Former

Sorry I was not clear I meant look at the links I put up, that is these links. - https://www.oleje.cz/poradna/mazivarske-myty-mytus-prvni-kdo-a-jak-vyrabi-zakladove-oleje https://www.oleje.cz/poradna/mazivarske-myty-mytus-druhy-kvalita-zakladovych-mazacich-oleju https://www.oleje.cz/poradna/mazivarske-myty-mytus-treti-mineral-polosyntetika-syntetika Don't get too carried away with numbers, and what ever numbers you see you need to consider how long these numbers might remain when the oil is in active arduous use over a period of time in the engine. If you want to carry on with the numbers games, after reading the articles above then perhaps have a look at the following link and/or any articles you find yourself, for information the internet world is your oyster. 😄 - https://www.q8oils.com/energy/viscosity-index/

Thoughts. Nothing wrong with steels wheels, if the steel wheels and tyres are smaller than the alloy with tyres the steel combo might even weight about the same or less than the alloy combo. Value tends to be about cosmetics and often fashion, the absolutely unmarked original OEM alloys would probably sell for more than the steels. Steel you can paint and hit with a hammer alloys are more about nail brush application and caressing. 😁

You would have to ask the particular oil companies, possibly there is also a wider range of 5w-40 oils now as consumers simply must have more and more choice of consumables. I didn't know of Eneos until now let alone 1998! 😄 If you have not already done so read the articles from a link put up in that Cz Skoda Felicia forum thread but bear in mind the articles are simplified (and to my mind generalised), they are from 2004 publication, pity part four isn't linked. - https://www.oleje.cz/poradna/mazivarske-myty-mytus-prvni-kdo-a-jak-vyrabi-zakladove-oleje https://www.oleje.cz/poradna/mazivarske-myty-mytus-druhy-kvalita-zakladovych-mazacich-oleju https://www.oleje.cz/poradna/mazivarske-myty-mytus-treti-mineral-polosyntetika-syntetika

Thanks. Taking the door card off should be easy but it's something I'd avoid if possible, 8 year old plastic bits on my wife's car I try to leave well alone. In my post I didn't have the hyperlink right (now amended) so here it is just in case. - https://gt85.co.uk/

Hi, welcome. Possibly lack of use and build up of crud of some sort or a slip in the mechanism. I had this when we first got the car but reasonable force and later preventative winding has got rid of the issue. But in your case you could try cleaning and lubricating the rubber runner seals bit by bit, you give the crank handle reasonable force to get the window down as much as you can then clean and lubricate that bit of the seals, then wind up over the bit you have cleaned and lubricated and down a few times before repeating the bit by bit process until all runs smoothly. Then in future when you open the back doors consider winding all the way down and up to keep things free. For cleaning and lubricating the rubber runner seals, I favour GT85 for this and many other things on the car as it's a good lubricant, penetrating/releasing agent, it cleans and smells nice, doesn't have silicone which can be good but has PTFE instead, once a British product now owned by a large well known corporation. Once you have cleaned and lubricated (what many service, maintenance and repair jobs boil down to) then try to hand crank the win You could also us a silicone spray (or oil) as demonstrated in this video. -

If they were both 10w-40 then my apologies, there are far to many posts on oil for me to remember the details (and yes I have contributed a lot too). I didn't think there would be but can never be sure, knowing this now I will try to find Morris Lubricant products as they can serve as an example only. As for your VW colour chart my wife and I are in trouble as my wife's VW/Skoda had the VW/Skoda Dealership carry out the annual service this September, (this time is was the 8 year/80,000-mile service) "to manufacturers specification" using 0w-30 engine oil and even in England we have outside temperatures of above 60f/15.6c, in 2022 locally we had 40.2c (104.36f). I will have to tell my wife we can only use the car for short periods when the outside temperature is above 60f/15.6c, that should save a bit on petrol expense if nothing else. Religion (including sports), politics and figures are always highly debated. 🙂

Good to have period information like the Felicia Workshop Manual dated July 2000, I note the "Ausgabe 01.98" at the bottom of the page which in English manuals usually/often means the original issue date of the information but I would never be certain about what VW mean, Google translates ausgabe as output. IF "Ausgabe 01.98" means issue date then the information is from 25 years ago. I find information from when the car is new is usually a very good starting point and often the best finishing point but not always as things change and sometimes there are improvements.

