Former

First thing I'd do is check the state of charge of the battery and that the battery terminals and their clamps are clean and secure, whilst there that the battery is secure and the main cables connections (including earths) are also clean, secure and protected. Charge the battery with an appropriate charger maintainer to full (over stages if necessary). After that and/or if not that, or as well as, plug in a VW appropriate scan tool and get a report and diagnosis from there checking not just taking a scan tool reported fault as being absolute. If you have someone near on this list they may be able to help for free, beer token or other. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) HTH.

Checking the tape deck with a diy stethoscope is the quickest and easiest check and potentially lead to the easiest thing to stop the noise, as it's UK I might even recognise an old player and even still have the U-bar keys in a tool box.

You need to tell the VW engineers then, from opening post. - Source - Skoda - https://www.skoda.co.uk/news/details/skoda-confirms-all-new-models-are-fully-compatible-with-e10-fuel

ETA: put a photo up of the "tape player" - old cassette units used to have two slots each side for oblong bar releasing keys to go into to release the side retainers so the unit could be pulled forward and out.

Hi, Rob. Very sensible, power steering isn't usually needed in small light cars (unlike the overweight over-wheeled and tyre'd even very small cars modern cars). Central locking just adds weight to the car and more complexity and things to go wrong and you can't just wind the windows up and down without remembering to take the keys, PITA on warm and hot days. I'm with your dad. I was also thinking of water leaks or ingress. That's the thing to check then - as it might be on it's own supply with wire inline fuse and a permanent live that doesn't go via the ignition switch, diy stethoscope time, the vibrations could travel (that's what sound is after all).

IIRC the 5% and 10% were always maximum figures and the UK petrol pump would be labelled as "E5" even if the petrol (not necessarily Shell) at that time had 0% (zero) ethanol in it. The video put up was titled with 17-12-2021 (How Much Ethanol Does Shell V-Power E5 Fuel Really Contain V's Shell Standard E10 Petrol 17-12-2021) so is out of date with the situation since sometime in 2023 (IIRC). And don't take too much notice of the vague time from listing YT puts up. If you research corn growing in America you'll see what this was all about and why food was altered and caused so many problems with their foods which of course invaded the UK's, I often say if you have 'America' as a fiend you never need look for more enemies. Of course this ethanol stuff ain't exactly a new idea, just as an example the poster below is for a UK petrol that was about in the 1960s (even before I was driving) so I was told. - http://www.petrolmaps.co.uk/clevelan.htm

Listening again with cheap 'shell' (full seal and covering of ears) it does sound like a fan/propeller type sound with possibly a catch to something or wobble on bearing or bearing wobble or catching type sound. Water pump(?), alternator I think are out as the engine's not running so leaves(?) blower fan or radiator cooling fan or something else if it is that type of noise. Things that are readily accessible should be fairly easy to hear or lightly feel even perhaps see. In a car you don't know the history of your suspicions may go to something away from factory fitted wiring and items to anything added or changed after the car left the factory, but these are only suspicions and could be entirely wrong. Be interesting to find out what it is and the resolve.

Shouldn't that lose power with ignition off (normally).

This was suggested to my wife [ETA: but we declined it] when the, as I now know unnecessary, rubber belt change at 5yr/50k was done for (IIRC) £420 which would have been better for us to stay in our bank account rather than raising more revenue and profit for the Skoda Dealership, not that I mind about it, much. 😄

On a car new to you (if you're going to keep this car) I always suggest three things - a proper and full service and maintenance to the whole car possibly done in stages whilst using the car to get used to the car and how it drives and how to drive it, at least ASAP doing whole car service checks, priority to brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres) , safety electrics (lights, horn, blower, wipers) and glass (windows, mirrors), see and be seen, engine is down the list (usually). read and refer to the Owner's Manual (in fact I suggest doing this when considering buying the model) make sure the car battery is in a good state of charge (use an appropriate charger maintainer if required) and in good condition, check battery terminals and clamps are clean and secure (same for main cables and connections including earths) as this will help anyway and with any starting or electrical issues and diagnosis of them. Justin as you put you want to be a mechanic (I'm not in any way) this also applies as much as to an owner/driver, much servicing, maintenance and repairs often boils down to clean and lubricate and can be done by anyone if I can do it, such as changing the engine oil & filter and cleaning the airbox and tubes. even though PITA that some of the Skoda models present in this simple task. Your car seems like it may need more than this but will require the basics to be dealt with anyway for best results. Also for a diesel I personally would run the first three tankfulls with "clean" diesel such as Shell V-Power and a tankful or two either side of a engine service or MoT. And I would be particularly very timely and thorough in my changes of engine oil and filter (GIGO). Most car parts now are too expensive and systems too complicated to swap out as just-in-case or just to see, that's without the added labour costs, so careful, checked, diagnostics are generally required but still better to have things reasonably clean and cleaning running to help with those diagnostics, a sensor covered in stuff will affect the running of the car or system and scan report. A good mechanic is also honest about his work and the work required whether that's a great deal, a lot or very little or even next to nothing or nothing, in my many decades of experience there are many fewer good mechanics (or other tradesmen) than there should be. Good luck.

