Former

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry I certainly didn't want to imply I didn't believe you and really I should have thought that many would get their car battery very low before changing or for some realising how low the battery has got. Ties in with my warnings about the computers possibly playing up and giving, or not giving warnings even though the battery starts the car and the lights still seeming bright enough, possibly before this point though. Again this is why I favour using a battery charger to fully charge the battery as much as possible and preferably before the battery gets too low and certainly before it gets beyond rescue or convenient change rather than breakdowns and forced changed (appropriate or not). I now favour, after battery disconnect, turn the ignition on and press and hold down brake pedal as I always think computers need a bloody good booting and can actually benefit from it on many occasions. 😁 Sorry, I meant, a turn off 'n' on agen, not violence of any sort, tempting though it might be towards computers for some of us. The computer programs be intertwined (for the sake of a description) will have one thing leading on to another when the computers pick up something, or think they have sometimes so I'm totally with you and certainly agree that it's best to clear all error codes, at every opportunity, if its serious, real, it'll return soon enough anyway. I think we generally sign off the same song sheet but your voice is much sweeter, refined and sophisticated than mine. One thing I didn't quite follow, did you mean drive 100 miles or metres? Cheers.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. ETA: posted too late for varooom, I'm too slow, but the photo for others. In portrait, you naughty, naughty boy. 😄 In landscape you get more info because it would also show the the other battery terminal post and fittings that can sometimes give additional information - but should be required here

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. That looks like our old favourite Varta E39 Silver Dynamic AGM 570 901 076 (096 AGM) (why the motor trade has to have so many different codes for the same item is beyond me). - (I realise you are in France link is for info and more part numbers, pdf in link and attached). - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/e39/ ETA: Vatra link. -https://www.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/products/varta-silver-dynamic-agm/570-901-076 Note it's rate at 70ah, what odds that make to 68ah and the over-complicated VW computer program varooom would know better than I (varoom I will reply to your post after "dinner"). E39-Varta.pdf

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @unionfan, @stevo 1, look at your Owner's Manuals for information on what might need resetting when a battery is disconnected and reconnected or changed as it's usually a lot less than many think and even not all of the items listed may need to be reset. I don't know how low the battery would have to be to have varooom's Xmas illuminations and need to turn the steering full lock both ways but if there are a lot of warning lights and messages then turn the steering full lock each way costs nothing, is easy, no dirty hands and can be done from the comfort of inside the car so I would do it at the slightest flicker of a warning light or message. Many can extend the life of the car battery and save hassles the car's computer can give from having the battery in low charge by the appropriate use of a suitable battery charger as sometimes just driving the car will not sufficiently charge the battery.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Depending on what you mean I don't think you'd lose changes but varooom and others would know better than me. ETA: Just seen varooom had already covered that, which reminds me, you can get about £7 or £8 back on an EFB battery at a scrappy. The AGM batteries can arrive with 12.4v and a tick for that's fine. I'm with varoom to leave at least 2-3 hours or best overnight before taking a voltage reading and bear in mind unless you have an expensive multimeter the reading may be near enough but not necessary spot on. I took my optimistic multimeter (which he had bought me) over to a friend's and compared it with the two he'd had for a while and a new one he bought as the first two gave different readings to each other, we tested all four on two different car batteries, the new meter he bought was furthest from the other three which gave different but close readings to each other.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thanks, call it 15hp, at 2,700rpm, more hp than I was expecting, how this relates to a constant 10% incline would be dependant on how long in road distance the car was kept in 5th.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Unfortunately it sounds like you got the battery charger a bit late. Following the car's Owner's Manual and battery charger instructions are needed to get the best from the recharging. Presumably the Bosch charger has a regeneration mode, winter and maintenance settings, hopefully you will not need the regeneration mode with your new battery use and the experience you have now. Just out of my interest which model Bosch charger have you got, if you want to say? Warrior193 makes a good point that a new battery might not arrive to you fully charged so do check its state of charge is enough before fitting to your car. Personally I would not be surprised if putting the new battery in good state of charge on the car allows the use of stop/start during or after the first reasonable length and use of the car, but I am often wrong. After the test I would get all error codes cleared just in case they might confuse the VW computer programs, you might find there are more than expected from having the battery in a low state for so long, or I could again be wrong. Good luck.

