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I don't see a problem with the roads in either photo but I do see perhaps some poor quality overtaking if both the car and bike are travelling towards your car travelling in the opposite direction to you taking the photo (video). One of my favorite driving roads in Wales, helped by the fact there are also more great and different driving roads nearby and the likes of the general Porsche/Audi drivers go on the other faster but less interesting roads advertised by the type of TV, magazines and websites they read and watch, and plenty of great British classic pubs selling and keeping well decent ale cask ale and a lot of locals like rally driving so yoy are more likily to hold them up rather than the other way round. This vid gives you no idea of the climbs or drops, the lumps, humps and jumps in the road or the unevenness pf the surface sometimes and holes - and it's not raining or very wet from previous rain fall(s). Still gibes some idea. -

With old stock or new brought bulbs it's best to test them when new and before fitting - I usually remember this just after fully securing the lens cover. New bulbs tend to be pretty poor now I try to get the X2 or X3 life bulbs because 'off the shelf' ones don't seem to last even if they work 'out of the box'. Old cheaper bulbs can vibrate to death if kept in car or cars for many years, or were faulty when they were new anyway. Before swapping over bulbs test both sides are working, with the lenses covers off, putting the hazard on for indicators, then test after swapping the bulbs over sides with the lenses covers off. I once had a neighbour new brake light bulb that when the brake pedal was dabbed was fine but when the pedal was held it went out, the filament broke away from one end with the sustained heat and then dropped back on when cooling, not something you'd think of, and I didn't possibly one of those things you had to see to believe, but it happened. I've also had an intermittent fuse but that's another story. Let us know how you get on.

Hi Dykey, I just realised I might have misread your post do you mean the bulb doesn't work or the car still shows it as not working. If it's the bulb not working post straight back, what years is your car?. No there not a fuse for just one indicator. If its car still showing the bulb not working but the bulb is working - see if the warning remains after you'd driven the car a distance and/or switched the engine and ignition off and back on next time you want to drive the car (the old computer "switch it off 'n' on agen". Let us know how you get on.

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@robbie62 what was the outcome?

What roads , where. That picture is too small for me to see much but in that photo the road looks plenty wide enough even with the pine needles at the edges to get a couple of traditional English sports cars easily passed each other going in opposite directions. If on any road only 4X4s can go on it then yes avoid that road, if most average SUVs with average SUV drivers can go on it then you could probably get a traditional English sportscar along it. The Lotus Elise is a bit low but that was more biased towards road to track mentality. You seem to mistake where the needle points on the speedo with speed and fun, I'm not talking about track driving and ego figures. The many turns is the fun, no you don't put yourself or others in danger so you avoid going on it if you know there will be slower drivers. Two drivers, one behind the other in totally different cars can be on the same road, one in a capable modern family car so bored they have to have some form of in-car entertainment on, the other in a lower powered old car where the drive and driving are the entertainment - both will be travelling at the same speed. Do you really think that England, Scotland and Wales doesn't have fun, and all other, roads that have been allowed to deteriorate and get potholes. If your only aim is to go as fast as you can you need to be on a track.

Thanks, that' what made me wonder also about a bar or other form of reinforcement or load spreading but I'm probably flattering the build.

Yes Insurance companies have authorised the use of used parts for a while now, covid, chip, and other shortages have encourage plus the ply to recycling/environment. For very old cars (30+ years old) many of the parts, certainly not all, were better made and will fit without alterations and work beyond a new part's life.

@NottsIan if a clip is broken already you can take more risk on getting it out, taking regard of the plastic panel of course, but if the clip is unbroken as in your case you can't be expected to risk breaking anything just to find out how it's fitted in, good of you to look. My thoughts were that if this retractable parcel shelf is really a retractable cover, without any additional support to the cover, and it retracts under not too much pressure then the clip fittings don't require that much reinforcement to the fixing. Why they might be so fiddly or not straight forward to hook up I don't know as I've never seen one but a bit of "design" can add to perceived value and selling price. I don't know but I was also thinking If this retractable shelf is an extra to the model often then there might be blanking plates before the clips are fitted and I'd expect them to be quick and easy to replace with clips otherwise fixing time is lost whether the installation is paid extra for not. So many different plastic fitting on cars just for hold covers and panels on let alone bag hook, nets, etc., etc . . . 🙃 Be interesting to find out now how the clips are held in and removed.

