Former

It depends how deep the scratch is but best to start with a body paint and see if you can cover the scratch so it doesn't show, Straight (original style) T-Cut is a bit harsh to start with and more generally a restorer / renovator. You always try the least abrasive first and only use more abrasive as required. Clean and dry around the scratch, put a fingertip of liquid polish on to a clean microfibre cloth and with one-finger rub the polish into the scratch area back and forth in line with the scratch using a medium pressure, stopping as the polish begins to thin and dry. Allow the polish to haze, this shouldn't take very long, buff out with a second clean microfibre cloth and inspect the result, repeats as many times as required. If after a number of times you don't seem to be getting anywhere then try with the T-Cut but with more caution as it's harsher, if you get the scratch out with T-Cut you will still need a gentle polish. If the scratch is too deep and wide then touch-up paint is required and you may need to apply the paint with a wooden toothpick for narrow scratch and blunt the end for wider scratch as the brushes you get in the cans are normally too wide unless you are good at pinstriping or painting generally. HTH.

I think you have to leave the error code in as they won't believe you or your scan tool or read out.

A pressure fill is what is best practice and if you're getting a kit then you'll be sorted. 2017 would silly German/VW spec G13 coolant for patrial refills but many place will give you the later G12evo which really is a flush out job but they will mix. You can change the coolant without a pressure filler but you might need a bit of nerve and patience if you are the cautious type. Good luck. .

Unless you can adapt the mesh covers that come with the speakers the factory covers will have to remain, given the shape and location the factory covers would look better in my opinion anyway

Take no notice of any wattage it's usually just penis measuring fantasy numbers, like sticking on a Fezza badge of a ropey Fiat. Personally I would look for New Old Stock ones, if they are reasonable priced, that match the player you have fitted. The wattage figures will probably be very modest (but still exaggerated) but a more likely match to a 25 year old player in specifications, fixing and sound. I would look at speakers that were factory fitted in more expensive cars models of 25 or more years ago. Personally anything that needs a big label badge to shout what it is like the blue spot and Blaupunkt and bright blue cone(?) and purple GD wouldn't necessarily say quality to me and I would avoid anyway but each to their own. .

Carefully read the posts and attachments in that thread hayeksban made a simple mistake you might have too. Do make sure your scan tool program is fully updated and battery(ies) are in a good state of charge before you scan, recharge them even if a bit low. Does Autel have a users advice forum like Ross Tech and OBDEleven or other data info that might relate to this? Good luck.

Thanks for reporting back. Be very careful with parts, there are lots of parts manufacturers some just put their label on the parts they get or are made by others, some parts are not so well made as others. Some parts can be abysmal quality or not fully appropriate even if they say they are (particularly sensors for this). Even good brands, or formerly good brands, can have a drop in quality from their former times. Unfortunately it's a bit of a minefield, even VW labelled parts can be short lived blower resistor, front dampers come instantly to my mind. It was a It was a very good idea of yours to check the part works. Always a good idea to check the invoice and box before opening for correct part numbers or references, then the part in its packaging, then if possible test it works properly and fully, then if possible compare it to existing part (assuming that part is correct) and if possible whether the new part fits correctly (again assuming the existing part is fitted correctly). Not only is it annoying to fit a new part for it to go faulty well before it's end of service life it can also be a great deal of time and hassle and large cost associated just with replacing the faulty part, I can assure you of this I've had it many times, same with faulty and/or poor quality work from the English motor trade. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Obviously the new parts have to be correct and fitted correctly and nothing else disturbed in the area and/or relating to the steering and suspension. Have a good look at the posts in that thread - the problem(s) hayeksban, the original poster, had and solved included end stops not learnt (see pdf download of Launch X431). With the Autel scan tool do ensure the program is for your (make) model and year (or VIN) of vehicle, that the program is fully updated before you use the tool, that the car battery and if appropriate scant tool battery are not in a lower state of charge otherwise you may get spurious readings - and particularly with electric power steering you want plenty of battery power as it uses a lot. Your report doesn't show car (or tool if appropriate) battery voltage and I've not really looked too hard at the report but I did wonder at 19. steering angle sensor, angle 448.7 degrees if your steering wheel was dead ahead. Always be very careful when messing with computer programs, do a back up before you start that way you can (should?) reset back to it if required don't necessarily fully trust any scan tool they all have pro and cons and errors and omissions and steering like brakes and systems you want working and not messed up. I don't have the knowledge, training or experience to guide you and certainly not over the internet with text only on such very important car system, others will. hayeksbane had to learn stuff as he went along but he got there.

