nta16

No, petrol treatment, there's a range but would guess this one. - https://redexadditives.com/products/petrol-system-cleaner/ Or this one perhaps for MoT. - https://www.redexadditives.com/products/redex-petrol-pre-mot/

Do so as plugs are so often missed and can also look fine and still be working but be beyond their best and well beyond their optimum and normally they are relatively inexpensive. Watch out for cheap counterfeits buy from a good reliable source. Personally I favour NGK and never favour too much on a car with a Bosch label. ETA: new good sparkplugs gapped correctly can make sometimes make a surprising difference to how the engine runs and power and fuel economy, not talking miracles but good value for cost and effort (n older cars).

Yeap I take your point but for those that want to much better oils are available today over a wider selection. I don't think R_Blue's car would ever need an oil cooler if it was in the UK. I might be tempted to say for such cars and their VW engines VW might need to put on oil coolers to cover car and engine mistakes and compromises but of course I'd never suggest such. Did I ever mention Škoda quality went down when VW first took them over. 😁 ETA: I find I can remember the keyboard shortcut for Š, must have sunk into my shrivelled brain subliminally .

It's not been confirmed that there is an issue with oil pressure but an oil pressure gauge might well help to confirm or refute plus the gauge will show pressure at different points and circumstances so that if there is an issue it can be seen when this starts, continues and stops and in relation to other gauges' readings and the driving circumstances to the engine at those times. An oil temperature gauge is useful to confirm when the oil has fully warmed up or possibly if it's getting too warm/hot but the coolant gauge seems to be doing a reasonable/good job already, an engine can run with cold or hot oil but not so well without pressure. An oil pressure gauge will probably show dramatic oil loss (say from an oil pipe off or cut or whatever) more instantly that the oil temperature gauge. The standard old British sportscars had oil pressure gauges rather than oil temperature gauges, when I had one with an oil temperature it just gave me more to worry about when driving the car in winter and driving circumstances precluded the car in a way to warm the oil quicker. If you put a pressure gauge in your car it would perhaps give you a little more info into the various engine oils - but also more to worry about.

Sorry, I normally check that links work before posting but not if it involves downloading any Apps or programs, I've already got far too many Microsh1t "Apps" and programs I don't want and will never use so I loathe to add more. Contact Skoda UK and ask them (to do what they should do anyway).

I forgot to put your car seemed to go very well up that climb at those speeds and temperatures, if you were only showing 84c, or around that, coolant temperature then perhaps you might be better served at the moment (and future) with an oil pressure gauge than oil temperature gauge, at least for now if only a temporary installation.

I wouldn't rely too much on not being too many differences but I found there a link for '2024 Skoda Kamiq Owner’s Manual'. - https://manual-directory.com/manual/2024-skoda-kamiq-owners-manual/ However Skoda UK should help you out with this as it is a duty of theirs to provide accessibility where they can and they certainly could with this. Great idea to read the Owners Manual before you get the car, better still read it when considering the car before buying it if you can.

I just remembered something I forgot to put before. Some buy s/hand wheels (sometimes with tyres) from places like this site's 'Marketplace' section, eBay or other sites and sellers. Or try for a swap with someone that wants smaller (or bigger) set of wheels (and tyres) in the 'Marketplace' or elsewhere. Or perhaps even post in 'Marketplace' 'Items Wanted'. 'Wheels & Tyres For Sale' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/333-wheels-tyres-for-sale/ 'Swap Zone' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/272-swap-zone/ 'Items Wanted' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/404-items-wanted/

From 2019 Owners Manual - "Central locking system The system unlocks and locks all doors, the fuel filler flap and the boot lid at the same time. Unlock indicator: double flashing of the indicator lights. Lock indicator: single flashing of the indicator lights. The warning light in the driver's door will flash for about 2 seconds in quick succession after the vehicle is locked, then it will start flashing regularly at longer intervals." Are you sure the boot, all doors and fuel cap are all locked after pressing the button? Have you checked to see if the warning light in the driver's door operates as above? - "Central locking fault The warning light in the driver's door first flashes for 2 secs in quick succession. Then it lights up continuously. After 30 secs, it flashes slowly." Might not do anything but as it's free, quick and easy have you tried synchronising the keyfob (see "Mechanically unlocking and locking the door" in Owner's Manual for more details - "Synchronize the key [fob] as follows. Press one of the buttons on the key [fob]. Unlock the door within 1 minute with the key [blade] via the locking cylinder"

In my experience of looking up and cross referencing oil filters amalgamation of databases for various car models and applying supersedes the end databases have errors so because as what they sometimes say will, or perhaps will not, fit or be suitable, or perhaps be unsuitable, can be wrong. Also they sometimes list a part that will only fit specific models in a range without making that clear or at all.

