Former

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yeap good for some of the car's computer systems but not any good for full use of the wheel and tyre in rotation of the wheels on the car to get use of five wheels and tyres rather than four and possibly the one in the boot never used. Take no notice of me I think the now decades old fashion for bigger and wider wheels and low profile tyres is just that particularly on family runabout type cars and motorised shopping trollies but I know I'm in a tiny minority, as always it's each to there own. 🙂

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. All good stuff. If the 12.7/8v are after a couple of hours after parking up and much longer after recharging then they are very good. Be aware, do not wait for or fully rely on when warning lights and messages and error codes appear as often they are delayed and you or your spouse could notice if something is wrong well before the car's computers or the scanner tell you. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Dunlop SP Sport 195/55 R1 sounds like a standard tyre. A 15" wheel is oversized to the vehicle to me so to have one and tyre that can only be used as an emergency spare would be another annoyance to me, my wife's previous car had a steel wheel of the same size as the four alloys fitted but the tyre was IIRC one ratio shorter so it fitted in the spare wheel well even more annoying. You probably already know Haynes can have errors and omissions in their manuals, I'd normally go on the Driver's Handbooks instead but VW(Skoda) Owner's Manuals are not always the best written and don't contain things like tyre pressure and oil weights and capacities info most others I've seen do. The DoT manufactured dates are often on the other side it's another example of Sod's Law. You seem well set up in the tyre inflation and pressure checking departments.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Jocko, thanks to UP now know - 1G9 (?RER?) is 'Space-saving spare wheel for temporary use, radial tire (5-hole)'. What are (all) the wordings and markings on your spare tyre as this will help perhaps to decide the matter, IIRC the few (ridiculously thinner) space saver tyres I've had all had 'Inflate to . . . ' on them. I'd sooner (did always) carry a manual footpump than the wheezy plug-in inflates that often burn themselves out and/or blow a car fuse given some real work to do or user neglecting the instructions for them. The one VWSkoda provided in my wife's Mk3 is particularly noisy and weedy and I think the gauge on it is about as accurate as my pronunciation and spelling.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Great news in the end and well done to you for finding it. 👍 12.1v is about 50% charge to Ring Automotive or 40% to VW. From my experience - I'm not an electrician, auto-electrician or VW specialist or specialist of any sort - just my decades of experience dealing with my neighbours 12v car batteries - a long low slow charge of the battery with an appropriate battery charger will get the most into it and out of it, 4 amp fine, 2 amp perhaps even finer. It will take longer but it will be better, might take 20+ hours to fully recharge so will need some things many don't carry much stock of, patience and time. I've revived a few "dead" batteries, had 2 failures so far, of course the others weren't dead, in the same way that a "good" battery often isn't when someone tells you it is, in my experience. Then obviously you want to keep an eye on the charged battery to see how well it holds that charge with self-discharge and with load, throwing it on the car for a while would give it a real world test and you've got all the equipment to monitor it now. Cheers.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I suggest that you fully recharge your battery with an appropriate charger and maintainer, even though it's not 4 months old, as this is not the time of year to beak down as many others are with flat batteries and charging system problems, usually alternator. Whether you put the charger on tonight or over the weekend, if you know the battery is fully charged then you have a good point of reference to start from for your diagnostics and perhaps when dealing with the people where you bought your car from. Machines for testing batteries and alternators are not rare exotic items freely available in a wide range of sorts to garages and DIY, whether they are always used appropriately and properly is a different matter, unfortunately not all the people in the motor trade are as honourable as they could be, your lot might not be trustworthy enough to sort an alternator problem - but I'm being biased as I don't know of course, they might be as pure as the driven snow and perhaps your alternator is fine and you have a rare faulty battery that won't accept charge. What Halford battery did you buy?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I would just check all fixings are as tight as they should be and give the hinges a spray of suitable lubricant (GT85 in my case as I prefer it to the other lubricants I have used and have available to me in my shed). As you I would leave any more work until spring (which spring would be less certain).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I would put a bet on if the battery was a bit low let alone flat that it could cause you all sorts of unexpected issues and possibly warning lights and message before you even know or are warmed officially that the battery is a bit too low for the car's computers and their programs. You did not reply if the battery held its 12.8v charge with the battery charger or maintainer disconnected and for how long it holds that charge. If a battery is taken too low and not replenished but with further discharge then it may not ever fully recover even if fully rechargers so do keep an eye on your battery until you know that it is reliable. The better quality and newer the better recovery it can make but it does depend on the use (abuse and neglect) it had received and the use (abuse and neglect) in future short, medium and long term. Some can just not understand or accept how important the 12v battery is to the car and the newer and more luxurious the the car the greater the battery's state of charge and health importance is. A 2013 VW(Skoda) start/stop car is very battery needy. Playing with sexy toys like scanners is fun but but never neglect the basics, like the battery's state of charge and health.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. How much the battery gets from a long drive depends on what the battery is giving out and getting back in, the alternator could also be working a lot to keep up. Once a battery has been depleted it doesn't always come back from that completely depending on its age and use (abuse and neglect from many). This is another reason to fully recharge when things get a bit low. The batteries are designed for regular use and charging. I don't know of any portable chargers and something like solar trickle chargers would be impracticable. The only sensible working solution I can think of is to fully recharge the battery ASAP by removing the battery from the car and fully charging it in/at home and if the battery is in a good state then just keep an eye on it after reconnecting. Check your Owner's Manual for how to lock and unlock the car without power, as long as you have the windows and roof closed I think others have said you lose nothing that's listed in the Owner's Manual other than the time of day clock. Personally I'd still do the windows reset/synchronise as it's so quick and easy to do. Then up to you if you want to do the full recharges the twice or three times a year as prevention and longevity of battery life or do them when you have convenient parking. Or you could get a multimeter or battery tester (sometimes combined with an alternator tester) and check as required and replace the battery as required. I look after the battery on my neighbour's car as the car simply get so very little use, it's only a very small battery but I often find it more convenient to remove it from the car and fully charge it in the shed, or spare room in winter, and manually lock his car and reset the clock than having an extension lead from ours to his. As the battery ages I'm checking it a bit more often and fully recharged it off the car the other week (just about needed it too) because it'd be easy for me to remember I'd done it at start of January.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Empower yourself simply by having a look at your Owner's Manual, if you read the Owner's Manual and refer to it when required you will know more about your car than many long term owners and know or can find what all these named things are. You only need to know where to find the information, the Owner's Manual, rather than having to remember all the different names and different acronyms that the different car manufacturers use for the same thing. If you don't have the paper printed copy you can get a pdf download from the following link using your VIN (vehicle identification number) found on the car and in the paperwork for your car or just look at the (part) year your car was made. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Have a look at your Owner's Manual, if you read the Owner's Manual and refer to it when required you will know more about your car than many long term owners. If you don't have the paper printed copy you can get a pdf download from the following link using your VIN (vehicle identification number) found on the car and in the paperwork for your car or just look at the (part) year your car was made. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models From the 05. 2009 Owner's Manual. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thanks for reporting back and informing others. This is the problem many warnings will come too late, just because the car starts and the lights seem bright enough it can still be that the battery charge is too low for the computer programs and they will throw up all sorts of unexpected other warnings and issues - as you have discovered. Often just driving is not enough to fully recharge the battery, that's part of the reason the battery gets low in the first place, as varooom has put a full recharge with an appropriate battery charger (and maintainer) is required. C-Tek are good but personally I think they're expensive and a low slow charge is better better than a higher fast charge but it does require time and patience as it could take up to 24 hours+. See this post I put up last night for more details.-

