with the 'at' symbol then, no space, go on typing his site name and you'll get a drop list of members, the more characters of pab567 you type the shorter the list and closer to his site name to click on it or just type the lot. HTH.

Your Owner's Manual will tell you fuse locations, sorry I don't have a list for 2011 Superb but I'd expect it to be a standard size blade fuse, the amperage rating of that blade fuse would depend on what else is on the fuseway but it will be on the blade fuse somewhere. Free VWSkoda PDF downloads of the Owner's Manuals from this VWSkoda website if you don't have the handy (no batteries needed, can be viewed in daylight) paper printed copy. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com HTH.

I think this is the worry to some VCDS users, the one click, (I like one click and shortest least complicated paths with computers) that if the one click does the job fully and correctly and reliably. I dislike "phones" as my eyes are wonky and weak and fingers too short and stubby and touchscreens don't like my skin or lack of eye to finger coordination plus I don't like relying on fading power supplies and screens you can't see in daylight let alone when the sun is out, and radio interference or reception. A wired scan tool picking up its power from the car port from inside the darker weather protected car is more to my liking with thick selection bands for my thick fingers and thick me - but I can't afford a decent one and would begrudge it being bias towards VW. A neighbour and I done a bit of research and fact finding for a mate's 1996 Ford Zetec 130 engine (that's wasn't in a Ford or had anything but engine electronics) when my mate was given one (of the two) conector tails from his mate's old garage turn of the century Ford diagnostic machine (forget what it was called). In the meantime another chap he knew that deals with old single seater Fords plugged his machine giving the same (very limited) results backing up what he said would be the problem, without even seeing the car, as it was so common, a straightforward part swap out - oh for such simple days. 😄 Ford were doing this stuff in the 1970s - but good uld BL had ideas in the late 60s(?) early 70s. 😄 German engineering, hah! - 1971: Is this the CAR of the FUTURE? | Tomorrow’s World | Retro Tech | BBC Archive - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Woz270D1HE

TBF it was a OBD11 user that help me (I thought he was referring to OBD2 😄), VCDS is VW specific so will resonant more to VW brands forums and websites, I don't know but assumed OBD11 wasn't VW specific sio wider but less depth appeal, plus OBD11 certainly looks more attractive and appealing to mas users. Again I don't know but get the feeling from what I've read on here (not looked or researched though) OBD11 not being a legacy system isn't as detailed or accurate(?) system as VCDS plus of course the mighty "smart" phone (tablet, tray) is more appealing to modern eyes and use (I can't wait for the first AI scan tool. 😁) Given the cost level of a generic scan tool to reliably be able to perform such as a regen (and as a pure guess only on VW computer programs) the VCDS is quite a bargain perhaps as with many things some promise but you want those that can deliver. I've know garage level scan tool not be able to do more specific stuff (on a different makes of cars). Only other suggestion I have is to perhaps try on the relevant model Octavia forum here, perhaps if not OBD11 advice they could give you other advice about regen. Good luck.

I haven't the first clue about the maths but an old racing saying was power for ego torque for wins. One way to increase power is to reduce weight, car and in some cases driver unless in such things as full pro dragster 10,000+ hp or privateer professional racing drivers are muscular but not large people, some of the really old drivers were more like jockeys. It's all about how something feels to you not in comparing as there's no end to others having more, and the more you have the more you want even if you can rarely use anywhere near 100% of what's available. Get everything mentioned before done, a good set of tyres and learn to drive the car (within its and your capabilities) and then see what more you want and if it's achievable with what you have, if not you need to move on. Very, very unpopular I know but one of the very best tuning aids is further driver training and this is fully transferable to all/most future cars and principles to other road vehicles. (I was talking with a road trainer from ROSPA this afternoon and I'm not sure he believed me when I said I often put this on the internet as advice.)

