Former

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes it helps a lot thanks. The VW battery numbering BEM QR (abc...wxyz) system is thankfully a thing of the past so don't have to worry about VW's need for statistics. I would fully recharge that battery and keep it as long as possible. Banner is a well known name for batteries but as with other items some brands and names are known better in some places than others and a name you've not heard of could be a main brand elsewhere. I think your battery is equivalent to a 096 battery size - @varooom can confirm or point out my error, Tayna Batteries list of 096 EFB (required for start/stop) battery list (including Banner). - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/096-efb/ You want a battery of the correct type and physical size for fitting and at least the 680 (EN/SAE) cold cranking amps for starting and 69Ah (amperage hours) storage capacity as this matches factory fitted. As for battery charger and maintainer some have been buying the £15 one from Lidl and many favour C-Tek but I think they're a bit expensive, having said that my old Accumate are now £62. ETA: Follow the instructions in the Owner's Manual for recharging. However without any research (other than owning a 30+ years old 4-amp traditional charger and a 20+ year old 4-stage, 1.2 amp charger and maintainer) I went for one I saw somebody else using. It's rated at 4 amps which is more than enough unless you don't have time (or patience), works down to -20c, is automatic to standard and start/stop batteries, other than selecting car (12v) or car (12v) for winter setting (it doesn't say so but I take that as when the temperature is below (+)5c). I got it for £23.49 off eBay, other suppliers and prices available of course. There is also a 6 amp (faster charging) version. The one I have, Ring RSC 804 - 4A Smart Battery Charger & Maintainer -https://www.ringautomotive.com/en/product/RSC804 Ring RSC 806 - 6A Smart Battery Charger & Maintainer - https://www.ringautomotive.com/en/product/RSC806 RSC804_RSC806_RSC808_Instructions.pdf RSC804_Spec.pdf Below is the RSC 804 connected to my wife's Fabia, with an 18-month old AGM battery, charged overnight outside when the temperature went down to -3.5c, after 16 hours it wasn't fully recharged but the car was needed and within an hour the next evening it was showing full.

No. Lazy, bigoted wording response, and from someone who says they're in Brighton, please explain or justify that response or be honest and show yourself for how you really are and feel. ETA: same for any poster currently residing in France, you know who you are.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'm not the biggest fan of Haynes as the 1974 and 1980 versions of my last car carried over errors and omissions and the 1990 version for the gearbox I had was very unclear with details but I like the colour and simplicity of the diagram you posted - subject to accuracy, that was missing from the Owner's Manual for my wife's 2015 Fabia. Thank you.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Forgive me, to slightly suggest someone who is also an engineer might be slightly off 100% correct, I am truly not worthy of your slightest recognition, I soil the ground your your boots tread on on. If I understood, even after Googling, what you were on-about I'd gladly give you £5, whether you'd earn it or not. as I bow to your superiority over me. Does bull**** baffle brains, I've no idea I'm not that clever, let me know. Are you really in Brighton with that sort of terminology. I realised I overstepped the mark by questioning your attitude please forgive me as I'm well below you. Once again I have questioned those better than me without knowing what I'm doing. please take pity on me, or at least try to humiliate me with something I can't look up on Google (if not fully understand). As always, love and kisses to you. 😉

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Grasshopper, you are learning, although truly there's nothing wrong with being a traffic warden other than perhaps the actual person who is in that position (same as any other profession or trained, certificated, perhaps part-time or full-time "uni" position) . I'm glad for you that your mental health isn't inhibited as your understanding, or at least (partial) acceptance, reluctantly, expands (improves), it's truly a joy to be aware of. 😉