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Did you check the new thermostat before installing it? Have you removed the new thermostat since it was suggested to you? Just because something is new doesn't mean it can't be faulty, did you buy a good quality thermostat or cheapest you could find on the web? You haven't given a lot of info to go on, how long have you had the car and it hasn't got up to temperature? How long has the top hose only been warm, summer, winter, part of winter? The dpf light may well be on if the engine is running cool but it could also be on for other reasons separate or in addition to the cool running. What type of journeys do you normally make in distance, time and type (stop/start city, b-road slow or blasts, A-road slow or blasts, motorway)? What is the service history of the car, have you plugged in a scan tool, if so what temperature readings did you get for the various temperature sensors? Just because you have changed a lot of parts doesn't mean they were necessarily directly good for this issue(s) and changing more still may not resolve this. I've always been in favour of thorough cleaning of the whole coolant/heating systems and flush / back-flush flush again at each stage of cleaning and system but that's more about efficient cooling. What have you done to the engine rather than the cooling/heating system?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Steve, this is what I'm going to do and I think it'd benefit others too. With the appropriate (Ring 4 amp) smart battery charger and maintainer I'm going to recharge the (AGM) battery on my wife's car when winter tyres would be fitted (by others, we don't need them) and again when they would be taken off, so start and end of real winter weather - and again just after hottest part of summer weather. The battery (and car and charging system) don't do as well in really cold or really hot weather, say the battery likes (+)5c to 20c, at 30c the self-discharge factor doubles compared to 20c (twenty), at 40c (as we had here last summer) the self-discharge factor doubles compared to 30c (thirty) which is why I'm adding in the summer recharge. To give you an idea, my wife's AGM battery was 18-months, though the car normally gets mainly short runs the previous couple of weeks it had at least three long runs. I put the Ring RSC 804 (4 amp) charger on (as per Owner's Manual instructions) and set it to winter setting (below +5c normally though not stated) and it tool 17 hours to fully recharge the battery in temperatures of (+)2c to -3.5c. Other makes, models suppliers and prices are available (Lidl had some for £15). Ring RSC804 "4a Smart Battery Charger & Maintainer" (up to 90 Ah) (they do a 6 amp version too RSC 806, up to 110 Ah)) - https://www.ringautomotive.com/en/product/RSC804 £23.49 - a bit less from some other places - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334438759247