Lost my reply post (*$^£!% computers and interweb), so, just to cover the cold, apart from the battery condition and or electric load on it and generator, the engine coolant temperature needs to be between 25-100c (unless these figures have changed(?) since the system was introduced in 2009(?)).

Here we are, go from this post in the topic and read as many as necessary or you want, there is a bit of a surprise ending to the matter. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/529566-steering-angle-sensor-reset-fabia-2020-nj/#findComment-5917835 HTH.

If you hover over their site names with your cursor it will show you when they last visited the site, sorry I've no idea how this works on a phone or so call "smart" device (they are not smart at all). Had a thread on this (including over issue, showing how intertwined the car's computer system and programs are) recently I'll have a look and see if I can find it for you and leave a link here, otherwise this subject has been covered on this site and elsewhere, not necessarily with VCDS but the procedure will be the same regardless of scan tool make and program.

No you wasn't at all, what on earth made you put that. You was given good advice, for you to take or leave as you liked, there wasn't any slating at all, you were given links to other forums on this site about tuning performance and tuning upgrades and Fabia Projects, admittedly I forgot this thread, which BTW is in the general Fabia MK3 forum, and you never put you had a driving career (professional driver?) or you already had experience in modify. Other posters and readers can only go on the information you give in the post or perhaps posts and thread. I can see no evidence of anyone in the Fabia Mk3 forum slatting you. That RP reg Golf's speakers installation and tail trim might stir some thoughts in some but most would allow for youthful indiscretion. Some of those that regularly post in the Fabia Mk3 would have been modifying cars probably before your parents were driving let alone you, and after, so have experience and the basics haven't changed in that time, some may well be still modifying their cars now having learnt what are improvements and upgrades and what are not, though cosmetics are highly personal and often more about the fashion of the time. And this post isn't a burn, not even an Indian wrist burn . . . 😄

Hi, welcome. I stay well away from DSG and diesels but others here know plenty about them and there will be posts and threads on the Yeti forum on DSG and general coolant issues. If I've got it right, might not have, the part is a "coolant regulator"(?) or is that something else,(?), but it looks like a stat to me (and abs tube(?)), anyway, are you sure you've got this parts facing the correct way (arrow for flow direction) and instead of adding boiled water directly did you dilute with cold at it opens at 70c?. Have look from about 1:40 on this video for testing old and new parts also see the end where he takes the old part, er, apart. HTH. ETA: wow, I got the name right, time to try the Lottery!. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/1K0121113A/coolant-regulator

What many forget about EVs is that the 12v battery is still very important and needs charge, I believe the systems are supposed to take care of that now (if they actually do in all circumstances) but with older EVs I believe things are less catered for. It would make sense to me now for them to put in some sort of gauge to the 12v battery, I think some cars have something, you might need to get it to display, I don't know, but I expect that might complicate things for some modern, and older, drivers who seem to expect a button or switch to sort everything out for them so they can continue driving how they like regardless of circumstances. The intention at one point at least was for car manufacturers to hire out their products which would be battery power and infotainment centres on wheels for those that used them with the main responsible occupant having as little as possible to do with the driving, preferably nothing and leaving it all to the computer systems and programming - wot could possibly go wrong. 😁

Yeap that car certainly had hand crank winders which I much prefer, less weight and less to go wrong. My last (everyday) car was from 1973 with very little electric stuff on it even for that period so as you can guess I'm not particularly a fan of very modern cars or the over reliance of computer programs in them so I'm with much of what you put. But I do disagree about reading and referring to the the manual, of course there is far too much in them now and with VWŠkoda ones I've seen some missing information that'd be very useful and is in other manufacturers' Owner's Manual. Having to push the button twice isn't too much hassle but I take your point if the windows are too fast about stopping them where you want, I get that on the 2015 Fabia and the windows are not that fast. Things are progressing but perhaps not always in the right direction. I think many of the car manufacturers are a bit out of their depth with the computer systems and the programming, the systems are more about cost than being cutting edge, the German marques for decades have had lots of complicated computer stuff on them so they should be good at it by now but VW at least seemed at one point at least to be more interested in having these things for their benefit more than their customers' benefit. They might be heading towards another slap on the wrist, with others, when they ran from diesels to electrics and forgot to stop the playing around with figures. There again even the Japanese started adopting American corporate management styles and fiddling. But other than that, at least it's a sunny day (here anyway) . . . 🙂