Justin, thanks. Just a few points then I'll leave you to it. Sorry I didn't mean to suggest you were in any way wrong in posting here, it is after all called 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' and that's what you are asking about, I didn't make myself clear (often happens) I was thinking as it can be rather slow in this section and for more specific info with B6s fitted to Mk3 Octavia VRSs. I totally agree with replacing items before they fail and before they go too far out from optimum and reasonable and reliable performance (particularly on a performance car driven in a way it was designed (hence why I have no money and car now 😄). Many performance dampers can be "rebuilt"/"refurbed" (of course this means time off the car or two or more sets) and I expect each manufacturer has there own expected life for their different models of damper based on use of course. Things do wear as you say, oils now available cope better with things and help reduce some wear and keep things like seals in better condition for longer. Calculator out, 35k divided by 1.5, times 0.9, is (if I've pressed the right buttons) say 21k /year of rough A / B roads. +1500 Kg isn't heavy for a modern car (doesn't need 18" wheels) but isn't lightweight which is fair enough for a 5 seater road car. Depends if you are fitting the dampers yourself or paying someone else to do that and if it matters anyway. A mass market damper (like Bilstein brand name) may well be very fine and reasonably long lasting or you could perhaps look at a road sport damper from smaller British specialist companies( and perhaps adjustable dampers) which should be robust and reasonably longer lasting if only used on road driving. These things can be not as expensive as first thought and good value if more durable in performance. Tyres, 😄 I'm more used to when 70 was low profile. You'd probably not want too higher performance tyres at 23k/year. I've seen that vid before, from another poster on here, and whilst I'm not a fan of the presenter the point is made that small variations in size won't make a big difference, particularly on modern cars with all the electronic"aids" on them, it's the design, build, make-up, composition of one tyre against another that can make more difference (hence all the tyres and associated specialist people you see at motorsports (not that I follow or particularly like motorsports). Do bear in mind I'm not an expert in anything especially suspension and tyres but when I had the money I'd give a set of tyres 1k-miles (on road going only "sports" cars) and if I didn't like them I'd change them, what's the point of having a 'performance' vehicle (and this could be a MX-5 1.6 or 64hp a.n. other) if you can't get the performance you want (doesn't have to relate to paper figures or needles on dials or digital readouts). Just opinions of a bloke on the internet, as always each to their own. Enjoy your car how you like to enjoy it, good luck, perhaps report back at some point and give what you actually done and how it worked out to what you wanted and needed, cheers.

@Camera FIRST - You carry out a full and proper service, maintenance and repairs as required on the whole car. Attention to brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres), safety electrics (lights, horn, wipers, blower, etc.), windows and mirrors. Then full road tests of the vehicle. Then you, if required, upgrade /improve the brakes and suspension (often tyres), note not all upgrades and improvements items are better overall for the car's use. Full road tests and further changes or alterations ETA: as required or perhaps even return to previous items before the upgrade/improvement. LAST is engine upgrades and improvements.

@D.FYLAKTOS thought of you today, I was driving on the road below, not one I have been more than a few times and it's within 10 miles of my home. First photo shows something for you to worry about, a large van coming in from the opposite direction out of blind bend, luckily at one of the few places with a bit wider tarmac (just before trees on right) so he pulled over and let us through, all four of our wheels just about on tarmac. (Forgive quality of images, off Google Earth, as I am using using a very old, but sturdy computer as mine completely fouled itself up as I am sure they are designed to do.) That was the only vehicle we saw on the road but we parked up to look at the sheep in the fields both sides of the road, in the image below, as we waited for three horses and riders to pass coming from the other way. We had left a single track open field road (no fences or hedges, no livestock) just before road above with parts you could fly along as the sight lines are so good but you must be aware of wildlife that might suddenly appear that you could injury or kill (most likely birds).

Hi welcome. If you mean fuse 44 "Cigarette lighter, 12-volt power socket" as in the 07.2018 Owner's Manual that looks like a standard blade(?) fuse to me, 15 Amp is blue. Free VWSkoda PDF downloads of the Owner's Manuals from this VWSkoda website if you don't have the handy (no batteries needed, can be viewed in daylight) paper printed copy. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com Seems a waste to get something that small through the likes of Amazon. HTH.