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thank you. I did wonder if that might be the case but a 1990 printed Haynes is the newest I've seen.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @KeithCheetham your clumsy attempt at sarcasm was off mark as the OP question, and later related question, was answered and clarified early on in the thread so there was no need for anyone to read further posts, related or drift, if they didn't want to. @sepulchrave you contributed to thread drift halfway through Page 1 and put two more posts about Elise tyres on Page 2 so now your upset is partially self-inflicted and anyway as the OP question, and later related question, was answered and clarified early on in the thread so there was no need for anyone to read or contribute further posts, related or drift, if they didn't want to. You obviously have been corrupted into thread drift. 😉 Serious question: why don't one or both of you become Moderators then you might be able to better control what you want to see in the threads (or buy the site and have the strict control you want)? Wonder how many groans I get for this post. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @TMB where do you get such clear diagrams from please?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I lose posts too. Well if the alarm works you're covered for insurance at least. The little red flashing LED is so last century, as I'm usually passenger side I didn't notice for ages after my wife got the car. Perhaps your alarm has been swapped and that light is redundant. As already put I don't think any would-be thief would take any notice if it was there or not, many will already have flashing lights in their heads perhaps. My neighbour had an aftermarket system fitted many years back with a little numerical keypad on the dash and long after it had stopped working his wife used to pretend to put in the code. Across the road an aftermarket in an old carvan with a blue LED that's so big and bright behind the rearview mirror that you can't avoid seeing it even when you want to, yet the alarm whistle is quite quiet.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Now toot you're being a bit unfair, perhaps they meant it's 85% of 1 litre, MPI, manual, 2020, colour Edition Fabias in the UK area of Stourbridge served by Johnson’s garage. 😄 Car manufacturers don't exactly shout about all the problems they have with their products and perhaps some even go out of their way to hide some of the issues, how else can they maintain the belief in German engineering quality. 😉

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If your cooling fan is on all the time that could contribute to the charge in your car's battery depleting which also might trigger your start/stop to disable, you would normally get a warning about this but often these warnings can come too late and just because the car starts and the lights seem bright enough it can be that the battery is in a low state of charge which can trigger other warnings and possible issues. I would ask the Skoda dealer to test the battery and give me the printout or record of the result, batteries aren't cheap for these cars. Personally I would buy an appropriate battery charger and maintainer (my recent purchase cost £23.49 and Lidl had some at £15) as battery/charging problems are the number one cause of breakdown callouts - not trying to scare you just inform you and you will find that on the net, try The AA website. I was speaking with a chap yesterday waiting for a recovery truck for his big 2009 Jaguar, he knew he had battery issues (not the battery really) but still put all the glass heaters on, blower and both front seat heaters at 5 am before leaving his place of work when it was -2c, some people just don't help themselves. His battery gave up the punishment on a busy road before 9 am, breakdown van can told his the alternator (which helps the battery) was dead and he need a loader (and he had the big long Jaguar, XJ) hopefully it arrived with him at the promised 1 pm.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Murdockman posted whilst I was still typing. One thing I would say don't bother with WD-40 Multi-Use instead get a can of GT85 and it will disperse the water and is a better lubricant than WD-40 Multi-Use and doesn't contain silicone which some say can coat the paintwork, GT85 has PTFE. ETA: It will also help to ease the rubber back into place.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you want to know if you have a (factory) working alarm fitted then just use the keyblade to open the door and do not put the key into the ignition lock and switch the ignition on within 15 seconds after unlocking the door - you and your neighbours will soon know. Or perhaps you don't want to know and assume for insurance purposes that it is working. I too prefer not to have a car alarm or electronic immobiliser just more potential for trouble.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @NeilMH you can save screen space and virtual ink by ending the link after the itm (item) number, as in. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325285385141 The rest is the search path you took apparently, or so I was told. That's different to the one in the spare wheel well of my wife's 2015 Mk3 but that is a hatchback.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hence the two bracketed question marks, I have seen them mentioned on this site, try this. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Well you seem to put more effort than most into your ownership, some makes and or models will reward you much than others for this. I like your idea of the remote pressure valve for the tyre in the boot but about once a year you may still probably want to take the wheel out to inspect the tyre.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I think you got your reference tables the other way round to what I mean, not wrong just needs adjusting. 😉 And the little overweight German cars also get wide tyres, needed or not

