Former

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. 12.4 is fine for AGM. That I don't know about and hope someone else can tell us. Also it may depend on how the 350 was arrived at, tester set for AGM / stop-start and I don't know whatever might be significant to the testing and result.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I wasn't thinking of the weight/(multi)grade but the quality, properties and additives package of the oil. Bear in mind both the 20w and 50 are in ranges so one oil called 20W could be a different weight grade to another and same for the 50. The better oils will more consistently remain at whatever weight/grade they are and for longer. As an example, it was said, no proof, a certain 10w-60 would with use drop into the 50 range. A 60 might be used instead of a 50 by those that put greater stress on the engine and or for hotter weather use. The old British cars I had specified 20w-50 but I used to use a 15w-50 "Motorsport" version and would have used a 10w-50 or 5w-50 had they been about and good quality because I used my cars through winter and they all always sit outside as I do not have a garage. I think R-Blue for now at least should stay with whatever oil weight/(multi)grade Skoda specified for his location. You would know better than me but with the laser thermometers you also have to allow for (sorry I forget the word) but the reading being from shiny metal such as a painted pan and or covered in oil, plus you always need to test the accuracy of any test equipment before conducting the test, I have seen some quote some very strange figures from using an infrared thermometer. When I was lent one I found it to be a bit inconsistent with its readings but that might have been my use or it was unreliable or a combination of both. Over here the position or placement of the front number plate can make a difference to cooling. On a tour one chap had the number plate in a good place but had fitted the tour's rally plaque at the front partially blocking the hole to the radiator on a fibreglass Cobra replica. The fibreglass body combined with a 7 litre American V8 engine and hot summer weather already did not help with cooling and the oil cooler was not best positioned. But just moving the rally plaque helped to calm the driver's temperature gauge anxiety. Some people do not drive their cars enough to really know or understand the car and how to drive it.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Drain the oil out as hot/warm as possible/sensible. When it gets to the drips pour say around 250ml of fresh clean new warmed oil in and let it drain straight out as a mini flush. Synthetic oils generally handle the heat (as in your climb) and the cold better and protect for longer so unless the synthetic oils is more than twice the price of the ELF Evolution or Castrol GTX 20W50 LPG as you are changing it once instead of twice overall it is costing you no more money. Like all oils some synthetics are better than others but as with many items there are diminishing returns as you go up in quality and price but if you are prepared to buy in advance you may be able to take advantage of lower prices at certain times or circumstances.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I think you might be better using a better and more suitable oil for your use and do thorough ('hot' and long drains rather than 'cold' and quick) oil and filter changes every 10,000 km same or lot less cost and less work and probably more effective for use and maintenance. Yes but the engine will not be brand new, reliably warranted, easy to install and maintain, fit and forget for very many years, reliable performance improvement including perhaps some fuel economy. But I understand about the cost, you have to consider the benefits and how long you keep the car and how much you use it. Redone the figures for tyre size. 3rd - 3,000 / 61 kph - (1,987 / 40 kph) 4th - 3,000 / 83 kph - (2,195 / 61 kph) 5th - 3,000 / 109 kph - (2,320 / 83 kph) 3rd - 5,000 / 103 kph - (3,312 / 67 kph) 4th - 5,000 / 140 kph - (3,658 / 103 kph) 5th - 5,000 / ---------- - (3,867 / 140 kph) Also discovered graphs lower down the page where I had never ventured before.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. With those results you might want to think about keeping the battery and changing the car! 🤣 If you recharge the battery with a battery charger now and in future when appropriate, rather than trying to make up too larger battery deficit by just driving as many think, and use the battery charger maintainer when appropriate you could get a lot more life from the battery. You will need to abuse the battery a lot more and perhaps nearer the end of your membership cover for the year, or future year(s). Follow the RAC advice and you should be OK battery wise for your upcoming trip. Good luck and enjoy your trip.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Up to you if you want to believe me and or check further but I have twice had incandescent bulbs that worked intermittently and a plastic blade fuse. Swap the fuses with ones of the same amperage on items you definitely know are working as a double check. And yes check the battery after it has rested as you are better to recharge it before the battery gets too low and causes all sorts of computer and computer program issues and warnings even if the car starts and the lights look bright enough and often just driving the car the will not sufficiently recharge the car an appropriate battery might be needed. Just see the threads for such multiple now the bad weather is finally here after an extreme summer weather (in some parts of the UK at least) that was not good for batteries and charging systems. Prevention is better than cure, frost and battery. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The RAC are very keen to sell batteries, too keen, and are expensive but if you have the cover, up to you if you want to breakdown at your own inconvenience, many batteries given sufficient charge (time and patience) can be recovered and made to last longer or a lot longer - but not if they're been flogged too near to death or too many times. You are breaking down at the same time as many others with battery neglect so it depends on how popular or not your battery is and the RAC van stock levels. Don't worry you will be one of very many now, the RAC man will tell you that, 'ow's your c/heating? 😁 More info here, good luck. - https://www.rac.co.uk/batteryfittingservice#:~:text=The RAC battery fitting service,you – usually within 30 minutes.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Great stuff I love an easy inexpensive fix, especially if it keeps your hands clean and from too much farting about on cars, not very technically sexy but a lot of that is ego stuff. Start very simple and move on if needed, in which case I'm lost. If you read and refer to the Owner's Manual you'll know a lot more about your car than many long term owners. See if there any stuff in the next two videos you don't yet know or have forgotten about. Skoda Fabia Mk3: Tips & Handy Features Part 1 Skoda Fabia Mk3: Tips & Handy Features Part 2