Sewn on colour badge "Skoda recommends Castrol Edge Professional". Yes - but - did you not see the links to the articles about myths, pity part four wasn't available. Millers Oils recommended Trident Professional 10w-40 (and 5w-40) that would be allowing for charging over the Welsh mountains (37.1C highest recorded air temperature) the oil is available at low cost (half the price of EE Performance at the moment) and just for it's labelled as "Fully synthetic". Trident Professional 10w40 - Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt. - 14.0 https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/trident-10w40-2/ Yes you tried 'a' synthetic oil 10W-40 - but the world is your oyster with engine oils. Here is a 10w-50 example which I don't think you might get in Greece (but I could as always be wrong) - Multivis MLR 10W-50 (Previously X-RPM Competition 10W-50) - Viscosity @ 100ºC (cSt) - 18.5 Viscosity @ 40ºC (cSt) - 128.4 https://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/products/auto/automotive-engine-oils/multivis-mlr-10w-50-engine-oil.html

I don't know where the refresh button is (secret menu? or combination of pressing buttons?) but if you haven't already tried then have a look at your 'Operation Manual' for the infotainment and try a search for stations and store them again and perhaps go into the advanced set-up for DAB and check the settings are as you want them. If you search this forum or the site I think there was info on the DAB "aerial" and booster/amplifier but I can't even remember what the items were called let alone their location. Our DAB BBC national radio stations reception on the home portable has been iffy recently, "quality" in 70s% or even 50s%, normally 95-100%, but all's been fine in my wife's Fabia.

Tyres are a good place to start looking and fit for use doesn't mean they're necessarily that good. As well as checking pressure (remember to reset the tyres from the menu if you adjust inflation) check the manufacture date on all tyres and that all four, or at least sets of two on the axles, match in make, model and (roughly) manufacture date. Even if there's loads of tread left on the tyres if they're old they can go hard and if they're done lots of miles and lots of tread left they may have started with already being hard hence the lack of tread wear and perhaps meaning they're noisy tyres. Noisy tyres can help to transmit other noise more giving a noisy cacophony. Wind noise might be drying/dried out door seals or perhaps door(s) fit if the vehicle had damage there (I'm sure my wife's car might have). Engine noise at 92k-miles, have you got any servicing and maintenance history on the car, do you know if the spark plugs and engine air filter have been changed, and how many times, was there regular and timely engine oil & filter changes? At 8 years old and 92k-miles I'd also be thinking of brake fluid changes and coolant (and perhaps gearbox oil but that's just me) condition of brake discs & pads. Do you know how the mileage was done and spread out over the years, MoT and service history should give you a lot of mileage history, high mileages can be good and low mileages bad but it depends on the owner(s)/driver(s) use and abused of the vehicle and its servicing and maintenance.