You could try carefully cleaning the front "assist" sensor area at the front of the car it might (or might not) just be a bit of stuck debris, or flapping object, or just dirty. Perhaps look for any possible signs of impact to the area from whatever that may effect the area or sensor. Have a look at your car's Owner's Manual for what the Front "assist" is and what does and how it reacts, under Front Assist - Functionality - ,Automatic braking in the event of a collision. May be not on this but on other things if you read the Owner's Manual and refer to it when required it could save you future time, hassle and unnecessary money spent on visits to Dealerships, garages, mechanics and auto-electricians as it contains a lot of useful information about the car. HTH. VWŠkoda website for Owner's Manuals. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models

Yes. Some links below, how much it can recover is very dependant on things like I've outlined previously but if the battery has been recharged previously then if the battery is in a reasonable state of charge and health and the charger isn't going against too much load of the car and some of the stuff owners/drivers leave connected when the car is not in use then at worst it will slow the drain at least a bit, or it might be able to maintain or add to existing state of charge. As Tesco has it every little helps (unless the battery was/is too used, abused neglected already). Auto Express - Best solar chargers for car batteries 2024 - the test is for 'fun' cars that are locked up and not used over winter (what a waste of potential fun), - "These are not designed to charge a flat battery but should help with the natural discharging and power used by alarms, dash cams and clocks." "We also checked the conditioners would not overcharge a battery or take power out of it in darkness." - https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/exclusive/43793/best-solar-chargers-car-batteries-2024 Ring (pictorial) instruction booklet. - https://shop.ringautomotive.com/media/catalog/product/file/G15118871_UI_RING_Solar_Power_Battery_Maintainer_MiCh_WWW_02_2.pdf G15118871_UI_RING_Solar_Power_Battery_Maintainer_MiCh_WWW_02_2.pdf

Hi, welcome Wylee. There are definitely some Aussies on this site, well I've seen at least one that I can remember (Gascan Jerry if I remember the name right). If you don't get more or better replies here you could have a look at the Octavia Mk2 forum for this issue and/or post in there. Skoda Octavia Mk2 (2004 - 2013) forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/28-skoda-octavia-mk2-2004-2013/ HTH. Good luck. Wylee (Willy?)

Hi, welcome. Some quick thoughts were all the parts correct for you model, year, engine, VIN and fitted correctly have you got and checked a full scan tool report - (from a scan tool appropriate to your car with scan tool program fully up to date before readings and car and if appropriate scan tool batteries in a good state of charge) have you checked and got any scan tool live data have you checked for common problems with 2008 Octavia Mk2 2.0TDi 125kW CR and/or the CEG(A) engine was the coolant pressure refilled and coolant level checked after first starting the engine and first drive. If you don't get any more and better answers from here you could have a look in and/or post in the Octavia Mk2 forums or other forums and threads about the 2.0TDi 125kW CEG(A) engine. You don't say or have on your logo info what country you are in this may make some difference to the car or none at all, I don't know. Skoda Octavia Mk2 (2004 - 2013) forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/28-skoda-octavia-mk2-2004-2013/ HTH, good luck.

Bazz lift your cap a little at the front and read the Owner's Manual for your car and you could save yourself a lot of time and hassle and money from unnecessary visits to Dealerships, garages, mechanics and auto-electricians - and be able to drop your windows as much or little as you want. From the Owner's Manual for a 2023 Fabia - "Press the control down and the window opens automatically. Pressing the control again will stop the opening process." - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models

That would be a reasonable prevention but it does depend on how much load is plugged into the 12v socket and left live when the car is parked up and engine not running as then that power is coming off the battery, low constant draws add up over time. It also depends how low and how often the battery is in a low state of charge, if this has been going on for too long and too often then at some point even a mains battery charger maintainer can only do so much to restore as much as possible but a solar charger might help slow the decline a bit. If the solar charger is used before the battery gets too low too often then it will help more. Losing start/stop when it should be active is the first sign that the battery is in a lower state of charge and if driving the car is insufficient then the accumulated effect of the battery not being able to activate start/stop will have an effect at some point unless the issue is resolved, better sooner than late - and the effect will be more noticeable sooner on a 2023 car than most earlier years. In my wife's 2015 model VW want to replace the expensive battery at 5 years old, then the change to 4 years old but there's no reason that most drivers/owners shouldn't get many more years life out of the batteries with simple, very easy, clean-hands occasional use of a suitable battery charger maintainer, or plugged-in as much as possible with a solar charger. Some VW owners with 2019 and newer have reported they've changed their 12v batteries at 3 and 4 years old, fine for those that want to.