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @R_Blue my post wasn't meant to be entirely serious, other than pets getting feed rubbish food that means they do not always have good coats and skin and shed a lot. I'd no idea what slobs and litterers you have, fur/hair even from poorly feed animals squashes down to next to nothing to take very little waste bin space. I think protecting your own health is pretty important but there are limits but as with car problems health problems need proper diagnosis from the experts I can one-thousand-percent tell you that from personal experience. Separately, only yesterday my wife told me of her friend's husband who had collapsed they thought with Anaphylactic shock and was under hospital care. He as a young lad had seen his father suffer the same thing from mushrooms so all his life he would not touch mushrooms and so neither does his own daughter. He was tested for food allergies and from what my wife was told it was practically all foods - but not including mushrooms! That night my wife went to an Xmas meal and for decades she has got a sniffy or running nose from eating or drinking but now it's from first thing when she gets up in the morning. An ex-dentist was at the meal and noticed the use of tissues and said it was not uncommon and to deep breath menthol before even getting out of bed. She has not had the opportunity to to get any to try. So get tested, it might be dog hairs and other crap your residents think of as city life or it might be something else or that and something else. Yeah and do you get your money back if it doesn't work after a nebular explosion. 🤣

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Good to know. Unfortunately VW/Skoda fitted EFB to the Fabia Mk3, at least from my wife's car and what I've seen, or remember, from here. Just my luck when I changed the battery on my wife's car 18months ago it was more expensive than now as there was a rash of VW/Skoda owners with failing batteries so I read here. I broke my own rule and changed the battery well before needed to cover my own more important rules of not farting about with a (second) car and making sure my wife has no hassles so doesn't pass on the hassles to me. -1.7c now and still showing 12.8V. I can't sleep as I'm so worried about the battery charger and someone stealing it. 🤣

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thanks for your reply. A lot of people think that, some even know it but bear in mind the battery is just like a bank account you have to make sure the outgoings don't entirely depleted what saved and put in otherwise things don't go so well. I was thinking very occasional charging rather periodic, of course it might step up a bit as the battery and charging system and car age, when you change the battery only that is new. You've got flashing lights and the battery is struggling to start, perhaps it still would have had it been charged fully with an appropriate battery charger but too late to know now unless you were monitoring the battery during driving. Fair enough, but your dad's car is at least 14 year old when the electricery was less complicated and (VW particularly) computer programs were less complex, intertwined and invasive, his car might have less eclectic bits on it and no start/stop. Some only seem to expect a few years out of a car battery now so you've done well to get over 5 in that respect - however your dad got 14.5 years so perhaps you should let him drive your car - only joking. 😄 Again thanks for your replies, have a good 'un, cheers. ETA: the charger/maintainer still shows 12.8v after nearly 7 hours, perhaps the display has frozen the weather has gone down to -1c now but at least the charger is still there (feels colder than -1c though).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Not to me. 😄 Have you done any full battery recharges with an appropriate battery charger or just driving the car as you do so many miles? I'm all for getting as much out of the battery as possible but some do seem to drive them into the ground, and without ceremony. 🙂 Personally I don't run a battery too low and never would attempt to on a modern VW (or other German marques) because of their evil computer programs, particular VW. You are covered more than most as you can clear any stored or building codes but for those without they can gang up. Personally any electronics I'm wary of when it gets cold as they often don't like it but I feared to question the glorious VCDS as it usually has very loyal supporters. Do you know for sure if 20 minutes is long enough and everything turns off, I know some posters have used cheap or second hand monitoring systems that record the car's electrical activity when used and parked up, I've no idea how long a 2017 VW would be awake or doing stuff with itself after being parked but would be curious as my wife has a 2015 VW product (I know different marque, model and year, just interested). I got the new charger/maintainer on my wife's car on it's return about 5.30pm today to our hard (luck) standing, only about -0.5c outside then so well within the -20c operating temperature (and this summer we had 40.2C so just above its +40c operating), set it to 12v winter and 5 hours later it's still showing 12.8v , -0.1c now so it's warmed up outside. When it's finished it will show "FUL" and go to maintain mode so I and others can sleep easy knowing the battery will come to harm. I just hope no one steals my new charger/maintainer.