That would be my point, the car is static and not going along the road, though of course heavy load on the engine would warm things. I did notice the the needle of the water gauge rise and was lower at end so assumed the electric fan(s) had cut in, I'd hope that R_Blue's oil didn't get to 140C given his water temp readings but I don't know the car, engine, weather and climbs. I also wondered about the pickup position and placement, how well the thermistor is embedded and insulated in the sandwich plate as the exhaust looked fairly close to it and filter but perhaps it isn't and there's cooling air that gets there. My wife's 2015 1.2 TSI usually shows [ETA; oil temperature* of ] 96c, summer or winter, I have had it in treble digits when I gave the car a couple of blow-out runs for a few miles on reasonably mild day and cold night weather (above freezing though) this was with no passengers or luggage or rubbish (well nothing that weighed anything) in the car, flat road, constant speed. * ETA: biased gauge needle for coolant remains at rocky steady 90c as far as I've noticed

I'm no ta tyre, wheel or suspension expert, nor an engineer or mechanic. Depending on the brakes the car could easily take a 14" wheel and tyres but if 15" is the smallest size VWSkoda specify for your model and year then that would be the size I'd go for. And for rough roads personally I'd go for steel wheels which along with the tyres may well work out lighter than the 16" alloy wheel and tyre combination you have fitted now. Do check all figures and facts I give as I could have looked at incorrect sources or they've made mistakes. I believe smallest VWSkoda have for your year and model is 15" so tyres same as on my wife's 2015 1.2 SE with 185/60 r15 tyres. 185/60 r15 tyres against 215/45 r16 gives nominally 0.6" (15 mm) 15.8% more sidewall height(but the tyre's design, build and composition will effect ride and comfort and flex). The factory wheels that you have on now appear to be 7Jx17 ET46 and appear would be 6Jx15 ET38 for 15" wheels, so that is going from 7" wide rim to 6" rim wheel to accommodate the narrower tyre. If the 175/70/R14 doesn't have the restrictive stickers on for speed and use and your Owner's Manual doesn't tell you otherwise (are you sure there's no stickers on the spare wheel) then in theory you drive as normal but that wouldn't be good even if the wheel and tyres were the same size as the ones on the car as unless the tyres are all the same make, model, age and use you will be having two different tyres on the same axle which is OK but not best. Now look at what you would have on your car, a 215/45 r16 tyre that is around 5 years age and use, H rated against the presumably never used 175/70/R14 tyre of a different speed rating and probably different make and model, one tyre is wider than the other side and other axle. I'd only use it as a get-me-home. In fact I didn't carry a spare wheel in many of my cars for over 30 years just a a good manual footpump (I dislike the wheezy electric ones you get as repair kit) - but that's all another subject and it seems to upset some.

No, sorry I was referring to Papez's video about the TC6 oil temperature fitting.. In my posts with suggestions I see I made a good few typos but I hope you got what I meant. For engine breathing do double check you've put everything back as it should be and that there are no blockages and check any vacuums (do you have servo brakes).

215/45R16 is a fashion decision, overwide and too small on the sidewall but you're stuck with it unless you downsize a lot with the wheels and tyres - otherwise as put you could look at your tyre pressures and go for lowest recommended for your car, tyre size and car loading. Perhaps a different make and model of the same tyre size may be a little better and the fact the tyres would be new on the car and not 5 years of aged use and sitting around on the car but there's the cost and research to find a more comfortable tyre for possibly little gain because of the silly wheel size. I've had tyres split on the inside where you don't see them in a few years and about 20k-miles use and would never judge a tyre over the internet or by photos, perhaps unless they were very high resolution so they could be zoomed in a lot but even then it's an image on a screen so may not be entirely accurate. Tyre fitters are often very eager to replace tyres prematurely but there are still some decent and honest workers about that don't, finding them is the difficulty.

You still get a paper printed Owner's Manual on a 2023 car that's great, I was under the impression they were a thing of the past. My wife's 2015 Fabia doesn't give the detailed information your Hyundai did and instructs you to look at the label inside the fuel filler door for actual figures To be fair to Kwik Fit as I put before on their website they do put - "Tyre pressure information should be used as a guide. For the most accurate tyre pressure information for your vehicle, please consult your handbook or check inside the door of the fuel cap." On my wife's 2015 Mk3 the ice-scrapper is see-through so the label with tyre pressures can still be read, I don't think either of us has ever used that ice-scrappers we just use ones I bought years ago, well before this car.

You owners in hot countries would know better than me but start at 17c cold going to 108c seems high to me, was the engine running at the end of the video or heat soak after engine was turned off?

