Former

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Have a look at the Owner's Manual for the car, on my wife's 2015 it's press the 'CAR' button at side of screen, then 'Selection' virtual button on screen to 'Driving data' and arrows to find 'Long term' driving data, after that I forget as I never use the information as it's too much of a guesstimate for me. Once you've discovered it's level of accuracy it might be useful as a loose comparison. As I'm old I just use the old fill to first click of pump, at the next refill fill to first click and note litres, divide by 4.546 for gallons, then divide gallons into distance for mpg. https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If it is a site issue Freedom membership might resolve that. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/subscriptions/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. 9 Euros seems very high, some places here sell it at £5, or even £6, a can but I have bought it for £2 a can or three cans for £10. PTFE and Teflon are the same thing, Teflon is the trademarked name for PTFE. - https://www.nes-ips.com/teflon-vs-ptfe/ GT85 (history) is owned and marketed by the WD-40 Company (brands), GT85 was started as a British company in the mid-80s but like so much was swallowed up by an American corporation, I have no idea if the WD-40 PTFE spray is exactly the same as the GT85 spray but as I used to successfully use GT85 on my pushbikes in the 1980s I returned to it when it returned to the shop shelves. Rather than having one can of WD-40 Multi-Use that does not do the jobs as well or several can of specialist sprays I use GT85. I am also using up gravity and spray can of PlusGas (penetrating/releasing agent) as I bought them before the GT85, PlusGas (history) again used to be a British company but is no more I am not sure if it is now effective as it used to be, but it might be, I have no old cans to compare and anyway GT85 does more jobs and smells nice.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You might very well think that; but I couldn't possibly comment.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Saw a modern MX-5 being driven Wednesday very late afternoon - and with the roof down! mind he was only in his mid-40s of age.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I didn't actually put that, it was part of the quote from lol-lol but as a total generalisation I do find the sort of people that own large models of those marques often tend to be less than the best of drivers and often arrogant but then all the other marques in that video had drivers that weren't the best drivers and some of them seemed to display arrogance perhaps. Course you can't put anything about the Aldi drivers as it might upset some VAG owners here. 😁 😉

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Where you would use the silicone spray and instead of WD-40 - sorry I've no idea what mechanism is used behind the heater control knob but you can spray GT85 to lubricate plastic against plastic or on cables (for electrics), etc.. Obviously you must first find out what is causing the knob to be difficult to operate otherwise just lubricating things may cause something to slip, jam or break. Do you not have a parts catalogue diagram and/or list of heater / heater control parts to give you some idea?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. They move among us. Some add a layer of stupidity to their mistake flustered after the event but others start with a thick layer of stupidity and perhaps arrogance. The bloke in the very old car paid for showing off as that should have made it across as far as I could make out. I preferred the (showing off) of the Landies. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wetdTsck_vo

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Or GT85 as it's more versatile for other uses on car and home. - https://gt85.co.uk/gt85-original/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. It's been charged up (not sure if fully) now and IIRC refitted to vehicle. I've seen where others have put some chargers won't bother with below 6v others below 3v, there are ways around this and use of other chargers, C-Tec being one manufacturer, they always seem a bit expensive to me but if with a lot of use they still last decades then they may still be good value. I've found some chargers don't like it when the weather is very cold or very hot which is why I bought the Ring RSC804 as it claims to operate down to -20c and up to 40c.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Coming from "classic" cars where some owners carry spares of all sorts just because they or someone they've read about once had an old part fail (or now new ****-poorly made cheap new part) they carry so many spares just in case. Some really need to tow a trailer for all they think they might need, mainly because they don't drive the car often enough to get it reliable or to know how to properly drive it. I believe in prevention over cure, I've had enough breakdowns and minor roadside repairs to last me three lifetimes. Running out of battery power is like running out of fuel it's avoidable - though I've run out of petrol a few times, but not since my wife refused to ever push a car again, despite me doing the steering! It may distress you as it did them when I put I'd not carried a spare wheel (jack, brace and kit) in many of my cars for decades, just a manual foot pump and reliable pressure gauge. 😁

