Former

That Amazon link didn't work for me but the image shows on the can label with VW spec 507 00 (504 00 is for petrol) and API SN. The car's 'Owner's Manaul' will give you the engine oil spec VW want (if not the quantity and multigrade). Link requested. - https://www.oilspecifications.org/volkswagen.php Depending on how the mileage is done 10k-miles (9,400 by book IIRC) and once a year would to me be a minimum. For engine oil changes personally I get the oil hot and drain hot - observing safety required - filler cap off and drain for as long as possible. Once old oil and muck is fully out I tip a quanity of fresh clean oil (warmed if required, solar or other) and let than fully drain before replacing sump plug and slowly refilling in stages, to check level. I always stay below 'Max' on the dipstick until the car is on level ground and all the new oil has settled. I usually check and top up the next day or after the first run of the car. Depening on the wet refill quantity your engine requires and what will be left out of 5l you might want to be generrous with the mini-flush I mentioned. Longlife is more of a marketing term, a good oil is a good oil. Some Yanks change their oil every 3k-miles and their engines can hold huge amounts of oil and they travel greater distances, though some using 'fully synthetic' engine oils might change at 5k-miles, but some don't bother much about engine oil changes until the oil sludge starts effecting their engines. I hope all of that helps.

Yes and that is the problem, same for all the other driver "aids" and "assists" on the vehicles now. I know humans are very far from infallible and these systems may sometimes help but I do wonder about more modern drivers that fully rely on them and those that believe computers without question, mental passengers behind the driver controls. As I put I've known some of these systems for decades and have seen improvements but they now seem in a period of a sort of regress in reliability.

Or put some dye in the coolant, if standard coolant and no leak repair liquid have already been added to the coolant. Leak dye kits freely available from the likes of eBay and elsewhere.

I lost my post, so very briefly, it's not just the AA all insurers are after the business of the repair as now your bump could involve up to say a dozen companies each getting revenue and profit from it many of these might be owned by the same larger company/group. A way of spreading and maying more profit for the large companies/groups owners and top management, part of the higher premiums we pay. Some companies will offer to buy the business of the repair from you as there is so much revenue and profit from this that they want it for themselves, sometimes they might even be competing against other companies within their same overall group. All legal of course, these big business have very powerful lobbists.

Unfortunately not, there wasn't any lorries in front and I was told the 80 mph was a regular thing on that stretch of road. We left a 5 mph area on to 30 mph roads and it took a good while for the Tw*tNav (and/or other systems) to realise this, luckily at this point in time the driver can still ignore the stupid thing if not the reminder bleeps for going faster than its programs think you should be. We're just test mules for these systems. I used to drive my neighbour's car on a regular route and that system didn't see the NSL (national speed limit) sign(s) at one point of the route when leaving a 30 mph section so would flash as I went faster than the 30 mph it dictated, no bleeps on that so easier to ignore.

Previous posted edited to remove previous idea with power side as that might cause you a problem.

Hi Jim, 1). I've no idea other than the usual supplier(s) perhaps 2). Has been cover a couple of times on here and perhaps there might be a guide in Classic Skoda Guides orI'll give this shout - @D.FYLAKTOS - to D.Fylaktos who will have all info or know where to find it. 3). Did you check the battery voltage, by putting multimeter probes directly on battery posts, before and after charging and if so what were the readings? Did you check the electrolyte levels in each cell before charging the battery and top up with distilled / de-ionised water as required before charging? Did you clean the battery posts and battery post clamps inside? Did you fast charge the battery (higher amps over shorter time? IF battery is good - try putting a good sound reasonable sized black jump lead from battery negative to starter or nearby engine earth to see if that helps - but obviously be very careful with full battery power at lead(s). And/or do multimeter drop tests on battery posts, then battery post terminals, main (battery) cables and so on to starter motor, earth and power sides. [ edited to remove previous idea with power side as that might cause you a problem ] 4). Never ignore a coolant leak as things can sometimes turn very bad very quickly. Hope that helps. Nice looking machine, nice colour, pity about the grille badge. 😉

Hi, welcome. I think you want the following part of the site for your posting issues and/or deleting your account. I'm posting on Chrome and have put loads of images and pdfs up on my posts and used to use Firefox back a while. New members can certainly post images, perhaps yours are too big and need resizing(?) Hope that helps. "Support Requests Support Requests - Account Help & Membership Queries. Please use this to contact us! Notice: Users cannot see topics posted by others. A private area to contact staff." - see link at bottom of post "Click Here: Rules for the Forum Feedback and Support Area" https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/430-support-requests/

I saw a speed limit of 80 mph for normal 60 mph road on a Tw*tNav last Saturday, bit mischievous for a programer but perhaps these are done by Artificial (yes) Intelligence (no!) having a brain-fart / "hallucination" / plain wrong. I'm sure some Tw*tNaive decuples might believe it like they used to when driving into rivers. :rollseyes: 😄

Yes all that black does seem a bit out of place even for the discolouring in that area but I didn't know if it was some sort of anti-rust coating that had got mucky and furred up. Considering the car sits on the street it's pretty clean in the engine bay. I can't remember what your gaskets might be but if something like paper or cork even cheap ones shouldn't go too far wrong but nowadays I suppose they can.

Well that's about as good as it's going to get. 🙂 Just so you know and/or as an experiment I'd still suggest you charge the battery as much as you can then disconnect the battery monitoring s/s and let the alternator do its work unrestricted/unhindered for a while but not if this will take you away from quite happy.