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Steve, if the charger is old but has a slow charge (setting) and lower amps (rather than fast charge and higher amps) then that's OK you might just have needed to give it longer, you can always give it another go. As you have experienced getting something into the battery is better than nothing and what a can happen with a battery in a low state of charge. For future it might be worth you getting an appropriate charger, Lidl are selling one for £15 or I bought a Ring for £23.49 (other sellers and prices and makes and models available). Personally I'd not go over 4 amps but I have time and patience which I know some lack one or both. Personally I'd want and expect more than 5 years out of a battery but there are many variables ( including German marques like VW practices). Good idea but do bear in mind car 12v batteries are one of the most oversold car parts, on the other hand a battery that has been used, abused and neglected too much and/or too often can only recover so much for so long. As varooom has pointed out it may also be worth getting your alternator tested too, some battery testers can also test alternators too.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. To me, it doesn't matter as much what is actually happening as what the VW computer programs believe is happening. I'm all for rebooting the computers and their programs, as far across a yard or field as I can. 😄 I know no more than basics and the fact that computer engineers actually often do resort to resets or "turn off 'n' on agen" so using perhaps VCDS and/or (I favour) quick, free, easy disconnect battery, turn ignition on press and hold brake pedal and turn headlights on, turn all off reconnect battery - but I don't know how that goes on hybrids. Then if you've checked for the (admitted) service recalls and program updates and TSB then wouldn't it likely be wiring, connections, communication fault(s) or unadmitted service recalls and program updates and TSB. I'm annoyed about this on your behalf now. 🤣 Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. By the way I was not suggesting you should ignore all the stuff I listed just to bear in mind how they relate to the issue(s). Car computer programs are very complicated and interconnected so sometimes seem to throw up odd things (I am not suggesting the lambdas with door lock 😄). I have no idea about the wiring diagrams but the Owner's Manuals seem to have confusing and possibly wrong info sometimes and/or possibly variations based on what the model is and perhaps its sales region in the world. Could fuse 31 have been removed by a past seller of the vehicle to hide the shown higher fuel consumption, whether the higher fuel consumption was actual or just shown or to just save finding or sorting any problem if there is one. If you have tested both sensors was that with a multimeter and/or scanner and if they give the expected readings could they be working but be the wrong parts for your particular model or not factory fitted make and part, I have no idea how specific the requirement is on your model. The others here will be able to help you with all this I cannot I was just giving generalities. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I meant the idea of temporarily disconnecting to see if there are differences to help with diagnosis. I reconnected it on my wife's car and just turn it off (deactivate) at the button when wanted.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Just in case of 'others' please note my (second) ETA: of - ETA: obviously you'll want to secure the start/stop connector and its lead and protect male and female ends from dirt and debris. - and that I often use incorrect terminology.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'd give that VAG specialist a very wide berth if they condemned a new battery, new faulty batteries are very rare unless they have been very badly stored neglected and abused and even then you'd probably be able to fully recharge the battery with an appropriate battery charger and have it working well in the short term. As a a time served mechanic you know what utter boll**cks and with what contempt some in the motor trade give and treat their customers. You could check that the new battery has been coded in correctly to "Fleece", Ah entered correctly and a digit change to the battery serial number at least. If you are sure the new battery is coded correctly as you have a machine that gives those lovely graphics you could try disconnecting the start/stop at the battery and see if things improve, some drive for years with it disconnected at the battery and it done no harm when I tried. I have no proof but I would not have any device plugged into the diagnostics port all the time or for too long, and are you sure it's a VCDS that gives those graphic as the ones posted up here that I see are horrible 1990s style computer screen look, seen Torque screen shots posted here that look more like that. To physically disconnect with hand and fingers the start/stop on my wife's 2015 Fabia you just disconnect the wotsit off the battery negative connector, photos below (not from my wife's car so ignore any other minor issues). ETA: obviously you'll want to secure the start/stop connector and its lead and protect male and female ends from dirt and debris. If you want to learn about the battery/alternator charging with (and without) start/stop you can plough through the information from here. - https://procarmanuals.com/ssp/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Generally - do not put all your faith into the computer programs, warning lights and messages of the car or into one diagnostic tool like a scanner/code-reader. The car's programs have parameters which can mean you detect some problems with your human senses before they do, Sensors can wear/age and become inaccurate which will fool the car's computer programs. Then there are electrical and communication issues to consider. As you would with any information you get, cross reference sensor and diagnostic information with other sources of information (tools, your senses, published).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I think it possible that the battery that died (or was possibly killed) was an EFB but not necessity the factory original battery and you'd hope for £120 the new battery was an AGM but it could be an EFB - but all is assumption without more detail.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes the falling value of the Little Ingerlund Dollar. The list is also perhaps as useful for including what isn't fitted to the particular car.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I missed varoom's post as I was one-finger typing mine - so yes why not get your son to send you a photo for you to post up here for advice - but then sometimes it's worth £40 to save family hassles. 🙃

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Get a photo of the new battery fitted as I would take a "wet" battery to also mean an EFB battery too (but not an AGM battery). If it's a like for like battery change then up to you but many wouldn't bother about "coding" the new battery just taking driving the car enough will sort it. If changing type of battery or change in Ah (amp/amperes per hour capacity) then you'd want "recoding". Get a photo as £40 isn't bad if the chap is coming to you but you might get a better offer if you're able to go to him or someone else. Note much of the "coding" details is VW statistics of no importance now.