nta16

It's a great pity more women aren't involved with cars more but that gender has more sense to waste there time on such trivia as cars. I wish there were more women as mechanics and running and owning more in the motor trade particularly in the UK (and of course Germany for this marque).

You can get different results with different oils that meet the same weight number be it 5w-40 or whatever. I use 5w-40 number(s) as an example number(s) only. One 5w-40 can be a lot different to another 5w-40. it might be that some, none or all of a particular weight number suit a particular engine. Some oils can move out of their stated number particularly in protracted use, a 5w-40 may soon become a 5w-30. There are many variables things aren't cast in stone. There can be generalisations, these old design engines may not generally suit "thinner" oils. One, say 5w-40 again, engine oil may be "thinner" than another 5w-40 oil particularly in use and extended use. Try getting that certificated. 😆 It's almost (not) poetry. 🤣

Fair enough but you could/would have done a more thorough job of changing the gear oil and cleaning the cooling/heating system and possibly rubber bushing than most garages/mechanics, if only because you own the car and really care about it.

I'd no idea the Scala had active suspension that introduces more variable but I'd have thought the active suspension would dealt with more variations than just mechanical suspension. The 15mm lower might mean less bounce room for rough roads so slightly "stiffer" set up give a "harsher" ride particularly on rough roads. I'd not have expected the new tyres to make so much difference, difference perhaps yes. Just noticed you've got a 2021 car, and you say a production label was miss of it, that makes me wonder about the active suspension but if it was good previously . . . I don't know if there are any Aus owners in the Scala forum but if you've not already done so you could have a look and/or ask there if there are any and ask them what pressure they run the tyres at on rough roads. - Škoda Scala - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/384-škoda-scala/ I don't know if F1s go back further than the later 80s it was just the first time I could afford decent tyres, I didn't own a car from 1979 -1985 just pushbikes, and by no stretch of the imagination was the Škoda Estelle 2 130 a sportscar but it was a driver's car particularly if you wanted to drive it, much like most cars until about 20 years ago, and simply adding some good tyres and nothing else added more sparkle. When the importer (Škoda UK?) got them into the UK they put on alloy wheels (never usually my choice I prefer steel) and different tyres anyway. 1200kg on-road car could be on 165 width tyres though you might want 185 for185lbsft (250 nm) but I can imagine modern car owners being in tears seeing their cars on 14" wheels with 185/80 r14 tyres, work clothes and shoes instead of party frocks and high heels. 😆 IIRC the Scala can have 16" wheels here, how good the alloys look I'd not know as I don't particularly like or dislike the look of alloy wheels, though some do look ugly to me but that's of no matter, I like steel wheels with chrome hub caps. It'll be interesting to hear how you get on with your replacement tyres.

Just seen I forgot to paste the Kwik Fit quote in my previous post, it should have shown - To be fair to Kwik Fit as I put before on their website they do put - "Tyre pressure information should be used as a guide. For the most accurate tyre pressure information for your vehicle, please consult your handbook or check inside the door of the fuel cap."

I meant why didn't you wait until now, when you are at home on your vacation and not working on a city street, and do the cooling system cleaning more thoroughly and G12 refill yourself rather than paying someone to do it whilst you were in the city?

When I had more money I used to give tyres a 1,000 miles to see if I got used to the handling but that was on sportscars, unless the tyres are really bad now I put up with them until time to change. I'm not sure a mass market standard VW product will be that sensitive in the suspension or that it'll be centrifugal forces, to me it'll be like many you underestimate how complex a component tyres actually are, the design, build, composition and compounds must suit the needs and wants of the car, roads, environments, weather and yourself. Things must be different in Aus to UK as budget Chinese tyres you certainly don't buy for their handling and comfort most are rock hard ditchfinders and have crazed or cracked to MoT failure within a few years but have plenty of tread left despite how little or much mileage and use they've had. You seem to be - as is the fashion for decades now and it's your choice so suits you and nothing wrong with that - concerned about the visual cosmetic of the tyre size but I think you've misunderstood the function side, the car weight is about the wheel diameter (and getting over the brakes) and at 1200kg that could have 14" wheels for weight. Within a few size stages going wider doesn't generally give more grip or better handling in itself as you have found it's more about the tyre. Over here it's generally accepted that higher tyre pressures can give better fuel economy (by lowering the rolling resistance of the tyre) but the handling and ride suffer a little, with my wife's 2015 Mk3 Fabia we tried the VWŠkoda 'Eco' tyres pressure setting which I didn't mind as the Fabia isn't the best handling chassis in the world anyway but my wife insisted the tyres were put back to standard pressure as she didn't like the ride or the handling (correct suitable tyre pressures are very important to the tyres, car, driver and passengers). I've no idea what F1 tyres are unless they're the current version of the Goodyear Eagle F1 (165/80 r13) that I put on my (non-VW) Škoda Estelle 2 in the late 1980s (rear wheel drive, rear engine, 62(?)hp, 940kg - great fun) and those were great tyres on the car but I wore the tread down too quick for what I could afford at the time but they were great fun whilst on the car. ETA: in the UK we've had 3rd-world condition roads since we had to bail out very wealthy bankers huge severance and pension packages after they dropped the country in the ****, 2008(?) (late 1980s roads were generally good condition)

