Former

My mistake, it was the other chap who had his dad's old car then. And in the case of this particular oil it says "Universal bi-synthetic (PAO + esters)" Your engine may be 23 years old but the design I would guess basically goes back a lot further so that's why I put to check with Mannol. Did/does VW Skoda even specify 5w-40 oil. You could try a better quality 5w-40 or better a quality 10w-40 or perhaps a better quality 15w-50 for the hot traffic in hot weather and as it does not get that cold where you are (or better quality 5w-40, 5w-50, 10w-50) or accept what you use is as good as it gets for you, as always you will decide. Good luck, I am sure you will research until you eventually find what you want and suits. 👍

Not all 10w-40 oils are equal, not all 5w-40 oils are equal, not all 0w-40 oils are equal. Synthetic is often more of a marketing term that true description. But 5w and 0w take more to achieve than 10w so using a good quality 0w-40 suitable to your car (or your believes) might help more with cold running and cold starting and the 40 side of such an oil should deal better with the hot running and hot weather conditions better too as generally 0w-40 oils would generally be made better. If I remember correctly Mannol is a favourite of yours - MANNOL Legend + Ester 0W-40 - "Designed for gasoline and diesel engines (with and without turbocharging) a wide fleet of cars (cars, light SUVs, minibuses and light trucks of European and other manufacturers), where the performance level of API SN / CH-4 and lower, as well as ACEA A3/B4." - https://www.mannol.de/products/motor-oils-for-cars-and-transporters/synthetic-engine-oils/mannol-legend-ester-0w-40 Cheap prices too, but obviously you would want to check with Mannol that the oil is fully suitable for your car as you need to at least double check anything you see on the internet/forums.

That's why I use old kitchen spatulas that are plastic as they wont mark and have some flexibility yet hopefully are robust enough for most stuff. EnterName's kit looks good for the price.

You could check there's not a leaf/twig/branch or muck/grit/****/dust at the sensor or plastic shield in front of it at the rad grille, how dirty (or not) is, or was, your front number plate? If the problem hasn't returned then it might just have been a trapped leaf or summat.

Different car and part but the video gives the approach I'd take, his channel also has loads of other useful vids and some on Mk3 Fabia. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YgwpKi9zg8k ETA: I've no idea where you'd want to start prying but I'd just use a plastic tool or tools (old kitchen food spatulas in my case) and experiment around the fitting to see where it grips and doesn't. Good luck let us know how you get on.

I got the following photo off of here or web, forget which. - I got a couple of the following rubber pucks for my jacks (other, and better are available) they smell a bit but come in resealable bags, they seem to work well enough on my wife's 2015 Fabia and my neighbour's car. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404331002770 With the Fabia I'd strongly recommend using (two) (M14 x 1.5) Alloy wheel Alignment fitting tool(s) as VW use wheel bolts instead of wheel studs so the wheel can slip off during fitting (or removal) which might cause back pain (guess how I know). Other and better tools are available but I bought one similar to the following, to go with the one a friend bought me as a gift. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171578652638 I put a thread up of my tips from when I changed the front pads & discs on my wife's 2015 Mk3 1.2 (90) SE, I've no idea if yours use the same fittings but it might help with generalisations. as I put in another thread replacing the discs & pads is a very dirty but uncomplicated job but being brakes needs to be done thoroughly and properly, don't worry about any macho boasting of how quick it can be done rather allow multiples of time to do the job thoroughly and well, plus Sod's Law you'll find other stuff that you should do whilst you're there. Hope some of this helps and applies to your model.