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Bit of a tangent but as my interest is more in over-priced and over-valued old cars called "classics" I used to follow this American chap's YT channel as he liked small British and other cars, and different vehicles, to actually drive and not as show queens, though how he ever gets time to drive, and sometimes race, all in his collection is beyond me. Installing Ultra-capacitor and Onboard Battery Charger in Sunbeam Tiger (British two-seater with Ford V8 engines put in by manufacturer) -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. As with many parts and components just because they work and look OK doesn't mean that they're not well passed their optimum and well into not working as well as they could or should, putting more effort on other parts and components so additional load and wear on those or just lack of possible available performance - car doesn't go as well as it could or should. To many this doesn't matter and it's a matter of what is reasonable expected performance to balance with the type of vehicle and its use and cost benefits and balances to most people. Just a note, the precious metal(?) iridium and wotsit plugs (having trouble with my worms today) you're supposed to check the gaps with the round wire type feeler gauges rather than the traditional blade type. Obvious not so important on old plugs removed and not being used again.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Have you actually inspected and driven a 2017 Fabia 1.4 TDI 75 S Estate to see if it's the car for you and to see how much it varies from your 2006 1.9 TDI Estate? ETA: Also consider the DPF now, the type of driving and your driving style. "BCA Marketplace, formerly British Car Auctions, is a used vehicle marketplace. It was listed on the London Stock Exchange until it was acquired by TDR Capital in November 2019." - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BCA_Marketplace

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Another point to be aware of from a 2006 to 2017 car is the battery state of charge, the more modern the more computer programs to get their knickers in a twist as the computers can play up with a car battery in a low state of charge even if the engine starts and the lights seem bright enough. This could work to your advantage if warning lights and messages are showing only because the battery is in a low state of charge but many think as the car starts and the lights seem bright enough that it can't be the battery. Conversely if the vehicles have been sitting around for a while then just driven very short show and park distances you may need to recharge the battery before plugging your scanner in to clear any error codes to see what codes remain after recharging and driving.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Ken, the Mikalor clamps are it, bit DIY but if they've lasted 13 years obviously a simple solution, often used and good enough. A bush and base clamping plates and bolts might have been more 'engineered' but I've no idea of space available for fixing. - https://www.jabbasport.com/products/jabbasport-rear-arb-fabia-vrs

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. It looked to me that it might be the Mikalor Super Heavy Duty clamp but that only goes up to 80-85 (and W1 only). - https://mikalorcompany.com/hose-clamps-and-clips/high-pressure/super-heavy-duty-clamp Mikalor Supra might be an easier fit for the square shape than the Norma GBS but difficult to know until they're being fitted, Norma GBS I'd think would be stronger and longer lasting. Norma GBS datasheet pdf attached. I'd contact Jabba Sport and ask them what they last used or can suggest. - https://www.jabbasport.com/products/jabbasport-rear-arb-fabia-vrs NORMA-GBS-Datasheet-EN.pdf

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Those Mikalor are spot held where the hold can corrode and come apart, better maybe is the Norma GBS heavy duty W2 or W4 stainless steel with bent over locking ("Mechanically locked"). - https://www.normagroup.com/norma/en/products/norma-gbs/?open&ccm=020030 Just as an eBay UK seller example only (W2). - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324657985550