You have the car, clips and panel so would know better than I as I'm only guessing really. If you say there's a full flange rather than tangs then that's it as I can't find the clips to look at on a Google search. Someone with access to ETKA may be able to put up an image showing the clips which may or may not show detail of the clip but at least there would be a part number to do more search on,, clips just brings up panel or other clips. This is why I'd try a Dealership parts department. I got a plastic "emergency" lock cover and another time a plastic seat handle from our (very) local Dealership for a lower price and quicker than ordering elsewhere. They can show you and even print off the relevant parts diagram.

@Dieselgate what did you decide to do about servicing in the end?

If the panel is difficult to get out then perhaps going to the Skoda Dealership parts department looking at the parts drawing and see what these clips parts look like and if they secure to anything out of sight, find the cost and availability of the clips and buy as required. Or as I put I might try to carefully prise the clip part out of the panel. Looks like possible this clip might have been glued already, image not high enough resolution for my eyes to tell. Good luck.

Never fully trust parts lists from such companies, they list parts for the various specs of the model and no doubt will contain errors. I don't know if the whole Karoq range have the same dampers and/or which other Skoda (or VW other brand) models may have those dampers. If there's a 'sports' version or other variant in a model range it may have different dampers to the others perhaps. The parts companies might note this type of thing. Easiest way is to Just start a new thread on there. On changing your front dampers to B6 if you can or do, if you notice difference then it could be the B6s to factory swap, the dampers being new, the dampers being new B6s, also depends on how bad or not your present front dampers are and same for the rear dampers wear. Then there might be a difference between B6 and factory dampers on the road even if the rear dampers were also new. I don't know how noticeable the difference would be having two or four B6s fitted (against 2 or 4 new factory) unless you were pushing things, or heavily loaded as seems the B6s speciality. The B6s may well give reliable service for longer than the factory dampers based on the experience with my wife's Fabia. You perhaps also need a Karoq Edition owner that has fitted two B6s to the front and drives and loads the car in the same way as you but even then it can be subjective. Depending on its age and model of your wife's BMW M Sport it could have a very complex suspension system (as you might discover if you need to do anything on it or the wheels or tyres) you should expect more from that suspension, if you haven't already you may find you pay for that complexity sometime in the future. Passats from what the owners have told me are particularly comfortable riding cars, saloons are lower and with a reasonable length wheelbase, Passat and BMW M Sport are different kettles of fish to modern SUV (or whatever the Karoq is classed as or called). See how you get on with the Karoq forum.

Use an appropriate charger and maintainer and follow the instruction in the car's Owner's Manual (especially if you have stop/start) and the instructions for the charger maintainer. Get it on charge ASAP (after checking terminals and connections) and use as low amps charge for as long as possible to fully charge the battery (as much as possible before tomorrow's visit), quick and fast won't be as good. If the battery is at a good charge and in good condition it won't take as long to get to full and you can leave it on maintain. If battery terminal and/or main earth connections are poor and/or the battery is in a very low state of charge (and perhaps condition) and you sort these things you might not need the auto-electrician but if it's other, as well or instead of, you will anyway or a full run of diagnosis and perhaps wires and connections wiggling (and perhaps heating and cooling). Or it might be pump or its relay or something left field perhaps. Good luck, let us know how you get on and what the final resolve is.

If you still have the broken bits you could try superglueing all back together or possibly(?) it looks like to me in your image that the whole clip piece might(?) come out of the inner boot panel(?) and possibly available as a replacement part/fitting(?). But I've no idea as I've never seen one. You might be able to prise them out using a suitable plastic tool or implement or careful use of a screwdriver and cloth so as not to scratch the plastic panel pattern. Or it might be easier to remove the whole plastic panel and see wot's wot - but again I don't know. For future car stuff photos, if taken in landscape they usually offer more frame information than in portrait (depends on shot of course) - possibly two clips in frame with landscape, a broken clip and other not broken, if possible.

In case the auto-electrician has yet to turn up. Generic codes relating possibly to fuel, clicking possibly the relay. A VW specific scan tool tool may give more info and if higher level more. Don't rely on the scan tool to always give the exact answer rather as a pointer to the area of issue and (another) diagnostic tool. Always check the basics though, are you battery terminals clean and battery terminal clamps clean and secure on the battery terminals, main and minor earth connections and wires clean, protected and secure. Any electric issues (if it is) and diagnostics best to have the car battery fully charged and not low or very low in charge.

