Former

Sorry I've only just noticed NOT synthetic, what possessed you, mineral 15w-50 is fine but you've been using synthetics for the other multigrade scales. The 15w-50 (any good) synthetic I would have guessed would also give slightly higher fuel consumption and quieter idle but I would expect it to preform better than the 15w-50 mineral oil on cold starts and hot city and hot mountain summer drives. I would not send you to the bar to get my English ale as you would probably come back with some European lager! ☹️ 😄

If you are keeping the car for a very long time a change can be useful to empty out any debris/contamination that might be in the system but refilling should be under pressure unless you are careful, or don't care too much about the engine possibly getting hot from forcing air up to get more coolant in. You can do partial drain and refills as partial empty out and refresh. On the G12evo 5 litre containers it has - "GB Suitable as a filled-for-life filling G12evo distinguishes itself through miscibility with G13 and G12 plus plus. Provides protection against, frost overheating corrosion and scaling. It is recommended to use the product all year round. To be used as described only." Miscibility just means they mix together fine. "a filled-for-life filling" isn't quantified, who or what's life, I take it as out of VWSkoda manufacturer's extended warranty, you might take it as 10 years or whatever. Fords has filled for life gearboxes and axles(?) decades back but when I've emptied those out the fluids haven't looked in the best condition. Whilst the antifreeze part of the coolant remains useable for a good while other elements of the mixture can wear/deplete that protect against corrasion and help lubricate components, of course VW's stuff might be special and superior, I don't know. VW being VW have to have their own number for coolant, was G13 (following G12 + +) so of course their latest/current (unless they changed their minds again or "improvements") is I believe, no not G14, G12evo. On my wife's 2015 I found G13 marked on the expansion tank (after I watched a video on a MK3 Fabia about something else) so yours might have whatever G number VW thought in 2018. You can get it premixed in 5 litre containers for -25C or -35C (G 12E 040 A3 or G 12E 050 A3) I'd not lose sleep over which or both were put in, I find it a bit less expensive to buy from a SEAT Dealership. On the label of the container is also "Can be used up to five years from the production date in the closed original container. See below" and below is the production date. Perhaps the plastic container doesn't keep the coolant as well as in the car's cooling/heating systems you'd have to ask VW. If a container of oil or coolant or other mixed stuff have been standing for more than a few weeks I always give them an upside down shake before using them just incase, certainly would for a can of oil that's been sitting in a garage for who knows how long, can do no harm (I'd personally only use that oil in someone else car if they wanted or as a flushing/cleaning oil.

Not all filters have a drain back valve - but if it's a good filter and appropriate to the car it will have. That doesn't surprise me but what aspects are you unsatisfied with?

@Warrior193 you might have seen me put before but if not - I used Mobil 1 in my MGB 1.8 and 3.5 and Spridgets *and synthetics in other cars) from the 90s onwards AFAIK the engines were built in the 60s and 70s (designed in the 50s of course). When I first started using the Mobil 1 I was told it'd ruin my engines and teeth and looks, usually by those who rarely used their classics whereas mine I used for years for work, commuting, 300 and 500 mile a week commutes for many months too, not so much the V8 though 🙃, holidays, club tours and events so put thousands of annual miles on each. The engines were all fine with my use and subsequent owners - and I kept all my teeth and looks (and modesty).

Tyres throw off a lot of mess one of which is noise, all modern cars have larger and wider fashion wheels than they used to so even more mess and there are more cars on the rougher roads with more homes nearer bigger and busier roads so the authorities and tyre manufacturers had to do something about the noise at least, or at least look like they are. Personally I take the tyre labelling with a pinch of salt, things might have improved but when it first came in tyres I'd used that were good for grip were rated lower on the label than the tyres I had to swap to next that weren't as good but were rated higher on the label. I'd have no idea about noise level as the cacophony of other car noises were greater.

That doesn't matter if the Recall hasn't been done. Recall 97CU was carried out on my wife's 2015 Fabia a couple of months before the annual service in 2018 so I guess, as I can't remember, that the Dealership or VWSkoda asked my wife to take her car in for the check, I've no idea if they done anything my wife doesn't bother with such details. Consult the Kia's Owner Manual or follow what others have done. Good luck.