You might be better looking and asking in the Karoq forum. I don't think pab567 is about much at the moment (family issue) but I might be wrong. As cars now are basically software machines on wheels it could be any one of the various software, firmware or hardware issues, updates, programing errors and omissions, cheap automotive chips, wiring, connectors, other - no I'm not a fan. 😁

Downloading the first four photos, enlarging to 200% and brightening the images I saw nothing from the rocker (valve) cover area - but my eyes and brain aren't the best. As I know you will worry about this I suggest you clean the areas, add dye to your oil and see where there might be a very small leak. You could check the torque on the spark plug(s) to easy your mind there. Really not changing the rocker cover gasket and is a bit of a misstep but I assume there was a reason you didn't supply a new gasket. Sealant on a new gasket on an old car maybe but on an old gasket possibly not so much but it seems to have lasted. ETA: it used to be said of old English engines that if oil wasn't leaking then it had run out of oil, a little bit unfair and certainly applied more to old American engines that held huge amounts of oil and drop it to the ground, more puddles than drops.

Why not try charging the battery to 100% then disconnect the battery monitoring connector on the battery negative (doing away with s/s) and run like that for a while and see what you get. The car won't blow up, battery disintegrate or world end by trying this despite what some think or feel. Give the battery and alternator a bit of an easier time, who knows the holiday might help the battery monitor s/s to return to its normal programmed demands. Who knows the secrets of the VW and their contractors programming, left hand, right hand, upsets with changes of contracts and back again.

I deleted my original answer, but I think it'll go 50/50, knock for knock. How is the AA harassing you?

Perhaps a change of thread title is now needed to something like 'help with infotainment and navigation systems please' or if that's not possible a new thread with a similar title. HTH.

By reading the post I linked to, from that post - "If you want to contact a member for help with VCDS please either hover over their username on their profile or a post they have made, a window will appear with “Send message” either click on this or click on their username and the hyper-link will take you to their profile, from there you can send them a PM. You can also tag them in your post by typing their name after an '@' for example type: @Gizmo and you will get a list of members who's username starts with Gizmo: . . . " [ it then shows examples]. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029 Those with other types of scan tools can also help you, they may list this in their 'signatures' (if your settings show those). HTH.

You would have to ask the garage/Dealership why one year they use the recommended oil specification and the next they didn't. The car's 'Owner's Manual' should tell you the oil specification VW want and alternative if not available. Owner's Manual I guess is in one of the many menus in the car's infotainment or annoying digital version from VWŠkoda's free website. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models VW oil specifications - https://www.oilspecifications.org/volkswagen.php HTH.

All far, far too congested and annoying lights to me but you seem to have got everything in and working so a good result for you.

Have a look at the map too. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029

I've bought some 'atp automotive AT-205 RE-SEAL' to try to spray on what ever 'rubber' bits I can get at without dismantle, might take two goes as it's so noisy on my wife's 2015 and has been for a good few years now. I don't drive the car that often but when I did two winters ago on a cold day I was shocked at how loud it was despite having heard it for years previously in better weather. Some owners spend a lot of time and money trying to stop the noises and aren't successful and as my wife's car was looked at by IIRC the Dealership and an independent garage and they found nothing of concern I've left it as my wife is used to it and has the radio on, it is useful as a reminder to go slower for the raised humps and 3rd-world roads we have anyway. Neither is anything mentioned at any of of the MoTs - other than the front dampers that the Dealership claimed were leaking (at 6 yrs/41k-miles) so fail MoT very expensive replacement by them and the new 2yr-warranty were leaking 11 months later at a service and pre-MoT check by an independent that was used just that once. Back to Dealership for under warranty replacement and they said the dampers were only "misting" which was normal for them (VW ?quality?) and Mot pass without advisory. Following MoTs by (a different and better than previous) independent garage puts the "misting" as an advisory, as they told me they know about the dampers VW fit and would never use them offering better at vastly lower supply and fit cost. HTH.

Hi, welcome. You want the 'Škoda Kamiq' section of the site for information and real world advice from owners and others, I'll 'Report' your post to a Moderator (using the drop down menu from the three-dots at the top right of posts) and ask if this post can be moved to that section.

Hi, welcome. If you've not already looked, as well as the Fabia Mk3 forum you might find more information in the 'Fabia Projects' and 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forums on this site. What you need to know before making any selection of parts is what you want to achieve and your expectations and what you will accept. Not all "upgrades" and "improvements" are improvements and most things on cars are compromises in many ways. Also bear in mind tyres are also an important part of the suspension (and braking and steering) a change of tyres affects grip, handling and ride quality (and noise). If you're looking for spirited driving then further driver training is very good for road driving of all cars and is fully transferable to other cars and future cars at no additional cost. Good luck. Fabia Projects' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/205-fabia-projects/ 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades/

Some take the car manufacturer's recommended interval as a maximum rather than as best or optimum, and where there is no car manufacturer's service interval they introduce one. But all depends on some extent to car use and of course car owner's opinion and expectations and if someone else has to be paid to do the work then of course more additional cost. Gearbox manufacturers may have different recommendations to those of the car manufacturers but of course have to be a bit careful about not upsetting the car manufacturers.

It's not unknown for VW (and others) to have issues with their computer programing, my wife's 2015 Fabia was part of a Recall for "something to do with the battery" (often a convenient excuse to cover a mistake made by someone). The newer the car the more electrical / electronic / computer "aids", "assists" and consumer "comforts" are on the cars so the more for the battery and charging system to cater for so comparing cars now only a few years different is getting less and less relevant. Your car could have a problem but if you like the VCDS figures then battery charges of 86% and 92% and 12.5v and 12.6v look good, at point of time at least.