The following is only a thought of something I might try if I didn't have access to a coding machine, not saying anyone else need take any notice, agree or try it, just a thought. I might discharge the new battery a reasonable amount with a load on it before fitting it to the car then when it's fitted to the car fully charge it up with an appropriate battery charger and maintainer connected as prescribed by the Owner's Manual so that the car's computer can see how much charge the battery can take on. My theory, as I don't know, computers are very thick and it doesn't need to know the battery is new only what the battery parameter(s) is/are. Perhaps whoever/team that put together the computer program for all this VW battery stuff might tell me what I've put is a load of rocks. 😄 The battery serial number/code seems to me only to be of use to VW to record factory, or perhaps Dealer (warranty), fitted batteries to record them for warranty, recall and faulty batteries or just blame the battery providers (as if a vehicle manufacturer would ever do that). It seems with some VW cars they didn't record the battery serial/code at the factory anyway, that info could be picked up if required later, my wife's had the ten 1s, perhaps they were only interested in knowing the supplier by that point(?). The use of a scan tool does mean you can delete any error codes a very low battery might have caused to give the computers a fresh start without their worry pills straight off but the error codes probably go with use of the car anyway. It's suggested that after fitting the new battery without coding that after the car is started for the first time the steering wheel is turned to full lock in both directions, I guess this informs the computer(s) that the battery has enough power to do so, and if running say the air-con at the same time it might convince the computer even more, but I don't know. I think the newer the car the better it might be to have and use an appropriate battery charger and maintainer when thought necessary or needed, all those electric items and complex computer programs on and in a car, wot could possibly go wrong. 🙃

You've got the posts above so you can decide for yourself. Why not make your existing battery last longer by charging it up fully with an appropriate battery charger and maintainer now and later when required in the future, preferably before it gets too low, as a preventative and maintenance procedure. Batteries were more expensive at one point earlier at least and that might(?) have been due a shortage because of a VW (Skoda?) rare 🙂 drop in German engineering quality with battery charging issues (? I forget) and/or the battery recall (the number I forget). If you can get easy and relatively inexpensive access to a relevant 'coding' machine and someone to input the data correctly that would be best and probanly/possibly speed things up of the computer "learning" it has a new battery fitted.

Yes another fully synthetic oil too. 😄 Not that I expect anyone to believe other than what they want to, this is is the internet after all, but I emailed Millers Oils and they replied "you would have no issues using a fully synthetic product". I also emailed Mutol (a French company owned by a lady IIRC what the chap told on their stand at the NEC a couple of years back) but no reply yet from Mutol. I think you want Fuchs for a German connection. Or go Polish Czech to get a bit nearer Skoda than VW. BTW Duckhams might be a British brand but IIRC it is part of Moove which is Comma (Brazilian), Comma also made the Halfords, Wilco and their own name Classic Motor oils, all green in colour, like Duckhams famously was, IIRC.

Duckhams, a different company to back then even, more a case of a brand name under different ownership . - https://www.duckhams.com/about-us/duckhams-heritage/ Haynes was British and Duckhams was British so bot too surprising about the tie up, note the publisher of this book off Duckhams' website. - https://www.duckhams.com/duckhams-full-story/#dearflip-df_2622/1/ I can't remember if Haynes had Duckhams in my 1974 and 1980 books.

Or perhaps at the time VW signed a mutually beneficial deal with a different oil company, perhaps for a wider range of products to also cover the other VW owned car brands and models (I don't know just speculating without any evidence). My wife's 2015 VW/Skoda Fabia has Castrol (forget which product) over the folder that holds the car's cards and Owners booklets and at Dealerships servicing Castrol engine oil products are recorded as being used, which oil company/product did VW/Skoda recommend/promote in 1994, 1997, 2000?