Just recently I fitted rear brake pads and discs to my wife's 2015 1.2 90, (185/60 r15) car at 57k-miles the discs were called 230mm. I used the Pagid brand (name?) for both pads and discs as that's what I put on the front a few years ago and they seemed OK in use. "Pagid is an OE brand of TMD Friction, and part of the Nisshinbo Group – the world’s biggest manufacturer of brake friction, and a truly global partner for the automotive industry." - https://pagid.com/about-us/ For front brakes I put up a thread in the Guides section (but forgot to put it was for a 2015 Mk3 1.2 TSI SE car) - For the rear ("230 mm") brakes of my wife's 2015 Mk3 1.2 TSI SE I needed 13 & 15 mm spanners, Torx T30 driver and borrowed a mate's rewind tool with suitable end plate, There was not a need to remove the caliper carrier cradle to get the old discs off and new ones on, a H7 hex would have been required if I had needed or wanted to. The disc are held by one T30 headed short screw, on the back one of these screws had already fell out but the other side was in so tight I wished I had loosened them before removing the caliper and pads so my tip would be to loosen these off whilst you can still apply the handbrake or other easy bracing. I also personally recommend using (two) screw-in wheel hanger fitting/removal alignment guide pins when removing and refitting each road wheel. Normally only one is used but two is better. One or two of these could help prevent getting a back pain from the silly VW wheel bolts instead of fixed wheel studs (guess how I know this). Rear Pagid pads included new (thread-lock applied) screws. Replacing the discs & pads is a very dirty but uncomplicated job but being brakes needs to be done thoroughly and properly, don't worry about any macho boasting of how quick it can be done rather allow multiples of time to do the job thoroughly and well, plus Sod's Law you'll find other stuff that you should do whilst you're there. Hope some of this helps and applies to your model.

There's an intermittent problem with the 'Media' when using a memorystick (for music) in the USB slot (in front of the gearstick) sometimes it doesn't resume where it was left off from playing on the previous occasion. With advice from varooom I was able to check the fault wasn't with the memorystick, it appeared to report everything was fine. I have done the pressing and holding the 'MENU' button to get the hidden/service/engineer menu(s) and information to display hoping this will help those that may be able to tell me how to resolve the issue. I'm not bothered about updates unless needed to clear this issue (and wondered if perhaps the previous update might cause the issue?). I assume (always dangerous) I that need to load or reload a program or update but I don't know what or how it's done (extract, overwrite/update) I assume a program put on to a USB stick and then using the service menu(?) to get it inside the machine. Help and advice appreciated as resolving this issue would be good but me messing up and loosing the facility of music from a memorystick for my wife to listen to in her car would not be good. Thanks.

Cigar to toot, I was thinking you'd probably have disc rear brakes. 😄 Well the concrete floors on my sheds always seem very cold in winter. In your photo even though the sun is out your drive and car seem to be mostly in the shade so not drying as quickly as perhaps some of the other drives in your street, lots of variables though. You probably need to find other 2018 Fabia owners to see how their brakes perform as the brakes used in production could vary by supplier and/or quality or finish over any production period, not that it really matters as you have what you have. Driving every other day should help to keep things moving more freely, my wife's car is generally used everyday and has rear discs and I changed the front discs and pads due to wear, I can't say I was impressed with the wear over such mileage it had but the car was bought s/h with 10k-miles on it with totally unknown history as it was a Dealership car so who knows what they did or didn't do with it. If you have a good indy guy he'll be able to tell you and advise you about this matter, if he's good look after him they are so few now and getting rarer. Be good if you can report back as it all adds to the knowledge bank for others. My neighbour's car has just had to have two new front brake calipers due to rusty brakes as it rarely moves off the (old block paving) 'drive' but it is nearly 18 years old with only 28k-miles on it, as I've know the car from new I know it still has better brakes than my wife's 2015 VWSkoda Fabia has or had and it's "only a cheap Korean car".

As you often do you have totally twisted what I put and seem unable to understand any subtlety. I think you deliberately just want to jump in and belittle me - please stop it. You cannot know what drainage arrangement Tdawber's printed concrete driveway has unless you've seen it so cannot with your absolute certainty know that the "car is now sitting on pooling water".

