Former

Withdrawn given previous posts I've just seen (missed before).

My wife's car gets the increased idle at times and it isn't smooth then but not like misfires, this is one of the times I class as the computer doing its thing (or interfering at other times) there seems to be a variety of engine bay noises at a variety of times.

Do check with the manufacturer as in the Amazon list it has a tick against "ACSM/airbag" in the ECU reset so I might be wrong and even manufacturer's websites have errors and omissions and missing updates. I don't know if Ancel has a user's forum but if it does you might get the info from there too.

Not usually in my experience of my wife's 2015 1.2 TSI but it does depend on what the car's computer programs are up to, different engine bay noises at different times. Last two fuller tank fill ups have been with Tesco Momentum 99 and the the car seems smooth to my wife and I when driving it but we might be fooling ourselves and on Fantasy Island. Last top was with Esso 99 ethanol free (labelled E5) to get some for my neighbour's petrol lawn mower to save me cleaning the carb again after winter. BUT - my wife's car isn't remapped Stage 1.

Well I was tempted to put about plastic and extreme heat but I'm sure loyal owners or VW / Skoda fans would say what great quality the plastic is. If it's the swivel bit that's not freely moving then I'd give it a careful spray using the straw behind the cup part with GT85 (forget WD-40 Multi-Use). I use GT85 on cars and homes as a penetrating/releasing lubricant and longer lasting lubricant with PTFE and nice smell, I used to use it on my pushbikes in the 80s when it was a British company, sadly now part of the American Corp, WD-40 Company.

Short answer - (my opinion and experience only) full air-con service, maybe, or too soon or too frequently. Longer answer - it used to be in at 4-years/40k-miles, my wife's Fabia was done at 5 years and 41k-miles, whether it was worth doing I don't know. You can change (and upgrade) the cabin filter yourself if you want and spray in antibacterial there and other places. I changed the cabin filter on my neighbour's car (that hardly ever leaves the hardstanding) as the cabin smelt musty and it was very dirty and damp, I gave that area a quick wipe clean with whatever was under the kitchen sink or in the bathroom (forget what) and the smell went away, the few times I've test run the air-con since there's no smell. AFAIK the air-con on the car hasn't been touched but it's a very low mileage Korean car from 2005 not a over-complex VW and from 2020. I'm all for regular servicing and maintenance of the whole car (which often boils down to clean and lubricate) but other than changing the cabin filter and perhaps cleaning I'm not sure the air-con service needs doing too regularly or wait until it something plays up but Sod's Law and how you feel about leaving it can come into play.

You could also try pulling the seatbelt out to its full extent and check the webbing has any muck, pet hairs or such on it, "hoover" and careful cleaning if so, any fraying may also hinder movement. If the seatbelt pulls through a slot in plastic covers then check the aperture is also clean and clear and that the pivot bit moves freely.

Does Ancel VD700 reset the code? - At £140 I doubt it, but rather than using an Amazon link have a look at the manufacturer's specification, unless I've missed it it doesn't show and I don't know if it could be added at extra cost. £140 may sound like a lot but it really isn't for a scan tool, it would be for just a code reader, but I'm not saying this isn't a good scan tool for the cost, I've no idea, depends on how good its programing is (do keep it updated as it's free for "lifetime". In case the people or person you want doesn't see your post here's a map of those who might be able to help you. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me)

Yes sorry I was confused and thought you had just missed putting the decimal point - but you had forgotten to mention that you were on LPG. And other things, for that, with petrol, I would look at live data of fuel trim, short and long and record, from the dispensing fuel pump, the actual amount of petrol added back from a full car tank (first end click of dispensing fuel pump) to full car tank (first click) again and the mileage covered to calculate the overall miles per gallon (l/100km) as a check or conformation of any computer figures I got from any machine. The cause of any consumption may not always be rectified with a VCDS but you can get a lot of information from them to interpret. I have never used LPG or VCDS so can be of very little (or none) help with those. Your initial post and site nameplate gives very little information, if you had just been given the answer to only which boxes to look at on the VCDS would you have started with checking the spark plugs or toot's good advice in the last post. This is not Twitter or Facebook or other sites where a very quick but complicated question with very little information will begiven a very very quick answer that's wrong. You asked how to diagnose the problem, if you only want to do that using VCDS then Ross-Tech have a forum. -https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php but you are very welcome here, I will butt out and leave you with toot and others.

