Former

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. No problem you're already well passed the very basic steps that I know (and copied) by there's a few of posters on here very good with electrics/electronics/VW programs. I can help with getting the info to the l/h/s wotsit - click on your 'name', very top right of this page on the drop menu that appears click on 'Profile' click on the black box 'Edit Profile' scroll down to 'Car Info' enter details click on green box 'Save'. (Had to go through the steps myself to check though.) You can also do a Search on here for info - from this page and on the drop menu 'SEARCH IN' tick the 'This Forum' option (rather than 'Everywhere') to limit the search to Fabia Mk2 rather other models. You probably already know that VW, and other German marques, particularly like over-complicated computer programs and the VW computers at least will make you suffer if the car battery gets below a level of charge and throw up perhaps all sorts of unexpected warning lights, messages and codes. VAG plastics are plastics Skoda or Bentley probably need handling with a bit of care at 12 years old and settled, you probably have access to those fancy trim tools I just have old spatulas my wife passes on to me - some of them Tupperware so very expensive old plastic. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Duncan, hi, welcome. You may already be beyond these points or they may not be relevant but as a lot of car servicing, maintenance often (but not always obviously) boils down to cleaning and lubricating. *Does your car have the interior temperature sensor input grilles at the side of the heater controls, if so, start by cleaning that with a small brush and/or a keyboard vacuum. *The other possibility that springs to mind is the exterior temperature sensor; easily checked if you have a trip computer and/or Climatronic. And of course plugging in a suitable scan tool to see what it shows. * Ideas taken from a KenONeill post in the Fabia 1 section. For future posts it can sometimes help to have more model/engine/transmission information as shown in the bit on the l/h/s of each post (no idea what it's called the bit with your posting 'name'.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything Well you will still be OK because like the misbelieving old chaps in their 70s and 80s that own and drive cars from the 1950s today you have the option of using full synthetic GL-4 oils, a lot of them use an appropriate Redline oil as others recommend it to them as they get very good results from its use but there are other good GL-4 full synthetic oils around.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. We have been through this before the modern formula GL-5 gear oils are fine, if it is a very old formula GL-5 (going back about 20+ years as I recall) then no - BUT - a modern formula GL-5 will not do any harm short, medium or long term. You can also decide what weight range you want 75W90, 75W80 or even 80(?)W90 but just as an example - MOTUL MOTYLGEAR 75W-90 - "Suitable for any type of seal and yellow material used in gearboxes design." - https://azupim01.motul.com/media/motulData/DO/base/MOTYLGEAR_75W-90_en_FR_motul_45000_20220616.pdf MOTYLGEAR_75W-90_en_FR_motul_45000_20220616.pdf You two are more misbelieving than the old chaps in their 70s and 80s that own and drive cars from the 1950s today, at least many of them are convinced to use proper (rather than just marketing term) full synthetic oils in their 1950s gearboxes. For many years I put GL-5 gearbox oil in my early 1980s gearbox in my 1973 car - no problems at all and sometimes it was driven in a spirited fashion.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. AFAIK by the law of averages it's very likely. Never thought of aftermarket alarm, I'm more used to cars without alarms.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you mean the V5C "log book" 'Registered keeper' they don't AFAIK, by 2011 the vehicle information should be pretty correct as that what the "road tax" is based on. Cars , their engines, platforms, transmission all have different names and codes used by different groups just to make things more difficult when looking up parts and other info. If you don't have the original factory info IIRC there's a paper label stuck on the wheel well in the boot that gives details or if you put the car's registration (number plate) into some parts suppliers, like Opie Oils as just one example, that should give you info too - but as with any info double and treble check it with at least two other (hopefully) reliable sources. You'll get on well with the VW over-complicated computers then and love the nerdy legacy VCDS diagnostics. Until very recently for 20+ years I was using cars from the 60s and 70s as my daily and other transport. The Germans marques for whatever reasons only had one reversing light but two lenses even the more expensive stuff. I was out in my neighbour's 1991 Merc today that only has one reversing light - and boy did the bonnet line seem low especially as the seats are higher than I was used to and I'm used to low cars. Even my 1969 British/English car had two reversing lights and that didn't even have an interior light let alone boot light, or hazards, or cigarette lighter, or mono radio, or . . . 😄 Only real advice I can give is have a good look at that Owner's Manual and refer to it before doing stuff and keep your car battery in a good state, especially charge as the computers and their programs are very needed and can throw up all sorts of unexpected issues if the car battery gets low even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough. If you're a pro-pensioner you wont need to tinker with your car as you'll have a new car and change it every few years and before the warranty is out. 😉 😄 Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Only recently I sold my 1973 car after 30+ years of using "classics" (over-priced, over-valued cars) so I'm used to more detailed and straight forward Driver's Handbooks. I l-o-a-t-h-e-d doing anything other than driving my cars but I had so many bad experiences with people in the motor trade that even an idiot like I could sometimes do a better job and I have next to no mechanical aptitude and not the best attitude towards doing the work. Unfortunately things don't seem to be getting better with, some of, the people in the motor trade and with the modern cars. I just took it from the Owner's Manual ! 