Now you are making yourself look silly - just because you didn't read the post, and my other posts, fully and/or can't or don't want to comprehend what I've put doesn't mean you have to make the same repeated comments and jibes those posts. Whatever your problems are, and it has been proved, I can not help you so please stop pestering me, and I think other posters could do without such treatment too,

Sorry I've edited to add the words that were in my head but didn't get typed in the post. In the UK, as you may remember, a solid white centre line on your side of the road means do not cross/overtake (very few exceptions, and double solid white centre lines apply to both sides of the road).

Justin, as you've asked for advice, here's mine as a total no-expert on anything, you might not like some or all of it. The factory fitted front dampers on my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 SE weren't good and leaked at 41K/6years, the Dealer fitted replacement were "misting" in less than 12 months of being fitted, I've seen other Fabia Mk3 owners put about front dampers too. Now it may be that 2015 Octavia VRS dampers are better quality (well they've lasted 2 years longer at least). A neighbour had a 20+ year-old Toyota Yaris and a mate has a 28 year-old Toyota Supra both retain their fatted fitted damper and springs. Normally, but not always as I've had a few on the cars I've had, I'd be careful about suspension "upgrades" and "improvements" as often they aren't or even not as good but had we a choice I would have put better front dampers on my wife's Fabia than the stuff VWSkoda use but we had a "distress" purchase having just about run out of mot time (my fault, normally I go for rolling 13-month MoT). People often change dampers and springs when much of the issue may be caused and cured by renewing suspension bushes, again my wife's car has squeaked, knocked, moaned & groaned for a good while and I see other Fabia Mk3 owners put they change lots of things over years and still have a knocking/creek. I'm not against polybushes, had a few sets on different cars, some makes are better than others. Some say they squeak too after a while, I've never found that on the ones I had fitted, I saw a vid where a chap said it was all down to how the bushes were fitted (pressed in and use of correct grease IIRC) and I can imagine that. Recently a Karoq owner asked about B6s on here and was advised by his mechanic they'd not suit his vehicle, (firmer ride which may suit you with your model, no idea about your model but I'd suggest, if you've not already done so, you ask other Mk3 Octavia VRS owners with B6s fitted (preferably with same wheels and tyres fitted as you. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/520899-new-shock-absorbers-is-it-worth-it/page/2/#comment-5829844 All modern cars are fitted with oversized wheels and tyres which are overwide and very low profile, even shopping trollies it's a fashion thing, so the more sporty models get even bigger, wider slimmer. Tyres of course as you probably already well know are a very important component in the braking, steering and suspension systems, for suspension they affect the handling, road holding, ride and noise comfort, and to an extent so does their size. As with many things (including even fashions) more isn't always better overall and sometimes less might be better overall. HTH.

Have you tried posting on the Octavia Mk2 forum. Is VCDS Release 23.11.0:01the latest update for the software or for your model of car (it could be the date for all I know about the (horrible looking to me) VCDS program presentation). A quick Google research returned this thread that had a resolution, you'll need to check the whole thread out, checking the relevant fuse and any other supplies from that fuse was one idea, resolution at the end of that thread for this may of course not be the same for you but might give some/more ideas perhaps. - https://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/198389-The-dreaded-quot-Short-to-ground-MIL-ON-quot It may not apply in your case here but the principle in bulletpoint 4 item in the last post of Page 1 of the thread I've found to apply many times for my work and others. HTH

The Owner's Manual aren't the best written. It's best to do a long, slow, low recharge, in stages if needed (than a quicker, fast, high recharge). Fully recharge the battery, keep going until the appropriate charger maintainer shows full, repeat the charging if you don't have the time on first charging to get to full, if the battery is low this can take many hours overnight, or more if the battery is very low. A very low battery can still start the car and the lights may seem bright enough but the car's computers won't like it and throw up all sorts of unexpected issues and warning lights and messages. If the battery is say a 69 Ah (on battery label) then you divide by 10 so a 6.9 amp charger is recommended usually, 6-amp chargers are sold - or I would use a 4-amp or lower charger maintainer personally. From my wife's 05.2015 Owners Manual - Despite want many men think there's no law against reading manuals and instructions - or doing preventative car battery charging with an appropriate battery charger maintainer a couple of times a year and/or as required. I can give you links to info on car battery charging and the VW stop/start system if you want or there's loads of info on the net (as always some good some not so good or bad). HTH.

