Former

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Unless that's where the gauge normally shows for charged that's no where near ready for mating up to the car, bit more effort and patience required, no wham-bam-thank-you-mam, it's not teenage years stuff now.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Take multimeter showings with a pinch of salt, a mate asked me to take my optimistic multimeter over to compare against his old two and new one he just bought that showed lower than the two existing, all four showed different figures mine was near but above his original two and all three reasonable close but his new one was lower by a margin. Looks very nice and very good intentions for you by Mrs Gaz - but you can get more on an oval plate and that looks far too health for what it is . 😁

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Have a look here for your model and year (assuming the information is correct, always double/treble check). - https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/superb/ Bloody silly fashion for oversized wheels, a car like a Superb could be on 15" depending on its brakes.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Let the 'fun' begin, sooner you than me but I am sure you will enjoy it (for the most part). Be interesting to see which new parts are better than factory and which are not as good. The hose was a lucky find. If you can get a silicone set with proper s/s clips all the better. Good time to thoroughly clean out and service the whole 'water' cooling/heating system too. A can of GT85 would probably help with some further disassembly of mechanical and electrical. Check all new parts before taking out of the packaging if possible, check the label for correct parts and code numbers. I have had parts sent from the manufacturer and not realised or found out they were wrong or faulty until fitted and test/used. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes thanks, behind the green scrapper but it's not my car so it doesn't matter what I'd prefer. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Garages can be colder and damper inside than the outside, that no way to treat an old friend like Stanley! If it's +5c in the garage that's reasonable for the battery and charger, keep going slow and steady. I think it could take and hold the full charge, as much as it would be for a 9 year old battery that's been left to discharge anyway and even if it's lost a lot of it's cranking ability it could continue to start the Juke. It's surprising how much abuse some batteries seem to be able to take. Sure if it left as it was at some stage you might be charging it again but if you get to it before it gets too low you might see year(s) rather weeks or months out of John the battery. Just get it fully charged and not overcharged rather than just partially charge, judgement call with old standard charger as the new "smart" ones with drop to a maintenance once the battery is fully charged meaning you don't need to worry about leaving it and it overcharging. As you've show yours I'll show my old charger, well from the 1990s (or perhaps late 80s I forget), and well it's not mine but a photo from the almost world wide intraweb, it's still going strong and used very recently, well it might not be as strong as it was but it's still going.. Prove the doubters wrong, make Stanley and John proud.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I would prefer 14" wheels on the Fabia, it's not a heavy car (for a VW at least), I still think of 70 as low profile. 😄 185/60r15 on my wife's car, set to Eco tyre pressure was good to lower rolling resistance but you could notice it in the driving and as passenger, standard 30 psi seems better to us. Ride obviously also depends on the particular tyres, age, wear, etc.. But I'm sure a VW would have made improvements over a 2015 car as German engineering quality has it, IIRC 'S' was poverty spec for 2015. I had a 1999 MX-5 1.6, only one the Dealership had even seen leave on steel wheels, they rusted the first winter, but as the chap there said don't change until towards the end of the three year warranty as the replacement rusted just as quick, the only fault, I expect the steel wheels were British made. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The frozen motor not being able to work probably saved the fuse. All's well that ends well.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Best to check the battery, even if it's not the problem it could be a problem and a contributing problem.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Keeping on a low rate of charge, (2, 3 4 amps) there's no rush but it might take a couple of days. Switch it off after it's picked up a bit and let it rest for 30 minutes or thereabouts or how you feel and switch back on to charge. You might try this again later or not depending on how you feel. I give the battery about 75% chance (or more) but it depends on how you do, 😄 do you keep patience in stock. If it's stop/start and EFB battery you're not supposed to go above 14.8v charge and not overcharge it, and some would say you need an appropriate charger but keep your eye on things and all will end well as you're going. I've been charging my neighbours batteries for decades now but some have now got these stop/start things with the computer programs and EFB batteries. I charged a very old battery that was being used for garage lighting for a neighbour as he just leaves it lying on the sub-zero garage floor. It had a dry cell too but he had some of the right water. I didn't use my 30+ year old 4 amp charger but my 20+ year old "smart" charger/maintainer, it got the battery to just about full charge but the cranking power was still low so we tried his 12 amp charger/analyser as I was using it to check the battery I put the 12 amp charger to "Recondition mode", it killed the battery the charge decreased to below 12v. I get the **** taken out of me (which is fine, sometimes good) for putting it's best to do a long low slow charge and off the car in my stable (and warm at the moment) conditions. IIRC batteries like +5c to +20c and for charging they don't like 30c and even more 40c so that extreme summer weather would have weaken batteries that now fall over in the cold weather. My wife's Fabia Mk3 had a new AGM battery about 18 months ago and although she does a lot of short journeys last few weeks she's been getting in 2 or three longer shopping runs. No signs or inclination that the battery needed charging but I wanted prevention and not cure and to try out my new (£23.49) smart charger as it does AGM and operates down to -20C. Only -2c but the 18 month old AGM battery on the car with no signs of at all of battery being a bit low - took 17 hours in total to fully recharge. I'm changing to 95% you can do it, I've had two failures so nothing's a 100% but you might be better than me, I'm no expert. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Washer fluid frozen?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I found the Owner's Manual drawing for the fusebox in the engine bay didn't match what was in my wife's car when sorting the wiper arm stalk. According to to our 2015 Owner's Manual the fusebox in the cabin for a RHD car has top row far right fuse as fuse "22 Front- and rear windscreen wiper system" and bottom row about middle of row fuse "46 Front and rear window washer, operating lever under the steering wheel" - very unhelpfully they don't give amp rating or colour.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I've no idea about equipment level and options/extras on 2018-20, I've a 2016 catalogue and that's it but if you can source the catalogue on the net all the various tables are there, or others might be along with the information. Personally I'd not buy a car made during the Covid and chip shortages period - others which such cars may know better and disagree as it's only my personal view - and I'd look at earlier models with 4-cylinders to avoid the later regulations. I'm not against 3-cylinders and have owned a few from and in 90s and start of this century but apart from one unusual one they were Japanese with (real) good built quality engines. toot does VW's history with 3-cylinders go back beyond very recent years?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Good to see also the note at the bottom to check the tightness of the wheel bolts (nuts). If you don't have a torque wrench to use or borrow then if that garage is nearby you could perhaps ask them to check and throw them a packet of biscuits or something, to keep them sweet. 😉