Yeap, I can imagine that, on the Bilstein UK page presently the B6 drop down selections have Superb 2015-22 (not 2023) that's why I suggested contacting Bilstein UK, I realise they may not know of other similar VW models or apply the B6 to those models, or they might already be listed to those models, I didn't look as I don't know what those models are. I've been ordering some parts for customers, businesses and myself since the mid-1970s, car parts only for myself in more recent decades, using paper catalogue and previously microfiche, some wit the exact same manufactured part for the manufacture's different brands or same part for a different manufacturer(s) and all at different retail prices. The catalogues and other databases all had errors and omissions and these errors and omissions amplified as databases were taken over and combined and things aren't perfect still just because it's more digital and computers, manufacturers websites are often with errors, omissions and out of date.

Ian, as noted it's not against any law to read and refer to the Owner's Manual as they can give you a lot of information about your car and can sometimes save you a lot of time, effort and expense. Also sometimes the Skoda Dealerships sell items and parts at a reasonable or good price so it's worth asking there, I've no idea about that item though. @NottsIan just for info, might interest you or it might not, the eBay links can be shortened to just the end of the item (itm) number, as examples from above. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/355381054670 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305364198984

As this is the 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forum that's what initially lead me to assume (always dangerous) that B6 might be some sort 'sport' (whatever that might mean) damper - I thought now I'd do a quick check on Bilstein UK website, and this is what it has. - "The BILSTEIN B6 shock absorber is the perfect solution if you require more dampening power and efficiency in your suspension setup, including under heavier loads; but don't require a full all-out sports model. BILSTEIN B6 shock absorbers are fully road-tested for road handling capability and endurance. The benefits of BILSTEIN B6 shock absorbers are: Increased power reserves and service life, even when pulling transporters and trailers or during frequent journeys with loads Optimum adhesion and enhanced lane change stability in both day to day and extreme situations Marked improvement in safety and sportiness without additional spring changes such as lowering your vehicle BILSTEIN gas pressure technology BILSTEIN mono-tube/Upside-Down technology, made in Germany Road-tested by BILSTEIN and fine-tuned No German TUV registration required" https://www.bilsteinsuspensionstore.co.uk/info-b6-suspensions @Vlady on that page the "Choose your Car" menu doesn't include Karoq, that could be for a few reasons (including their site not being up to date, errors and omissions) and whether the other models listed would fit and be suitable I've no idea, unless you've seen Bilstein B6 Karoq dampers available elsewhere (or even then) you might need to check with Bilstein. If the B6 aren't available for your Karoq that's an end to that particular path.

Do you know please how that price plus conversion and P&P works out compared to getting it from a Skoda Dealership (as I've found sometimes the Dealership prices can be good or reasonable for genuine part)?

Ian, you might get more, and more specific, replies (or find the subject already covered) in the Karoq forum, you could try a search or a post there. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/365-škoda-karoq/ HTH. Good luck.

@Carlston I totally agree with your post particular the "when fitting aftermarket shock absorbers that are similar to the factory fitted ones" and the "if the ride height hasn't changed". Same as the insurance company I've no idea what dampers are fitted to a Karoq or how similar or not B4 and B6 are to them, if they're equivalent then they can just be replaced as a repair anyway. Vlady's OP was about an upgrade to a PCP car not using OEM and if that would affect anything plus I was suggesting a change of wheel size. Perhaps the word upgrade is the problem, as relating to modification, I did try to cover this. If the B6 are similar/equivalent then there's no need to contact the insurance but I did put to check all information including from me. I've no idea what's in the PCP contract again if the B6 are similar/equivalent you'd imagine the PCP provider would be happy that newer dampers were on their vehicle if they have it back - well, in reality they'd not really know (even perhaps if told) or care at the end and it and would make no real odds to car's value to them. I wasn't against anything you put or disagreeing if the B6 dampers are similar/equivalent just that as Vlady's been reading about how much ride improvement with B6 on Superbs a bit more checking all round for their model and situation wouldn't hurt. I wasn't prepared to put do as you please as the insurance and PCP are unlikely to find out unless it's on a computer record or they have to do an inspection, if someone is concerned they need to do proper checks, anyone can, including you and I, say and advise on what usually or generally happens - again if the B6 are similar/equivalent I can't see an issue against OEM but it's not me or me with a PCP contract. In answer to Vlady's other questions do you know please - will the B6 improve the riding quality as much as it does with the Superb will they be better over small potholes and speed humps will it matter at all about leaving the rear factory dampers?

@A845-ALY did you get this sorted in the end, was it a new sensor required?

@PeterPan99 did you get it sorted, yellow catch-thing out and fluid tested and/or changed?

What did you decide in the end?