Former

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Good thing it got a new battery then, also check the windscreen washer fluid has sufficient antifreeze rating to it as there's been a few threads on here with frozen washer systems. Even if you're not driving it yet you can still learn a lot about it, and know more about it than many long term owners, by reading the Owner's Manual and referring to it when required. You can resolve a lot of minor issues by referring to it. If the car doesn't still have its paper printed copy you can still download a pdf copy from the following link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Instead of WD-40 Multi-Use get a can of GT85 as it can be used on rubber, contains PTFE and does what WD-40 does and more, and is a better and longer lasting lubricant and better penetrating/releasing fluid. (Note the company that now owns and makes it.) - https://gt85.co.uk/gt85-original/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes possibly, low battery can cause unexpected issues and warnings even if the car starts and the lights seems bright enough, the power steering would feel fine without warning bells and whistles on your test drive with normal driving and unless you were doing low speed parking, three-point turns or trying to pirouette on one wheel. BUT - you are buying a car, and from a Dealer, in the UK, take note of all the advice already given. You now have a new battery fitted and should have some kind of warranty so keep your eye on the ABS light area if it shows up you'll know what to do.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Whoops, sorry, at least I learnt something.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Can you hear the motor, Just grabbing straws thinking - have you tried pinning the jet nozzles just in case or taking the tubing off in case there's a snot blockage or tried syphoning the tubes. Any issues with the steering column stalk. I don't know what a bi-directional scanner would power up to test.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Martin, well done on sorting it Pete done all the accurate and concise work not me, I'd have not posted about fuse 46 had I seen his post before I put mine and I'm sure he'll be able to help you with the other electrical issues. To be honest I wasn't sure that was the alarm at all but did notice a cable-tie restraining the cables cover which I don't think is factory fit so could be added later by who knows, I almost mentioned it but thought it best not to highlight it if it wasn't the alarm and was other electrical work as the alarm was the priority. Be great for others if you could do a write-up and some photos always help. The scan tool not getting anything could be several things but do bear in mind some of these tools are just error code readers, which is useful, others do and tell you a lot more but all are just diagnostic tools and have to be used as such, sometimes they point to the right thing straight off but it's not always that simple. If you put up some photos of the alarm box and its connections and the wiring and connector in the car perhaps Pete can offer some advice on it as it my be salvageable.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Put the Kit-Kat back! You were impatient, my wife's 18-month old (AGM) battery on a car with no (VW) signs of the battery being low took 17 hours to fully recharge (on the vehicle). Well done on taking it on though. You really want to fully recharge the battery, just because it starts the car and the lights seem bright enough doesn't mean the battery isn't low, or still low in this case, subject to the accuracy of the multimeter reading. The battery should show something like 12.6v to be fully charged (more or less depending on its age and use, abuse), 12.04v is about 45%. Even if you fully recharge it it might not be very good but you have to fully recharge it to know. I'll take at 720ah and the Juke started easily that it might be a diesel(?). Just for your info figures from my neighbour's Ring battery charger/analyser. 12.7v - 100% - 12.5v - 90% - 12.4v - 80% - 12.3V - 70% - 12.2v - 60% - 12.1v - 50% - 11.9v - 40% - 11.8v - 30% - 11.6v - 20% - 11.3v - 10%. When you next get a chance fully recharge it but don't wait too long or it'll go too low and you'll take it to Zombieland. ETA: Did Stanley really stand for all this, after all he's seen, must have broken his, er leg, cross-bracing, spirit.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Well done to you - and Stanley, Halford and John. Just the one finger of the Kit-Kat for now, did you get the battery fully charged, what figure at connecting to the car (was there a bet on that I forget)? Flog the doubters. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes lots of info about but what is correct and what applies to your car, your VIN should get you to the correct Owner's Manual. Just about to put I'd follow the advice you'd been given before to try 54, so I'll just a triple up on that.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'd follow the advice of pulling fuse 54 especially as it's there to be pulled (I thought it related to stop/start alternative). I totally understand about the alarm going off when you open the door, personally I can't stand car or house alarms. If you're only third party (can you still get that?) and not third party, fire and theft then there's no worry about not having an alarm. Sorry I've no idea what that thing is. For tagging (I'd forgot that's what it's called) put the @ symbol in front as in @mlbSK2011 Once you've stopped the alarm going off you can get to take more photos to get help from others with the other electrical problem. (I was hoping you'd be back by now saying you'd pulled the fuse and the alarm didn't go off.)