Yes I saw that on their website but I didn't know if a 10w-40 was previously available in a European formula, oils and their labels get changed with sales and marketing needs and wants. 5W-40 (AFL) - Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt (ASTM D445) - 14.3 Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D445) - 88.5 https://amsoilcontent.com/ams/lit/databulletins/g3395.pdf I would contact Amsoil Europe and see what oil they suggest, as I have their oil finder, when I tried it, suggested as I put above (unless I typo'd anything). I know you, quite rightly, would check any information, opinion or belief you get off the internet or from a manufacturer and go your own way. Yes. I used Mobil 1 in at least one old "classic" if not two before your Felicia was made or you bought it and they both had cork gaskets. One that I know of was still going a couple of decades later after I sold it, the other I know was going fine a few years later but was moved off-shore so contact and records were lost. With my last "classic" which I had for 15 years I ran on various oils from initially mineral to Mobil 1 to a Millers, the current owner, along with his two other "classics" uses Castrol Magnatec (semi-syn?) as his brother works for Castrol. He also uses silicone brake fluid in his "classics", for the 25+ years since he restored one that I can remember - but that's a different can of worms. AFAIK his "classics" will have cork seals, unless he's updated their materials, I can't remember asking about them. I was told by some "classic" owners back then, particularly those that rarely drove their "classics" whereas I was using mine daily, that the Mobil 1 would ruin the engines, rot my teeth and steal my looks, the engines were fine and I still have all my own teeth and looks. 😁 All the "classics" mentioned above had engines designed in the 1950s and built in the 60s, one in the 70s and one replacement engine in the 80s. I have also used Mobil 1 in old and brand new Rover V8 engines in various cars, the engines being made in the 70s and 90s. I can not with honesty tell you if the synthetic oils I have used have caused or made worse any leaks to any seals including cork on my last "classic" as old British engines tend to leak a bit anyway, I do remember initially it being without oil leaks as it was reconditioned but after tens of thousands of miles of use, and unlike many "classic" owners I don't drive them like Miss Daisy, (and a couple of head gasket failures) it did leak, certainly from the rocker cover even after I changed from cork seal to silicone seal (I wished I had done that many years before). One way to check if an old British made engine has oil in it is to look and see if any is dripping out. 😄

Splitting hairs I know but semi-synthetic and synthetic are generally used as marketing terms and tools, a good oil is a good oil be it mineral, semi or fully synthetic (and you can often get better of those if you need/want to). Best to buy first to cover your particularly needs and second to cover your particular wants and then not worry too much what the label is. I've had people tell me they've never changed the oil in a car and run the car fine for years, not my choice but good luck to them, others, particularly engineers, tell me any oil (of recommended grade/weight) is fine in an older car buy whatever is on low price offer and that may well often be fine too, depends on your needs and wants. You could hardly want more consumer choice in things like engine oils, possibly far too much for a long time, and ever increasing thanks to modern motor manufacturers' demands (like VW's). 😄

Either I have remembered wrong (very possible) or things must have change as I am sure last time I put up a stockist you put they were hard to get to and P&P is very prohibitive to Greece. I don't see the ones I linked to but 5W-40 EE LONGLIFE in 1l bottles is with a 14.1 (and a 85.9) if you like those figures. I will have to think of a blender you don't get over there next time. 😄 That's the first one I saw when looking but it's the US of A version, I expected you were attracted by the labelling having "High Zinc Formula" and "Flat Tappets" and on site "Ideal for applications where the extra protection of a higher-viscosity oil is desired. Excellent for motor homes and older vehicles, as well as many types of modern equipment and compatible with some motorcycles.". Do bear in mind it's the additive package that matters rather than just one ingredient of the package and old American cars and bikes are different from European ones, their motor manufacturers stuck with old designs and technologies as generally that suited their corporations, in many ways they remain backwards facing. You let the SL (up to 2004) and no VW approval go by (as I would) - AMSOIL Premium Protection Synthetic 10W-40 (AMO) Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt (ASTM D445) - 14.6 Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D445) - 95.9 https://www.amsoil.com/p/premium-protection-10w-40-synthetic-motor-oil-amo/ I assume you buy in 3.874 litres (1 US Gallon) cans, it might be less expensive to see if Amsoil sell a more local equivalent (or near equivalent) version and or look for small racing oil supplier businesses as I have sometimes found they offer lower prices especially if the blender is changing labels or cans and want clearance of current label/can supply. You have loads of choices for oil so as Dave Allen almost said - and may your oil belief go with you. 🙂

