Former

Do not put too much faith in error codes or error codes being recorded. The error codes are only pointers, sometimes more exact than others, but codes have to be interpreted and used as part of further diagnosis - this is where some 'mechanics' may fail where proper trained (and can-be-arsed, or allowed to by garage) Technicians can sort matters. Having said that, your scan tool looks lower level a higher level should see more codes and perhaps stored historical codes. You'd think a Dealer level tool would be at the top, if they have one, or perhaps they only have one scanner and two or more cars need it or there's only one guy (rarely a woman unfortunately) that's trained to use it, or they're on holiday/sick/training or left the company, I never understand why the Dealership doesn't make a show of using multi-thousands pounds of scan tool with a fully trained Technician interpreting the information - or perhaps I do. Scan tools costing only hundreds of pounds can bring up loads of information on cars you've never heard of going back 15 years, and VW/Skodas so the Dealership tool ought to be VW all bells and whistles and be all singing and dancing and almost tell you the last time the fag lighter was used. My neighbour's non-pro scanner has IIRC 638 points to the engine on my wife's Fabia, can do live data streams comparing various items as you drive, freeze frame so you can look at everything at a point when a fault occurs. So the Dealership should be able to do that plus have a human to detect what the computers can't/don't and do diagnostics from that info, the scanner doesn't have ears or nose or experience and able to rationalise outside of its programming.

Based on the other stuff you do this would be easy enough, even an idiot like me can do it, these are not Formula 1 engines and as long as you set them consistently it would be fine, everyone has their own feel to how tight and some have different methods but with an old engine there's going to be wear and inconsistences so you don't need to work to Formula 1 standards.

FYI 7E8 just means engine and 7E9 transmission. Would don 't you let them keep your car whilst you drive their loan car.

For filters Mann are fine and not expensive and the cabin filters even come with instructions. See attached PDF below for instructions for airflow direction and what the filter looks like (look at the page and photos for 'Audi, Seat, Skoda, VW' and not the other pages. Link to Mann (other providers are available) filters. - https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/vehicle/MANN-FILTER Katalog Europa/Vehicles/CARS %2B TRANSPORTERS/SKODA/Fabia II (5J6, 5J9)/1.2 TDI ( (5J6~5J9)) CFWA (T00000000331555) Changing the engine oil & filter won't do any harm and may well help but I doubt it will solve your problem, however the servicing sounds like it may well be worth doing, bearing in mind the engine is one of the least important parts on the car. The brakes, steering, suspension, (all three include tyres), lights and essential electrics and glass areas (windows and mirrors) are more important. A very big tip I feel is to always have the car battery in a good state of charge and condition, along with its man cables and connections as if the battery gets too low even though the car starts and the lights seem bright enough the computers and their programs can throw all sorts of wobblies and bite you on the bottom and kick you in the soft parts - and it's even worse with later cars. I've no idea if low battery is causing or contributing to your problems but like the servicing checking and charging the car battery (or changing IF needed) is a good idea. If I could remember I'd have put up a link, I'll perhaps see or remember later, I can put links to car battery causing problems or you can take my word for it (though others might disagree). As for reports, apart from errors and wrong assignments it also require that the damages or repairs are reported, lots of pavement type trading with vehicles. HBHLWH57.pdf

Never assume always check, factory could have it wrong (the plugs may go into many other types of vehicles) and the plugs might get knocked or set at incorrect gap. A set of feeler blades, or a tool, are so cheap now - but check what ever set you buy covers the size(s)* you need and that it includes the correct gapping tool too. *You may also want(?) a size for checking or setting "the tappets" / engine valve clearances.

I'm sure the near stalling was covered in another thread and a known fault to it but I can't remember what. Perhaps if you put up another thread with a subject title referring to that it will attract the same posters with possible answers. Good idea to check the cabin filter as a clean one makes a different fan noise (normally they are white but I think you can get a special one that's grey material, hold the existing one up to the light or better still just replace it and then you know for sure). For sounds you can buy cheap four or six way listen units, put them where you think the noise might be and switch between channels to locate or eliminate if you need the car driven best to let someone else drive, or listen, especially if using closed (shell) headphones which would be best to use.