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I agree, despite knowing car batteries are often changed far too prematurely and how to look after them (takes very, very little effort) and how to use and not abuse (far too much effort or different priorities for some) I changed the battery on my wife's Fabia Mk3 far too prematurely as I didn't want any hassle from the car battery and how my wife wants to use and abuse the battery and not to be summoned to sort out a breakdown from "battery failure" and explain why I'd allowed this to happen as car work is my job not hers and I know that. Different people have different priorities, my wife and I certainly as regards any car battery use, there's also the recharging of a battery that's been flattened many don't have the time or patience, despite it being vey easy work, to properly and fully recharge the battery - and of course batteries don't last forever.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Be interesting to know how you get on. I've edited a previous post as I'm not sure swapping to AGM is always a good move as there are more real world swings and roundabouts than I'd previously considered but I could be wrong at any stage or in any direction as I've been many times before and will be many times again.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. After years of being 'borrowed' by his son-in-law my elderly neighbour got his battery charger returned today, 8 amps and switchable normal fast charge, I'd just refitted his car battery after recharging it again for him, this time with my new RSC 804 charger/maintainer. It was one of these -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Is this why the the bolt holding the securing foot / bar clamp was at an angle (or perhaps a different physical size replacement battery from factory original). I found Halfords have a different battery number than Tayna for two Kias and an old Merc I've put batteries back into. With the Merc not only was the number different but the Halford battery had a second layer of plastic clamping foot bar on it which my neighbour didn't want me to remove so I spent 20 minutes getting the clamp to just about fit and securing bolt at an angle. First of the two Kias I used some texted rubber strip held on by bluetac (which is extremely strong but easy to remove) to pad out the gap to stop battery movement, on the second someone had already used some square rubber tubing that was effective for the purpose. Both Kias were Picantos but three years apart both with Halfords batteries which I guess were replacement sizes for the original factory ones. (36ah 330 CCA! and last for many years.) Do you know why you only got 4 years out of your previous battery?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Up to you but if you can I really suggest you find the time and if you can do it tonight that will at least give the battery x-hours charge before tomorrow's use, whilst the battery needs to be fully recharged putting more in will help as Tesco tell us. Number one cause of breakdown call out outs is battery (charging) issues and the vast majority are self inflicted by the driver, Sod's Law the breakdown rarely happens on a pleasant sunny day with the car in the pub's (other favoured places available) car park. Don't be tempted to do a quick charge particularly with a bigger charger unless you intend to change the battery sooner than latter, follow the advice in the Owner's Manual, if you don't have the paper printed copy you can download a pdf copy from the following link using your VIN from your V5C paper or other papers or using model and year the car was made. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models If you read the (whole) Owner's Manual and refer to it as required in future you will know more about your car than many long term owners. That was my point, but possibly best dealt with as another thread, why was it low, for how long, how much below min, etc., etc.. I've no idea what is taught now to learner drivers for passing the test as mine was done 45 years ago but for car use, servicing and maintenance the priorities are brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres), safety electrics (lights, blower, horn, etc.), and glass areas (see and be seen). Modern cars rely on the battery for most of these items - even if you can't start and drive the car you might want the hazard and other lights to be working. (ETA: forgot photo/image)

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @benjman the 12v car battery is important to the car, if it is low but it still starts the car and the lights still seem to be bright the battery can still be low enough to cause all sorts computer / computer programs problems and your car battery is lower than that as it won't start the car. 11.9v is about 40% capacity, a new "12v" car battery fully will show 12.7v or more. Recharge your battery as low slow as you can, the battery only needs a 6 amp maximum charger but may take many hours to fully recharge and you do want it fully recharged. A higher quick charge won't be as good. Not fully recharging the battery will have you back with battery issues sooner. If your battery has the magic eye (green ball) take it with a pinch of salt, even if you tap the battery it might not give a true reading and it only relates to one of the 6 cells in your "12v" battery (6 x 2.1v = 12.6v). After charging my neighbour's (non-VW car) battery once the green ball disappeared to reappear after the next time I charged it, showed green yesterday with battery low at 12.2v (60% capacity), recharged the battery and after 17 hours of resting from being charged it showed 12.79v on my optimistic multimeter (the battery is 6 years old). Why was your low coolant warning bleeping? (If it wasn't because of low coolant then it might (or might not) be because the battery is low and messing with the sensor to computer/program.)

@Xhuy10nx have you tried resynchronising the windows as per the Owners Manual and fully recharged the battery rather than just a fast or quick charge or just driving the car to sort the battery.