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. IIRC far from the original idea of the Lotus engineers then but of course engineers often make amendments - but never mistakes. 😉 😁 More (thread) drifting than a Halford's car park. Early Elise with roundy-round driver of the time. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry I've mislead you, it was the early (front?) pads on the earlier Elise that gave more of a track feel to the pedal, hard, and press later, whether they needed a bit of warming too I can't remember. I was very used to non-servo brakes, Spridget and Westies. I compared my MG BGT with servo against a non-servo B roadster and allowing for the difference in weight, car and tyres the braking distance was of course the same but different pedal feel, the different systems suited the different versions of the model I thought. The tyres of course make a big difference too.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yeah I was thinking of Fabias (but not the factory souped up jobs). But it's not just oil dilution problems on this car.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. (Partial O/T warning) 16" 😄 My mate's had his (factory built) N-reg ZEi 130 for over 25 years now and that's always been on 14" which makes me think it's a Clubman (take it to the track more) version as my new 1996 (P-reg Dealer not factory built) ZEi was on 15", as were the factory built Euro SEiGHTs. Plus his didn't have a heater whereas all mine were road going versions with heater (needed in winter and summer). All had independent rear suspension but I've only had de-dion suspension when I had a Rover P6 and that was so comfortable that I'd prefer to sit in the back as a passenger. Looks like 15" on your Elise but the body colour makes such a difference to how thinks look on such a car. I remember swapping drives with an early Elise on a club road event and I'm used to soft braking so even though I was told about the early Elise brake feel I took a bit of persuading to push the pedal harder and later. It reminded me when I test drove the new MGF and the brakes were very good compared to what I was used to and I thought that was fine as long as another MGF was behind. All road stuff I don't do roundy-round stuff except on very few times with restrictions. I loved the feel of the Elise, a metal tray flexing at four corners at once (forget the correct word) and the interior but the long gear lever, sills for getting in and out and the roof were a different matter but I believe bikini tops are now available. The Vauxhall had a plastic kiddies toy looking dash and radio but of course had the Toyota engine so a lot to offer (not that I'd know as I've never even driven one). 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. With some other engine it has been found that using a lower weight of oil has helped reduce oil dilution but as the VW engineers only specify their VW oil code specification (probably for the additive package to help with compromises in the engines?) there could be a range of oil weights. In the UK it might be 5w40, 5w30, 0w30 but you would know better which weight is better for use where you live. ETA: I am not suggesting a different weight of oil will overcome a fault with the engine in this car. I am with the others that suggest you reject this car as I cannot remember seeing anything about oil dilution on here - and - it has an oil oil leak - and - not much use in three years is generally not that good for a car, I would prefer higher mileage and or regular use over reasonable distance journeys. The absent of error codes does not mean there are not problems, do not over rely on error codes or the car's warning lights and messages as all can show too late to be of the best use. As you have already found human senses, including the mind can be in advanced of the car's error codes and warning lights and messages. If it was me I would walk away from the car and the Dealer.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you want second hand they're (?)often(?) seen for sale, perhaps the sales section here or places like eBay obviously you'd want the correct type, usually sorted by part numbers. I'd imagine too that you could buy the the filler with the set of the kit that fills it as new but I've never looked for such. You'll probably find threads on here about this, try a Google search to get back to the threads here.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Friends used to live above the snow line at Castel Bolton, (real so they kept telling me) Yorkshire and with a sloping drive their Scooby got snowed in and they said even the farmer's Landies couldn't get up the road to the village and the only vehicle that made it was an even then very old Vauxhall Nova, little engine and skinny wheels and tyres. SAABs, Volvo, Honda - what on earth brought you over to VWSkoda!! For season tyres you could put up a thread here or on the Wheel Zone or Tyre Zone, what about buying a set of s/h wheels in a different size for the winter tyres(?).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'm probably older than you so wonder if 15" wheels are still bigger than is actually needed, other than for cosmetics of the wheel arches of course, depends on the brakes fitted of course but then often the brakes on many cars are just mine's bigger than yours sort of thing. Being used to the, formerly, more developed Westfields 😊 a mate told me that the race boys and girls were going back to 13" from 14" and I remember when Caterham first put the lovely Suzuki Cappuccino engine in and used steel (!!) wheels with 155 tyres I bet that was beyond most potential and actual buyers. The Lotus Elise engineers apparently wanted "skinny" wheels and tyres on the original car but the marketing lads said the cars wouldn't sell well without fashionable sizes. (Just seen you had an Elise, coincidence only that I mentioned it). Grip is more about tyre design and compounds than outright size. Sometimes less is more and you'd make less mistakes with more progressive involvement but it's good that physics is considered rather than thinking the car's computer systems can better all road or driving conditions, particularly from the driver. I declare, I am not a particularly good driver.