Based only on the stretch of road I can see in the photo [ETA: in the Uk] there would probably not be solid white line(s) centre lines - unless perhaps near a road hazard but then more likely just long white line as hazard waning.

Hi, welcome. Assuming (always dangerous do double check) that this website(s) has the correct info. - https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/fabia/2017/#trim-mk3-nj-2015-2022-10-tsi--109 For different ET. - https://www.willtheyfit.com/ Up to you to check fitment to car and other issues. I'm all for smaller (thinner) wheels and higher profile tyres but cheaper, more comfort and less noise depends on the tyres you fit, not sure about the better mpg depends on rolling resistance of tyres. If Carlston comes by he'll give get lots of info and options. HTH, if not just ask.

Phil, unless or until Carlston swings by you might be better asking on Karoq forum, bear in mind a wheel that fits on paper might not be so easy depending on the tyre you put with it as tyres vary in width with tyre make and model even at the same nominal size, plus take into account if any other changes to the suspension have been made. According to the following link, if their information is correct (I'd be on 16" or 15" if they fit over brakes, more tyre sidewall to cushion the blows, tiny bit more responsive pick up). - https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/karoq/2020/#trim-nu7-2017-2023

The modern version above is good for faster A to B driving in a modern car or perhaps cruising but far too wide for a Spridget and faster or more modern car would be at possibly illegal speeds. In the mid-1980s I used to commute to the next town and it would be like your first photo only with some cars coming from the other way too, usually the line would run at 50 mph (80kph) and most day I would see exactly the same cars and know if were running a little later or earlier by where a certain car would pass-by from the opposite and at which tree on the side of the road. I used to call the row of cars going in my direction a traffic-train and thought if we got a long rope the car at front could pull the rest of us. Only one car, a couple of times that I saw, that ever bothered to overtake and that was probably a sales rep's car as it had the all important 'i' in the boot badge, he never got more than a few cars ahead by the time we got to the town. The road isn't a lot better now, in fact worse as it often features on local radio traffic reports for delays at a small roundabout that wasn't there in the 80s and last time I travelled on it we all went at 40-45 mph (65-72 kph) and it was out of peak times, ah, progress. 😄

Two from a couple of gated field roads not far from where I live, second is just over the county border, quite a few similar roads in Northamptonshire plus other great country roads for Spridget driving. September 2020 Northamptonshire May 2020 just in Warwickshire

@D.FYLAKTOS I was going through the files from my wife's old phone and found a few for you. This is in Wales, you can tell by the clouds, just off one of those roads, September 2017.

If there are worries you can get petrol additives that deal with ethanol. This is all a repeat of when unleaded petrol was introduced in the UK 25-30years ago when many doomsayers in the "classic" scene where saying it would be then end of their cars back then. I expect some/many of the very same doomsayers still have exactly the same vehicles but driving them even less than back then, if that is possible. Rubber doesn't last for ever many old cars will have old rubber and if parked up most (almost all) times then the cars aren't being used as designed so you can expect problems ethanol or not. I can assure you about 20 years back there was a lot of ****-poor rubbish rubber fuel hose being sold by the "classic" car part sellers and at other motor factors in the UK. I bought three different lots of 1/4" rubber hose from three different motor factors in three different counties (areas of the country) and all three leaked in a short space of time. Replaced with Goodyear 6mm (R6 at the time IIRC) and that was fine (and a better fit than 1/4").

I hope you're not suggesting the brilliant German engineers and German engineering quality hadn't prepared for the introduction of ethanol given others markets were using 10% decades before, you're surely not saying the engineers were wrong, I've never know that. 😁 Must have been all others in the company, never engineers. 😉

Hi, you're in the 'Handy Topics & Guides' section, Ill report and suggest this is moved to Superb Mk1 forum where you should get replies more appropriate and relating to the 2.5 V6 tdi if you mention this engine.

Well it's all dealing with ancient technologies, internal combustion engines and car manufacturers computers. 😄 If enough people moaned about America enough on the net their AI might turn on them and we all might be in trouble, luckily they're far too invasive to allow this unless others hide it from them. 😄 Thank gawd we have ethanol to worry about instead. 😄