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Uhmm, perhaps it's a faulty switch then, for how it's removed I'd search this site, Google or YouTube. Other thing I suppose is to plug in a scan tool to see if anything shows up but you'd think it'd be the switch. Perhaps other Rapid or Skoda owners have had this fault too and are able to give you a better answer than me.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. MLS - multi layer steel. I though multi layer but not steel had to look it up. - https://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-stories/engine/choosing-mls-head-gaskets/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry, I put the correct info in but got interrupted and then thought I'd put the post in the wrong thread deleted it and misread your post. Doh. Read two similar threads is beyond me. To cut it short, from a previous AG Falco post on the other thread, check fuses 22, 27, 31 and 46, start with 22.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes that's the point as I see it, the article is explaining the limitation, a couple of millimetres, not 12. I'm familiar with (steel) wheels of 100 mm PCD being fitted by mistake to 4" PCD (101.6 mm) (but not with the silly bloody bolts that VW use though but wheel studs).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. That's what the (article in the) link was suggesting (not that I'd ever heard of wobble bolts before that I can remember).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi, welcome. With the lights on try pushing the light switch in towards the dash - the Owner's Manual is often your friend but you do have to read it and refer to it when required. If you don't have your copy of the printed paper version, or in addition, you can download a pdf version from the following link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Normally you're best to post in the section for your model and year for such enquiries. ETA: has now been moved. Hopefully a quick, easy, free repair in the warm and without getting your hands dirty, the only type of repair and work on a car.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. From the 2015 Owner's Manual - fuse "11 Headlight cleaning system", pdf copy of manuals from the following link if you've not got your paper printed copy. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I expected that to be the case. Compared with areed's head even after being skimmed yours is a lot better for corrosion.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Do you have access to a scan tool? ETA: Perhaps a good (landscape) photo of your engine bay are particularly the battery and connections and the earth to body might help to pick something out.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Do you know how often over the car's 24 years the coolant was changed as the corrosion protection element of the coolant goes before the antifreeze element does and often the coolant is not changed if the antifreeze part passes perhaps a once in a year, or longer, test, if ever tested.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Good news about not having stop/start (potentially dodged a few bullets there). I would have suggested and go along with the good advice you have been given to just remove the fuse and see what happens, that way if you want the alarm system back hopefully you can just put the fuse back in. You could store it in a slot for spare fuses in the box that way you know you have a spare fuse of that amperage that at least worked last time it was used. Always check and cross-reference any information you get from any source me especially, I have a bad memory and get things wrong. In the table example you've posted (I didn't follow the hyperlink) it has "Fuse position 46 Anti-theft alarm system 15 Amperes (A)" yet the photo you put up has a 20 amp fuse in the marked 46 position. Just in case you don't have the correct Owner's Manual for your car you can get a pdf copy from the following link but note what I put before about the diagram for my wife's 2015 Fabia. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Nothing wrong with Halfords for 12v car batteries but I've found before they used different battery numbers to others and when I fitted a Halfords own battery to my neighbour's car it had an extra layer of foot bar which my neighbour didn't want me to remove so I had to adapt (file elongate the hole in the clamping plate) for a not so nice fit and the battery number was different and battery slightly smaller than I'd have suggested but my neighbour had used the Halford look up system correctly. If you wanted to fit the battery yourself you could try Tayna who normally deliver the next day if you order before 6.30 pm but I've no idea at the moment, I'd ring and confirm if I was in a hurry for the battery what with the recent cold snap for stock levels, strikes and this end of year Xmas and New Year stuff. Unless you're not going to have the car in a few years and will be using it regularly on reasonable distance journeys with no excessive battery use for plug-ins I'd not suggest going for a minimum requirement battery, a better battery will generally give better performance but that doesn't always mean it's reflected in the retail price, a good battery is a good battery regardless of selling price. Breezy-Pete is a good person to help you with other electrical issues too but you'd help yourself and others if you put up more information about your model, for your current issues and perhaps future issues. Good luck, new batteries in the remote(s) and car will help rather than hinder with any electrical issues and a good base to begin from.