😄 I check but basically it's the same for my wife's model. With my wife's previous car, a new GM (Vauxhall) unfortunately, with folding tin-top I found other owners were paying Dealerships and auto-electricians for very simple problems with the folding hood and remote keys that could very often be solved by reading the Owner's Manual and following the remote fob synchronisation, for hood as well because that relied on the windows being in sync, and getting the hood back in sync. It was a 2008 GM Vauxhall so not the over-complicated VW computer programs (and just pre-Dieselgate cheating) but with the roof the battery "soft reset" might also be needed or useful. Even now some think there's more to changing, or charging, the car's battery than often there is, certainly with the Skoda model Owner's Manuals I've looked at so far, old or new higher level Mercs or BMWs are a different matter perhaps. With cars I have learn to discount nothing until you've treble checked it's not that but I think it might just be a coincidence, I could well be wrong of course as I often am.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Fair enough.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The manuals for these cars I think seem to be often written by a Germain engineering student that then has them translated to Chinese and from Chinese to English, then possibly Swedish(?). I also found the diagram for the fuses in the Owner's Manual to be wrong for my wife's car - more German engineering excellence. 🤣 To be fair where trendy fashion items of the time, like headlights, were fitted that needed more doing they do say it's not DIY (I have no idea how much it is or is not, some bits on modern cars (2007 is modern to me) need the car dissembling and/or fancy bit of kit to sort out. Remember when those marvellous self-levelling headlights first came out and blinded you as they approached or made you dip the rearview mirror to avoid a seizure, "why does the car behind keep flashing us". 🤣 Again sorry about missing your post and making a fool of myself, but every cloud has a silver lining, brought me some goo humour. Battery change was most probably just a coincidence or only because of "wiring issues" already present. Plenty on here seem to use OBDEleven, doing a back-up file as is before doing alterations, you could ask for advice if needed. The German car marques seemed very keen to have very complicated computer systems and programs going back a while, probably for many reasons (and not just for Dieselgate :cough:) but personally I don't find them to be German engineering excellence, on three occasion now with my wife's car the "idiot" (or "idiotic" for this thread 🤣) warning messages and lights have acted for no good reason or too late, I don't trust them fully and not as far as I could (re)boot them. Hope you get sorted easily and soon, very thin wires put under stress wot could possibly go wrong. 😉 Cheers.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Martin, welcome, don't feel bad if you have made a mistake, just have a laugh about it, by coincidence I just made a mistake and the circumstances of my mistake have jollied me up, if you have made a mistake go the same way, no one got hurt and it can be seen as funny, if you want. As well as here a good source of information about this car new to you is the 'Owner's Manual', reading it, and referring to it will give you a great deal of useful information about your car. If you don't have the paper printed copy for any reason, or even if you have but also want an electronic copy, then you can get a pdf copy from the following link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Also just for info, you were correct in looking at the car from the rear of it facing forward and saying the right, or right hand side (rhs) as with the steering wheel (for UK) being on the right hence right hand drive (RHD). This side is also sometimes referred to (in the UK) as offside, easiest way to remember this is that the passenger side is the nearside (N/S), the side nearest the kerb. HTH.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry I missed your last post, about loss of communication, so yes possibly broken wires. Have a look here for fuse locations and much more, and for my sake and that of other(s), I am not saying they are where you suggest. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Unintentionally I trolled my personal troll. 🤪 I am not bothered about it as it is poetic justice. I will leave you in his normally capable hands on such subjects as this.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Try this. - Turn the key BLADE in the lock of the driver door into the closing position and hold it there until all of the windows are closed remove the key blade reinsert the key blade and turn it to the closing position for about 3 seconds.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I was thinking that something like this would come from Europe, and it does not have to be on priority delivery. I am sure Mustafa_Samir can not be in any real financial hardship if he can afford a car for pleasure driving (in the UK 'joy ride' is taking a drive or ride in a stolen car).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you are doing that you might as well at least give them a cleaning and depending on how much of a PITA the job is, or is appropriate at this time, dissemble and lubricate and/or adjust. This is often one of those very dirty jobs on a car that you do not know the history of and can sometimes take a lot longer than you expect or it should if the brakes are the type with springs or fitting that fight against you for no good reason.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes fair enough but you do not have to buy that type or from USA, that was just an example that they exist. As I put I have never had a problem with thermostats and they generally are not an expensive item that generally last trouble-free for very many years (or decades in the case of "classic" cars). So even if the postage charges are high the cost spread over the life of the thermostat makes them next to nothing.