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. That's seems very good value to me. To save some necks.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. That's a great outcome. Of course, as always, the better-half was right and has been proven so, again. 😊

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If your friend is the type to have everything then hopefully the charger is appropriate for a stop/start EFB battery on it's arse and the voltmeter a good accurate reliable one, in which case don't fall out with them. My advice is that you have the opportunity to recharge your (tight-fisted VW) EFB factory battery on a long low and slow recharge, rejuvenate or whatever else the charger might call it, 7 stages at least to keep up with the Joneses. My wife's 18-month old AGM battery wasn't anywhere near showing any signs on the car of being low and had longer journeys that usual the previous two weeks before I finally was able to get hold of it to do a preventative (my hassle battery charger recharge, first time ever in 45 years of car ownership but we've never owned a VW before). It took 17 hours mostly in freezing fog in the balmy temperature of -1.7c when I checked. Personally I'd be really ****ed off not to get the battery back to use but I'd happily keep the AGM battery and pass on VW's not so finest. Do bear in mind even if the EFB battery shows full charge , after say 2-3 hours of rest, better still with some load to take off any surface charge left, that doesn't tell you how much of the original cranking power is still left in the battery to start the engine. Ask your friend to lend you his battery analyser (and why didn't he offer it before, some sort of friend, don't they trust you with it 😄) you could also test on your car. Good luck, and what's your friend's phone number?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Mini, not E-Type.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry my intention wasn't to say having it on maintain was bad and couldn't or shouldn't be done rather that for the 'average' owner that intends to use the car regularly it's better to cycle the use of the car and battery. I think you have just about knocked the ball out of the park with providing "appropriate". Running the engine for an hour on idle to keep a battery charged is totally beyond me as is only driving a car every 6 months but it's different strokes for different folks and each to their own. Why didn't you just disconnect the battery, security, insurance, drive in a garden, I've only got hard (luck) standing. You can thank me I've got my troll as I dread to think what he'd make of this - but as its you and not me it might well pass easily . 😆

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Blimey it must be something in the water here. I have found with old cars you can not rely on anything being as factory or to factory standard, if you tell me the pan can not be painted gloss I will take your word for it. I am not sure everyone with the excitement of playing around with sexy toys and their cars would rush to get to the ground and under the car to wipe off possibly dirty gritty oil with all the other possibly contaminants that might be there (dog hairs perhaps 😉 ) but I'm sure R_Blue keep our reminders to mind. The inaccuracies and unreliability might not be as wide as a nuclear cloud drifting across, its only going to give a rough idea to one point anyway. Your eyes would swivel in your head looking at some oil temperature gauges under some car use. It's more often just another thing to worry about that wasn't a worry before. Whoever needs or wants all the extra stuff that most owners do without then that is their choice. Obviously they have much more storage space than I, obviously. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes I should perhaps the 20w and 50 of 20w50 multigrade oil I was being more descriptive than technical and the SAE but for those really interested, the site is out of date but the principles apply. - https://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto_oils/oil_viscosity_explained.htm

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You shouldn't need a new battery but you might it depends on the use of the vehicle and if yours is still an EFB one from factory or previous owner(s), garage/Dealership swaps ot use and abuse.. If you're getting a new battery get an AGM* and get a good quality one, varooom is good with such advice. * ETA: I'm not sure now that it's always best to go from EFB to AGM, depends on circumstances

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @numskull just in case I didn't make myself clear to you. If you recharge the battery with a battery charger now and in future when appropriate, rather than trying to make up too larger battery deficit by just driving as many think, and use the battery charger maintainer when appropriate you could get a lot more life from the battery. Or you can go by the same as VW put in their Owner's Manuals and perhaps the advice of the RAC man. My troll has very selective reading and understanding of my posts but whilst he's bothering me he's not bothering others, I accept it for all my bad deeds in past lives. 🤣 Troll- la-lol. 🤣 🤣

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Wow, what wind-chill factor have you got where you're driving or the car is parked! At 4 years you'd hope the antifreeze element of the coolant was still working, you can test it anyway, with traditional coolant it used to be the antifreeze part that lasted longer than the other parts but as VW keep changing their minds on which coolants they insist on you'll have to look on the plastic expansion er, vessel(?), to see which G?? (?) yours might be, for its specs.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Best you could do then and old cars are often hibernated for many months but the battery is designed to be cycled so normal use is helpful. As I put I've yet to discover how to test these batteries best and don't know where to find the info, I might contact some manufactures once the Xmas and New Year madness is well passed.