When I renewed my BT broadband contract with landline I had to go "Digital Voice" (new type of hub phone instead of old school phone), no choice no problem for me but it might be for those with personal health alarm systems. I had the BT Smart Hub 2 already (and BT Youview tv box which hasn't been switched on or connected for years). - https://www.bt.com/help/broadband/learn-about-broadband/different-types-of-bt-hub I didn't know what Dect was. - https://www.gigaset.com/en_en/cms/phones/dect.htm The new package included a BT Voice phone and charger base, the phone's shape and size makes it impractical to carry around like I sometimes did with my 25+ year old BT Siemens cordless phones. And I don't think the new phone would stand being dropped on the concrete path and twice left outside overnight in the rain and being left to air dry out (no rice was used) like one of my BT Siemens cordless was. I've heard on consumer programs (BBC Radio 4) for a couple of years now about problems with switch over for people without computers and broadband but landline phones only and personal health alarm systems and certainly the last one I heard a while back BT were still having problems sorting some of the issues but gawd knows what they were playing at and what level of "engineer" they were repeatedly sending out. Having the new hub (?) phone light up did show when the broadband went down, for a matter of seconds by then the hub has to go through its process, it's not very often but I've probably never noticed before getting this phone it happening. Without broadband and mains electric connection you are without the phone unless you have a mobile phone (that's in reception and battery isn't flat) and not everyone has a mobile phone, or, hard for most to believe, wants a mobile phone. To be fair, a neighbour who read it in the Daily Mail told me about this digital switch over a number of years ago, more than two years IIRC(!?). Unless things have changed since I last heard many elderly people may have lots of issues and problems with this switch over.

(ETA: Warrior193 posted whilst I was still typing so I'd put some of the same but have left it in here.) For the Kia if the bonnet is alarmed and alarm set it'd go off otherwise I've used a smart charge and my 20+ year-old Optimate charger on my neighbour's Kia (with an old small battery) every couple of months or less as the car is almost a garden ornament. Check the Kia's Owner's Manual (it's not against the law to do so as some seem to believe) for battery charging. For your Optimate perhaps it is undersize and/or not left on long enough for your battery or are you sure the power socket you plug it into is permanently live and doesn't switch off with the ignition switched off. "One thing to note about this accessory, is that you will need your 12V socket to be live, even when the vehicle is turned off. So this accessory will not work if your vehicle has ignition shut off." - https://www.ctek.com/uk/news-archive/battery-charging-without-even-needing-to-lift-the-hood Have you checked to see if your car was part of the recall (well those that VW will admit to) to do with battery or battery system? - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns Perhaps the warranty replacement battery was a cheap or inappropriate for your vehicle and it's use (or perhaps not on either). Halfords seem high priced on the less expensive batteries and reasonable on the more expensive and better batteries, I'd suggest you get the best appropriate battery you can but be aware Halfolds seem to use their own system for battery numbers (e.g. the three or four digit number) so do cross-reference any battery their database throws up. Another neighbour got a Halfords battery using their database and it had a different hold down to the car and was lower capacity at higher price than the ones from elsewhere.

@gregoir as you don't use your car in the average way you could just fully recharge the battery and extend its useful life just by using a a battery charger and maintainer. Plenty around for £25 or less (Lidl usually have them for about £15 this time of year). Jump start is for when things have gone too far whereas charger/maintainer can be for rescue before that or better still prevention. You want to recharge your before you get the start/stop not being available or at least when it first starts to become available then you'll get more years out the expensive EFB (and much more expensive AGM) battery. To recharge the battery just follow the instructions with the charger and in the Owner's Manual of the car. For slow discharge from lack of car use and short journeys, unless you're also use lots of the electrical items in and on the car during these short journeys, best is a slow recharge, so a 3-amp or 4-amp charger and maintainer is best, it will charge the battery from shorter and heavier discharge easily too but just take longer than a 6-amp (or 8 amp) charger and maintainer. My wife's car (2016 Fabia) does lots of very short journeys so I recently put the battery on charge just as a preventative measure as the time before I unexpectedly put the battery charger and maintainer on when for the first (and only time) the start/stop was unavailable from the expensive AGM battery (fitted a couple of years ago). If you can cancel the jump pack and get a battery charger and maintainer as needing to jump start the car doesn't always happen at a convenient time whereas you can do preventative chargers at convenient times. ETA: Using a battery charger and maintainer is a very easy and clean-hands job, it does the work whilst you're inside warm and dry doing anything a lot more interesting than farting about to keep the VW computer programs happy. Photo of my wife's Fabia being charged overnight when it was around freezing (above and below) this January. (Other makes, models suppliers and prices are available) - Ring RSC804 "4a Smart Battery Charger & Maintainer" (up to 90 Ah) (they do a 6 amp version too RSC 806, up to 110 Ah)) - https://www.ringautomotive.com/en/product/RSC804 £23.49 - a bit less from some other places - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334438759247

No relevance that you can see - and I am not willing to explain to you given your return to trolling. I made the mistake of giving you a reply as so much time had passed since you last pursued me but you have returned to your acerbic dismissive attitude which you have had sometimes to backtrack with others, but I know you won't for me so once again I will ignore your barbs and questions. :shakeshead: like a one legged man starting an arse-kicking competition 🤣

Take care with brakes don't overheat them new. Brakes, which includes the tyres, are the most important thing on and with a car so with this issue if you are not sure about it, the cause and the remedy, then take the car to a good garage to be sorted as you always want fully working brakes for the sake of yourself, your passengers and everyone else, cars do not matter people do. You never know when an accident might happen, my wife's had a small bump in her Fabia this morning! and I've had enough accidents to know the importance of fully working brakes (steering, suspension).