I know this topic has been covered in posts before but as I had the sites open for another topic I thought I would post the sources of information here too. The E5 higher octane petrols also have higher cleaning additives which may give medium and long term benefits of use. PDF of some E5 petrols available (as at 23/12/23). petrol.pdf Source - some blokes off the internet. " . . . drivers of classic ŠKODA models built before 2001 will need to opt for a different grade. Drivers of Felicia models with a 1.3 litre engine built between 1994 to 2001 and all classic models built before 1994 will still be able to source compatible fuels despite the introduction of E10 unleaded. High octane Super unleaded fuel, which is widely available at larger filling stations, will continue have a maximum of 5% bioethanol. Drivers concerned about their car’s compatibility with E10 fuel are advised to check on the UK government’s online check tool: https://check-vehicle-compatibility-e10-petrol.service.gov.uk/ or consult with their retailer.". Source - Skoda - https://www.skoda.co.uk/news/details/skoda-confirms-all-new-models-are-fully-compatible-with-e10-fuel "Škoda E10 petrol is cleared for use in all ŠKODA vehicles with petrol engines with the following exceptions: Felicia 1.3 litre OHV (40kw and 50kW) engines in the production years 1994 to 2001 Other ŠKODA models using the 1.3 litre OHV engines produced prior to 1994. NOTE: If your vehicle is listed above you should continue to use E5 petrol. If you are unsure please contact your local Škoda dealer. I'm still not sure if my vehicle is E10 compatible- If you're not sure if you can use E10 in your vehicle: check the vehicle owner's manual, the instructional booklet is specific to your vehicle look inside of the fuel filler flap ask the car, motorcycle or scooter manufacturer / local dealer If you're still not sure, use E5 petrol. It will still be available in the super grade at many filling stations All content is available under the Open Government Licence v3.0, except where otherwise stated © Crown copyright" Source - GOV.UK - https://check-vehicle-compatibility-e10-petrol.service.gov.uk/manufacturer/Škoda

All over this site, from July 2023 rubber belts at 15 years 180,000 miles but checks each year, doesn't allow for any VW ****-ups with tensioners, or water pumps if driven off these belts which I don't think these are but always check any information you get from any source including manufacturers and some strange bloke down the pub or off the internet (especially if 'is memory ain't the best).

There's also the additional cleaning additives in the higher octane petrols which may give some medium or longer term benefits - but as always each to their own. It's a bit like stop/start isn't great for saving fuel but does save on the emissions coming out when the vehicle is stationary, more noticeable when at a busy town/city junction - but I personally only generally use it at those times and deactivate it at other times, unless I think I might be stationary for a while in which case I reactivate it for Sod's Law seconds later be able to drive off.

@TheWanderer I suspected you might be the type to suddenly have a good humour slip but gave you the benefit of doubt and thought you might go with the flow, sarcasm might be s the lowest form of wit but wit is wit, and do you mean you don't think you're good looking, your photo looks good. Or do you mean you can dish out stuff but not take it yourself. I'm sorry for you that your circumstances have changed but don't expect too much sympathy from everyone with figures like £85K+ and £28K pension, I don't work for HMRC so don't take that out on me. I've known someone who's whole pension went overboard and people whose mum's had dementia and my neighbours with dementia and my neighbour who moved in 8 years ago with his wife already years into early onset dementia and as he recently had a stroke I, in turn with someone else drive him to the care/nursing home to take his wife out for a drive, something he previous did EVERYDAY at the same time from home with the rear windows down because the same music was played so loud. So I Do have sympathy for you with your mum. I can't take him in my car as for the third time in my life out of need/want I don't own a car - keep your 'air on with that. 😉 Give yourself, me and others a break - I was genuinely interested in where you get your petrol prices from if you want to answer that?

Wot a surprise. It would still have needed interpreting and cross-checking. Perhaps you might have someone near you that could give you a report for nothing or a beer token. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me)

@D.FYLAKTOS that's good, do you have the same for engine side of scuttle? I was thinking if @robchap put up photos and there where differences, say from someone adding or altering things or water/damp or other things it might be noticeable especially with a good image that can be zoomed in on.

That's your choice with your "MY23 Red, RS, with a few bits..." you could have also saved money with buying a different level of model or different make and model of car, or not have a car, aren't you lucky to have those choices and the money to enable those choices and have such good pensions to pay so much tax, and good looking too, you've got the moon on a stick. 😊 Which petrol pricing lot do you use, the one my wife uses, with the posh bloke from very old Top Gear, by the time she gets the email the prices are out-of-date?

Excellent, check the basics first to save time, hassle and money and perhaps others being conned that more is need by whoever they might pay to sort things. Any chance you could also post that in the Superb Mk2 forum as there are some on Briskoda generally than can't seem to accept such an easy and basic thing can be the cause or remedy for issues like this and other issues from just this. And low battery is a good thought too that is beyond many's beliefs along with using a battery charger maintainer as recovery, or better still prevention (as the alternator can always take care of charging modern cars!).

