Former

Fairly recently replaced two Avon ZT7 as they were MoT (and personal) failure on the inside face, cracking following the circle of tyre just up from the wheel edge, three years old from manufacture and use on the car, 23k-miles of use on the car. BTW I know they started out at 6.5mm tread new as before I bought them I read all the whinging from those that assumed all tyres start out with 8mm tread new.

Hi, welcome, sorry you've not received a reply here but you would get plenty of help and replies posting in the 'Skoda Fabia Mk II (2007-2014)' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/113-skoda-fabia-mk-ii-2007-2014/ HTH.

You've posted in the wrong place to get many answers (this is about the site forum rather than the cars) try 'Skoda Superb Mk III (2015 - 2023)' forum as it seems lively enough in there. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/299-skoda-superb-mk-iii-2015-2023/ I can only think of the second set of keys (never think of them as the "spare" set, alternate use of both sets) or calling the breakdown services, unless any of your customers are car thieves as I'd guess they might have your car started and opened in a matter of seconds. Good luck.

Do bear in mind as all the oils will be different makes and models of the multigrades it is not a direct comparison of one multigrade scale of oil against another multigrade scale of oil and you could get different results from using different makes and models of the same multigrade scale of oil. It might be that even if a particular oil. or oils, doesn't meet your expectations of fuel consumption it may shine in other area(s) so you may want to consider overall results, particularly of engine protection, rather than just lowest fuel consumption, before making a decision of which to stay with. For engine wear as a complete engine strip down and analysis at the end of each oil use isn't going to happen analysis of the used oil is the next step, or listening and worrying about every sound from the engine. But I think you will pick good quality oils that will protect your engine in 15w-50, 10w-40s or if you try 10w-50 or 10w-60. The search goes on, you will soon have enough graphs of results for a Powerpoint presentation, or perhaps a Youtube video, too much for a Tik-Tok (not that I have ever seen a Tik-Tok or whatever others are called). Good luck. 😄

👍 @Hussar175 the phone doesn't have to be in the car just within reception so the green bar might be there when the car is parked at home but disappear if the phone is (quite rightly) left at home and you have driven away from home. There are other waning lights and messages to let you know you have let the car battery get too low, and more unexpected lights if you let the battery get far too low or low and using a lot of electric, well with a start/stop car at least.

Don't take things too literally, the racing ain't always Formula 1 stuff, I've used Mobil 1 "Motorsport" oils and Millers classic high performance (sports) engine oils, also Millers (modern) "Motorsport" oils in the gearbox and rear axle, and I have no interest in motorsport and have only a few times been round tracks and at less than 70mph, slower than when on European roads. Most classic car and classic racing car owners are as tight as a duck' s ar"se (and that is water tight) so they don't over spend on things like oils, the oils are just good and better quality oils if you need or want them with of course a steep law of diminishing returns for extra cost often (but not always if you get them when on offer or change of branding, labelling or formula). Again mileage is just a guide it is more about the wear and tear and use and abuse of the engine, the extra protection may not go amiss on a 23 year old used engine and the 60 useful perhaps for hot city and hard mountain driving. But again the 10w-60 Extended Life was just an example. If anything I would have thought the fuel consumption would possibly be slightly higher with a 15w-50 against a 5w-40 in colder weather but it also depends a bit on the two oils and I am no expert (in anything) but the engine oil isn't just about getting ultimate fuel consumption so as with everything with cars and the ancient technology of the internal combustion engine it is all about compromises to hopefully reach a reasonable overall given all factors. As with the vacuum gauge, the TC-6 is good to see when things stray from the norm but you mustn't be slavish to it. A timely and thorough oil (and filter) change can sometimes be more important than which of all the appropriate oils is used and important whichever is used. You are going to need a good spreadsheet and graphs to compare all the oils against consumptions. 🙃 Good luck.

. . . or perhaps another Felica owner steps in to put that's normal - (I thought about it but) I'm glad I didn't need to spell it out and it happened, shows the community help, and greater expertise and knowledge of the car through ownership. Just as one example - Mobil 1 Extended Life 10W-60 - "engineered for the specific demands of older vehicles" "engineered to help provide long lasting protection in higher mileage engines so you can get long life out of your vehicle" "designed to help provide the extra protection that older engines can demand. It is suitable for virtually all types of older vehicles and operating conditions" "has the following builder approvals: VW 501 01 / 505 00". - https://www.mobil.com/en-mk/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/gl-xx-mobil-1-extended-life-10w60 I was being a bit sarcastic with that, British humour, my point was that you would find the information very distracting and at times worrying. The way to use the gauges is to learn where the needle should point with your car and occasional glances to see that the needle is in the usual area and not keep a near constant attention on the gauge and not worry too much about book figures or the figures others get on their cars. A digital readout would be madness it would have your eyeballs spinning with the changes sometimes. 😄 So begins another chapter, don't just measure it on ultimate levels of fuel consumption rather all round performance and protection of your engine. Good luck with it. 👍