The example I used (instead of re-greasing). - Servisol Super 10 Switch Cleaning Lubricant I've no idea if that's so, or not, might even be that VW say a new bolt/screw is used each time, I just went with cleaning and thread lock. Hopefully in an accident the airbag would go off before the wheel comes off but I don't know always better to be safe than sorry or do what settles your mind.

Very wise. Unfortunately if you're one that Sod's Law likes to kick in the tender parts about cars like me then the first owner, or certain manufacturers, create or put in latent faults for the subsequent owner to discover and have the joy of the experience and expenditure. 😃 With cars and the motor trade I've had the opposite of a Midas touch, no matter how much I pay or look after them they very rarely look after me, with the exception of Japanese manufacturers but I'm sure that'd change if I bought a new (or new-ish) one now. 😄

Thanks. I'm in UK/Britain/England its Killmanau (OP) who's location is shown as Denmark. I thought, Skoda UK at least, at some point, had first brake fluid change at 3 years from new then every two years after that but as I put I could well be wrong/misremembered.

Killmanau put system has been not been opened, I just wondered if the brake fluid level had been checked at any point or if any fluid had been removed or added and as English might not be Killmanau's first language if he meant he hadn't bleed the system - better to ask than assume. You are the one that knows about mechanical matters why not add your thoughts to getting a solution or helping rather than always worrying about what I post, but if I've put something wrong here then please say so as well, if you want to or feel you must. I may be wrong but I thought first brake fluid change was at three years, or it was at some point with Skoda UK at least - but perhaps that's not the case at all, or ever, or in Denmark, I don't mind being wrong, I often am and this is the internet after all. 😄 One reason I post on unanswered threads is that by doing so others arrive, I have such magnetism. 😆

Decades of experience doesn't stop me sometimes forgetting, until I've fixed the lenses cover(s) back on the car, of course that's when I discover the new unused spare didn't work. Decades back I fitted a cheap brake light bulb my neighbour had bought (to his Mk4 Cortina) and on testing it (with lenses cover fitted of course) it worked and then it didn't, swapped it over with the bulb from the other side to discover the faulty bulb worked with a quick dab of the brake pedal but not hold the push. Discovered the filament would break away one end when it got heated but as it cooled the end would go back and touch until the next time it heated. Years later I had another bulb do the same but knew what it was then, hence I don't buy standard bulbs, which used to be fine but no longer were, cheap for a reason. I've also had an intermittent blade fuse (or fuse to holder) Sod's Law on the fuel pump supply, worst still on the way to a remote(-ish) pub and not at the pub or after. I stopped some walkers and was given a plastic pen top that got us to the pub and back home where I replaced the blade fuse with another and even without the use of the pen top never had any problems with it after. Of course no one believes it was the fuse but the car stopped twice with that fuse and never with its replacement, I initially thought I or someone else might have knocked the fuse or fuseholder as it was under the dash and the car required the driver to slide fit his legs under the dash. When someone says it won't or can't be that I've learnt to check just in case particularly if I thought so and didn't check. Sod's Law of course if you can check something from two ends and not the middle it'll always be at or nearer the other end that you start from. 😄 Very wise. 👍

I'm not mechanical so only non-mechanic driver thoughts from me. Winding the calipers back and new (not worn) pads and discs would normally raise the level of brake fluid, did you check the level of brake fluid before, during and after removing and replacing the discs and pads? If the car is 3 years old a change of brake fluid would be good and with that you could bleed the brakes too. You don't want the AABS block missed out really nor any air in it so a VW appropriate scan tool to do the process of bleeding the brakes can also be useful too (not that many including garages might bother with such. Otherwise new pads and discs particularly if different make or type from previous can feel different on the pedal (but not squishy like air) or a coincidence and something to do with brake servo and it feel (again unlikely by your description but English might not be your first language).