That seems a shame and a bit wasteful as it's on the shelves of places like Halfords so some people must still use it, as said better offered to those with "classic" and "vintage" engine cars especially the very agricultural British made engines by British engineering as it does no harm to them. Perhaps a charity shop could sell it.(?)

I can't remember anything about LPG as it was so long ago that it had a very slight interest from car drivers over here but toot and I are big fans of air filters and housing being clean, at 180, 000 miles it should be on its third or fourth air filter at least - but that's just engine stuff, the rest of the car is 180,000 miles (290,000 km) too. When did this 0-62 mph test become a thing with secondhand cars, a sports or speed modified version perhaps but for others(?), can you pull off in 2nd to save a second (if not the clutch).

LPG plugs for LPG only then(?).

@toot whilst it's just the two of us here - would this petrol/lpg Fabia Mk3 have different to factory plugs fitted?

A number of years back a mate had a petrol V8 engine from them and wasn't over impressed with the product or them, might just have been a one-off or they just didn't get on but I know from bitter personal experience (not of them) more than once that a good reputation takes longer to lose than a bad reputation.

I just missed this with my last post - you are now getting a better idea. Your @toot should allow you a drop menu with @toot on it. As you have only had had the car 2 months do you actually know if the car had 10,000 km oil (and filter?) changes, that is 29(!) changes, do you have proof, not that it matters now unless that was part of your purchasing contract. Plugs I leave with toot.

Sorry my mistake, as you called it a Fabia 3, and not Mk3, and without a year of production I wrongly thought you had a Fabia 3 (trim) Mk2. Back to your concern, your car has 290,00 km (180,000 miles) in 5-6 years, not factory standard, you have only owned the car two months, you are told the oil was changed every 10,000 km and spark plugs last year, you are doing "full throttle at low gears" and worried about higher fuel consumption with no engine error codes showing. There is more to the car's fuel consumption and acceleration than just the engine or lack of engine error codes. You need to look at and record live data to see how the engine and rest of car is performing - but you have a non-standard car with 180,000 km on it so do not expect it to preform as a newer car being thrashed. One element of 0-100 times is the driver and how much he is prepared to thrash the car to get the lowest time. Accelerating hard and expecting good fuel economy makes me wonder again about whether this is just a joke or just a misunderstanding as English is not your first language. You can not get the best out of any computer programing unless the (whole) car is in a good or at least reasonable service and use condition, the VCDS and car's computer programs can not defy mechanics and physics but by all means if you want to ask on the VCDS section I mentioned earlier.

Hi welcome. What is the service, maintenance history of the car, is factory standard or messed about with by previous owners, what year. Often a proper service (not just engine oil & filter change) but for the whole car can transform how well a car goes. This makes me wonder if your post is just trolling but assuming it is not then this post would be better in the Fabia Mk 2 section (the 3 model number does make things confusing) and if you want specific VCDS info there is also the Diagnostics & VCDS section but some in the Fabia Mk2 will also know. The 'Owner's Manual' is full of useful information to an owner or driver, if you do not have the paper printed copy you can downloads a free pdf version from VWSkoda here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models I will ask if this thread can be moved to the Fabia Mk2 section. Good luck.

You do need an updated a VW specific scan tool to get more than the generic info and then some scan tool programs are better than others with their programs, a second different scan record can sometimes be useful. Also a more specific scan tool can sometimes offer more diagnostics and tracking down issues more sometimes Here's a list of VCDS owners that might be able to help if you need it. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) If the car is not as factory standard or previous owners have added things or changed/replace items, particularly involving any electrics then strange work can give strange results. Always worth checking and rechecking the basics though. Good luck.

