Former

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything Could that just be a typo error (or prefilled format), have they actually said that is what was put into your engine. @toot is 0w-16 used over here, my wife's 2015 car is the latest car we have, and are probably ever likely to have so I know even less about moderns than I do my previous car.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Cross referenced (hopefully) conformation from Ring Automotive Ltd, something for the bedroom wall. - https://www.ringautomotive.com/files/mydocs/Other_Catalogues/12V_Wallchart.pdf 12V_Wallchart.pdf

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Let's go "old skool" as the middle-aged say, illustration below from the 2008 Lucas bulb catalogue, not amber but that doesn't matter to dimensions and illustration, a 501 bulb. Note there is a 501A bulb too I don't know what the difference is there but it looks like ETA: 501 is clear, 501A is amber Modern - WY5W is amber and WR5W is red, see attached pdf but don't expect all sellers to follow this colour code. R37r8_W5W.pdf

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Are these what you want? UK eBay seller and item as an example only (and I've never seen stuff on Amazon at "lowest prices"). - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195217718294

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Richard, are you doing the engine oil & filter changes yourself? Are you doing the servicing yourself?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I wasn't thinking of taking anything apart, hence my comment about your photos, just driver/owners type maintenance / cleaning stuff. I didn't think of the door being the issue but it could well be, door speaker leaks I've heard of before in other cars, I was thinking of depending on the type of sunroof, drain off that and the drainage in front of windscreen scuttle area where things like tree and garden detritus can sometimes build up quickly and block drainage channels. None of these are probably your problem but even a non-technical non-mechanical person like me has been able to sort these easy type of issues, for leaks on static vehicle only a matter of remembering how gravity works and that where the leak appears might be away from where it starts. I'm sure the garage and lease company would object for various reasons but with the carpet that wet I'd want at least that section cut out so less water is held and it can vacuumed, sponged or clothed out regularly to stop accumulation and reduce the effects of damp. If you could lift the carpet you might find not only does it hold a lot of water but there's a lot of water beneath it. With carpet cut out (or removed) an over mat can be still be secured if required, a rubber over mat should be heavy enough not to float in use in shallow water. Over mats can easily be removed for drying and cleaning where required and need not be there laying or soaking up the water when the car isn't used. Wrong time of year for a suitable heater and suitable dehumidifier to be used in the cabin. As I put I'd play up the health bit to get something at least started and I'd check how much responsibility the lease company has in this, I've never leased so don't know what the contracts are about ownership and responsibilities. Unfortunately companies now Skoda / Dealership / Lease company tend to give more attention to those who shout the loudest and are most persistent. If you can find anything in the contract often you can get them to "escalate" the issue within the organisation. Best of luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. By coincidence I was just looking at this for someone else, (Ring Water Ingress Detection Dye). - https://www.ringautomotive.com/en/product/RLD3 You might have already done this but have you checked that all drainage points aren't blocked or not connected (sunroof?, scuttle area?, sills?) . I have no idea about your model but have dealt with a few cars with leaks and a few have been blocked drainage points and my wife's previous car didn't have a drain tube/hose put back properly coming back from the Dealership's bodyshop after a hit 'n' run accident repair. Again I don't know your car but with other cars I've found the old style soundproofing matting can hold gallons and take a bit of effort and days to fully dry, also some carpeting holds a lot of water under it before wicking through. Fabias have a larger cabin for the size of the car, IIRC largest in its class when my wife bought her 2015 Fabia. If you have not already done so I would try sending the photos of the water on the carpeting and remove the other photos from here and mention that mold isn't good for you (as per the very sad recent national news).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. My wife's 2015 hatch has a bit of a 'clunk' over humps and down potholes, annoying and hasn't been located. If yours is on acceleration and deceleration that is a stage further perhaps, or a clunk from elsewhere to the one on my wife's car. If you are worried about it I would record it on video or audio and ask about it at a garage. I find as a passenger (or driver) I heard different noises that come from the engine bay at different times, I guess it's all the over-complicated computer programs doing their various interventions and after 5 years I've stopped hearing them and trying to guess what the noises might be and if they should sound as they do.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. What's the tension like on the drive belt and tensioner, if too tight it could play up the bearing in the water pump, new or not. ETA: In four years since you fitted it lots could happen and with the quality of some modern made parts the tensioner could be faulty. Water pumps can whine, and alternator, something I have tried before is to spray (GT85 would be my choice now) the drive shafts on the water pump (this will not stop the pump bearing grinding) but if the noise changes there's a clue, I had a noise stop by doing this on my car and same for a mate, if it was crud/grit/**** washed away I've no idea but the noises didn't return - this might not be the case for you but it might help with locating. Then try the same trick on the alternator fan drive shaft and tensioner roller drive depending on type, anything that might spin on crud/grit/****, you're not supposed to get it on the drive belt or belt drive surfaces. If you're sure the whine is from the gearbox is it easy to drop out a little oil to see it's colour and consistency and see, feel, if there are any bits are in it. That's me out of ideas.