Presumably you have(?) the mechanical type of handbrake, push a button and pull up and not the electronic type? 32k-miles isn't a big mileage for a 2018 car so does this mean your car is parked on the printed concrete driveway a lot and always in the same place and position and facing the same way as this might encourage more localised rust formation on the car affect the brakes (perhaps one side more than the other). I don't know if printed concrete holds more water on its surface because it has some sort of sealant covering it and what if any additional affect that'd make. Having lived in the same property for 41 years I think more recent winters have been generally more mild and more condensation around, last few years particularly I've seen more green moss(? I'm no gardener) on my plain concrete paths and different colours than I can ever remember seeing in the past and I live at the top of a hill where it can get quite blowy (I'm not a meteorologist either) at times. If you can just lie on your printed concrete driveway and have a look at the brakes from the centre of your car and see if there's rust or other - or wait until its in the air on a lift in the garage and look at it then or just leave it to the garage. Hopefully as you have low mileage you've based the car's servicing on time rather than distance, the brake fluid should have already been changed and due a change again or at least tested, brakes are the most important system on the car. For the far less important engine servicing that most owners worry more about toot and I also think the air filter should be changed or at least checked more frequently than VWSkoda servicing suggests. Let us know how you get on.

Probably your phone and/or the programs on it as the photos show clearly on my old PC, try using a different device.

In which case RM3's friend's charger will only be on for a number of second's and RM3 has the reassurance of knowing the battery is fully charged and the road trip to the beach yesterday with air con going, and any driving and battery use since, was sufficient to fully charge the battery and RAC man and I were perhaps talking out of our rear orifices on this occasion. Of the 0.01% of the planet's vehicles some feature in the AA UK statistics and I agree for the vast majority of those it wouldn't have been the battery was actually at fault or faulty, AA top 10 breakdown causes. - https://www.theaa.com/breakdown-cover/advice/top-ten-breakdown-causes

It won't hurt to use a battery charger and could possibly be a real benefit, just follow the instructions in the 'Owner's Manual' which also has "A charging current of 0.1 of the total battery capacity (or lower) is that which should be used until full charging is achieved.". That's just, for example, if the battery is 60Ah (the number will be on the battery) the charger wants to be, or have a setting of, 6 amps or less. Personally I prefer 2 amps to 4, and 4 amps to 6 but the lower the more time and patience is need to fully recharge the battery. Some charger automatically switch themselves to a maintenance setting once the battery is fully charged meaning even less to do of an already very little anyway.

Thanks, pity I couldn't spell 'ease'. 😄 I'm with a blast up the M4 being (a bit) more fun than 10 minutes in Cardiff city centre on a Friday afternoon tho' I prefer the narrow twisty roads of north Wales. My personal experience with friends and neighbour's car batteries is that sometimes just driving the car isn't sufficient to recover the battery enough, partial recharges (with battery charger or alternator) keeps the battery at a lower level of charge so so increasing the likelihood of a battery 'fail' when really it's a fail of the owner/driver really. It depends how low the battery was taken and its condition as to how well it recovers. I've recovered car batteries that were well "dead" and they've gone on to give useful life after. A car battery in a Mk1 Fabia, depending on its use, should have a very long life but if seriously depleted at any stage for any reason may need help to fully recover (as much as possible) I personally have always found with a battery charger a lower longer recharge to be better and more successful longer term than a high fast charge with. As I put before IIRC in 46 years I've only once had to use a battery charger on a car that I've owned because the battery went flat and that was totally my fault. With my wife's VWSkoda Fabia MK3 with stop/start I invested (£23 but you can get £15 ones) in a battery charger conditioner as it's a different kettle of fish, VW and start/stop, modern car with complex German programing and lots of modern "necessities" and I use it when required and as a preventative as my wife has a low tolerance of faults in her cars, the use of the battery charger and maintainer is very easy and requires very, very little effort but does require two things that may be out of stock for many, time and patience.