@jimmyjazzz you don't want to take a wheel off unless you have to (as I put it's a PITA and possibly back) take up either offer of looking them up for you. I can understand your lack of interest in cars (only certain cars interest me and none of them are modern or VW products) and I've removed wheels on my wife's Fabia and never noticed the part number, size yes part number no, and why would I or you if you are not specifically looking for it, You might generally look at the inside of the wheel and the inside face of the tyre (two of my tyres had cracks in them which you'd never normally see with the wheels fitted).

Sorry my posts must appear sour to you too, but hopefully with good info and advice - you don't have to be a VW fan to post here - and normally Paws4Thot gives advice freely without comment but we all have off times. We all have to learn for a first time, or if you're old like me relearn or be reminded. I've like some cars for a few decades (not VWs or Mercs) and I knew sizes could be on wheels but not often car manufacturers parts numbers, I will give credit to VW for having parts numbers on their stuff but unfortunately not much cop if you have to get at a difficult to get at part to see the number and if some of the parts were made better you might not be replacing some of them so soon. But as you can tell I'm biased against VW, particularly and more so since my wife bought one of their products. You're very wise not to be interested in cars but if you don't already know (not for this info but others) you can save yourself time, hassle , money and unnecessary visits to Dealership/garage/mechanic/auto-electrician by reading and when required referring to the 'Owners Manual'. If you don't have the paper printed version free VWSkoda downloadable pdf copies from this VWSkoda website. -https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models My second bit of advice to you, keep on top of the 12v car battery charge and do not let it go low, just because the engine starts and the lights seem bright enough and there are no warning messages or lights doesn't mean the battery charge isn't too low for the computers and they can punish you for this mistake with later putting up all sorts of unexpected error lights and messages and unseen error codes. If you don't like changing expensive batteries prematurely (and possibly sorting 'coding') you can use an appropriate battery charger for restorative, or better still preventative, recharging and have the battery work better for much longer. Škoda Recall Campaigns (well those they admit to) - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns Update portal - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ If you got this far, don't be put off asking for more info if you ned it in future, we're not the only two here. 😆 Good luck.

Hi, welcome. I'll call a member here that can list all the info for you - @Carlston to save you the need to take the wheel off to see the inside as the bloody silly German engineers use wheel bolts instead of nuts on fixed wheel studs, this makes putting the wheel back on not only a PITA job but also if you don't have a garage lift potentially a pain in the back, guess how I know. Best to have the help of at least one better two wheel alignment tools (or four if you're swapping wheels around.

If you do just live with it until your next regular coolant change as your coolant temperatures have been good then at next regular change so the clean again. Why couldn't you have done the more thorough cleaning I put up for someone else now for yourself, whilst you were back home on vacation and not working on a city street?

True but activity on the thread might highlight it to others with the issue, perhaps it's a batch fault or programming issue to certain cars of a certain age or perhaps Headphone's car "is the only", "no one else has this problem, just you". 😉

Sorry my bad memory I thought it was 25% or 35%. All else fails you can take the cap off and look inside.

Isn't that to do with the dilution ratio you chose. As I remember it G12 is pink but men often have some level of colour blindness. I think you've had enough of mixing liquids in your coolant. 😉 😆 Put something behind the the tank to give more contrast, hand, glove, sleeve, hat, scarf, tool roll, shadow, sunlight, whatever works.