I was thinking of the same car you did the mathematics for in your previous post, I don't know the revs thought you might, but 56mph (90kph), tyre the same so stick with 28cm radius. Cheers.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Be great if you could report back, thanks. I would think this might be the case and it would also depend on how long and and how fast the recharge was, as far as I know if the discharge is low long and slow then the recharge is best at long and slow and generally best done that way. A fully recharged old battery will not be the same as a fully recharged new battery, they wear so even if you done a very long low, reconditioning charge off a smart charger it can only do so much. Many leave it too later to recover a battery that been used and abused which is why I try to promote prevention rather than cure, recharge the battery before it gets too low. The extreme weather this summer in the UK will have hastened the end for many batteries here, those that have not already been recharged or changed will be need one or the other as the cold weather really starts soon, I bet even more car batteries than usual will be replaced this season, some before they should have been and some as usual unnecessarily as a good (over) sale item.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @musa800 10m, I would suggest you get nearer, a lot nearer, to the car to lock it and unlock it, I have no proof but feel it would wear the battery more from a distance, certainly if there is interference in the area, the greater the distance the greater the chance of interfere. I would imagine that the alarms systems did at least vary over the years but again do not know. I am surprised that a 2016 car still has a spare key (blade) only and not two remotes as with my wife's but car manufacturers work to decimal places of pennies / cents with costings. From 2016 Rapid Owner's Manual for yourself and other viewers.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. To me a perfect fit with VW's computer programs. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I don't think you need worry about two decimal places to the power figures. 😄 It was more than I was expecting but I was thinking of whatever the revs are for 56mph in 5th (on the flat) - so @Thefeliciahacker what would the power figure be for that please as you now have the other figures? I've got a spread sheet for rpm to wheel/tyres and gearing (no idea if it includes 3% for rolling circumference) but I've no idea of the car's gearing and would mess up your figures anyway (other than tyre size).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @chimaera On my wife's 2015 Fabia (from the VW confusingly called 'Operating Instructions') Owner's Manual / Driver's Handbook.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. (I was still typing as you posted.) You may well be right as I don't know the OP's model but using the keyblade on my wife's 2015 Fabia set the alarm off for her and when I tried later with the keyblade. Now originally we may both have initially set the alarm off by turning the keyblade in the wrong direction by habit, I don't know as I quickly had to stop it as it was at night and obviously now is too early in the morning to try again going the correct way (if I remembered the correct way as its arse-about-face to my mind). I'll try later if I remember.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi, welcome, no problem but you have posted in the wrong forum, and less likely to be seen here by the general site population. You don't say what model you have but as my wife done exactly the same the other day all is fresh in my mind. Yes the alarm sounds and is noisy if you open the car with the keyblade (ETA: well it did for us and the same on a neighbour's car that only has a spare keyblade) but if you quickly put the keyblade in the ignition and turn it on your ears will thank you as will others around. The keyblade should open the door - unless your model operates different to my wife's but you may have been turning the keyblade in the wrong direction, VW go the opposite way to what I'd expect. Up to you if you carry a spare fob battery and small Xmas cracker screwdriver but it would be best to change the battery before it gets too low and to use the fob when you are near the car rather than a long way off (as I used to have to remind my wife). On my wife's fob there is a little red light on it so you can see if the fob is at least transmitting. Are you sure its a CR2025 (20mm wide by 2.5mm deep), I think that's what I put in my wife's fob. As far as I know the spare key without remote does not turn on or off the alarm, I can't remember if the alarms can be disabled (other than turning off interior (and tilt for towing?) For better answers than Google and me consult your Owner's Manual, read it and you will know a lot more about your car and its functions and odd VW ideas. If you don't have the paper printed copy or if you prefer you can usually download a pdf copy from the following link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Do check in the Owner's Manual if the fob needs synchronising after replacing the fob battery (yours may not but I do not know, best to check). You are best posting in the forum for your model (and mark or year) but if you say what you have got I or others can direct you (I am just an ordinary poster) or you can find it for yourself, I'm guessing you have an older model but I might be wrong. A good tip for you from me is not to let your car battery too low in charge, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough your car battery could still be too low and need charging and depending on your use just driving the car may not be sufficient to properly recharge the battery particularly this time of year. Good luck.