Just leave what is already in there (JCB?), or possibly you could put in whatever three letters you wanted my three letters are 'Bosch' although apparently the Bosch battery is made by Varta. As long as you put the Ah and CCA, though that's debatable given the different specification standards for CCA, possibly it's all just box filling as long as you have the correct battery type, EFB / AGM. - who knows with VW computer programming.

I'm glad you got this sorted, 👍 Xman and others maw_mk1_fabia, I want to give you some advice (or old man's moaning) to help you but think it may not be welcome or appreciated let alone wanted, possibly others have had thoughts similar to mine, or not and may express them.

If it wasn't in limp mode, and drove correctly, I'd just suggest driving it more so the computers pick up things have improved battery wise. The computers (or really their programs) are in charge, wot could possibly go wrong!!??!!

Other than that are your tyre pressure(s) OK and left rear speed sensor not covered in mud/crud/grit/**** or rust.

Did you tell the car it'd got a new battery (coded in the new battery) if not the cars' computers may take a while to cotton, they're very dumb. I don't know this Carista but I'd imagine you'd need the VW specific program to do much with a VW product your mate's scanner might do better (and find other historic error codes, record them then clear the lot).

I've just copied & pasted the address I gave you, in case I'd put in a typo, and it works fine. I thought when I put it it'd become a live hyperlink but it didn't, perhaps I should have used the buttons but as I put the copy & paste works. ETA: no the buttons don't work for email address Cheers.

Sorry about that, they now let all kinds of Spam through but prevent legitimate emails. Sod's Law last time it happened meant I didn't get a message and spent £60 I didn't need to. The technology is marvellous, when it works.

Yeah I think you gave it more than a fair chance, it was just no longer up to the job. I'm not a big fan of these battery testers or modern digital multimeters especially the cheap ones after a use or two and certainly out of guarantee they might work as continuity bleepers but forget the figures. I was bought a more expensive, but not expensive, multimeter and it seems very optimistic with it's readings on my battery. Of course the cheap one are really the most expensive as you have to keep replacing them, what a waste of materials. I'm surprised the old toaster type testers are still sold, good for warming or blistering your hands this time of year. I like my old battery charger as I can tell by the swing needle how low a battery is and how likely or quickly a battery might charge by how much the needle has moved within the first 5-10 minutes.

Cotic, the following link may help you - https://www.blackcircles.com/helpcentre/tyres/how-do-i-find-my-tyre-size Also tyre date code as this can be very useful information that many drivers don't seem to know about. A tyre can be old so perhaps hard through age and lack of use and still have lots of tread left on it so looking good but perhaps not. Obviously yours wouldn't normally be older than 2014 but you never know with used vehicles. - https://www.bridgestone.com.sg/en/tyre-clinic/tyre-talk/tyre-date-code

Although the coolant colours can be anything nowadays the old coolants that you had to change at nominally every two years used to be blue or green and they might not mix well with the later often pink coolants. I don't know VWs confusing system of coolant numbering (other than they seem to keep changing their minds as to what is to be used). When you empty out the coolant, depending on how thorough you are, some or a lot of the old coolant and contaminants residue is left in the system so that will mix with the fresh coolant you put in. The old coolants were IAT, lifted from a site - "IAT (Inorganic Acid Technology) coolant contains either ethylene glycol or propylene glycol, and is generally green or blue in colour. This is the traditional coolant that is used by most classic vehicles. OAT (Organic Acid Technology) is typically found in more modern coolant systems. It is often orange or pink, and should not be mixed with IAT coolant. HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) is commonly used in vehicles from the 1990s onwards. There is no defined colour scheme, and again it should not be mixed with the other types."