So a 10w-50 would be in between those for summer mountain use. I once used Mobil 1 10w-60 as I was told the 60 would drop to 50 with use, I can't remember anything about or with its use or than next annual service I used Millers for the first time, a 15w-50 Classic High Performance, which they changed to Classic High Performance 20w50 NT by the next annual service. Imagine the fun you could have watching the needle on a very cold start - how high will it go and how long will it stay there, then with hard use of the car on a hot day and car at idle - how low with it go, and how much will the needle move with use of the car at various times, could be more distracting whilst driving than a phone call or ****Nav or anything else from a "smart phone". 😄

No, well, this is a recommendation based on the Motul UK representative probably using the Motul database and for the sake of meeting VW's dictates going with their 504 00 507 00 requirements and for a UK vehicle use. Plus all previous caveats mentioned in this thread and the other(s) must also be taken into consideration. Perhaps it would be interesting to know what oil VW would recommend for your car in its location and use (if they have such records and information other than what you and others have already presented from the period publications. Perhaps the oil is too "thin" when the car is completely cold or perhaps the oil drains out of the pressure switch area, or the cold electronics are slower to react or faulty/worn/ modern not well made. You would be a nervous wreck if you ran a British made 60s/70s car with a Rover V8 engine and looking at its oil pressure gauge, or 90s car with also an oil temperature gauge and using the car in winter. You would though worry less about petrol consumption, particularly if the car is on carb(s). 😄

I got a reply from Mutol UK it states the "vehicle requests 504/507 VAG specifications, these specifications can only be achieved on a fully synthetic formulation and is requirements by the manufacturer". So just following VW’s dictates which for UK sticking to VW 504 00 507 00 would give Motul 8100 X-Clean+ 5W-30. The red light staying on for two seconds could be the oil used perhaps fulfilling Thefeliciahacker warnings, or perhaps the oil switch, see what happens immediately after the the engine starts if you blip the accelerator. From what I'm told in the 1960s and 70s the bulbs were removed from oil warning lights to stop drivers worrying about it occasionally coming on. Earlier models of the Midget used to have a light to show if the oil filter was blocked, no oil warning light though as a combined mechanical coolant temperature and oil pressure gauge was fitted. Theses gauges had number makings on originally then the markings became more general on the coolant and in the 1970s the oil pressure gauge wasn't fitted. As put previously the gauges worried, perhaps newer, drivers with their markings and what they "should" read at and for some no doubt the amount of movement of the needles with the use of the car or way it was driven, so on the more modern cars they were removed or dampened and biased to a "normal" reading to save this worry.

You can add your car details to your nameplate thingy if you want, as my example.

If you have LED day light running lights you may, or may not, need to follow the guide a member has posted but note his car is a MK3 2018 model 1.0 TSI 95 BHP (see below). Perhaps(?), I don't know though (i forgot to look) you can get at the headlight unit by removing the wheel and wheel arch plastic. Why is water getting into the headlight, is it condensation or water getting in, could you not seal where the water is getting in. The the plastic "glass" lens cover can get cracked or chipped or perhaps a split on a seam (a hole someone's put in it). Personally I'd have a good look at the "glass" cover, then with the bonnet up have a goo look at the top of the light unit, removing the shiny black metal plate above (only one bolt, hopefully nut is self held, and two torx screws that I can see - but I've never done it so don't know. If you put a new unit in it might show a different colour to the seven year old on other side and I don't know if you have to let the car's computers know but I'd guess it'd light up unless you have some extras on the lighting or it's non-standard. Perhaps if you put up a photo of the problem. I might be tempted to drill three small holes to let the water out and if necessary repair the leak and if required seal the holes. Taking plastic bits off in theory is easy but at this time of year with the weather and lack of daylight I'd put it off until spring/summer (or never).

More information may be required, what model, what year, what engine.

Hi, welcome. I would start with the figure given in the Owner's Manual for Australia, which I presume is 32psi and if I didn't find that good in use go up to the Pirelli 35psi IF the Pirelli figure relates to Australia. I know some Australians run their tyres at high and much higher pressure than over here or Europe but I don't know if that a good idea as I've never seen a photo of how they wear. You may also get more information by asking on the 'Skoda Karoq' forum as it looks pretty lively. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/364-skoda-karoq/ Or using the search facility on this site (or through Google that will probably bring you back to this site). HTH.

Good point, all databases have errors and omissions and even if suppliers or manufacturers are told about errors on their databases or websites it can take them a very long time to correct them, often not until a major change/update of catalogue or website, if they bother at all.

Plenty of my neighbours have and are in their 90s, and still at home, one had repeated cards from royalty, a couple of my very near neighbours have just left their 80s. My old next-door neighbour was still driving his car at 95 and he only learnt to drive a car at 50, motorbikes and motorbikes and sidecars before that. Mind, he wasn't the best car driver at 73 years old when we first moved in. 😃

If I was uncertain I'd check with the supplier or better still Eibach as I've known suppliers completely balls-up and deny it (and not update their website errors).