Hi, welcome. Which gearbox DSG or manual, how many gears? Others may know of any particular problems. In case you or others haven't check if there are any, admitted, recalls. - Škoda Recall Campaigns - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns

We tried the "eco" pressure setting on my wife's 2015 Mk3, plus 5 psi (0.3 bar), and didn't like the ride or handling, not that the ditchfinder Nexen tyres were that great anyway and the Fabia has a bit of a wobbly chassis anyway. I suppose, as the advert goes, every little helps but it's a bit ironic suggesting "eco" in a heavy modern vehicle with oversized wheels and tyres when much of the time only the driver or perhaps one passenger is in the car but we all like to kid ourselves now and again. 😃 Given how far the car would roll forward under its own steam with foot off the accelerator I would guess there might be some mpg gain at "eco" pressure but I can't remember checking or if I did I've forgot, mpg for me is more about checking the engine isn't running too badly.

Always double and then treble check any information you get from any source, including manufacturers; websites and databases, and cross-reference with two reliable sources of info if possible, errors and omissions are in all databases and certainly some info off the internet. I'm not saying anything is wrong, Kwik Fit cover this in your hyperlink with - "Tyre pressure information should be used as a guide. For the most accurate tyre pressure information for your vehicle, please consult your handbook or check inside the door of the fuel cap." ETA: also you can have variables with tyre pressures by what you use to record them and when but if things are reasonably accurate and you keep consistency in recording then you won't be too far off to worry about regardless.

Depends which age of Mini and the gauge, I, IIRC, on my last Spridget had four different dual gauges (oil pressure/water temp) one returned as it didn't register the same as the two before and one after and I contacted the "Smiths" manufacturer (carbolt-ish sort of name) in Wales and learnt about their calibration for the water, this was closed ether tube with end bulb type of system not electric sender and gauge type. My coolant needle was well before the 'N' on the gauge for normal running, others owners worried about the needle being on the 'N' and the 'N' 80-somthing C, I always said to look at the combined gauge and if it showed about 5 to 10 passed 7 as a clock that was fine, if mine got to 'N' it meant it was a bit warmer than normal so I set the variable control for the electric fan to keep the needle before 'N'. D.FYLAKTOS would have a heart attack if he had B V8 with numbers on the dual gauge, oil pressure at idle being so low and water temp when it gets really hot and the needle pushing into the bigger numbers on the oil pressure part of the gauge. A mate had a Rover P5B and at tickover the oil pressure needle barely rose and even clogging along the needle didn't raise itself too much, I can't remember if it changed with the TVR 4l engine, such a heavy car (not compared to todays lardy cars) I can't remember that much difference in performance to the original 3.5 but I only drove it a few times with each engine. I did notice on following him back from the NEC the very small rear tail lights on a grey car out in the dark countryside a reflective rear numberplate would have sorted that but of course black goes with grey (to, too, many).

Before that check your scan tool program is up to date for your car and that it's suitable for your car model and year, both can throw up problems with reports.

I would probably give greater acceptance to the digital thermometer than the IR gun pointing at different surfaces and a set positioning on a stand/tripod and not knowing its reliable accuracy and calibration checking from new, the thermometer could have it's own issues but is more likely to be used in the same manner each test and a, hopefully, acceptable range of accuracy in tests.

Just for further context and the car being available, below is a photo from my wife's 2015 Mk3 Fabia - for our younger viewers, please don't have nightmares about seeing 14" wheels referenced. These cover tyre sizes 185/60 r15 to ridiculous 215/40 r17 (don't know about 14") - I don't know how much heavier the Mk4 might be than the Mk3 or if the suspension set up changed (hopefully improved). Note the columns for "eco" pressure setting - which make a noticeable difference to the tyres' rolling resistance and general handling.

Yes sorry, crazy psychedelic images though man, get the josh sticks out and early Pink Floyd or Tangerine Dream on the deck. I'm sure Scotty done a vid of what goes on the phone, as I put I'd not rely on any free or low priced App - but those are wild images man, far out. 😍 At least you can distinguish the different parts easier than a standard photo of a grey engine and lots of black bits on it, and much more interesting with different filter or adjustments to image on or off the phone it might be useful to pick out parts rather than areas of heat.

Haynes isn't always correct with details - they have a good museum though and have at least one of our members cars in their collection and they have invited our club their to use the little running track so I declare an interest and don't knock them too much (well not often). That's fair enough but would you want an oil cooler for -18c winter weather. I used my Spridgets and all other modern and "classic" cars through all winters and the Spridget coolant gauge did not get too far from the 'C' for cold on some winter days runs and they did not have oil coolers (with or without oilstats) and I had removed the engine driven cooling fan on the last Spridget so the engine would warm up quicker and have more chance not to cool more when driving around town. ETA: presuming it get some airflow there that is a better position for the oil cooler than in front of the water cooling rad.