Well done. 👍 And thanks for reporting back. These jobs aren't difficult but often PITA (or back) more awkward than you'd expect. Yeap that happened to me when I put a bar through the tool. 😄 Another good idea to walk away and have a mug of tea and return later. Or a mate (or wife) turns up and puts it back in easily and instantly. I cleaned and the covers and wheel arch liner area before removal and for refitting cleaned and spray lubricated the edges of the wheel arch liner opening and the cover and just lined the cover up and thumped into place with my fist, despite the spray lubricant the covers were just as difficult to remove the next time they needed to come off. Forgot to put do test the bulbs before fitting, I've had new bulbs straight out of the packet not work and one that was in the spare kit for 7 years and then when needed didn't work (might have been vibrations from being in boot or just stored shed stock, I forget. None were headlight bulbs but 21w and 21w/5w, I always go for "heavy-duty" or "X2 Life" (or "X3 Life" if I have time to order them. Having found the DRL such a PITA to do I'd dread the headlights if my wife isn't around (and she normally disappears at such times as she doesn't like to here swearing). Do think about your car battery, as a preventative measure I used the charger/maintainer only the other week on my wife's Fabia as the car does lots of very short journeys, Sod's Law it didn't really need it, only took a hour or so to 'FUL' but it's the type of car work I don't mind, fit the charger and go back in and do more interesting and rewarding stuff in the warm and dry.

I agree if you can do it. I have small hands but I still had to ask my wife to put the incandescent DRL bulbs back in as it was boiling my blood trying to do it (the DRL bulb blowing again and the amber-light-of-doom warning light being tardy in it's operation had already p*ssed me off enough). Last millennium my wife had a little Fiat (when little cars were very little and not the huge oversized, overweight as they are now) and even though I could get my small hand in the gap to get at the back of the light I just couldn't get my wrist in a position to remove the dud bulb so I had to send my wife down to the usually very unreliable Fiat dealership and pay them to replace a bulb (the shame of it for a man of my age at that time). My wife said the mechanic had big hands but done the job very quickly and very easily with no tools or other work and the Dealership didn't even charge for the work and done it just straight away where the car was parked up. 😄

Using the video posted earlier in this thread I done the 'full' job and as a non-mechanical person put up a sort of guide and tips from my experience of doing so on my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 SE hatch. -

If you are doing the job yourself disconnecting the battery and removing it isn't a big job and more likely to do good than bad. Read your Owner's Manual and check what will need resetting after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. On my wife's Fabia Mk3 (Hatch) 1.2 TSI (90 SE 5-speed manual) only one item needed resetting, I forget which but it wasn't the radio as in the Owner's Manual. (ETA: just remembered, it was the time clock.) Before disconnecting the battery check (electric) windows are fully closed, everything electrical is off (which is good practice every time before you turn the engine off, excluding safety items) and before reconnecting the battery check again, as much as possible, all electrics items are off. There will still be some electric going through anyway from the complex VW computer programs when you disconnect and reconnect and if you left some electric item on it'd probably not be the end of the world but best to have at the minimum you can. When you reconnect the battery clamps to the battery posts make sure the inside of the clamps and the battery posts are clean and then connected tightly (can't be moved not murder tight). Read the Owner's Manual, disconnecting and reconnecting the car battery isn't a big thing, on these cars at least. If you want a belt and braces, after reconnecting the battery start the car turn the lights and air-con and blower on and turn the steering wheel full lock in each direction. Or don't bother just check the new bulb works and just start the car and and drive it when and as you normally would, during the driving the computers will sort themselves if required. Getting the (incandescent) daylight driving lights replaced is more awkward than disconnecting and reconnecting the car battery. Good time to also think about the state of charge of the car battery and if required using an appropriate battery charger maintainer or appropriate driving, see the Owner's Manual about charging the battery too. Good luck.

You'd want the key in the ignition to (?) turn the alarm off.

Correction, second key not "spare". 😉 😁

If the other scanner is a good one and VW (complicated programs) compliant then I'd strongly suggest you check and if required fully recharge the car battery fully with an appropriate charger/maintainer (as low and slow as possible) but then I would recommend battery charging without any error codes. Many owners are very surprised to learn how many issues the car can throw up even before giving any warning lights or messages let alone noticing on the car starter motor sound. Even if it's not the battery state of charge a fully charge battery will help with diagnostics, and low charged battery perhaps hinder, particularly with electrical and starter issues, the car's computers run on 5v electricity already so you don't want to thin that too much more. Never forget the basics, scan tools and such like may seem sexy and higher tech but you still need to check the starter basics and basics as you go along with physical or electronic diagnostics. Scan tools don't tell you everything or always the whole story, they're one diagnostic tool among others (often a very good tool but sometimes misleading particularly if you don't cross check and correctly apply the information they might give). Good luck.

Hi, welcome. If your your cruise control is fully working it might be an error with the obdeleven perhaps I don't know, you could try checking with obdeleven site or forum (if they have them) or using a different make of scan tool to confirm the error code. Have you let the car battery get low recently or changed battery. I always think of errors in any computer programing (car and scan tool manufacturers included). I'd not rush to book it into a workshop perhaps it might not even be there next time you plug in the obdeleven (but I do not know this). You might get more help by posting on the (much more lively) 'Skoda Superb Mk III (2015 - 2023)' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/299-skoda-superb-mk-iii-2015-2023/ HTH.