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Well time will tell - but - I am with MicMac as a big fan of the battery disconnect and 'discharge', I favour press and hold brake pedal with ignition on so that the brake lights would light if the battery was not disconnected, as this is a quick, easy and free thing to try and can work well particularly on older cars. However some on here at the very least deride this idea, as you have seen, and my personal troll seems to get actually angry, so as to not bog the thread down with the usual 'debate' against me and that idea and as MicMac had already put it I left it. I did not put a 'Like' against his post so as not to draw my personal troll towards MicMac, but he still got derided so I might as well now. 😄 The battery disconnect and 'discharge' often is not necessary if you have a scan tool but the old turn-it-off-and-on-again often sorts out all sorts of computers and their brain-farts and these, VW particularly, car computer programs are very complex, over-complicated, intertwined and over-intrusive so who knows what small unrelated issue effects what else. While the battery was disconnected I am also a big believer in fully charging the battery (as appropriate to car) particularly with these VW computer programs as all sorts of unexpected warnings, error codes and issues can come from the car battery being low even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough. I did wonder about how you were doing the battery changes, always follow the routine in the Owner's Manual. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Car battery recharging (often rather than premature replacement) is a hobbyhorse of mine and my personal troll thought I was making out I was some sort of expert and was too authoritative in my posts (generally) hence my post prescript (and signature note if you can see that) as I never intended to give the impression I was any sort of expert in anything. If you read all that sorry but sometimes it is good to clear your chest and no animals were harmed in the making of this post. 🤣 Be good to see if you report back everything is still fine after a week of use. Driving can also help with clearing some issues (not say so with this). Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The following relates to when the warning has come on but gives an idea of the type of, not necessarily exactly same, driving style needed before and to prevent the warning light. Obviously it goes a bit against the advice in the same book about economical driving, going at 50 mph at 3,000-5,000 rpm for up to half an hour, this is not how many are used to driving particularly "small" cars or "small" engines. From the digital Owner's Manual, issue date of 14.6.2021. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. hetty1, yep, well done. 👍 For the car, do not rely on waiting for any warnings from the car's computers, prevention is better than cure, often by the time you get these it's just a historical report, use your experience, intelligence and senses. My wife's 2015 Fabia has been late putting up warning messages, and also put up an erroneous message, but as we are used to cars from the 1960s and '70s we're used to not relying on car computers and thinking there are buttons on the dash to clear all car and driving problems. You are driving the car so if you want or need to brake then do so, and changing down a gear will mean the 1,500 revs will drop the road speed if you don't touch the accelerator, you can also be braking. The car's systems require the type of driving that has always been required at times with how some cars were used but now the effects demand more attention. Cars that were always pootled around and/or always run on relatively short distances needed blow-out (Italian tune-ups) runs but just clogged themselves up quietly until hopefully some release at servicing, with accumulative effects over the years. Plus the driving style for fuel economy (and emissions) was encouraged and pushed. What you have to bear in mind is that the car engine is very ancient technology and even throwing electronics and computer programs at it only advances it so much from its beginnings and the advances on mpg and emissions have been stretched so thin that more gains come with so much complexity as they have for a good number of years already. The cars are also bigger and heavier with wide wheels and tyres so putting more burden on getting further gains.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @hetty1 , I hope this might help for future posts, it can sometimes help to have the model details shown in the bit on the l/h/s of each post, I’ve no idea what that bit is called, it’s the bit with your posting 'name'. I don’t think this info is shown on all devices to all viewers but you only have to enter the info once (and change as required) so worth the effort I think. The following helped another poster get the details on display. – click on your 'name', very top right of this page on the drop menu that appears click on 'Profile' click on the black box 'Edit Profile' scroll down to 'Car Info' enter details click on green box 'Save'. This might save you having to repeat some information and tell some the details without having to ask or be referring to a different something not with your car.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yeah, difficult to apply the normal logic to this as you are fighting against VW computer programing and PO (previous owners) wiring and probably the later is the worse for you but (to me) it is best still to start again at the beginning and go through step by step. At least now you have more info on what is on your car and the wiring diagram so you may be able to see how much it varies from factory set up. With electrics if something is intermittent you can think of poor wiring or connections or faulty item by the computer programs add another layer of complexity - or anger and misery as I see it. 😁 Keep your chin up old boy, toodle pip, until the next installment.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Have you put your OBDEleven on again (which "all modules are unresponsive again")? Once things are back can you check how good your good battery is with the OBDEleven too?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @TSiTorque just remembered what I forgot to put - do you know for certain they've used 0w-20, have they told you this or is it what is written on the invoice?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. No, well Dealerships didn't write the Owner's Manuals. Must admit I forgot. Toot, I meant there is a VW 502 00 spec 0w-30 oil available and I didn't really expect VW/Skoda Dealership would be using it or getting a deal on it, just trying to stretch to the 0w-20. I'm sure every VW/Skoda UK Dealership always uses the finest oils they can get their hands on. 😊

