Former

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I can't say for certain if that is wrong but other than for the benefit of VW's statistics I've not seen evidence that 'coding' is absolutely required if the replacement battery is the same type and ah but there seems to be a lot of people who say the computer programs will catch up with the change of battery requirements just by the car being driven. It may be in these circumstances that 'coding' will speed up any 'learning' or change for the computer programs to grasp and if you have the facilities, which the mobile fitted should have, then you might as well 'code' in the new battery - more than the factory fully bothered with on my wife's 2015 Fabia as it serial number was the same as many others have quoted of all 1s.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. It's your brakes. Most are very concerned to get the engine oil changed thinking the engine is more important than brakes (? !! ?). As with the other fluids (engine oil, gearbox oil, coolant) they may need changing a lot before or perhaps a bit (or lot?) after any schedules, you could do analysts but then you need to know how accurate the testing is and to remember regularly to do the testing. I'd sooner have the brake fluid in good condition than the engine oil (and I'd sooner the engine oil is in good condition). It's only because it's so cheap that the motor trade hasn't come up with something better than the brake fluid they use, cars have such ancient technologies. Same with tyres which are part of the braking system (and steering and suspension) some people seem a lot less concerned about them than the engine, or it's oil, you should always be more concerned about how well a vehicle stops than how well it goes (over than steering and suspension). My 1973 Driver's Handbook had to change the brake fluid every 18 months. Do whichever system you want for when to change the brake fluid but better sooner rather than later.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. True but what are the words to use in the Search, I was looking as you posted but have given up now as I just can't think of the magic words or phrasing to get to the threads I know I've seen. I find this with searches, sometimes I can find what I want other times not at all, even if I've posted so know it's there. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thanks for reporting back. Do bear in mind your new battery is still just a store (or like a bank account) you can still empty or over deplete it so if you still do short journeys you might want to consider buying an appropriate battery charger and maintainer and not to let the battery get so low for so long, £187 should jog your memory. Try not to let the battery get as low as the start/stop won't operate because that has already worn the battery more than you want, recharge the battery before this and definitely as soon as this happens, You could use an appropriate battery charge and maintainer to fully recharge the battery at the time you might fit and remove winter tyres and after very hot (or extreme) summer weather, so three times a year plus at any other times if required. If the battery hasn't been 'recoded' I'd suggest you get in as many reasonable length journeys as you can before driving to the Alps so that the car's computer(s) know there a different state of battery health and charge. Personally even though the battery is new I'd still charge it on an appropriate charger and maintainer just before starting my journey to the Alps to be sure I have the battery ready as it can be for any unexpected use or over-use and for the cold weather. Not only does the cold weather normally cause greater use of the battery even a new battery doesn't do as well in cold temperatures and the cold put more strain on starting the car. Good luck, see if you can get 5, 6 or 7+ years out of your new battery and no more concerns about start/stop being active (and the possibility of lots of other unexpected issues from having the car battery in too low state of charge even if the car still starts and the lights seem bright enough).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. PY21W - offset pins

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I actually remembered to test the horn with the ignition off whilst my wife went to pay for the petrol at a petrol station, the interior lights had gone out but the car was unlocked as I was in the passenger seat, the horn sounded. Thanks and good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry I didn't get a reasonable chance to test the horn on my wife's car with the ignition off, I'll try later just out of curiosity now and let you know. If you've got a good garage that you can trust you're ahead of the game. Plugging in a scan tool or error code reader just looking for error codes can often come up with no errors, as I put it's a diagnostics tool but not the only one, and not always the most appropriate one. An electrical problem like this is best approached as such but I'm sure an auto-electrician would also do a scan to see if anything else comes up in case it's related. Now you see why I put about not taking my terminology as gospel as I have a faithful troll that seems to hang on my every post without reading them properly or in context, that's without him sometimes being wrong, bi-directional scan tool is a term used by others not one I invented. 😁 Modern cars have lots of downsides, especially the VW computer programs, but this could just be a basic problem that would also be on a car from past decades. I'd be very interested to know how this is sorted as my wife has a 2015 Fabia but it's also good to have a solution for all others in the future. Cheers.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Shame, but at least you don't have the normal weak link of buying from somewhere that does the minimum to get the car sold and argues the toss about any remedial or warranty work. You might find a difference between VW and Honda quality but you seem the type to keep on top of things so that will help.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Just a quick thought, though I'm not sure it would explain the clicking, being used to old cars I've only just thought of this, I'll ask anyway, when you're trying the horn you have got the ignition turned on?