As long as you are not relying on it in a court of law to save your life. 🙂 I am not sure how much it tells you for your concerns here unless you mean the chap has the machine and measuring instruments and knows how to use them. I did note his text included comparing like for like oils. 😉 BTW Motul (UK & Ireland) sent me an email asking for car details at 17:11 today, I will give them and let you know their response.

If disconnecting the battery has caused a reset then once the computer 'learns' again it could be better idle than before. If all the electricery is discharged then it's like "turn' the cump'ta off 'n'on agen" I'd reboot computers clear across the road. 😁

Good looking apparatus but again the tests are not testing like for like oils, same make but different varieties, the colours even vary.

Auto-electrician preferably with a scan tool that covers the complex VW computer programs. It depends on when the car battery was measured at good charge but even if it's old but provided you have not used/abused it too much too often for too long an appropriate battery charger (maintainer) could give it more life and longer life. The cold weather (and hot weather) isn't ideal for the battery but -2 isn't extreme, lack of warnings doesn't necessarily mean the battery isn't low and doesn't need charging but if you have taken a reading at an appropriate time and it shows good charge fair enough. But a low battery wouldn't cause the problem you have, as you put the issue has drained the battery. If your car is start/stop unless it's passed that point a low battery gives the warning the battery is too low to operate that system, if you ignore this and continue draining the battery then all sorts of other warnings might light up but the engine still starts. Remote keyfob also isn't so good when cold or hot, it going from a warm home to outside (or inside the car) when its very cold can lower its performance and you probably notice sooner and more if you have KESSY. But again a low battery wouldn't cause the problem you have. Posting in the appropriate forum with more information about your car may bring replies with experiences and knowledge and perhaps an answer. A forum member with an appropriate scan tool may be able to give a scan report or point to an area that might be the cause. Good luck. it'd be good if you reported back the final result/solution as this might help others.

Hi welcome. Could be a few things and possibly more than one issue, have you only noticed this today or before, is it wet /damp where you are. It won't be the car battery or remote keyfob. You may need the help of someone with a VW appropriate scan tool and/or auto electrician. You would possibly get more and better answers in the forum for a Fabia Mk2 or Mk3 depending on which yours is. Skoda Fabia Mk II (2007-2014) Discussion for the Mk2 Skoda Fabia from 2007-2014. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/113-skoda-fabia-mk-ii-2007-2014/ Skoda Fabia Mk III (2014-2021) Discussion for the new Mk 3 Skoda Fabia from 2014/5-2021 - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/298-skoda-fabia-mk-iii-2014-2021/

The 5w40 vs 15w-40 diesel oil at -25c video makes a rough point but is a bit too over simplified and comparing a 5w-40 synthetic to a 15w-40 "regular" so certainly not the same model of oil even if both are the same manufacturer or blender. I have not read the 264 remarks (is that longer than the threads here 😁 ) so I make the assumptions (always foolish) that both oils are unused and new(-ish), if they are quite/very old then there is no mention of giving the cans a shake before letting the oils get that cold and/or dispensing them into the plastic bottles. There are a few other videos of comparing pour rates of named oils as comparisons. -25c would be near record lowest temperate over here though Google shows "Scotland recorded -27.2°C, the UK's coldest ever temperature, in 1895, 1982 and 1995" and locally to me "Lowest recorded in Northampton (since 1880) -18.3C on 8 February 1895" and "Lowest recorded at Pitsford Hall (since 1998) -13.0C on 11 February 2012".

Below is just one example of the wheel alignment tool I mention in my last post to save your back, plenty around to chose from. I suggest buying two of them, or even four if swapping front wheels to rear.

Yes I thought you would like the SG part but as with all it is a case of "swings and roundabouts" with a good suitable oil, what you gain on the swings you loose on the roundabouts, it is a 15w, and by the numbers a "thicker" one at that, whereas you have been using a "thinner" oil with the Shell. I am reasonably sure (never certain) that I was using a mineral 20w50 oil when the car had been sitting unused for a god number of days in winter when it was very cold most days and (minus) -10c the day I needed to start it, it started fine, about second or third turn of the motor, only one turn of the key, but it was it sluggish and made me think of forgetting the "classic" engine oils and going back to the then available "modern" Mobil 1 15w-50. I can't remember ever having the situation in the following winters but I'm not sure we had -10c when I had not used the car for a number of days. I tried to avoid using the car the few times we had standing snow only because I got fed up of being behind wider tracked RWD Mercs and BMW (non-) drivers who either got stuck or spun the rear wheels to have weaving tracks into the kerbstones. For many years now people here panic if we get lying snow and have forgotten or never knew have to drive in snow. Panic in Cumbria (north England) yesterday because it snowed (7 inches) it always snows.