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Car 12v batteries are probably the most oversold car part, the RAC seem to try to sell you one if you have a flat tyre. I'm big on where appropriate battery charger recharging rather than just hoping just driving will do the trick but better still where appropriate preventative battery charger charging. But in your case I think replacing the battery for new is a good measure given the history of the car. If your car is electric power steering then that will be affected by a battery in low state of charge. As the extreme heat isn't good for the battery neither is the extreme cold. I've no idea if the steering also has a switch issue but a battery in good state of health and charge will help rather than hinder electric power steering. Passenger side items might be wires or connectors or other but a good battery in a good state of health and charge with help rather than hinder. I'm not sure what the fuse actually controls, good on you for consulting the the Owner's Manual but unfortunately these are not as good as they could or should be, my wife's gives an incorrect diagram and I've seen others here put the fuses aren't as straight forwardly labelled as they should be. I'd not advise you to remove the alarm fuse for insurance reasons, instead synchronise the remotes and as soon as possible/convenient replace the batteries and synchronise the remotes again, it's seconds of light work. Now if you have a stop/start car that will have a stop/start battery and we enter a quick world of more fun. On your details you can enter more about the model of your car, see mine for example, a diesel will normally have a 'bigger' battery than a petrol for example.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You thrown a curve ball in by saying you have another minor electrical problem because that might be relevant. Without that I'd start with batteries, the car 12v battery wants to be in a good state of charge and the battery(s) in your remote control(s) need to be good, check these batteries. Personally as it's no cost, quick and easy (and no dirt on the hands) I would synchronise of the remote control(s) whether I changed the battery(s) or not in case one of the VW computer programs has got it's knickers in a twist. The Owner's Manual isn't plaain English on this (no surprise really) to synchronise you push any button on the remote and then within one minute unlock the door using the keyblade, not exactly hard work to try. The stupid car thinks you are are trying to steal it but it should have been OK as long as you got the keyblade in the ignition lock and switch the ignition on within 15 seconds after opening the door. If you have let your car 12v battery run down then this might not help with the alarm but it might be your alarm battery, cheaper and easier to try is as I've put. Have a look in your Owner's Manual for fuse allocation - but don't dismiss your car 12v car battery being low just because it starts and the lights seem bright enough especially if yours is a stop/start model, this summer's extreme heat of 30c and 40c wasn't good for batteries or charging systems and if issues haven't already shown they could well now the cold is here. Of course the other minor electrical issue might relate to your alarm issue or be separate or both possibly be related to the battery(ies) - what is this other minor electrical issue?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. UP on those eBay links if you want to you could save screen space and virtual ink by ending the link at the end of the itm (item) number, i.e. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225262586674 and https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232532901817

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes, most likely. Charging it sooner and fully might have given better results and even longer battery life than you got but you done better than would be expected already - and we're all older and wiser now (well older at least). I think you might be a convert to the importance of the 12v battery to a car especially modern cars and especially with the likes of VW products. Some say all you need do is drive the car for charging the battery, which is fine if you have shares in 12v car battery manufacturing. 😄 Your original battery was originally on a brand new car so should last the longest but given your past achievements and new experience and knowledge I bet you can get even longer out of your new battery. 😉