As my wife owns a 2015 (Fabia) VWSkoda for your sister I'd be looking at older smaller cars, preferably from Toyota or Honda. Whether a Citygo is suitable for your sister over a Fabia depends on her expectations in a car.

Up to you who you believe, I often put on here as the RAC man has advised. If you are going with the drive then assuming your alternator is fully functioning and your battery is otherwise in a good state of health and good state of charge then generally the less electric you use whilst driving possibly the better until the battery is fully recovered. Too hot for such for me. Without a full in depth charge you may find it more likely (or you may not) come this autumn or winter (or perhaps sooner if we have record or near record temperatures ) that you might or need (or you might not) want to charge or change your battery depending on it's present state and what you do in the meantime. Premature or distressed battery sales are very common. Bear in mind the RAC has seen your battery I haven't or any other poster here. If I was in Cardiff I'd help you out with great easy and very little effort and show you how you can do the same and prevent or make low battery less likely in future with great easy and very little effort - but I'm not so can only offer my best wishes.

I might be wrong as my memory's not the best and I have enough potential (and past) VW woes with my wife's car not to follow the various ones on VW auto boxes as my wife's car is a 5-speed manual, thank gawd, but I might have seen someone made up their own kit, or it might have been for a different issue or I'm on Fantasy Island again. If you could do a temporary repair or bridge it out or whatever so that the computer programs are happy in case it has some knock effect and I'd always clear any codes before trying to start the car again just in case as with somethings and/or scanner perhaps the VW programs seem to take some convincing that things are sorted, first few tries might not stick, though I'm sure others might disagree with me on this. 😄 ETA: I see toot has bumped the P (you off) position for the Fabia autobox thread.

I wasn't thinking of you doing the work but the photos show the drain holes to the sides but not middle section IIRC. Well if you're sorted now that was easy. 😄 Drove my wife's Mk3 today and this afternoon after start up it got the rough idle from the computer warming the sensor, only put the other day on here it's rough but not misfire rough so Sod's Law this afternoon it was so rough you would perhaps consider it some sort of misfire perhaps but if you wait it settles and then seems a very smooth idle because of what was just experienced. Imagine telling a perspective buyer "oh, that's nothing wrong, it's supposed to do that.". 😄

As long as the Snap-On covers Fabia Mk3 specifically rather than just generically and is up to date it should give good error codes and diagnostics for your car I guess (don't know). The battery won't be causing your current issue just to check it doesn't cause any in future, for 'coding' the battery the type, Ah and serial number change (by one digit is fine) are the important elements, see here for more info. - VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf Sorry I can't remember the details of position P but @toot will know, might have been a Recall or fix kit, I forget. Have you done a multimeter or scanner diagnostics from battery through to starter motor connections but then there's loads of stuff that could potentially be in the physical systems and VW's complex computer programs that could prevent engine fire-up, even if you only have the one error code a full scanner read out report can be useful but you probably already have the two points to start from. Have you checked if there are any admitted Recalls for your car or more secret technical bulletins (TPIs? I forget the jargon/name), admitted Recalls from here. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns

Hi, welcome. Lots of info on here about that but @toot will be along to give you more details and links. Is your scanner specific to VW for diagnosis and did you 'code' the new battery (if not almost exact like-for-like change).

This recent thread should answer your question, follow to the end for photos of Mk2.-

From VWSkoda free pdf download copy of 'Owner's Manual' . - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Yes some you seem to need to stand on your head to get at them, my neighbour's (non-VW) was easy enough to get at as it was just behind the glovebox drawer which came out easily, getting the glovebox back in was one of those hit and miss things where some would have it done in a couple of seconds but on the wrong day a bit of fiddling around and a couple of attempts and the wonder why it didn't just drop in. Still doesn't answer your question but just for future reference, according to Mann filters yours looks easy access for the able-bodied and younger owner than you or I.

Sorry don't know about the drainage but posting about air-con servicing earlier makes me think to suggest to check your cabin filter also in case that's wet or damp too (can't remember the Billy Connelly story either).