I do not know about Amsoil but the British blend I used in my road-only old banger is sold as "Classic Sport High Performance 20w50" with - " Intended for use in arduous applications such as sustained fast road use, track and motorsport. Suitable for operating at 125°C with peak temperatures up to 150°C." - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/classic-sport-high-performance-20w50/

toot, I'm not a fan of space savers especially as most (all?) cars now have oversized wheels and tyres so often the spacer saver tyre is so narrow compared to the standard wheels I think often they're barely suitable to get you to the next place of safety let alone home or as some do use them for a lot longer after fitting. I would remove a space saver from a boot as the extra room in the boots I had was of much more use that a tyre to get me a short distance and removing it and the wheel changing kit also saved a bit of weight for me to have a bigger snack. Many years back now I sold a 25 year old unused spare wheel and tyre once and latter the person bought the car off me (and really done it up well and used and showed it). And you have reminded me I still have a, full sized, spare in the shed, 3.5" steel wheel with a very good 145/80 r13 tyre, must get shot of that. I had a Mk2 MX-5 when they were new, the 1.6 so only about 100hp that had a space saver that I fitted and even on the front just driving normally through town at 30mph and less I could feel the difference on breaking and I had the standard steel wheels on that (the only MX-5 the Dealership had ever seen remain on its steel wheels, that rusted first winter but had a 3-year warranty so I didn't care) and normally sized tyres. The tyres were Yoko and too good for fun so I swapped them (in the days when I could afford to do such) for tyres with less dry grip but more wet grip. You might like this, forget the editing of facts, I don't know if the spare wheel was put on this or remained on the Laser, the car was in much better condition than when I passed it on and another turn of the odometer since with certainly the last I heard and saw it, before Covid, in daily use still and kept to show standard. - https://www.adrianflux.co.uk/influx/features/legend-ford-capri/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The full sized spare tyre should be used but it would be best if it matches the tyre on the other side. I think it's a total waste to have a full sized tyre sitting unused in the boot for 6 years, if you rotate its use with the other four you even overall wear of the tyres and stand more chance that the spare tyre is the same make/model and (nearer) wear as the other four, depending on how and when you change tyres. For decades I didn't carry a spare in many of my cars, just a manual foot pump and a reliable pressure gauge, this seemed to scare and offend some which made me wonder how well they looked after their cars and treated their wheels and tyres, perhaps running them to the very last fraction of a millimetre to the legal limit. But as always each to their own and different strokes for different folks. Personally I have always been able to run on "summer" tyres but that is my choice I am aware of the effects of ambient and road temperatures on them and generally drive where extremes are not that frequent so again different strokes for different folks and each to their own.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I saw a couple of 2CVs on the road on separate occasions quite recently. I fondly remember in the later 1970s being taken to a country village pump as a passenger, four up flying round the Daventry roundabouts in the evening fog, first roundabout I wondered if we would make it there but by the second I knew we would. Makes you appreciate the fun rather than the ego dials. I do not think R_Blue would have a chance to on the road he was on and once the momentum was dropped it would take a lot to build it again hence the truck driver's annoyance. I initially thought the road might be in the UK but it's not and its' a dual-carriageway.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The calculator I have was set up by someone else and I do not know how the figures are rounded up or down but it has proved near enough when I have used it before. I got a bit mixed up converting the mph to kph but think I was right in the end. I forgot to put what the figures in brackets were for others. With that we are agreeing, not to do as the Felica guy. As for the Polo guy he annoyed me half a dozen times within the first two minutes so I skipped through the video. Again we are agreeing, I do think that is labouring the engine, and you missed the word if in quoting I understand what you were getting at by this but think you have misunderstood the general thrust of my posts as I am not always the best at writing and explaining. I tend to present and sometimes give information from elsewhere, even if it disagrees with my thoughts, so that others can make up their own minds if they have not already done so before. As the gearing is not great for this road I think R_Blue wants to perhaps vary the way