Changing the filter was extremely unlikely to make any/much difference to your issue but opening the box does possibly help with the overall diagnosis of the whole car, it's present condition and perhaps past history. Putting a new filter in and cleaning the airbox and tubes will help with getting that little bit more filtered air into the engine which may be useful, perhaps now and later. They didn't do a diagnosis, well not a full one but they should have a record of the full scan report to be able to give or email to you which if you want you could post up here and if you want redact any info you'd sooner not publish on an open public forum about your car's specifics (VIN perhaps).

I'm more shooting in the dark ideas but you did put any and my posting might attract other more knowledgeable poster(s). Have you checked your full pro VAG OBD11 is fully up to date for at least your model, if so checked with OBD11 company or if they have a user's forum looked or asked there. Might be an oversight by OBD11, dare I suggest a programing error, oversight, omission by OBD11 company (apparently I do dare) but I've got no idea. The car will have it's requirements to do stuff to itself and they'd need to be matched, plus the regen not interrupted, the tool needs to get requirements right too, I don't think all machines have it always spot on. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

From 2023/06 Superb Owner's Manual (issue date 19.6.2023) - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Ask the seller to open the fuel flap and take a photo of that, and if it's from a garage or Dealership "sales" man then as some are so lazy and you can't trust them as far as you could throw them a second photo that shows the car's model and VRS badges and open fuel flap to make sure they got the correct model.

Personally I'm not a big fan of the long screwdriver to your ear as your eyes are looking that way, which can be a help, or closing your eyes, in concentrating your mind on locating things, like getting a bolt through an unseen hole, but not concentrating on the long screwdriver tip in an engine bat with engine running and the long screwdriver tip could slip isn't for me (and uncomfortable on my small delicate ears 🙂). This car problem should be from something that is live regardless of ignition switch position but always best not to make assumptions without full conformation from full testing. Scotty should have also given a warning about that hair style. 😄

If you've bought a VRS and want to drive it like a VRS then, as posted before. - ". .. however for the GTI and R models we recommend super-unleaded (98RON)". - https://www.volkswagen.co.uk/en/need-help/need-help-faqs/fuel.html If you have any diesel I pray you put in something like, but not necessarily, Shell V Power diesel for the sake of the minor improvement for those on the road and on the pavements, a quick gear drop and jump on the accelerator and look in your mirrors ought to show you the difference between ordinary and "clean" type diesel. For anyone interested in the 97/99 octane petrols with higher additives. - petrol.pdf Aren't we all lucky to be able to have any car(s) and afford to own and drive them and put any fuel in them.

ETA: Perhaps a video or photos of your battery and its terminal connections, your fuse/relay board with all fuses in and perhaps if you have all clearly labelled all fuses and relays removed if that's not a problem, under dash, scuttle are from engine side - as someone might see something different to usual or perhaps an issue(s). It's obviously not as good as being there but photos particularly can sometimes be good (if shot reasonably) as they can be zoomed in on and see more than the naked eye. Not suggesting it in this case but more than once the first thing I find is the battery or one of it's terminals are loose, the battery isn't as I was told "good" or in a good state of charge. Then other electric connections or wires (including earths) are poor or corroded or dirty and unprotected. Then worst is electric items or wiring done by some others. Bad earths can cause unusual and unexpected consequences. Note, I am not an electrician of any sort or expert, in anything just had a few old cars.

By doing what you have already shows you're certainly not a duffer. You certainly done right by making sure the car battery is fully charged (changed your case) before trying to diagnose an electrical (or engine starting) issue but do bear in mind a battery is just a store and the store can be emptied even if new so disconnecting the battery until you have resolved this isn't a bad idea. I don't think you need it but you can buy things like post disconnectors for long term issues or security or storage, one for example only. - https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/quick-disconnect-battery-terminal I can hear why you thought it might be the blower motor but if you disconnected the power supply to the blower motor then it shouldn't run - unless someone has been messing about with the wiring and caused the problem. D.FYLAKTOS has beat me to one of the things I was thinking, might the sound be from engine side of firewall/scuttle and possibly issues with water/damp might also cover the idea Papez suggested of others being at the wiring after the car left the factory. Noises can travel and be difficult to track down their origination. I think I would set the heater flaps to those dash vents and then block or well cover the vents to prevent that route for the noise to exit fully. Have you tried lifting the bonnet to see if the noise is from that side? Does the car have a/c? Does the car have an alarm system fitted? Do you have a multimeter? Do you have access to a VW or your car model and year appropriate scan tool? If you still think or find the noise is from the dash then drop down the fuses/relay board if it under dash and remove the glovebox if part of dash, to open up the dash as much as possible without disturbing too much, to be able to see and hear behind there. You can make a crude stethoscope with a short length of hose and perhaps a funnel to the end for ear comfort and as a speaker, or use the extension hose off a vacuum cleaner or something similar. Or roam with your phone doing an audio recording and see if on playback you can pin down the noise more. Doesn't matter for a sound recording but for future you generally get more visual information into a frame if you hold you phone at landscape instead of portrait. Good luck let us know how you get on.