Hi, welcome. Surely a miss-fuel would be where either you had put the wrong fuel in the car (I done that once) or the pump had the wrong fuel delivered from it and yours was the one and only or one of very few vehicles to do so before that pump(s) and any others were shut down otherwise it'd surely be local news, I can't imagine too many keeping quiet if they thought Tesco or Sainsburys were selling duff fuel (more likely a load of duff old cars and their owners rushing to fuel there). If you know anyone with an appropriate level scan tool also appropriate to your model and year car and they keep the program for your car and model up to date you/they could plug it in and get a full report and see what else it might show as often many are too lazy to clear everything. Briskoda members that offer their scan tools, some for beer tokens, a few professionally, you could see if there are any that are close and have the program for your model and year. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) Later as another subject it'd be interesting to know about which previous new Fabias you had and how you found they compare to each other.

Part or all of this might be down to you cleaning the cooling/heating system.

Short answer from me, no you can't.

A few days, perhaps internment then or poor connection or wire then, I assume the airbag light works and you have checked it and its connections. You also show a footwell light(?) error code has that been dealt with. Other is the scan tool you are using suitable for your VW make and year and is its program for your make and model fully up to date otherwise you can sometimes get errors in its reporting, other than that sorry I don't know. You could also try asking on Diagnostics & VCDS - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ Good luck.

Driving my neighbour's Ren-No! Cashcow on a NSL bit of road we go on every week and it's 30 mph signage is flashing on and off as it thinks I'm speeding, coming back in the other direction it must see the NSL sign as there's not flashing dash symbol - either that or it's a 30 mph road going in one direction and NSL in the other lane from the other direction, after all the computer knows best and it doesn't lie, that's why some used to follow the Tw*tNav and drive into a river. 😆

True, also some prefer them. In 2005 my neighbour got a little runabout (Kia Picanto) car bought for him to replace his 24 year old Ford Capri 2.0S that his dad bought brand new, his dad at 71 wanted alloy wheels on the new car despite it being no more than a run-around shopping-trolley and him never being a fast or confident driver. That had rear disks as part of the model spec. Off topic warning I had the 1981 Capri and run it for a couple of years, it wasn't perfect but was the "classic" I spent the least on to keep it going well and it went on to a Capri enthusiast as the car was so original and relatively low mileage (less the 100k-miles when I got it at 24 years) it was used as an everyday car parked on the street and he turned into a show car which I saw at our club's annual shows and a few NECs. The car AFAIK is still on the road now with another 100k-miles on it (MoT'd at the last required in 2021 at 40 years old and current "road rax") . I would have bought the 2005 Kia Picanto as it's better to drive and more fun than the other cars I drive (2023 Ren-No! Cashcow (9k-miles on it), 2016 Vauxhall Corsa (8k-miles on it) and 2015 Fabia (65k-miles on it), but his son took it back and it sits rusting in his garage waiting to see if his Micra runabout passes the next MoT. For those interested a 2017 (Adrian Flux Insurance) vid of the Capri. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TtOOE94aAEQ

Will the error codes not delete?

I think there are waits on Dealership workshops generally. I wonder how long before cars are practically a write-off when out of warranty because sensors and computer programs can't be sorted. I think the phrase "cheap as chips" is from the quality of the chips that some/many car manufacturers use, probably worth more as antiques.

Depends on your needs and wants, for this issue perhaps a temporary pressure gauge might be useful, a temperature gauge less useful. Neither is needed and the car has survived decades without either. An oil temperature gauge I think is useful on modern (and old) cars if the cars do lots of short very journeys as it might show the owner/driver that the oil doesn't get fully warmed by those very short journeys which isn't good for the oil that helps look after the engine.

Arh, the benefits of driver aids and safety measures. 😁 No wonder those little delivery robots are going up. down, round and across all terrains of the pavements and roads trying to learn more for the vehicles (and military) of the future. My wife's 2015 Mk3 has only played up twice, once it said it couldn't activate but was fine on next journey after turning the car and its computer programs "off 'n' on agen", I suggested that it might just have been a leaf on the front of the rad grille. Then went my wife was following slow traffic through town panic braking by the car for no reason but my wife saw a plastic bag blowing in the breeze. Other times it just acting like the most cautious and nervous driver and not reading the traffic in front of it. Of course they've improved these systems by 2024. 😆 Thank gawd her car doesn't have lane "assist" or electronic handbrake with "Hold Assist", automatic lights and automatic wipers that really are eccentric. Heard the one about the Tesla stopping because of a bridge shadow cast on the road, I'm sure it's not true as Elon wouldn't let such things pass by testing.

As the 1.2 TSI has been mentioned the following is from the Owner's Manual (front title cover in error shows "Operating Instructions") for my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3, it normally shows about 93=96c when we've checked and on a couple of blow-out runs I done I've seen IIRC about 102-4c but I was going at a lot higher speed that usual.