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. No I'm not techy either, so don't take my terminology as gospel but just as to give you the idea of what I mean. You've probably seen and heard of these things you plug in for the cars computers to perhaps give out the error codes for issues on the car. Some are just basic scan tool error code readers, they show the error codes the car gives them. These scan tool error code readers should be used as a diagnostics tool to help find what is wrong, rather than as an absolute answer as many think they give (and sometimes it might be the answer). Going up a couple of levels from there are scan tools that not only give a lot more information but can also act on the car, say get a cooling fan to switch on or one headlight, etc., as part of a diagnostics or just to test an individual part is able to be activated. Getting a headlight bulb out can be half a day's (DIY at least) work on some cars so if it lights up it's not the bulb or direct connections at least at fault. You did put about the clicking in your opening post and I did question relay as possibility but Warrior193 has given you a better reply. Relays aren't listed in the Owner's Manual and I've never looked at them, you need the guys good on electrics here. One thing good, I have just checked for you and the fuse box in my wife's car has the same hole in the fuse box as yours, but the 15 amp fuse at F44 (Cigarette lighter, 12-volt power socket) below the hole is the darker blue same as the other two 15 amp fuses at F27 and F49 doesn't really mean anything other than perhaps that fuse has been changed.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Some people won't change anything until it falls apart even if it plays up or fails. Basics like servicing and maintenance have often been overlooked and for sorting issues especially now there's the sexy scan tools and perceived solutions at the push of a button. Problem is when timely changes are made to some items the difference isn't great or not noticeable at all as a preventative measure it's only when things have deteriorated enough to be noticeable that the replacement working properly seems work the effort to many. Until recently I had a very basic 49 year old BL car as a daily and just about all the basics that applied to that apply to the models here but convincing people with what they think of as modern (ICE, really 🤣 ) and sophisticated cars that the basics still need attending to and checking before moving on is difficult.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Good news and well done on and to Danderhall Cars. If they were round here they'd be swamped with work, you'd need to know someone that goes there to give you there space to get in. If Danderhall Cars deal in Skodas and need more work you could perhaps put a thread in the Scotland Dealership section as it's good to get recommendation from good work at good garages.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry I thought it was both. In that case, perhaps cheap plastic replacements at full previous cost of course, storage during that extreme weather, all a bit odd. Unless you try them on some else's car and try their wheel covers on your nuts if you'll pardon the expression. Watch what mastic/sealant you use, I used some on some plastic hub covers and then broken a couple of the plastic tangs getting them off at tyre change. I normally use bluetac on car bits (it's amazingly strong, you can lifts weights with it after it's set for a bout 6 months) and it's gone through a winter and a half on my neighbour's rear wiper blade and arm now so far, but it'd be no good for those covers as you'd probably have to chisel 'em off. I suppose you threw away the old covers, yeah I do that when Sod's Law applies.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Also, just remembered, if you read the Owner's Manual at start of ownership (or better still before buying) and refer to it when required then you will know more about your car than many long term owners. If you do not have the paper printed copy then you can download a pdf copy from the following link using your VIN or model and (part) year of build. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. First thing I'd do is check the state of charge on the battery and unless it was near enough full I would fully recharge the battery with an appropriate battery charger at as long, low and slow recharge as possible which may take many hours particularly if it is very cold where you are. You could be chasing error codes, and more of them, that might not be there with a charged battery. For the vent flap you could do a reset on with your scan tool perhaps(?) - or disconnect the battery - [ETA: - carefully bridge/join the positive and negative battery leads post clamps together to complete a circuit ] - turn the ignition on and press and hold the brake pedal down hard for a number of seconds and switch on the headlights and whatever you feel - none will work as the battery is disconnected but do not forget to turn everything off again, this might squeeze some of the computers to a part reset and if it doesn't it was free, easy and quick to try and you didn't get your hands (too) dirty nd sitting in relative protection of the cabin. Remember the scan tool is a diagnostic tool and not a magic pointer to what sensors to change (though it can be sometimes). Then do you know for certain of any service history and recent servicing, maintenance and repairs, if you do any then check it has really been done and properly and for the whole car not just the engine. An 8 or 10 minute drive is not great for any car, look at the oil temperature if available rather than coolant temperature gauge, you want the oil at 90+c. After making sure the brakes, steering and suspension (all three include tyres) are reasonably functioning, the important electrics are next (they need the battery in a good state of charge too) lights, wipers, blower, horn, etc.. On to simple stuff like changing the air filter (and cabin filter) if required. Things like changing the spark plugs I would leave until better weather unless you want to do it or they play up, then I would look cleaning the throttle at the same time and the MAF if not already done with the air filter. Engine oil & filter change would definitely wait until warmer weather for me and I would also consider a change of coolant and gearbox oil (depending on box). Other jobs and problems might present that take priority with use but often more regular use over reasonable distance journeys will help the car to run better - and possibly highlight next priority jobs or what can be lived or put up with until better weather. Do all your servicing, maintenance and repairs as much as possible in the better weather so the car runs well in the bad weather and you have little to do on it, prevention is better than cure. Good luck.