No, I've been putting such for many years and if you check you'll see I've put RTfM before and others didn't like it, you're not the only one I have to try and please. Just putting RtFM could on occasion be rude as a reply plus some may not know what RTM or RTfM means. Whilst you may frequently see text repeated to the various posters it'll be a first time, and if not a reminder. Many confuse owner's manuals with workshop manuals and/or have no or little idea of the scope of very useful information in the owner's manual and even those that think they know sometimes need to check the book as various models and years have little variations of VW's added complexities to what used to be very simple and obvious little jobs. Even my longest posts take a fraction of a second to scroll past, this site isn't restricted to FB or Twitter type very restricted posts.

Have you checked your air filter and housing are clean and clear, any air pipes/hoses cracked/loose/disconnected, condition of spark plugs, what's the service and maintenance history. If you have a generic code reader the code might be a red herring. Checked electric connections for battery supply and to sensors. That's me out of quick ideas.

What error codes have been found? Intermittent like this would make me think of electrical (computer system side perhaps) when you were doing your multimeter checks did you wiggle connections, is there a pattern to when the issue is worse (hot, wet, parked up or not, etc.). Have you disconnected and check the electrical connections were/are all clean, secure and protected, followed wires back and checked for splits, unsecured, etc.. Have you looked at the strip fuses on the battery with a good light and magnifying glass to checked they're not cracked, that seems fairly common from what I've seen here. Have you checked other stuff in the engine bay, what has been checked done already, more info might be helpful. Hopefully now I've posted others will be along with more idea and ideas.

All the more reason to follow my previous post advice, last thing you want when you return is not to be able to get into your own car or have hassles to do so. Alternatively there will be threads on this site about leaving a car parked for many weeks and what is required with disconnecting and reconnecting the battery (no 'coding' required) but the relevant 'Owner's Manual' to your car (model, year or better still VIN) will be much more specific, unless the car has been change from factory standard. Despite what many big-boys might say it's not weak to read instructions before doing stuff but weak not to.

Just follow any instructions in the 'Owner's Manual' about disconnecting the battery and what might be required when reconnected (not all or just one thing they list might need attention). Bear in mind how you are going to get back into the car to reconnect the battery, again follow what's in the 'Owner's Manual'. If you don't have the paper printed copy you can get a free VWSkoda pdf download copy from the following link, if you read the Owner's Manual' and refer to it (even for what should be simple jobs until made more complex) then you will know more about your car than many long term owners or some at Dealerships and garages. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models The battery only needs 'coding' when renewed and possibly not even then if changed almost exactly like-for-like, the first page of the following will explain. - VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf You'd probably get more and faster replies by posting in the Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020) section of the site. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-2020/ Good luck.

I wasn't disagreeing just suggesting not to discount the possibility of faulty amplifier. I doubt it but again I'd not entirely rule it out, I'm always weary of updates as so many with MS at least seem to fix one thing and bugger up another that then needs another update that does the same and so it goes on, if the first program lasted 7 years and is easy to get hold of and reinstall I would try as I like things that are quick, easy and very inexpensive repairs. Always best to start at the begin and basics on repairs as you know you can't often successfully move on until the very basics have been double (or treble) checked. A couple of times a mate's company that I worked for wanted to take on trainees that had been on electrics courses and the mate would give them a faulty piece of equipment to check and I suggested instead giving them a fully working piece and just remove the fuse from the power plug, both young applicants instantly had the cases off without asking any questions eager to put their electronic learnings to use, after a few minutes he explained. I got caught out when on site and was told by my mate all the power sockets in the room I was in were live and started to check why the equipment I'd pugged in wasn't working to then be told that the double socket I was using was the only one not live for a reason I forget now, he'd made a mistake but of course it was my fault for taking his word for it without checking. I've been told and seen others told "it won't be that" for it turn out to be 'that' - and of course Sod's Law if you start the checks and diagnostics at one end the fault will be at the other end.

I think I've read before that there's a DAB aerial amplifier in the car so it might be worth checking that. Cars built during Covid and the ongoing chip shortages seem to possibly have lower quality "radios". IIRV ( which is always suspect) they might have been lower before that in the Fabia judging by posts (IIRC) and difficult to tell unless comparing like for like. My wife's car is an early 2015 build and the DAB reception was fine yesterday on two different stations.