he drives up it as well as check that his car is performing as well as it could or should. I know it is very difficult to know how well his car is going if he is unable to drive another same model, that is in good running order, or if someone who has one or knows them very well drives R-Blue's car. ETA: Not carrying unnecessary additional weight always helps such as heavy tools and spare parts that are never used or should not be required, some people need to tow a trailer to carry all the just-in-case spare parts and components they want to because once in 40 years of driving this or that part failed or played up, I would have needed to tow another complete running car for all the possibilities I have had. Once had an electrical fuse that was internment, seen a couple of intermittent incandescent bulbs and far too much other stuff for me to remember plus all the one-offs I have heard about. I prefer prevent to cure, I have had enough (minor) roadside repairs to last me two lifetimes I do need need any more or consider them "fun" or "part of the adventure" of old car ownership. Having driven "classics" (over-priced and over-valued old cars) for 30+ years as dallies I know that those new to the models will have very little idea, or wrong information on how well they could or should go and they only real way to experience this is to drive a good running example, which often is not the cleanest shiniest examples. And even if you know the model and drive it daily someone else driving the car can pick up on things that you have missed or got used to and driving similar models or cars can highlight the good and not so good or bad with your car. Unlike the Polo guy at least have the car properly running and prepared for any testing.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If they would fit my choice for comfort and our third-world roads (thank you wealthy bankers pensions) would be 14" wheels, as well as potholes there's kerbing, but I don't know how popular the 14" tyres sizes are, which give choice and value. Even with the 15" tyres (185/60 r15 on my wife's car) you need careful selection if you want good comfort, noise and handling, running at eco setting of 35 psi definitely reduces the rolling resistance so presumably helps with mpg but it also makes things a crashy and reduces comfort, noise and handling, we stick to the 30 psi now on more comfortable tyres but we won't see great mileage out of them but I'm used to that. I won't give you a thank you for 16" wheels as I'm not into fashion or filling the wheel arches I prefer the extra room for suspension travel, mud and snow (fortunately I've always been able to use "summer" tyres all year round).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The trick is to charge the battery before the start/stop packs in and fully recharge the battery as soon as the start/stop, er, stops often this will require more than just driving the vehicle but the use of a suitable battery charger left on long enough to fully charge the battery not just a wham, bam, thank you mam. 😄 Perhaps you could have got longer (or even lot longer) out of all three batteries by recharging them sooner. 😉 😄 I know it's not always convenient to do the job properly. I wanted to recharge the 18 month old AGM battery on my wife's car this weekend because it does lots of very short journeys, is always parked outside (we're not wealthy enough to have a garage just hard-luck standing) and it's -1.7c now and IIRC we've seen -13c (without wind chill factor) before. If it doesn't need much it doesn't matter as my latest (and newest by 20+ years) charger is also a maintainer, has a winter setting and works to -20c and is IP65 (£23.49) so it can work outside. My wife is keen to get it done as only this week she had to use the keyblade to get into the car as the remote battery died and this set the car alarm off and she'd forgotten the procedure to get over this - get the key in ignition and switched on quick! But then I forgot and set the alarm off when synchronising the remote after battery change and forgot you had to pull and hold the handle to get the keyblade to operate properly as I didn't follow my own advice and RtFM because I was being a Billy-big-b*ll*cks that thought he already knew. 😜 But wot a palaver VW want to put owners through and they say the German don't have sense of humour. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I did not realise your road was all dual-carriageway I would be very bored with that after a 5 or 10 mile blast I like roads not much wider than a narrow car. I do not know the rounding of numbers in the calculator I have but on your ratios with 165/70/13 tyres it comes out with (if(?) I have input correctly and converted mph to kph correctly). ETA: the figures in the brackets are from the gear change. - 3rd - 3,000 / 58 kph - (1,987 / 38 kph) 4th - 3,000 / 80 kph - (2,195 / 58 kph) 5th - 3,000 / 102 kph - (2,320 / 80 kph) 3rd - 4,000 / 80 kph - (2,649 / 53 kph) 4th - 4,000 / 93 kph - (2,927 / 80 kph) 5th - 4,000 / 141 kph - (3094 / 93 kph) 3rd - 5,000 / 100 kph - (3,312 / 66 kph) 4th - 5,000 / 137 kph - (3,658 / 