Dangerous! 😄 My thoughts, I don't know the Mk1 (or any really) but generally with rust things usually seem to expand and get tighter, as you bought a set of new genuine black plastic wheel nut covers then they should have been tight if anything going on first time, could they be stretched now because of this when removing and putting back on. Or are you sure you have the original or correct wheel nuts (bolts?) fitted to the wheels as the plastic covers usually seem to vacuum on and need the removal tool (or damaging pliers) to remove them in my experience.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Do you have access to a bi-directional scan tool, you could then plug in to test items and look at diagnostics.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry it wasn't really help, I'd be slightly more at home with the A40, but thread activity might attract those that know. Not so many venture out to the newer Fabia models. Zooming in on your photo image shows the 20 amp fuse would be above the marker for F7 (if it wasn't missing) I'd never see that when looking in the car, shows some technology can be very useful. It'd make it easier for me if all the fuses in the cars were facing the same direction, trying to remember the colours is too much for me, I wonder if the other VAG marques have them random pattern too. 🙂 I was just wondering about the 15 amp fuse at F44 (Cigarette lighter, 12-volt power socket) being different to 15 amp fuses at F27 and F49 and if it left the factory like that and if it has any relationship to the hole and missing marker and horn fuse F7 being directly above both - or just coincidence, previous owner or electrical items added or changed(?).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Are you young by any chance, if so look at the warning lights on the dash as they come on to test with ignition for too brief for old eyes and brain time and see if there is the symbol that lights up to test for windscreen washer fluid level. How much are you using? Perhaps the use of Rain-X or equivalent on the windscreen (and rear screen if required) and Rain-X silicone wipers might help. Unless you're emptying the washer bottle power-washing the headlights in which case you could perhaps manually clean them occasionally before or after a journey if required, or even mid-journey if it is a really long run. Good luck, let us know the outcome. 👍

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yeah that's not bad, I think the couple of times they were checked on my wife's car they were a bit more than that but not 10% as that would be more easily noticeable and memorable. I wonder if they get more accurate as less accurate as the car's systems ages. Just that some people seem to believe anything they see on a computer must be accurate, or the truth, but like much if you take it as a 'gauge' rather than these systems are always-spot-on' then as put it's near enough.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. How much do you use, are you sure it isn't slowly leaking out, why not make up a flexible dipstick to check the level and see how quickly it drops. Or you will just have to top it up a lot more regularly. Note, it is not normally a good idea to wait for any warning or rely on these warning as often they appear too late or could misfunction be proactive instead prevention is better than cure. If you find you do have a warning light then it might be malfunctioning.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. That's funny as I was originally thinking of U-bolts, but going the other way round as I didn't know the room or shape of crossmember, yours solves that, I then thought of sandwich plates and changed my mind. Even thought it's proven to work the bent circular clamps is an ugly quick solution to me.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Assuming the handbook lists the correct fuse location (it didn't for wipers on my wife's car) the clicking might be a relay(?), did you check the fuse visually or by testing or swapping out with a known good 20 amp fuse, as I once had an intermittent fuse I do double or triple checks. You could try pressing the horn button locations harder repeatedly to see if that does anything like friction clean the connections there, I've no idea where the actual horn(s) are on the car and if you could do a test straight off a 12v battery test same as you could on the A40. I'm not sure these electrics will be around and working 5 or 6 decades later like some of the Lucas stuff. Hopefully someone will be along with a wiring diagram to confirm fuse number and give info on feed run.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You might want to do the odd spot check from first click refills to see how accurate the car's fuel consumption figures might be. With my wife's car it's a bit optimistic on the few times we've compared but I've seen some others put up figures that seem very optimistic to me. It's always been that some people have some very loose (to illogical) ideas of how to calculate fuel consumption. If you read the Owner's Manual and refer to it when required you will know more about your car than many long term owners. The only other thing I know is that you want to prevent the car's battery state of charge from getting low otherwise you can get all sorts of unexpected issues from the computer programs even if the car still starts and the lights seem bright enough and even if you don't get warning messages or lights. Some short video of useful stuff you might already know but I admit I'd forgotten about a couple of them. - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHH-B9onXpOqdKjFA815CBd7YB4hocem5 Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi, welcome. I find lots of different noises from the engine bay on different days and different times, I think it's the various computer programs during their thing for the various circumstances, weather, engine warm/hot/cold, what electric is on. Check your battery's state of charge, about two hours after after the car has been parked up, and see what it is. If 12.3v or below fully recharge using an appropriate battery changer/maintainer (just driving around often isn't enough). Try for a full recharge done as long, low and slow as possibly which might take an evening and overnight (or more). Just because the car starts and the lights seem bright enough and you have no warning messages or symbols doesn't mean that your battery is not in a lower state of charge. Alternator and battery are related of course, low battery and the alternator is working more. If your car has had the full servicing schedule done (at least) for a 6/7 year old car then you have some reassurance, if not then it just might need servicing (properly). You could plug in a scan tool to see if any error codes are present (you can get a few just from battery being in a low state of charge). Let us know how you get on.