🤣 No, no, far from it. Best to just say I prewarn for a reason too boring to go into - but It'd be a total waste of money suing me. 🤣 🤣 🤣

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Unless you go on a rolling road you won't actually know where and what power is at what speeds on your car. Which 10% UK road do you mean I might have been up it but roads like that I prefer to be unclassified and often they're single-track.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Bear in mind the engine probably won't be the only thing worn and less efficient than new on a 29 year old car. Obviously there are other considerations to this, tyres all at correct pressure, whole car (not just engine) fully service/maintained/ repaired, brakes and exhaust free, any unnecessary load (spares and heavy tools carried "just in case" and never used), empty roof boxes carried, empty bike racks, etc., etc.. How long the 10% climb is, wind direction, ect., etc.. I don't know the gearing of your car but wonder why you are approaching and climbing a 10% in 5th gear if you are likely to have a lorry or van behind you. Obviously you can go at whatever legal reasonable speed you want but you're helping to keep the bad stereotype of the old Skoda badged cars (I had 3 Estelle's in the 80s so know all about that). I would wondered f you're leaving your gear changing too late to maintain momentum on the inclines, that's what the gearbox is there for. On a flat road once you have got up to reasonable speed it takes a surprising low hp figure to maintain that speed if the vehicle is in reasonable condition, I'll leave it to @Thefeliciahacker to do the maths (with an S) and come up with a figure.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Again the Owner's Manual should be consulted as to what you might loose, VW's programs are complex but they're like say a Merc where you might loose more than you can be arsed resetting or not got the codes on old 'radios'. When I disconnected the battery on my wife's 2015 Fabia despite the book giving a list of four possible items it was only the time-of-day clock that needed resetting, I know some think as they have a 'top of the range' it'll have more important memory settings that can be lost but often they don't, consult the 'Owner's Manual' (personally I think it's a good not bad thing to take power away from the VW computers). From the 2017/11 'Owner's Manual'. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. IIRC generally if you order before 6.30pm you get it the next day. ETA: Don't forget to read the Owners Manual before changing the battery to see what's required and what might need resetting on the car from disconnecting the battery.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Good points. 👍 My bad wording, I'll edit it, I'd expect/hope the 'Owner's Manual' or charger instructions would be consulted to check and confirm the charging requirements.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you had used a battery charger for the battery when that first started, or better still before that, and not let the battery get so low again you may well have got another couple of years or more out of the battery. From the 2017/11'Owner's Manual'. - I get the **** taken out of me on here for putting that the battery could be too low even if you can start the car and the lights seem bright enough and that a long low slow charge is generally better than a quicker higher faster recharge and just driving the car is often not enough to recharge the battery sufficiently and may even be discharging it more. Rule of thumb is if the battery has been run down slowly over time then the recharge should be as slow as possible and practical, if it was a fast discharge with something like leaving your headlights on when parked then a quicker charge might be OK.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Exactly the type of car use where the use of your C-Tek, or any other suitable battery charger, would help extend the life of the battery and avoid it going a bit too low so that despite the vehicle starting and the lights seeming bright enough the computer programs start to play up and may give all sorts of unexpected issues and perhaps warnings. You've been lucky to have the change before the cold weather. The very hot and extreme weather we had this summer wasn't good for the batteries (or charging systems) and will be reflected in an increase in the already seasonal increase in vehicle breakdowns and call outs and battery sales (many of them not strictly necessary). But you should be well sorted now with a new AGM battery and a battery charger to hand for future use when needed but only when needed as a preventative measure and not too often AGMs are fine at 12..4v). Like me you can lend your charger out to neighbours who have left things too long with their batteries or just made a mistake of leaving something electric running. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. No worries I only knew because I still have four fingers and thumb on my hand hand to count with. 😄 With the year I take it as year of manufacture, this MY stuff confuses the issue, just marketing or if selling. Even if it was 6 years I think that is a poor and shows the factory batteries were at low cost to purpose. The later cars I can see owners (unnecessarily often) changing at about 3 years but at least the later cars have suggestions about using a battery charger where required but that does require reading the Owner's Manual which is against the law for Billy-big-*******s men.

I wouldn't worry about the 3mm as dimensions are overall and it's more important to have the correct fitting 'base hold-down' (plastic foot bar) that the clamping clip goes on to. 6 years old, so it's not for your "Model: Superb SE L Executive Year: 2018"?