Beat me to it. Also the frequency depends on the owner, and as said the environment the car is used and kept in. I would use at least two consecutive tankfuls of "cleaner" diesel such as Shell V-Power for its cleaning additives. For air and fuel, as with computer GIGO garbage in garbage out, if the air going in the engine isn't clean or is restricted it's not going to help the engine or what comes out, same for fuel, and engine oil and filter. Especially for diesels it's SISO, ****e in ****e out. If the air filter was dirty then what's before and after it could also be dirty, did you just replace the air filter or that and clean other stuff like trunking, hoses, pipes, sensors, etc.. Not necessarily depends when the reading was taken, that shows alternator working hard depends if it should have been working hard at that point or not. Check the battery after the car has rested for a good while, put the headlights on for about 10 seconds, switch them off and see what readings you get from the battery on a machine that you have tested or another vehicle to give you an idea of the machine's accuracy. Check the battery post clamps are both tight, check the main earth lead(s) connections are clean and secure, no crud or rust to inhibit them. I know this figure very well as I have to keep telling my wife it - 4.546 - it's a zero after that.

If you mean your car is using a lot of fuel then get it sorted or looked at as soon as possible, a scan tool will help with odd or intermittent problems but high fuel consumption should give a mechanic a good idea of where to look without a scan tool.

I think a slim lad can get under a Jazz whilst it's on its road wheels or am I on Fantasy Island again. I think it might have been a (old) Jazz that my neighbour's daughter had until it had the cat taken from whilst she and her husband were holidaying in Devon or Cornwall.

So provided conditions hadn't changed too much cheezemonkhai real world testing of the battery, after the charging I now assume, and it not being good enough to start the car was a better test and result than the battery tester readout. I owe an apology. cheezemonkhai, I apologises, for doubting you and your charging. Interesting the 380 DIN to 680 EN/SAE which I assume was on the battery label as few conversion charts I've seen have varying figures and reading the requirements gives me a headache. It's as annoying as having a mix of metric and imperialist measurements and threads on my old car, I struggle to see 1mm marks let alone count sixteenths of an inch on a ruler. I don't blame anyone changing their car battery a bit early on these VWs machines with their invasive computer programs, a slight dip in level and the car's computer programs are throwing wobblies of all sorts all over the place, best to accept the computers are the masters. 😄

Is that recorded as a crime involving an offensive weapon?

Though if the battery tester figures are correct and accurate, and provided they can be repeated after a bit of battery use, 68% or even 58% isn't it's all over for the battery but it's not a good base if the battery got a deep charge. It's a shame when these batteries can't fully run out their days perhaps with some lighter work powering something else rather than premature euthanasia. My wife's old Fabia battery is having an easy life over at a mate's home garage but at least it's being used. It's like the batteries in some digital items around the home that need changing but are only half worn they move on to other items and can last years longer in those, LED lights will take the dregs out of them.

I'm not so sure about that, (ETA: Wot!? Sorry a typo/edit mistake or another brain-fade.) had the belt changed last year on my wife's car before I saw all this and they asked about doing the water pump and IIRC they even put something on the paperwork to say it'd been offered - and this is the official Skoda Dealership in Northampton. And they asked about the belt change when my wife went to collect the car from a service after they'd been asked to tell us all the work service required so could budget for it, and at that time they forgot so had to be reminded that the brake fluid change was due. My wife didn't want me to talk with them as I found it rather annoying when she returned home from picking the car up from the service. No matter where the car is made you still have to deal with the English Dealerships (well in England anyway) and apart from the pre-VW Skoda Dealership (they told me build quality actually went down when VW first took over) I've never dealt with a really decent Dealership, they may exist but I've not encountered them.

Is G12 pink colour coolant the original specification coolant? VW don't seem to know what to do about coolant for their later cars with changes in specification, there could be many reasons for these changes, sometimes they just get things wrong but never admit it obviously. Are there any other differences in the three starting scenarios, one or more at high altitude an/or one or more subterranean level 5 car park? Did you do ALL the checks and things suggested to D.FYLAKTOS in this thread?

Sorry forgot a basic question - is your car thoroughly factory standard or have you made changes, modifications, improvements use different parts from factory standard (excluding the sensor and thermostat of course)?