100 kph) 5th - 5,000 / 177 kph - (3,867 / 137 kph) If you think of 3,250 -5,000 rpm being the powerband, and it might not be with your car, and if my figures are correct you will see only about 5,000 rpm in 2nd, 3rd and 4th will get you in the band on these figures. You do not have a racing gearbox or racing gearing so if you drive like that Felica guy you will be putting additional stress and wear on tour engine and transmission. Same for changing up just before the rev limiter, do you even have a rev limiter other than yourself, is your car capable of being pushed to the 5,000 rpm let alone more without regret. A test on a level empty open road is fine but be sure what your car's limits are first, top fuel dragsters can go to 161 kph in 0.8 second but the engine is completely stripped down and built back up every 1/4 mile (400m) run and the gearbox, clutch and fuel are slightly different and even then they often break. You do not need an oil gauge, you may want one but that is a different matter, it may help you or just give you more to worry about. If the engine is NOT being laboured then 3,000 rpm all day long is fine but if you feel losses it can be because of other than or as well as engine oil, this is why I prefer a good quality oil in an oil car, a synthetic oil will offer more protection and for longer and deal with the heat (and cold) better generally but it can't make up for any engine issues (well perhaps a very little by allowing a limp home rather than roadside stop(s). What is synthetic and what is 'synthetic' as a marketing term is a different matter, but a good oil is a good oil whatever it is or called. For the gearbox with how you are driving the car and want to if you like Castrol this might be a better oil for you, Castrol TRANSMAX Manual Transaxle fully synthetic that's suitable for you but also as with the engine oil change the thotoughness of the change is important. It was the 123ignition fully electronic dissy that I was referring to, I had the basic what they now call "switch", another Renault "switch" might include curves suitable to your car but you would have to enquire and note the LPG. -https://123ignition.com/products/page/2/?filter_brand=renault The cost of it must be considered as spread over time and mileage and the improvements you could get (starting, idling, throughout the rev range, no farting about with points or messing around with timing once properly set). Well that's enough for one night, if you can get a 75w-90 the 90 should be better at high temperatures particular a good 75w-90.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thanks, even I (ought to) know this sort of stuff (I'm reminded when I watch the burly truck drivers with their big rigs) I didn't think the multiplier out fully, well maths (with a 's') and thinking are not my strong points.

@Gabbo 500m instead of varoom's 100m, tut, just goes to show how much you abuse that poor battery. 🙃 Some will say if you haven't 'coded' the battery in the car could be overcharging it because the car doesn't know it is a new battery and the life of your battery will be shorten, I did not have the new battery 'coded' straight away but the battery is only about 18 months old so I have no proof, either way. For your new battery when needed hopefully with your experience you will recharge the new battery sooner than later. I would get a scan done to remove any historical codes as I don't trust the over-complex VW computer programs, at the same time as having the battery coded in but I would not lose sleep over it in the meantime, but that's me. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Blimey are you a fan/discipline of the likes of Novaxz Joke-a-blitz, some very minor health problems for a few people and less minor for a very few others. If owners actually feed their pets suitable food there would be much less hair loss for the majority of pets. At least this type of stuff you can see the sh!te that comes out of our car exhaust is among the ****e that's less visible (unless it's a VW , Audi diesel) sh1te that is doing a lot more harm to those on the roads and pavements and quite a distance from them too. If anyone needs or wants more protection for whatever they think they need that's fine, different strokes for different folks.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. 5mm for fronts then they're probably not that old but it doesn't pay to assume on things like this, have a look for the date of manufacture on them. That doesn't always directly related to when they were fitted of course and tread depth is only one element and the tyres could have had a hard life bumping up and down kerbs, humps potholes. Personally if they're similar to the concrete rears I'd swap out for a new set of four better tyres especially if I was doing a couple miles of motorway a week, but that's just me.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Could it be the injectors? Any other information taken from a scan tool with engine running? Do you do a lot of short or low speed journeys? Is the 50% chance of starter motor a guess from someone or from any sort of diagnosis?