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @TSiTorque I can see a 0w-30, 502 00 but it's a good oil so more expensive than I would expect a VW/Skoda garage to be using unless they got some kind of deal to clear stock from the blender or supplier, I don't know if VW Porker Dealerships might use it, I doubt it. There's a 0w-40 but not by a blender I'd guess is used over here by the Dealers but I could be wrong I often am. There more to the oil change than even just the oil specification or it viscosity weight range but if you are leaving it to a garage they control the oil and other factors, you can keep the frequency/regularity of the changes though.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Well it does but then again not fully, the "German engineering excellence" is rather restrained in the Owner's Manual, as well as on the cars, yes it's VW 504 00 for fixed servicing, this is from my wife's 2015 book (p153). - And in keeping with VWs or warning messages. - Possibly TSiTorque is like me more used to Driver's Handbooks that give more comprehensive information.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Surely there are some nearer European companies that supply Greece. I cannot remember if Millers Oils is out that way or not, good UK/British/English oil blender.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Good new, progress. If it's a battery you already have then do remember to check and fully charge it as required, a good number of times I've been told "it's a good battery" and "it's charged" and they weren't. It might be best posted elsewhere but I have 'Report'(ed) your post so that a moderator sees it.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I expect you have already done so but also for the sake of future readers, have you used a bi-directional scan tool to see if the locks activate individually and perhaps narrow down any issues in the communications and see if there are any other stored or historical codes that might give a clue to past happenings?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Fair enough. A lot of the 70 and 80 year-olds like Valvoline oil in their engines at least, which is a bit disappointing with the UK owners that they don't use a more local and UK oil blender instead of an American one when the UK products are as good or better - same for you, is there not a more local oil blender you could use.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @dcd well done, it's on view. I don't think it shows on phones or mobile devices perhaps but I don't know as I avoid such things as much as possible, I was fed up with mobile phones 35+ years ago and they seem to have returned to be as intermittent in use, plus now the batteries don't last and you can't see the screens in daylight. Do have a look on here to see if there's any info on the work and I've seen info on taking dashs apart for various models, for the Mk1 the 'Hatboy Harvey'(?) videos look very good not notice so many posted for Mk2s but I might have missed them. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You're laughing with that, lucky to have such a *professional install, bare wires terminated too you lucky lucky . . . * professional bricklayer