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. That is not necessarily a good practice especially as you have removed the thermostat so the coolant will reman colder for longer, the engine will be running richer for longer and the engine oil will be cooler for longer. The car is designed and made to be started up able to be driven straight off and certainly easily at 10C. I would imagine, but do not know as I have not seen the books, that the Owner's Manual would give advise on this. Obviously the car should not be driven hard until the engine oil has got to normal operating temperature, without an oil temperature gauge or readout you have to use your experience to judge this and is usually a while after the coolant temperature has reached its usual reading for normal operation (subject to the gauge being reasonable accurate and reliable). Bear in mind the thermostat also helps to control the temperature of the engine and that it closes as well as opens. I would urge you to return the car back to factory standard and put a good reliable thermostat back in, but of course it is your choice I am only giving my advice. Whatever temperature thermostat the factory installed for your country would be my choice.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You could perhaps get a good quality thermostat posted in from elsewhere. Although it does happen of course I have never had a thermostat fail. There are even (USA?) fail-safe thermostats, though I have no idea if they do such for your model. -https://motorad.com/why-should-your-next-thermostat-be-a-fail-safe-model/ It is unusually warm for the time of year here, currently 15.2C by coincidence which is considered warm and would be considered extremely warm in mid-winter and 15C could easily been seen in summer here. Are you driving at over 100km/h before the car/engine has fully warmed up and does the temperature reading rise after this and you are travelling at lower speeds like 50km/h as I wonder how accurate your temperature gauge reading might be. My 1973 car used to overcool in winter, with thermostat fitted, on open road driving but would very soon warm up again when I got to 50k/h driving and with heat soak when the engine was switched off (mechanical not electric gauge so easily seen).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Removing the thermostat is not always the best solution (ETA: might not apply in your case - as that can increase coolant flow in that area) sometimes it is better to put in a thermostat more suited to the climate - but I do not know for certain with your car, however 10-30C weather is within what a standard factory specification thermostat is designed for. Personally I would refit the thermostat at is helps the engine warm up (even) quicker and controls the coolant temperature (until it is fully open). Whatever the thermostat is marked as this is the temperature at which it starts to open not when it is fully open, which is about IIRC 8C higher, and there is a thermostat manufacture tolerance to these figures.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. It is a diesel. And petrol or diesel same as computers GIGO but for cars SISO (sh1te in, sh1te out)., you use petrol, you keep your air filter clean, you regularly change good quality oil (and filter and coolant) you have a different type of engine to more modern cars. Getting the "engine breathing" wrong will cause problems, why possibly introduce problems especially when you do not have to or need to and for no gain.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Alternator (water pump?) (tensioner roller?) perhaps might be one of the noises, is the belt tight (or tensioner stiff seized)? You could perhaps have the bonnet up and see how it sounds just idling from starting then remove the drive belt and see how it sounds just idling from starting without the belt and see if it sounds better.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I am agreeing, and slightly disagreeing, with what MAT0693 has put. For usual road driving they are not normally needed unless the engine has a problem and/or is quite a bit modified. Cars that do a lot of heavy breathing like those used as track-day and racing often have them as it is very much frowned on to drop oil on to a track, it may be against some or all race regulations but I do not know about any race regulations. Catch tanks have been used on smaller capacity normally-aspirated engines for decades, and bear in mind engine size is all relative one very old car had a 250cc(!) engine and Americans are used to 5 and 7 litre engines, all without turbos.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. What about something like the alternator (water pump?), how easy is to disconnect the drive (fan) belt to see if noses disappear, or carefully listen with some sort of stethoscope.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. There are other types, personally I do not use any and I am not sure of the reliability and accuracy of any DIY tools for this.

So you've decided against something like the Millers Diesel Power ECOMAX (Multi Shot) then, personally (and I know others here have reverse and other opinion or belief about this) I think adding it in now and after/regular use, at least until the bottle is empty, would be a good belt and braces move for now and future use, particularly on a 14 year old diesel that may not get many blow-out runs. I'm sure your wife would be happy to buy the bottle as a low cost remedy for her mistake and as a reminder to prevent making the same mistake again. 😊 But it's you and/or your wife's money and decision of course and I don't want to start a marital dispute or divorce proceedings, just wanting you to get £400 out of those tyres. 😁 https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/diesel-power-ecomax/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Do you know if one or both noises are road speed or engine/transmission revs related. Can you do a public view audio or video recording of the noises.