Don't get stuck too much on the numbers, a better oil with better base stock and better additive package will offer better and wider protection for longer. If you only want numbers then why not cover the range with a 5w-50 (bearing in mind 5w and 50 or any other set are ranges and oils vary where they are in the ranges and how long they stay at their figures). Castrol GTX 15W-40 – Viscosity - Kinematic 100C (ASTM D445) – 13.9 Viscosity - Kinematic 40C (ASTM D445) – 105 https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/0E6EE706A3D90A638025842A006879BB/$File/BPXE-BDPMLT.pdf Amsoil Europe on their ‘Find the right oil’ don’t have a 10w-40 listed for a 2000 Felicia 1.3 but instead Extreme Power Motor Oil 0W-40, Extreme Power Motor Oil 0W-30, Synthetic European Motor Oil MS 5W-40, Synthetic European Motor Oil LS 5W-30, Synthetic European Motor Oil FS 5W-40 and Synthetic European Motor Oil FS 0W-40, of course as with all databases theirs could have errors. So I don’t know which Amsoil 10w-40 D.FYLAKTOS might be using. https://amsoil.eu/products/car-engine-oils/ As they’re not easy to get in Greece the following are for example only. Millers EE Performance Engine Oil 5w50 - Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt. – 18.4 https://www.millersoils.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/8209-EE-Peformance-5w50.pdf Millers EE Performance Engine Oil C3 5w40 - Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt. –13.6 https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/ee-performance-engine-oil-c3-5w40/ Millers EE Performance Engine Oil 10w40 – Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt. – 13.8 https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/ee-performance-engine-oil-10w40/ The oil belief merry-go-round tends to make the riders feel dizzy and/or sick so it's better to get off it sooner than later. 🙃 Usual chart.

VW being VW have their own specification of coolant, the number used to be on the coolant tank unless it varies for your country the current VW spec is G12evo (TL774L) available as pre-mixed or concentrate, . You can check this and get lots more information by reading the Owner's Manual. Available from here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models HTH. From 6/2022 English version of manual. -

@Zuglie thanks for reporting back - new battery battery, alternator and belt should take your daughter a lot, lot, lot longer to drain the battery but it's still possible if your daughter is a high electric user, especially on short journeys or parked up engine off, charging up various items whilst just finishing those important "media" and phone calls that go on because the journey was too short to say and hear or send and view everything needed (or not). 😄

Thanks for the update. If the battery was sorted/changed/'coded' correctly then you'd want someone with an relevant scan tool for the complex VW programs to get to the bottom of this with a report and diagnosis, as you've found a cheap general reader will only turn the light off until the engine is run again (I see I did previously offer my a link to VCDS owners that might be able to help with this, some for beer token. My wife's car was some sort of Dealer use car bought at 10k-mile use (abuse?) the start/stop is push-buttoned off as routine and the car get used with most weeks work commute of under 2 miles 4 or 5 days a week so I occasionally get the battery charger maintainer out for preventative use and very, very occasionally give the car a "blow out" on the very few times I can as my wife is by far the main driver. Until last year I used various 60s and 70s "classic" (over priced, over valued old) cars as daily, work, commute, club, holiday use for 30 years or so, never had a starter handle, never needed one on the "classics" but I did on my early 90s English car and as it wasn't available so I parked the car on a slope and bumped started it (no cat), once in reverse on a hill and then stalled it doing a "three-point turn" luckily it was just a matter of taking the handbrake off and bump starting it again and quick with the brake and clutch pedals so I didn't charge back down the hill in reverse. It'll be interesting to hear what your problem(s) are with your car and how they're resolved as they may well be different to others with start/stop issues.

Attached link is a map of VCDS owners that might be able to help with running a report and resets, some perhaps for just beer tokens. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me)

If it's not a manual AC with the usual fan speed controller failure then as it's VW I always suspect the computer programs, have look on the web for any reset procedures. Or if you know anyone with an appropriate VW scan tool you can look for any errors or things amiss and/or carry out a reset on the tool maybe.

Quick thoughts, if you have access to a good scanner that could give you a report with dates for components and programs, or you can get build info from the VIN by paying a few euros to a chap on eBay (I don't have the link at the moment) or if you ask here (Superb forum perhaps) someone might be able to date your engine. number.