Some places that change batteries can do it for you, possibly at an additional cost. Or there is a train of thought that some apply that if the new battery is the same type as previously fitted (and 'coded') and the same Ah rating, or near enough, that the system will sort things for itself. Some have posted on this site they have done that and things have been fine x-number of years later. Whether over the long term the battery life is shorten would take time and circumstances to tell. I don't think there's too much of a panic that the new battery must be 'coded' instantly it's installed. If you have the facilities available then it makes sense to 'code' the replacement battery but if you buy a scan tool only to 'code' the battery in then it doesn't make financial sense if that costs more than getting someone else to do it. There are Briskoda members with VCDS and other tools that can 'code' the battery in, and do scan tool reports, delete error codes and some a lot more. Most just want beer tokens, a few are professional services so want different renumeration. A link to a list of those members at the end. Who ever does the 'coding' like all data input it has to be accurate, one member posted that his professional auto-electrician put 7 Ah instead of 70 Ah which gave the replacement battery a short life (why VW's computer program allowed this error is beyond me). It's important to put the type of battery (EFB/AGM) the (correct) Ah rating and change the "serial number", as illustrated below when a Briskoda member 'coded' my AGM replacement battery (VW call AGM "fleece", of course they do!) for me with his OBDEleven. ETA: battery manufacturer is of no importance, as you can see I didn't even bother sticking with VW's three letter code, also as you can see the factory didn't bother with a real "serial number" on my wife's car or others that have been posted. List of VCDS and others owners. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029

Hi, good point, sorry it does look a bit like that but it's not, this was just a quick photo I took on a cold night, the charger maintainer earth lead is connected to an earth lead connection point on the body of the car. I hope this shows it more. -

Yeap it was a race to the bottom but as the Yanks found getting things as cheaply as possible from China wasn't a good idea. My neighbour gets so much very, very cheap stuff from China, some of it quite reasonable but most not, that he gets offered tokens for "free" stuff and has offered me a few bits often they are a complete waste of resources, a few might last one use I expect. I used to order parts for my "classic" (over-priced, over-valued very old) car(s) so I know the problem of quality goes back decades and a good number of years ago I wondered how it would take to expand to the used car and newer car parts market. My "classic" car owned as tight-fisted so customer demand for low priced and as few actually drive let alone use the "classic" they own durability means a lot less than the lowest retail price. One response was to offer good quality parts (i.e. previous quality or higher) at higher retail price, this wasn't too successful as the moany old gits and those that didn't know (or want) better still carried on buying the cheap parts in their masses. Another option was to have an even lower price and quality range, the following is just one example from Front Line Ltd. - "Plus, in 2012 the company responded to its customers feedback to introduce a competitive alternative to the First Line and Borg & Beck premium quality ranges. The Key Parts brand was introduced and caters for only the high-volume references for selected ranges and is aimed at meeting the price conscious side of the aftermarket. See the Key Parts site to learn more." - https://www.firstline.co.uk/AboutUs Don't go with VWŠkoda for front dampers if they're the same quality as my wife's 2015 ones, replaced after 6 years, replacements "misting" after 11 months use and I'm with you I don't know how good their bushes are given all the noises on my wife's car. If you can get a good make and set of polybushes and fit them correctly they should be good in (standard road) performance and longevity, whose and what these are sorry I don't know. Cheers, Nigel.

If the likes of Breezy_Pete can't think of an easy electrical solution other than a switched multi-socket then there probably isn't one. Things I can think of quickly put something on the socket end of the plug lead, perhaps a keyring with something on it he needs to be able to start work so can't leave it in the car and needs to unplug from the socket to take the necessary item(s) with him (I hope that makes sense) keep the battery in good state of charge by using a battery charger maintainer there if possible (a plug-in as I'm not sure a solar would keep up) or use one at other times replace the battery with a new one (very wasteful to me) a good quality reliable jump starter (though I'm not too sure you want to use it too often) you're married so give him a good verbal b*ll*cking 🙂 let him learn from his mistakes. 🙂